Sunset in Kruger

by MrFrench

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3

Pulling film straight from the the freezer and putting it directly into a camera would be a Bad Thing™ as condensation will form on the cold film. And liquid water is something that you don't want to be putting into your camera! What I would do is to bag the film1 before storing and then when needed pull it out and allow it to acclimate while still within ...


7

The originals were that. The originals. Obviously you tried to keep the negatives in a safe manner because the nitrates and films were very flammable, could being eaten by fungus, decolor, or all kind of things. Even in remastering on movies like Star Wars they went for the original negatives, which were in bad shape. In feature films after the original ...


0

I use a stop bath simply because of the speed, I can do it quickly and then get the print washing without another waiting step. Given how very cheap it is, I think it's worth it


12

Conventional wisdom says yes, you should use a stop bath. The stop bath is a very weak acid (similar to white (distilled) vinegar) and is used to neutralise the developing agent. This guarantees two things: You can be sure that you won't have any additional development happening after the developer bath. You won't contaminate your fix with developing ...


1

There is nothing "conventional" about cross processing. Cross processing is the deliberate processing of a film in a chemical process for which it was not designed. The most common types of cross processing are : Processing color negative films with the E6 process Processing color reversal films with the C41 process Processing color negative film in E6 ...


0

One possibility is that the little metal tab that depresses when you close the film door may not be engaged properly by the door when closed (e.g. if the door is bent slightly). This 'finger' is a small metal tab located in the dust seal track just below and to the left of the film advance crank. If this tab is not depressed fully, the film counter will not ...


1

The lab should be able to deduce this, just give them a heads up that theres a mix of colour and b&w but you arent sure which. Not sure if its all film but most b&w i've shot had black backing paper but i believe tmax is orange like most kodaks. Try googling any numbers/letters you can find on the paper backing


0

Are these 120 roll film with paper backing? The backing should be a clue -- if the name of the film isn't written, the color may differ for different emulsions. One might need to spool the film, in a darkroom or darkbox, back to the beginning, for a printed ID. Hopefully, there was a better ID than just a label that was removed.


1

I'm using a slide copier attachment on my camera. I copy the negative to camera raw and open in the Photoshop raw image editor. I select the white balance tool and click on one of the brightest parts of the image. (This will be black or nearly black in the final image.) The white balance tool removes the orange cast in the raw negative. I then use the ...


2

The image looks like it could have been done in-camera, if the camera had a multiple exposure function. If the camera was tilted down for the first exposure, level for the middle exposure then tilted up for the last, you would achieve the stepped gradient effect we see here. The model looks to have been photographed against an evening sky (or sunset), and ...



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