Lunch atop a (Springfield) skyscraper

Lunch atop a (Springfield) skyscraper
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I have a D3300 that I use for bird photography paired with an old Nikon 300mm 4.5AIs this lens forces me to shoot in all manual mode but once you learn the camera this is no big deal. Your milage may vary but ill discuss some of the settings I use and provide some sample images I shot. I shoot a lot of my birds on the beach so sunlight is never an issue ...


Although cameras often have diopter correction, your problem may be due to the astigmatism issue, for which there is no simple adjustment. However, if the viewfinder eye-lens is removable, a custom lens can be ground to correct for your astigmatism. Another possibility is to have such a lens made to overlay a non-removable eye-lens, but you would probably ...


I believe adjusting your camera's diopter to match with your eye power will solve this issue. It is very important to set the diopter prior to take any photos. You can find more information here


The thin lens equation is 1/f = 1/do + 1/di, where f = focal length di = image distance = distance from lens to sensor do = object distance = distance from lens to subject. The focal length of a lens is defined by the thin lens equation, and it can be interpreted as a measure of the inverse strength of the lens. If you make a lens's optical surfaces more ...


The specific answer to the core of your Title Question, "the term for the distance", is: Infinity. Infinity is the (imagined) subject distance in front of the optical center of the lens that corresponds to an in-focus image on the sensor when it is spaced behind the lens at the nominal focal length. The engraved "focal length" which appears somewhere on ...


Focal length is the distance between the lens and the sensor when the subject is in focus, not the distance to the subject. The term for the distance to the subject in focus is the focus distance. The zone which is in focus either side (front and back) of the subject is the depth of field. This varies with the aperture - depth of field increases as the ...


Capture 1 maybe what you need!


You need to disable exposure simulation. The EOS M doesn't have a menu option for this but it is disabled with an ETTL flash or ETTL trigger in the hotshoe. (actually any Canon "dedicated" flash will also communicate with the camera and disable Exp Sim) You could also install Magic Lantern as it includes a menu option to disable Exp Sim.


Depth of Field: We adjust focus to a specific distance to obtain a sharp image. Practical experience reveals that objects before and after the distance focused upon, reproduce acceptably sharp. This zone of acceptable focus is what we call depth-of-field (DOF). What determines if an image is acceptable as to sharpness? The lens projects an image of the ...


"Focus Area" as you call it can also be called the Depth of Field. f/1.8 will always give a very narrow depth of field and would not be desirable for large groups of people. From 10 feet away only an area 1.68 feet would be in focus when using a 35mm lens on a crop camera body. Depth of Field calculations can be complex, and will always vary with the ...


As pointed by StephenG, you cannot always in a single shot focus on multiple different points, especially if they are at significantly different distances from the camera. You can adjust depth of field (with the associated drawbacks to maintain exposure), but this has its limits. What you can do, however, is take multiple pictures of the same scene, with ...


You cannot choose multiple points to have in focus at the same time in a shot. You can let the camera choose which one of several points it will use as a focus point in the shot, but the camera will not make any attempt to get all the points in focus - just one. You have limited control over how much of a scene around a selected single focus point will be ...


The target is under illuminated and underexposed. If the jpeg was generated in-camera the camera probably applied fairly aggressive noise reduction to the image. This will reduce the acutance of the image. If you haven't already, put the camera on a stable platform, such as a tripod. Use base ISO and expose for as long as necessary to properly expose the ...


The focus looks nearly if not completely spot-on on my monitor, though try leveling the focus chart (you can see it's slightly tilted, which will throw off your measurements). You are more likely to be seeing the effect of spherical aberration in the lens, which manifests as a "glow" even on in-focus parts of the image. That this is common in all fast ...

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