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by Jorge Córdoba

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Clark's research addresses my questions. I can extend his math to current cameras, and know what to really measure.


Many years ago I had a missing negative but a print produced! They lost it after they printed. But other funny details pointed to a cover up, piecing together end from a different roll. I asked online (Compuserve if anyone remembers that) and was told that photo places often messed up and hide it blaming the customer. That included posts from pros who ...


The thing that changes with pinhole camera size is the best pinhole diameter to use. The optimal pinhole diameter is such that your pinhole-to-paper distance is the "Fresnel length" (please google for definition) of the pinhole at some representative wavelength of your filter bandpass. If you don't use a filter then you can guesstimate the sensitivity of ...


I would agree that images missing from the middle point directly to either a mechanical issue, or some other factor where the lens was blocked. A severe under-exposure could also be the culprit. In regards to your question about this possibly being an issue caused by your film processing vendor: If the film itself shows edge print - the text on the edges ...


If you are sure you took 10 photos in the middle of the roll and they don't appear, it sounds like there is a mechanical problem that prevented the film advancing and prevented the shutter opening for 10 exposures, which somehow then righted itself after those exposures. There is a slight chance it could be due to not fully winding the film on during that ...


In the days of film, you didn't have immediate feedback of if you got the histogram right or not (it might have been possible for some high end cameras to do it when they had 1000 pixel exposure meters - the 3d color matrix metering - on a film body - but that time was so quick in passing to practical DSLRs that it didn't make sense). The key thing was, you ...


Yikes!! I couldn't imagine superimposing more than one negative onto a single print. even minor changes in the composition or small misalignment of negatives (film) in the enlarger would blur your print. Carrying around thousands of images in the film era meant having a sizeable backpack and hours squinting in a dark room. "Bracketing" is merely a term ...


It could also be used to have different exposure and thus a higher chance of getting it right (you can't see them on screen). But film is also post-processable, though trickier and less flexible. Dodging, burning, even HDR were fairly common techniques in the film era. Just look at the history of HDR on Wikipedia. There is a very nice answer by Michael ...


The use of exposure bracketing for HDR images has obscured it's original purpose, which was to ensure you got as single exposure that is as good as it can be for the scene. Camera light meters are not accurate and handheld units have their limitations. If you can't go back and want to make sure you got the exposure right in at least one shot you could use ...


When there is no protection from light, you just have to avoid the light. A changing bag is equipment specifically developed for this purpose - you put the camera and your hands in, and extract the film by feel in the darkness of the bag.

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