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1

Unfortunately, there is not. If you can invest in a flash meter, you could test the actual output power which would be valuable information, but if you are trying to save by getting a used flash, I'd hazard getting an external flash meter is probably out of the question. The relevant information has to do with "thermal shock cycles" and has as much to do ...


2

You're right to a degree. If you consider only one of the cells of the grid, there is less source light available to be projected onto the target — the target "sees" a much smaller part of the light source through each of the cells if the cell diameter is smaller. At the same time, though, you are increasing the number of cells visible at the centre of the ...


3

Yes, with the black straws, it is going to absorb most of the light that does not go directly through the straws. The smaller in diameter the straws, the more direct the light has to be traveling to get through and the more light will be absorbed. If the straws were white, it would actually get brighter as the reflected light would be more focused, but it ...


1

This would seem to be a most *UN*likely result if done "live" Bacground over foreground and no apparent mixing even at boundaries. This very strongly suggests it was done in post processing. Also, the smooth radius change curve does not feel likely to be "natural". When swept in large arc the arm not only changes length as it moves but also the rate ...


6

For this kind of a shot, it doesn't matter if the flash is first or second curtain because there is no direction to the movement. (ie, the phone could have started on the left or the right side and we'd have no idea of the difference). What does matter is that you have a dark environment so that only the light trail is normally exposing. You then take ...


1

This is how I think It could be done. 1. Set camera to bulb mode. So that the shutter stays open as long as the shutter button is pressed. 2. Set flash to fire either at the first / second curtain. 3. Press the shutter button when the people start to move the light source and release it once the movement is complete As you realize, I've not specified ...


3

You would be using a flash with the camera set for a longer exposure,the flash would freeze the woman's movement and the long exposure will allow for the light trail effect


0

I suspect you're firing in rear-curtain sync mode, which means the flash is fired at the end of the exposure. Switch your flash mode to "auto" and I bet you'll see the delay disappear.


1

You are using your flash on 'red eye removal' Icon: thunder+eye, put it on normal flash Icon: just the thunder.


2

Assuming different shades means the color of each photo varies, I would blame the auto white balance algorithm of the camera. The white balance decision is most likely being made at every shot, and then the answer seems to vary. If you can set the white balance to a setting on the camera that is static but is a reasonable match for your scene (like ...


1

Just to make sure we're clear. TTL flash doesn't adjust specifically because of or when you adjust your flashes. What happens is that when you go to take a photo, there are actually several flashes in rapid succession (so fast they look like 1). If you are using optical sync, there is a control flash to tell the flashes to all pre-flash and configure ...


7

Yes. This is an advantage of through-the-lens metering, as the effect of the flash is judged based the light that, well, actually comes through the lens. It doesn't need to know anything fancy about angles; it just measures the effect on exposure. (on modern systems, using a low-powered "preflash" to test, and calculating from that). This can be fooled by ...


1

While we don't deal with shopping questions on this site because they are too localized in time and needs, your questions are answered more generically by What to look for in a flash and What do I gain from moving to a full frame? As far as lenses for events go, your costs are a big factor, but for parties you'll want something that goes from fairly wide to ...


0

I think he's effectively over-simplified the situation a bit, probably intentionally... The slow-sync mode is enabled by Nikon in rear-curtain sync mode (Kelby is a Nikon shooter if I recall) which results in the camera metering for ambient light. That may result in a longer shutter speed, and so more of the ambient light is exposed to the camera before the ...


1

There is no reason that a rear (second curtain) flash should reveal more of the background than a front (first curtain) flash should. The second image you post looks much more like a higher ISO that didn't use a flash. You can see that the highlights on the face in the right come from behind the bar, not the on camera flash (which is where they come from ...


2

I'm pretty sure that Scott Kelby means slow sync in general as opposed to the normal flash modes, not first curtain vs. trailing curtain slow sync. From the context (see excerpt in google books), although he talks about the timing of the shutter, he really only contrasts to normal operation. I searched the rest of the book too, and he never talks about ...


1

The formula you found with ISO included is wrong. The correct formula is.... Guide Number= Distance x Aperture. or Distance = Guide Number / Aperture or Aperture = Guide Number / Distance As you would know, Guide Number is given for ISO 100 always. We will deal with other ISOs a little later. As a photographer, my first worry would be how far my flash ...



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