Alley in Pisa, Italy

by Lars Kotthoff

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1

From my own experience, I can make the following recommendations. You should practice handling your tripod and camera in dark conditions. This will help you to set up the camera and tripod quickly or to change camera settings when your hands are slowly going numb in the ice cold conditions. The problem here is that when handeling the camera, you need to ...


11

Three things: Film is relatively lenient, and exposure variations are handled in the printing. The lens has a relatively small fixed aperture and focus is set at a reasonable distance to get a lot of depth of field. Finally, prints from these things are usually 4×6, and not subjected to a high degree of scrutiny — we basically expect them to be relatively ...


6

This is the difference between CDAF (contrast detection) with integrated PDAF hybrid pixels vs full PDAF(phase detection). When using live view, the camera's imaging sensor is exposed and it tries to focus by using a combination of hunting for focus and checking the image contrast mixed with some hybrid pixels that contain limited phase detect focus ...


1

About the digital processing part, you should avoid using the general purpose sharpening methods, like unsharp mask as these methods will only increase the local contrast making details better visible but you won't get details back that have become invisible. It is better to use methods that are based on actually reversing the blurring due to imperfect ...


3

Benjamin, I want to encourage you to consider something different than pursuing only sharpness. That is continue with the different techniques already discussed, focus stacking, super resolution, etc. However, add to your tool belt two sets of other tools. I say this because of your statement "I'm getting great shots.. but I want to capture all the fine ...


1

You could also consider trying using a wide aperture, (resulting in a narrow depth of field), and then focus stacking or several different exposures and exposure stacking possibly both - some software options can be found here. While focus stacking is normally used for macro photography it is not restricted to such use and can be very rewarding and should ...


2

You say "I have one small focus point, but if I am shooting the entire skyline, wouldn't it throw the rest out of focus? Or should I change to Manual Focus?" This suggests to me that you have a basic misconception about how focus works, and that understanding that better will help with the whole problem. No matter how it's done, a camera lens can only ...


0

In a landscape or a shot of a city skyline, most of the scene will be at "infinity" for the purpose of focusing your lens. With a 50 mm lens, for example, it doesn't matter whether a rooftop is 30 meters, 300 meters, or 3 km away, the focus is all the same. The same applies to a tree 30 meters away or a ridgeline 3 miles away. It's all optically at ...


3

Use the delayed shutter release (or a remote) will reduce any shake from touching the camera (which can still affect a camera on a tripod) and the mirror lockup which moves the mirror out of the way early again reducing any vibrations caused by the internal mirror moving during the shot. This may help along with the other advice about finding the sweet spot ...


0

In general, if you have foreground elements, the best point to focus is about 1/3 of the way between the closest thing that you need to be sharp and the furthest thing you need to be sharp (or the hyperfocal distance). I.e. the drop off in sharpness due to depth of field is asymmetrical and tends to drop off faster on the near side of the point of ...


8

I agree with the comments about aperture, but also don't forget about mirror lockup and using a remote release (or the timer function) for the exposure.


24

It sounds like you're doing almost everything right, but there's one detail that caught my attention: Aperture highest the lens offers. I'm assuming that this means that you are stopping the lens all the way down. You shouldn't do that, because the small aperture results in a less sharp image overall due to diffraction. See What is a "diffraction ...


2

I would use the 50mm, stop down the aperture to f/4 or 5.6, aim for iso 200 and under a second exposure. I would also underexpose by a stop or two. I would tweak the contrast and sharpness in post, but you could try doing a custom picture style by adjusting the picture style contrast and sharpness settings. If you have a flash maybe consider adding some side ...


0

AJ Henderson> You could always send the lens in for a cleaning, but there is no guarantee that would fix it I'd vote for a visit to a repair shop, a "CLA" might be the right choice, or not.


3

The moon is way, way farther away than the hyperfocal distance of your lens. This means that if you focus at the hyperfocal distance, everything between half that distance and infinity should be in focus. If you just focused at infinity, the moon should be in focus, because it's really far away. However, although the moon is in focus, your optics are not ...


1

I suspect this may be a case of pushing the equipment a little bit too far - assuming you've got the Q7 with the larger sensor (things get even more extreme for the original smaller sensored Q), you're looking at an 35mm equivalent focal length of 200 x 4.7 = 940mm, which is a pretty long lens. From what I can find on the web, the Q has "only" 4x zoom when ...


0

Are you looking at your close-up portraits and your group portraits at the same magnification? Or are you magnifying your group portraits more to judge focus? The higher your magnification, the more "grain" you'll see, because your pixels will be getting bigger and bigger. There is nothing wrong with your lens or camera, and I highly doubt a 6D is ...


1

You'll notice that after 10ft on the focus scale there is an 8 on its side. That's the symbol for infinity, the lens is designed to focus that far, if yours doesn't it may be damaged.



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