New answers tagged film
Not the same camera, but the button Stan mentioned should be there in the Olympus too. The release button is right there, underside of camera, where the sprocketed axel is inside the camera. Small detention around the button. Keep the button pressed down while you cock the shutter. And in the 2nd photo there is an Olympus Pen D with backside opened. ...
No need to destroy anything — simply depress the rewind lock pin (usually on the base of the camera, directly beneath the sprocket drive) and, depending on the camera, secure the rewind crank with a finger/thumb, while winding on. The rewind lock will disengage the sprocket drive, allowing the shutter to be reset without advancing the film. The reason you ...
I have been using this method for scanning my negatives into my computer via a DSLR. Originally, I was doing this to scan black and white and slide film. Once I read some details about color correction, I was better able to use filters that I had to correct for the orange film of a color negative. What's been identified in comments above is that the blue ...
By using filters when exposing on to the photographic paper. With B&W they were this orangy color of different densities. You would stick the in front of the projector's lens and then expose on to the paper.
Push processing (extending the time the film spends in the developer) increases the contrast of the negative or slide. If you're shooting roll film, you pretty much have to push or pull the whole roll. But for sheet film shooters like Ansel Adams, it was a pretty good way to adjust contrast—terms like "N+1 development" in the Zone System refer to this ...
Most commonly, you used paper with different contrast grade. There are fixed grade papers, normally available in grade 0 to grade 5. There are also variable grade papers (aka Multigrade), where you change the contrast with different filters that gave different colors. See: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Photographic_paper#Contrast_control
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