by Bart Arondson

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I tried this experiment: Stand in one place Turn my iso as low as it will go (200) Set my aperture as wide as possible (f/3.5) Take a picture Step my aperture one smaller, change shutter speed to compensate. Repeat 5 and 6 until I hit the smalles aperture (f/22, in my case) Turn my ISO to 11 as high as it will go (1600 in my case) Work my way back down the ...


From the comments, it seems like this is your problem — you're probably focusing past infinity. See Why do some lenses focus past infinity? Or, if you're not turning the ring all the way and instead relying on the marking, it may just be that the marking isn't precise enough. Try the suggestions at Where to focus when shooting landscapes? instead.


Neither other answer has addressed this if you're shooting in RAW: the image on the LCD screen on your camera has sharpening applied (by default, but it can be changed) so that even if you zoom in until you see the pixels of the image on your LCD, the image will look sharper than the raw will on your computer. This is so you can apply sharpening manually ...


In the back (LCD) the image looks as sharp as tack. You're looking at a 12 megapixel image on a 0.23 megapixel screen, so you're not seeing much detail in the image. When you view the image on a larger screen, or when you print it, you're seeing more pixels and can more easily see that the image is blurry. To check focus using the camera's screen, use ...


Your LCD sreen wil never have the resolution of your computer screen. The pixel compression is much more compact so an image will look very sharp on the LCD even when it has slight blur and camera shake. Never rely on your LCD screen to decide to keep or delete a photo. You won't know what you are getting until you put that guy up on a proper monitor.


What you want to do is to focus the lens at its "hyperfocal distance" for the selected aperture. The hyperfocal distance is the focus distance which places the furthest edge of the depth of field at infinity. (Depth of field is the range of distances which appear sharp in a picture). A loose rule of thumb is to use a small aperture and focus 1/3 the way ...


Perhaps you are trying to focus on something with very little contrast or you are trying to focus on something too close.


In general, here are a few things that help in your situation. I'm not sure which features are available for the Samsung S1050, but if you search your User Manual for the italicized terms below, you should be able to determine which features your camera offers. Use a tripod to eliminate camera shake and allow slower shutter speeds. Focus manually if the ...


I suppose there's a simple way. You could bring a measuring tape or a long ruler down with you underwater. Hold the ruler out in front of the camera and observe at what distance does the markings of the ruler become clear. That should give you a fairly accurate measurement of the focusing distance in water.

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