Forgotten in its old age

by Aditya

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Are you sure that you want the "Color Intensifier" built in to the polarizer? Everything it does can be done better in software without spending $160 or more extra. I'd get the variable ND filter (8 stops is still a lot) plus a regular polarizer.


I believe that the easiest way to find out the filter size of a lens is to look at the lens cap. Pretty much the only information that you would find on the cap is who made it and the filter size that it fits. (Provided of course that it's the type of lens cap that attaches to the filter thread.) The lens cap from my Sigma 50-500 lens for example has this ...


There is always a specification. You will find it in three places: On the lens, either at the edge around the front optical element or on the side of the barrel. In the manual that came with your lens. On the web. Here is one on Sigma's site. Click Tech Specs to see the table where it says Filter-Size. There will be many numbers on the lens itself but ...


Always do a non-abrasive cleaning (like a blower brush) before moving on to wet cleaners! If there's a bit of sand or other hard dirt on the filter, scrubbing it may scratch the filter (or lens) perhaps requiring a replacement. A quick pass with a blower will take care of that problem (and perhaps give all of the cleaning required), then you can decide how ...


Microfiber cloth and drugstore rubbing alcohol. Wipe gently in a circular motion. Air dry. As you can see, everyone seems to have their own method.


I use a microfiber cloth for minor cleaning, and a cleaning fluid (I can't remember what brand, but it's just highly purified alcohol) with PEC-Pads. What ever you use remember two things- if you're using a fluid, always put in on the cloth, not on the glass (this really only applies to lenses, but it's good to get in the habit) and always rub in a circular ...


Ken Rockwell talks a bit about your threading issue here. He seems to think this is the standard 52mm thread, which Canon/Nikon fans would be familiar with, but Leica fans would think was quite unique. Ken is usually right about these things.


MCR (as already noted, Multi Resistant Coated) filters greatly reduce ghosting, something which has often affected exposures made with non-coated versions. Good filters and B&W are possibly the best, will not "compromise the optics of your expensive lens", cheap ones will. The coated versions from B&W cost considerably more, but in the end are worth ...


Lets go to the extreme case so that we can think about what the filter does. Lets take an arbitrary image and then try to reconstruct what the image would have been if there was an R72 filter on the camera. These are IR longpass filters. You really can't take what the sensor recorded and backwards from there to try to reconstruct the actual wavelengths ...

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