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7

I'd say that it's common enough, since low-depth-of-field portraits are fashionable. However, you have to distinguish between two situations: in a studio or other controlled situation where flash is the primary light, vs. outdoors where you are trying to overpower the sun. As the questions you've linked suggest, the studio situation is easy, but if you ...


4

I'd suggest lighting her with a flash that would mimic the way the ambient light looks. My idea - put a full/half CTO gel on the flash so it has the same color as the lights, use a softbox/umbrella (preferably a small softbox with a grid as it's quite focused) and place it on that side of her face that is lit by the christmass lights. You can now limit the ...


4

Whenever you add light you change the way your image will look. I could think of two things: You could try backlight. Some kind of halo effect, possibly placing a light behind her, this may allow you to lower your iso and maintain "some" contrast, but I cannot really say how far you can go You could try (possibly with a softbox or an umbrella if you have ...


2

Since you asked this question, Nikon has come out with the SB-500, which I have and I love it. Works with CLS, so you already have a trigger. It's very compact and also has a 3-LED video light, which is fairly unique and could come in very handy for video or other uses.


1

Now Pentax has 2 WR flashes both of the new 360 and 540 fgz versions (II) are weather sealed. But i did use my Sigma 610 DG Super in some rainy weather and i really have no fear to do it again. (Cover the hotshoe with playdoh.)


1

Because light tends to come from above us. You need proper diffusion to make it work well, but light coming from slightly above tends to look the most natural. This is also why strobes are setup slightly above eye level in studio environments as well. If the flash came from below, then it would cast odd shadows from the cheeks and nose and eye sockets, ...


1

Check the custom option "Release While Charging". Check the batteries (camera and/or flash) If the option is not checked, you will not be able to take a picture until the flash is ready. The flash can take some times to charge if the batteries are not fully recharged (both for the internal flash and the external flash). Check the manual at pages 81, 150 ...


1

Focus on an eye. Exposure: all of them! This is a staged event and a must-have shot. Figure out the general idea using a digital camera where you can see the result right away. Then start with those settings on the good camera. Shoot bursts of 3 on each shot, so you have 3 identical pictures with tiny differences in people's faces, to choose from. ...


1

Yes, flash usages and aperture are independent of each other. I shoot weddings and 90-95% of my flash usage is with wide open or near wide open apertures. What is confusing you is specifically the case of shooting outdoors where you want the flash to fill in with power equivalent to daylight. In that situation, the shorter your shutter speed, the less ...


1

Logically, if you're lowering the sensitivity of the sensor, you must increase the amount of light hitting it. I guess you can't switch to faster lens else you would have already done so and you've said it's impractical to take a longer exposure. On the other side of the equation, you can increase the ambient light or the brightness of the fairy lights if ...


1

The first question to ask yourself is what kind of triggering system do you plan to use? CLS All the Yongnuo flashes with "EX" in their name can be used as a CLS slave. Dumb optical (S1/S2/SU-4) If you want to use dumb optical triggering, then all the current Yongnuo flashes have S1 and S2 "dumb" optical slave modes in them. manual radio triggers If ...


1

Well it depends on how you wish for them to work in the first place. If you use your on camera flash to trigger them, then they will all work. If you use your existing flash with a cable, then you can use any additional ones as slaves, they will all work. If you use your existing flash on your camera, then this can work the same as the above. If you are ...


1

You can buy cheap flash triggers that will trigger a flashgun via a PC cable or hotshoe adaptor. They just look for a flash of light, then trigger the connected flash. May be enough for you if you're using the Speedlite in manual mode and the Fuji is only generating one flash (any pre-flashes for red-eye reduction, or ettl metering would need to be disabled) ...



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