Sunset in Kruger

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11

You're shooting with a shutter speed faster than your sync speed (most likely 1/200 or 1/250). Your camera's shutter consists of two curtains -- the first one opens to begin the exposure, and the second follows it -- closing to end the exposure. At speeds slower than your camera's sync speed, these two curtain movements allow at least a tiny fraction of ...


10

In principle, your rationale is correct. However, there is no usable period during which an ordinary single flash is emitting at constant power. The power of a typical on-camera flash quickly increases from zero to its maximum value in about 0.1 ms (i.e. 1/10 000th s). Then it exponentially decreases with a half-life of roughly 1 ms; i.e., it decreases to ...


5

Yes. What you're envisioning is something that's actually used by some TTL-capable radio triggers to allow faster shutter speeds with manual flashes and studio strobes: it's called tail-sync (aka "HyperSync", "Supersync", etc.). The problem, as Loong has pointed out, is that the light/power output of the flash pulse is not even and constant during the ...


5

No. Don't try gels. Your camera should have a custom white balance setting. Something like this: You need a 3 step process for this: 1) Take a photo of a white object using either Sun White Balance or Flash White balance (I prefer using sun). You can use a sheet of paper but as they can vary in color you probably need a gray card ...


3

TL;DR: Yeah, you guessed right. You can't get HSS or TTL cross-brand. Flash hotshoe protocols are mostly brand-specific TTL and HSS are hotshoe protocol-specific. That is, you need a Canon camera to do HSS with Canon HSS-compatible flashes; and with a Sony A-7, you'd need a Sony HSS-compatible flash (i.e., probably a Sony HLV speedlight, or 3rd-party ...


3

I can confirm that if you use a Yongnuo YN-622C, you will be able to trigger your canon speedlights. The setup that I have is 1 Profoto TTL Air remote, 2 Yongnuo YN-622C, 1 430EX II flash, 1 B1. One of the Yongnuo goes between the camera and the Profoto Air remote. The other on the speedlight.


3

You exceeded your camera body's sync speed. The shutter speed in focal plane cameras, like most dSLRs, is determined by the gap between the 1st and 2nd shutter curtains. The bigger the gap, the longer the shutter speed. At a certain shutter speed (known as the maximum sync speed of the camera), that gap is only barely large enough to uncover the sensor all ...


2

1/400 second definitely exceeds your cameras maximum sync speed, which causes the black band. Try 1/160, or maybe 1/200 second. But in some other cases, we might not have exceeded the cameras maximum sync speed, but cheap radio triggers are notorious for causing a delay, and not being able to keep up with that max sync speed. Just lower your shutter ...


1

Found out the problem on my own. All is well now. I have 2 other YN 600's and the FEC w/bounce worked fine on those other two. So I kept tinkering with my 3rd/new flash until I got it working properly. Certainly a case of "user error" here.


1

You're probably using a shutter speed faster than your cameras maximum sync speed. check your camera's specs, and use a slower shutter speed. If you're using off camera flash with inexpensive third party triggers, you almost undoubtedly should be running both camera and flash in manual mode as well. run it manual, (typically) always keep shutter speed ...


1

You can use the guide number system (see How can I calculate the effect of non-TTL flash on exposure?), possibly in combination with your camera's meter or a separate incident flash meter. But if you have several lights, modifiers, and are trying different poses and positions, trial and error is probably actually easier and faster. As you practice, it'll ...


1

I'm not aware of any, and even though I'm not an electrical engineer, I think I can state with reasonable confidence that there aren't any, and won't be in the near future. That's because flashes work by storing energy in a capacitor, and it's inherent that the energy released from a capacitor starts out with a high voltage and tapers off, just as you see in ...


1

I think a key complication with doing it this way round is going to be getting the flash to be able to synchronise with the shutter at that level of precision. Eg, what happens if there is a long sync cord, or a radio trigger? They may cause different amounts of lag (I realise that the lag with a longer sync cable will be negligible and may not make a ...


1

I have no experience with the Nissin Di700, but the YN-622C triggers can communicate high speed sync, so it should work. However if this is your first/only flash, you might be better off returning the Di700 and getting a Di700A and the Nissin Air 1 Commander, so you'll have a built-in receiver, rather than using an add-on one. The Di700A is the same price ...


1

My Jessops 360 AFDN got stuck on a Nikon D90. I tried almost everything mentioned above, except taking it to an authorised dealer. In the end I disassembled the flash to get it off.



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