Forgotten in its old age

by Aditya

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21

A couple other tips: Bounce flash, and don't use red-eye reduction mode for your flash Don't be predictable with when you take the shot. Some folks have a special talent for blinking at the wrong time, so don't let them know when the shot is happening Try to avoid having a bunch of other folks taking pictures at the same time. All those other flashes will ...


15

The trick I've heard is: have everyone close their eyes, and then open them on your command (and you then immediately take the photo). E.g., "Close your eyes.... now open them on 2. 1... 2... 3 [click]". Caveat is that I haven't actually tried this, but it makes a lot of sense to me.


14

These are Photoshopped. Each actor is photographed separately or in small groups as appropriate. Then each actor is cut out of their original image and placed in an empty background (either photographed or computer generated). You can see in some cases that the angle at which the subjects' feet meet the ground isn't quite right (take a look at Christina ...


14

There's a difference in "doing it as a wedding present" (for friends/family) and "doing it return for money". The "must have"s stay the same, but I would expect a professional to cover most of the "should have"s too. Having the right equipment There are three main groups of kit, the "must", the "should" and the "nice to": Must have Camera Lens ...


13

Academic research has been done on this, and it even won an Ig Nobel Prize! Piers then figured out how many shots I'd need to be 99% certain of getting a good one. He found that photographing thirty people in bad light would need about thirty shots. Once there's around fifty people, even in good light, you can kiss your hopes of an unspoilt photo ...


13

The photo in question could have been taken with (judging from the length of the various blurs) a 2 second or so exposure. Depending on the light this can be done without a ND (neutral density) filter, but a 2 to 4 stop filter might be needed if the ambient light was too high for an appropriate ISO/Aperture/Shutter speed combination. The problem, as you ...


12

Some people are very good at "TTL blinking" -- they blink when they see TTL metering preflash, and make that just in time to ruin the shot then the flash fires for real. You can prevent that by pre-metering flash exposure. On Canon DSLRs it's done via Flash Exposure Lock (FEL), which is another function of AE lock button.


11

I'll base my suggestions on a budget limit. If you want to take more photo's inside of the house, the kit lens might be a bit to slow. I myself experience this and I've found that the AF-S 35mm 1.8f/1.4f is a very good way to avoid using a flash. The popup flash is not bad, but the results are very flashy, another way to solve this, is to diffuse the light, ...


11

If I were in your position I would have all of that plus a written agreement stating that the couple understand that you are not a professional wedding photographer, you are doing this as a favour (and in the process saving them hundreds of dollars), and thus they cannot complain (or sue you) if the results are in any way not as good as they are expecting. ...


9

Make sure the couple's expectations are realistic. We asked a friend to photograph our wedding as a gift, and were delighted with the result, because we had very low expectations (mostly because I'm an amateur myself, and know how hard it is to get the perfect shot every time). Our friend did a great job, and we got several pro-quality pictures. But not ...


8

According to the photographer himself: No ND filter Tripod and long shutter speed, something like f8, 2s, ISO 100... Contrast adjustment is the only post processing All we had to do was to ask the photographer :) Thanks to @Unapiedra and @dpollit for figuring out the photographer's identity and twitter account


7

For me, I have reflectors which can be positioned (sometimes with help) so as to fill in the light on the subjects. There are some reasonable 5-in-1 options out there, I have a 43" version of one of them and it works very well, folding up to a pretty small package and giving lots of options for cooling or warming the light as needed. If you don't have ...


7

Triangles A classic approach is to arrange people so their faces form triangles. This is aesthetically pleasing. Example by "Harriet Bayliss Photography another Example by ".eti" Sub-Groups A technique which is useful when you have lots ( > 4 or so) of people is to arrange them in subgroups, such that each sub-group works on its own, and arrange the ...


7

Here's a couple of suggestions: Classic family or work group portrait: Seat a person or a couple and have the rest stand behind and to the sides. The person or couple sitting down will typically be determined by seniority, but other criteria might create interesting dynamics too, so don't just blindly go by the numbers. Another classic, especially with ...


7

As it's practically a once in a lifetime situation you might want to consider hiring a professional photographer. If nothing else it should eliminate the stress. The other thing to do is PRACTICE. Practice, practice, practice. This is one of the things that separates professionals from hobbyists. Take the camera with you everywhere and take a shot of ...


5

Fill in flash is my preferred solution to this problem, as it allows me to shoot unencumbered holding onto extra bits of kit. Reflectors are great for portraits / couples, but I find them fiddly for larger groups, and when you need to move around. As John mentions, direct flash can be harsh, but a ringflash (or ringflash adaptor) makes the ideal fill in ...


5

I would talk to the couple about expectations - it being your first time you're bound to miss a few key shots, stuff up a few other ones etc, so if they really want all the key moments caught, getting a professional who is experienced is the only way to do it. find someone to be your partner for the day. They don't have to be a photographer, but someone ...


5

Patience Camera Lots of Memory Sense of humor Napkins/tissues/paper towels for cleaning up faces (depending on ages of subjects) Brush/comb and maybe detangling solution Patience


4

I have the 35mm 1.8 and its a great little lens - I have used it for portraits until quite recently when I bought a 2nd hand 35mm-70mm 2.8, this now lives on my camera for portrait work. The 55mm-200mm is a good option for the range work


4

All flashes cause people to blink. Because many TTL systems today use a preflash, manual flash is a great way to avoid blinkers that sync up with the preflash-mainflash delay. And to add to other techniques people have posted to get it in one shot, shoot several shots in burst and blending is a very seamless and easy way to get an immaculate result.


4

Without seeing the image that you speak of, I would guess that at least part of your problem is that you simply did not have enough light output to achieve a greater depth of field, and thus not all subjects were in focus. It is also possible that the corners or edges of your 18-200mm lens are softer then the center, and the subjects at 22mm were either ...


4

When a large group sits on a straight line the subject distance from the center position to the sides varies by more than the distance from the first row to the last row. If they are standing in a rounded fashion, the distance is more uniform. Say, the group is taking a space of 2m depth and 12m wide - the distances will look like this: The worst case is ...


4

It's because the photographer isn't giving them any helpful feedback, and based on their experience with photography, they think they need to adjust in a certain way to fit the frame, or in this case to make sure people in the back are visible. Of course, the subjects are in totally the wrong position to do this in a useful way except by luck, but it ...


3

Bring a tripod Use a wide angle prime lens or wide angle zoom lens which is not soft or distorted at the extremes. A normal prime less would be acceptable if you are able to fit your subject on the frame. Calculate the aperture that you need to use so that the depth of field can cover all the rows of people. If shutter speed is lower, then use the tripod. ...


3

You may be reaching the limits of your equipment. A 18-200mm lens is not a lens known for edge sharpness at that focal length. I would use a prime lens, probably a 35 mm lens for edge sharpness. Wider lenses are usually less sharp in the corners. On a cropped-frame camera, you will still need to back up quite a bit. You will need a great deal of light to ...


3

A lot depends on the number of people and how formal/informal you want the photos to be. If everyone is the same size, you end up with a straight row of heads, and nothing is les pleasing than that, so differing heights can work well. Unless the tallest or shortest adults are sensitive about their height, I don't think putting the shorter ones on stools to ...


3

Lighting - as others have mentioned, lighting is going to be the key to successfully capturing everyone's facial expressions, depth, etc. I prefer family shots outside about an hour before sunset and/or dinner. Younger children will be a little less energetic, and dinner provides a good incentive for everyone. Indoors is fine too, especially if there is ...


3

Generally the subject is the focus, but it really depends on your creative vision as to how you balance the background and the subject in frame. How blurry the background should be, how wide the frame should be beyond the subjects and where in the frame the subjects should be are all artistic choices that don't have a "right" answer. Close up shots focus ...


2

I will add to that: An assistant who can corale people (My wife's family has easily 110 just including the first cousins, so this is necessary for me) A stool to stand on to get everyone in (again, 110 people) A wide lens Keys or jingly/flashy objects to get kids to look at you when everyone else is More patience



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