Forgotten in its old age

by Aditya

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5

The difference the diffuser shape makes is mainly the shape of the catchlights. I.e - shoot a person with a square diffuser, you'll get a square catchlight in their eye. Shoot them with something round, the catchlight will be round, which arguably may look more natural. On the other hand, square catchlight can look like a window, which is also neat. ...


3

If I read all your facts correct (thinks you need and don´t need) there is no real difference for you and 320EX remote control feature is only one which interests you (maybe). So seems to be that you would be happy with this 320EX. BUT if you want do shoot off camera and/or with light modifiers (gels, softbox, … can reduce the effecive power significant) ...


2

Based on your description, I'd go with the 430EX II if the price difference is minimal. The main selling point of the 320EX is the video light, if you don't need the LED light on the front, the only reason to get it over the more powerful and capable 430EX II would be cost, but you indicated that the cost is pretty close where you were looking. The "remote ...


2

The point of a diffuser is to create light that comes from a larger area and is more spread out than what the bare flash produces. Theoretically, its shape influences the distribution of the light as well, but due to the spreading-out effect, light basically goes from every point on the diffuser's surface in all directions. Which means that in practice, a ...


2

Basically, you're talking about two different types of optical slaving/triggering, and they tend to be incompatible with each other. The system that your Sony flash/camera uses to trigger the flash off-camera is a proprietary wireless TTL system. This involves multiple pre-flashes, because the camera is actually communicating most of the hotshoe/foot ...


2

Looking at an eBay auction description, your Kako 720sd specs out with a guide number of 28-40m (I'm assuming that's across the zoom range of 28-85mm), so chances are that this is a pretty decently-powered speedlight (e.g., in the neighborhood of 30m when zoomed to 35mm), in the range of most of the hotshoe flashes you're going to find. Going to a new ...


2

Compete with sunlight? Sure, easily, especially in shade. My 600EX-RT through a small soft box is still sufficient to compete with sunlight and give primary lighting from the flash if I want it to. The key is to a) be close enough and b) shoot fast enough. A flash is not sustained light, it is very intense light for a very short time. The longer your ...


2

Unlike a flash unit, these on-camera LED panels will typically stay lit, allowing you to compose your shot and adjust your camera's settings accordingly. You can buy LED lighting units such as these at many online retailers, such as Amazon or B&H Photo. There are many highly rated yet cost effective offerings at either of those links. Make sure to read ...


1

I have the exact same kit as you (T4i/650; 50mm 1.8, 18-55mm). I also have the 430EX II. I would purchase the 430 EX II as it gives you more capability and power. I primarily focus on family pictures and portraits for family and friends, and the 430 EX II with swivel head, etc., is perfect for my needs. I may upgrade to a more powerful flash in the future if ...


1

Just FYI, Strobist refers to David Hobby's Strobist blog, where most of us learned how to do off-camera flash. If you really want to use this flash off-camera, consider that optical slaving to your 650D's pop-up flash has some limitations. They may not come into play with food photography, but if you end up shooting outdoors on location in bright sunlight, ...


1

The primary difference in diffuser shapes is in the shape of any specular reflections in the image, for example the catchlights in the subjects eyes. Octagonal diffusers produce highlights which look more rounded and therefore more natural and less obtrusive. However, in some cases hard edged highlights are required for a certain look, you see this a lot ...



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