It's a bird

by Vian Esterhuizen

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4

The goal of all of them is to fire a flash that's not on the camera. Let's take a look at what all this means radio trigger (e.g. PocketWizard) They talk to each other via radio, which means there's no flash firing just for communication purposes. You will definitely need a sender unit on the camera, because no camera (as of yet) has built in sender. ...


3

That's a very nice feature, in that if you find a particular mix of fill flash that you think looks natural, you can recreate it any time. But you'll have to use trial and error to get the ratio you're looking for, the meter won't let you set it as a target. If the ratio is higher than you want, you could lower the shutter speed a few stops to let in more ...


3

Sounds like you got a bad unit. I'd say return/exchange it. If it's not firing from the Pilot button when full charged with known good batteries, then it could be an issue with the capacitor or the flash tube, and that's pretty major. Yongnuo gear has a lot of happy customers, but if you go back through the history of their stuff, you'll find that copy ...


3

Flash exposure compensation (FEC) shifts the metered exposure value for the flash by the set number of stops. The power levels of the flash in manual mode are fractions of full output (1/1). So if the TTL metering determines a flash power level of eg. half full strength (1/2) and you have dialed in a FEC of -1, the resulting flash output is 1/4, -2 would ...


3

TTL is dependent on the focal point of your lens This is not the case. Some flashes have an automatic zoom, which automatically adjusts to the focal length of the lens. so if TTL flash is sitting on your camera they yes TTL has a meaning because the flash is in the same distance from the subject as the focal point of your lens No, not necessarily. ...


2

TTL employs a pre-flash to calculate the power requirement for the main flash. For that pre-flash it is irrelevant where the flash sits - if it is further away, less light reaches the target and the main flash is adjusted accordingly to output more power to obtain what "it" considers an appropriate exposure (taking into account any flash compensation as set ...


2

Most people use their camera on automatic, and if it's dark, the camera turns the flash on. the user is too inexperienced to know (or to consider) the fact that the subject is too far away for the flash to reach, and they'd be better off with no flash, a longer exposure, wider aperture and a steady hand. They also don't appreciate the noise and perhaps ...


2

Yes. :) Both are controls of the flash power, but FEC is relative (and only in TTL mode), while the power ratios are absolute (and only in M mode). FEC, like exposure compensation, is a relative adjustment from where the auto exposure system in the camera thinks the best exposure level is (i.e., it's relative to a shifting "0" on the scale, based upon ...


1

Well I don't know if that is what you want to achive or a result of a photo of yours you want to improve. I will only coment that for low key photos probably the shoot through umbrellas are not the best option becouse they spill a lot of light. I'm imagining the violin and the face photo, and I supose you want more contrast, the dark side of the face as ...


1

Just me, but I'd say, you're missing the skills and practice, not the tools. Your gear is a pretty good basic three-light setup (assuming you just didn't feel like listing the stands and swivels). You have umbrellas, and a 24" softbox, and while they might be a little small, they're still pretty decent-sized. The main thing you have to learn here is that ...


1

HSR isn't HSS. To quote from the PocketWizard PlusIII's website: HIGH SPEED RECEIVE Normally, the Plus III is capable of triggering lights or cameras at a sustained rate of up to 12 frames per second (FPS), a standard for PocketWizard radios. Set the Plus III to High Speed Receive Mode (HSR) and trigger at rates up to 14.5 FPS, beyond the ...


1

We were able to get it working by dropping the shutter speed to 1/2 second for all the slave cameras and 1/4 for the master camera. The strobes are at 1/1000. This worked perfectly and it seemed like whatever the variability of the camera's shutter speed was too much for 1/60, 1/30 or 1/15.


1

Are you triggering via USB or just pulling the images via USB? From the BreezeSys website: How accurately can the cameras be synchronized? For best results the cameras should be set to manual focus and triggered via the remote release sockets. The figures below are for guidance purposes only. Please see this page for more information. ...


1

TTL simply means that the camera tells the flash to send out a "preflash" burst of light at a known brightness level that the camera can meter, so it can have a sense of how to set the flash power for the actual shot. Distance, focal point--it still just gets metered. Where the flash is doesn't really matter--the metering itself is still done from the ...


1

On your other question, you mention SB910s and CLS, so I'm going to assume you mean using CLS's slave mode, vs. manual PocketWizard radio triggers (like the PlusX units); and not "dumb"/SU-4 mode, or the flex/mini TTL-capable PocketWizard triggers. The main advantages are range, reliability, and no line-of-sight requirements when used outdoors in bright ...


1

Most dSLRS use focal plane shutters with two curtains. The first curtain "opens" the shutter, and the second one "closes" it. The size of the gap between the two shutters determines the shutter speed. The smaller the gap, the faster your shutter speed. When you reach your maximum sync speed (usually around 1/200s, for most cameras), that's the fastest ...



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