Before the rush

Before the rush
by evan-pak

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1

So I asked a Phottix rep same question and here is his answer: You have to set the flash on TTL, mounted on an Odin 2 receiver, and from there you can set the flash intensity on both TTL and Manual on the Odin 2 transmitter. I tested it out and it indeed is working (based on the images taken, not on the flash LCD)


0

There are warming and cooling filters that can be mounted atop the lens. The warming series is 81A – 81B – 81C – 81D. These are pale salmon, 81D being the strongest. All require you to increase exposure 1/3 stop. Alternately, you can warm up the flash with gel filters. Gels are likely your best bet as they are available from theatrical supply houses as they ...


3

Put a gel filter over your flash. Golden or orange (especially the CTO) will be best. These filters are available from various manufacturers and holders are also available,if you desire one. There is a product from Rosco that includes variety of pre-cut filters for this purpose that includes various effect colors, but also balancing ones. It is called The ...


2

I see that a complete set should include a key, a fill, a hair and a background light. What a complete set includes is very subjective and depends a lot on the desired look. Given that this is your first set, I would shy away from buying that many units. Start with one or two and add them as necessary. You didn't buy the "complete" set of lenses for your ...


0

The main or key is set high to simulate afternoon sun. The fill is subordinate and best placed at lens height near the camera. You are filling shadows as seen from the camera's viewpoint. If main and fill are equal as to output, measure main to subject distance and multiply by 1.4. This computes fill distance that causes the fill to be subordinate by 1 f-...


0

The LumoPro LP180 is a "dumb" manual-only single-pin flash. It has no built-in radio receiver, and no way to control its power remotely, so all an Odin can do is trigger it. The newer LumoPro LP180R, however, is still a single-pin manual-only flash, but has a built-in Odin/Strato receiver, and through the receiver, can have its power and zoom settings ...


1

Flash exposure is different than the "three components of continuous ambient'. Flash exposure is Not affected by shutter speed, but a more huge difference, flash exposure is greatly affected by the distance between flash and subject (flash and local lights fall off fast with distance, but sunlight does not, not here on Earth). The Yongnuo 560 III manual ...


2

Settings: D3200, Sigma 70mm Macro. YN560 III & YN560 IV, triggered by the 560-TX. F13, 1/200s and ISO100. I am guessing 1/32 on both units. It depends on what/how you're shooting. But I think you're being wildly optimistic on how much light your $70 flashes can put out if you're shooting portraits. Although, if you were going for a black ...


2

Light from a flash (or any point source lamp) falls off rapidly with distance. If we double the distance between subject and flash, the light playing on the subject decreases to ΒΌ its original value. Thus nobody can answer your question without knowing the distances involve and whether one or two flashes are to be used. If two, what distances etc. Guide ...


2

Not always. I think the C/N notation is as much of a seller convention to avoid returns :) as a Yongnuo production one. Or, it could be because Yongnuo typically reverse-engineers some bit of Canon gear, so the Canon version is released long before a Nikon version is. So for a long period of time, there may only be the single Canon version (e.g., the YN-...


2

The Canon Version of the YN685 was announced in the Summer of 2015 and began shipping in September of 2015. The Nikon version of the YN685 was not announced until March 23, 2016 and didn't hit the streets until May 2016. That may have something to do with the Canon version not having a "C" in the name as listed at most online retailers. The official model ...


6

Is E-TTL Universal? No, it's the opposite of universal. It is proprietary and specific to Canon. Each brand has their own specific flash/camera communication system. The only thing that's universal is the sync (fire) signal [which is a short between ground (rails) and the center contact of the hotshoe], because that's part of the ISO standards for flash ...


5

No. E-TTL is a proprietary part of Canon's EOS flash system. Some third parties (e.g. Metz, Sigma, Yongnuo) have reverse engineered it, but to my knowledge it is not licensed to anyone else. Most of the third-party flashes are of the hotshoe type, but a few (again e.g. Yongnuo) offer AC-powered studio strobes as well. It looks like Profoto is included in ...


17

It stands for "Prontor-Compur connection": "Prontor" has its origins in the Italian word "pronto", meaning ready (and was a leaf shutter made by Alfred Gauthier). "Compur" is derived from the word "compound" (the "Compound" was a long-lived series of leaf shutters made by Friedrich Deckel).


0

Shutter curtains/blades move at a constant velocity. Doesn't matter how fast your shutter speed gets, the time it takes the exposure to happen never gets faster than about half your sync speed. That is, about 1/500th on a 1/250 sync speed shutter. Past sync speed you're just making the gap between curtains smaller. 1/8000th on a 1/250th sync speed camera ...


0

You also need to consider the trigger voltage supplied by the flash and the voltage the camera's hot shoe can tolerate without being damaged. Older flashes often have higher voltages than newer DSLRs can tolerate. When the camera's shutter is released by pressing the shutter button all the way down the shutter begins to open. When the first shutter curtain ...


0

You also asked if there is a next best cheap solution. The Nikon SB400 is cheap and I had one but I don't think it's a very good flash to learn with due to its inability to swivel and I regret its purchase. The ability to swivel a flash is important. A quick search showed up the Sigma EF-610 which is low cost and available for Nikon (with i-TTL metering). ...


0

In short, this mode tends to assume you do not want to take flash photos, but use the flash only as fill, light such as when there is strong backlight and you need to see a darker subject in front. The mode is "intelligent" in the sense that it does just use simple arithmetic to determine what settings to use and whether to use flash, but tries to analyze ...


3

Assuming the flash is normally automatic TTL mode, so that its light is metered to take care of itself. Then TTL is metered so that the TTL flash power level is adjusted to provide a correct flash exposure. We don't know which camera we are discussing (brand, and a compact or DSLR, etc?), but speaking of camera more sophisticated than the minimum, then ...


29

Your camera will have anticipated the extra light provided from the flash, and adjusted the exposure to compensate. Because this extra light has been blocked out. The exposure is now wrong. Additionally, when the flash fires, your camera is likely to use a different white balance setting to accommodate the difference between the flash light and the other ...


1

No. You can't control YN-560IVs with an SB-700 the same way an SB-700 can control another SB-700 using Nikon's Creative Lighting System (CLS). Only the Yongnuo flashes with EX in the name have this capability. CLS is a proprietary optical (light pulse based) signaling protocol that requires a CLS receiver in remote flashes. The YN-560 series of Yongnuo ...


4

First step: Practice macro without the ring and get used to the extension tubes. Second step: Your camera will not be aware there is a flash fired, so it does not calculate this into the exposure settings. You have a couple of options (and probably more): You need to correct the metering manually, either by using the camera in manual mode (M) and do it ...


2

You can set Exposure Compensation directly on the speedlight. Second button from the left. Note that any EC set on camera is in addition to any EC set on the speedlight. Camera +1, speedlight -1 result is 0 EC.


1

The essence of your problem is the high differential in brightness between the subject and the background. And you are forcing yourself to use a tight aperture to get the depth of field you want. Using a higher focal length lens and backing farther away from the subject will help with depth of field, but I know of only three solutions to the light ...


2

Do you want the short answer or the long one? Some viable options or the best one? The long one. I am worried here. There are toooooo many basic points on the question. So I am preparing a check list of points you must further investigate. I will just write a basic tip on each point. No bokeh: What aperture gives bokeh and which not? Do not use a wide ...


0

You could try positioning the model near to the entrance of the tunnel in the sunlight and then use a long lens to fore-shorten the tunnel so the far end looks large behind them. Also, consider what other light sources do you have available. Car headlights?


6

(Some people might hang me for this but) You could take two shots and photoshop/merge them together afterwards. To do this you would have to take two shots from the exact same spot, maybe use a tripod. Take the first shot with the right settings to get your desired exposure for the outisde bit of the tunnel. For the second shot with the model use either ...


1

If you don't want bokeh, the first step is to find the aperture your lens produces sharp results for the model and the landscape in the distance. Something between 8 and 11 might be OK. Depending on the light situation inside the tunnel you probably won't need full power output of your flash or none at all. This is something that really depends on the ...


0

If you have too wide a range of EVs, and if you didn't have a set of flashes, I suggest you: Make an HDR at 7 fps (or more) by using a tripod with a constant aperture value by using the bracketing option.Then you will be able to remove ghosts by using "photomatix pro" or another software. With a tripod also, take a separate picture of the model in the ...


0

Check to see if your Nikon uses the same flash metering algorithm as Canon - when set tot aperture-priority but with the flash on, the camera will sett he aperture & shutter speed to correctly expose the background (the outside of the tunnel in your case, but it might get confused if too much of the dark tunnel fills the scene) and uses the flash to ...


6

Sounds like you want the outside of the tunnel to be properly exposed and not blown out. Meter for that and with your camera set to full manual mode use the settings suggested by the light meter. Take some test shots to fine tune the exposure. You are limited with an on camera flash but try adjusting the power of the flash with the flash compensation ...



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