Road Train !!!!!!!!!!

by Russell McMahon

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Perspective correction is possible in a film/enlarger/paper process, by setting up the paper in a non-parallel relationship to the film. The paper is typically held by an easel which holds it flat. Propping up the easel on one side brings the paper closer to the enlarger head on that side, which in turn increases both magnification and exposure on that ...


I've had a waist level viewfinder attachment for a Nikon, and I've also used medium format gear (like the Yashica) that used them, and I found that I didn't like them on 35mm that much. The 35mm viewing screen feels much smaller than square medium format, making it difficult to use without flipping up the magnifier and holding it up to your eye (which ...


I've used these guys and was very pleased with the service: (They are also recommended here by ken rockwell)


Looking at an eBay auction description, your Kako 720sd specs out with a guide number of 28-40m (I'm assuming that's across the zoom range of 28-85mm), so chances are that this is a pretty decently-powered speedlight (e.g., in the neighborhood of 30m when zoomed to 35mm), in the range of most of the hotshoe flashes you're going to find. Going to a new ...


I think the problem lies in your expectation that the Portra film shots are going to strongly show the effects of different color temperatures. While it's true that Portra 160 (or any commonly-available color film these days) is daylight balanced, color prints and scans of color negatives are always color corrected as part of the process. The photo you're ...


@MirekE has some great advice. I would also add that you can play around with over and under developing easily with your 35mm. Find a scene that shows a wide range of values, ideally a scene where you can set the lens to infinity. The sun should be behind you and over your right or left shoulder. No clouds if possible so the lighting doesn't change suddenly. ...


Unfortunately this is an opinion and even then only an estimate can be made because only you know how much force was exerted on the film. It is always worth it to me to try and develop a roll of film that could potentially come out poorly. If I find a roll in a vintage camera, to me the small cost of development greatly exceeds the potential benefits. ...


Shorter version: Expose it as 3200 and shoot normally. Develop according to the instructions and make sure you use the correct development time for 3200. Longer version: Delta 3200 is not an ISO 3200 film, it is more like ISO 1000-1200. If you expose it as 3200 and develop according to the instructions, you are actually push developing it. The film ...


The OP commented elsewhere "I've seen people say it's actually ISO 800 Film intended to be pushed, and their data sheet says something about it being rated ISO 1000" and the data sheet is by far your best source of information. DELTA 3200 Professional has an ISO speed rating of ISO 1000/31ยบ (1000ASA, 31DIN) to daylight. So yes, it is a fast film ...


why not simply set it to 3200 and run with it? That's what it's rated at... That said, it's a somewhat flexible film and you may get good results at 1600 as well. There's nothing wrong with doing what the package says you should do. Nor is there anything wrong with experimenting.

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