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by Gordon

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3

Given that everything's on manual, that you're firing the flash at full power (1/1), and that you think waiting one second between shots is sufficient, I'm going to take an educated guess and say that your problem is that you're not waiting for the flash to fully recycle before you take a shot and/or you've got the power level on the flash set too high. It ...


0

FWIW, Auto FP HSS is not about sync at all. The only point of HSS is that it eliminates sync concerns. HSS is a radically different deal. HSS becomes "continuous light" (for duration of shutter speed), same as daylight and incandescent are continuous light (meaning, there before and after the shutter duration - hardly any before or after, but the shutter has ...


0

The TTL groups are metered individually by the commander. The commander sets their power levels so that all groups are equal at the subject (regardless of their distances or their modifiers, etc). Normally one light is group A and one light is group B (to meter them individually). But both equal is flat light, and for best lighting results, we should set ...


0

You are speaking of the X speed setting following Bulb setting as you go to the end of the dial for very slow shutter speeds. This X setting means the normal X flash sync speed, specifically that this X shutter position setting will use whatever sync speed you have set in menu E1. This is mentioned in the manual at the E1 menu. If you see 1/250, then your ...


0

OP: There is more to how the camera works than you described. The exposure automation (for example, aperture preferred mode lets metering set the shutter speed and the Auto ISO value) is based on ambient (any metered camera settings are NOT about flash). NONE of this about flash. The TTL flash has to work into whatever ISO and aperture it discovers ...


2

You are using TTL, which means all flashes have to communicate with the camera and there has to be a preflash to determine the flash output. The process is something like this: preflash: let every flash fire at a certain power level meter the exposure during preflash and calculate if they should have more or les power during the actual exposure actual ...


0

Why Not just set the 600EX-RT as Master using OPTICAL and setting your 550EX of camera (or anywhere in optical range) as SLAVE. The 600EX-RT should trigger the 550ex.


2

You could use a fill light from a reflector or another strobe to illuminate the background a bit. Of course, that means additional setup time and expense. You could experiment with extending exposure, at least on the Canon, to reduce the brightness of the ring-light in comparison to the background (e.g. increase exposure time so that light keeps entering ...


0

If the internal flash is used as a Commander to control remote TTL flash(es), it HAS TO flash commands to the remote before the shutter opens. It is the Commander, it must Command (by flashing). It flashes commands (addressed to each enabled group), which are a request for a TTL preflash from each group. The remote (or remotes) answer in turn with a ...


1

Flash (manual or TTL) exposure varies with subject distance (and ISO and aperture too, but also subject distance). Twice the distance is exposure two stops down. So as you walk around the room shooting pictures, or you are chasing kids running around, then many cases are surely DIFFERENT situations, different distances, etc. With manual flash, you have to ...


2

In a wedding, with on-camera flash, bouncing off the ceiling, walking around taking pics of people dancing, etc. Does a TTL flash have advantages, and if so, what? The main advantage is speed. Given that event shooting is mostly about anticipating moments at the event, and the nature of events being that you usually only get one chance at capturing ...


1

Which flash helps? and in what areas does it help? I'm sure you're familiar with the difference between automatic exposure modes (e.g. Program) and manual mode on your camera. The difference between TTL and manual flash is similar. With TTL, the camera measures the exposure from the flash and the scene and adjusts the flash power to create a reasonable ...


1

I'm a little confused by your question. Wireless 2nd-curtain sync is not possible with Canon OEM gear; but is possible with Yongnuo flashes and radio triggers with a Canon body. If you use Yongnuo TTL/HSS-capable flashes and triggers, then you can do wireless 2nd-curtain sync. If you use Canon's RT or optical slaving gear, you can't.


0

Unless you're trying to achieve professional-quality lighting, yes. If you are considering any kind of external lighting keep in mind that no P&S is going to properly compensate for an external strobe, so any supplemental lighting would need to be constant or you'll have a lot of blown out photos and frustrated photo-takers. If you want people to use ...


1

I've done a few booths so far, with a fixed lighting system and some on-camera flashs, and I havent had it even once where the fixed lighting was actually used. The scenery of these images change so often that you should not worry about it, from single pictures to 6+ groups you will see everything and as the day passes (and probably the more booze is ...


3

Taking polaroids at wedding receptions is nice. There are some things that you should be aware of: There's no polaroid film available any more. You can get modern film from the impossible project, but it does not develop as quickly as the original polaroid film. Waiting a long time for a polaroid image kind of defeats the point of using that technology. ...


1

Sure, some sort of "proper" lighting setup will give you better results than on camera flash... but as your friend is wanting photos of people with funny accessories on a polaroid camera, I suspect that he's not after your traditional formal portraits. Keep it simple, go with the on-camera flash and concentrate on getting fun images which capture the guests ...


5

If they're TTL-capable flashes, they're brand specific. And they only come in Canon and Nikon flavors. The manual-only models are not brand-specific and will work on any ISO-compatible hotshoe. It's not a 100% reliable guide (e.g., the YN-500EX is an exception), but generally any model that ends in a 0 is manual-only and brand-agnostic; any model that ...


1

The black bar you are seeing is the curtain from your shutter. Your shutter speed (1/500) is faster than your camera's flash sync speed (1/200). To get rid of the black bars, you either need to enable "high speed sync" on your flash (if it has the feature), or choose a shutter speed of 1/200 or slower.


2

If you're purchasing a new manual hotshoe flash that you will, presumably, be using off-camera Strobist-style, I'd look at and for the following features: Power The guide number is (sometimes) a good guide for this, but make sure you know the ISO setting and zoom settings that were used to measure the guide number. For some third party units (e.g., ...


1

If this is like every other Canon camera, Av exposes for ambient, and uses the Flash for fill. P assumes the foreground is the subject, so it exposes for that. For your Av photo, the camera found the subject very dark, so pushed to get as much light as possible, However, the fill flash was close to the subject, so it is over exposed. You can see that the ...


4

You see the curtain of your camera: nice, no? If you want to avoid that with mark III , use a shutter speed lower than 1/200s You could use high flash speed sync, but I am quite sure that your flash can't use that, so with this flash, your only solution will be under 1/200s or use a ND filter to have less light entering your lens Check this tutorial on ...


1

Found out the problem on my own. All is well now. I have 2 other YN 600's and the FEC w/bounce worked fine on those other two. So I kept tinkering with my 3rd/new flash until I got it working properly. Certainly a case of "user error" here. Here's the story: I have an event coming up soon where I expect to be using bounce flash "on the move." It's been a ...


2

You're probably using a shutter speed faster than your cameras maximum sync speed. check your camera's specs, and use a slower shutter speed. If you're using off camera flash with inexpensive third party triggers, you almost undoubtedly should be running both camera and flash in manual mode as well. run it manual, (typically) always keep shutter speed ...


0

If you select the last ETTL setting (press mode button 6 times after switching the flash on) and then just press the + button twice, it enables high speed flash. You can make sure its on by checking your flash settings in the menu of your camera.



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