Westminster fountain at sunset

by Jorge Córdoba

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0

EXPOSURE Refers to the amount of light in the photo. Too much light results in over-exposure. Too little light results in under-exposure Exposure is directly related to Shutter Speed & Aperture. SHUTTER SPEED Controls the amount of time the shutter remains open. Is used in conjunction with Aperture to control light. It is measured in Seconds and can be ...


0

attached you will find two photos I have taken, exposure manually Not just dynamic range, but mostly how it is used and how it is exploited. Such shots need to be exposed correctly, and camera settings need to be low contrast, low saturation and no sharpening; most of the cases lowest possible ISO too (in case of Sony, 1 stop over the lowest ISO because ...


0

No, you're not doing something wrong, and yes, this is a dynamic range issue. It's very common no matter the camera, and typically becomes more common the smaller the sensor format. The RX-100 is actually better than most P&S cameras in this regard. In a situation like this, if you're shooting JPEG, and not RAW, you may want to use the RX-100's HDR ...


1

The term you're looking for is dynamic range, which is the difference between the brightest and darkest areas. If this was shot in RAW I would be surprised if you couldn't pull the highlights back and recover the detail in the clouds, but if this was a JPEG then it's simply a case of the camera not being capable of knowing which bright areas to darken and ...


0

While the question has actually already been well answered, I just wanted to mention the term flange focal distance (also called flange to film distance), see e.g. Wikipedia. Basically, the camera manufacturers as Nikon and Canon have developed their first DSLR's using image sensors smaller than the illuminated film area of 135 film. As they did not want to ...


0

The problem you are facing is that you want to take a circumstance with extremely high dynamic range (more than any digital camera sensor can handle) and make a photo with a more "normal" perceptible dynamic range. You have a few options here... Compress the dynamic range in the actual scene by adding lights. See @moorej's answer and related link to the ...


0

But if I use an f-stop that is high enough to blur the background, my shutter speed only goes up to 1/250s, which produces overexposure. Flash photography is a little different in that you can't use the shutter speed to control the amount of light due to the flash. That's because the duration of the flash at full power is typically around 1/250 sec., ...


0

Not exactly sure of your setup, but they sell diffusers that attach to the flash. The quickest way, however, is to aim the flash at a light colored wall or ceiling instead of directly at the subject. Here is an example. Not only will it reduce the flash intensity, but it also softens and can often eliminate shadows. It is a good all around technique that ...


1

I've been exploring use of flash for the first time myself, using 50mm f1.8 lens. For me I get best results in camera manual mode (pick shutter speed and aperture), and then fine-tuning my flash's manual settings (i.e. for camera settings I leave them stable, and just tinker with the flash). For example - I find flash power 1/16 and zoom 105mm gives really ...


0

Everything looks fine to me, the player in focus looks correctly exposed, the background is off but you used center weighted metering - so the camera looks only at the center and lets the background fall where it falls. If you want the camera to look both at the foreground and background and try to get good exposure on both you need what Nikon calls "matrix ...


1

To answer your basic questions: yes, you should use manual in this situation. Most times when you're shooting in an area with constant, even lighting and you want to maintain exposure between images, use manual. Your camera is correctly metering, but your camera is oblivious to what it is photographing. Looking at your shots, I'm guessing you had some light ...


0

I think that using the Neutral style and configuring the camera to use Adobe RGB instead of sRGB would give the closes possible representation for the "original RAW", but it's actually not anywhere near. And depending on the RAW processor you use, it could still be very different (LR process RAWs very differently than the Canon software, and so on). Anyway, ...


1

Your best option is probably using the "Neutral" picture style, this will apply minimum processing with a flat tone curve and no sharpening. This will give you the closest thing to a raw histogram available in-camera but it will make the jpeg look dull and lifeless - so you'll lose the ability to use the jpeg and preview for anything except judging focus.


4

You can use Magic Lantern to display RAW histogram in live view and image review. Head over to http://www.magiclantern.fm and download the version available for your camera. The installation instructions are different for each camera and can be found in their forums. In order to view RAW histogram in the preview, you could shoot with the technicolor ...


11

You can't view a RAW image, because a RAW file is not an image, it is a set of monochrome luminance values. When the data is converted to RGB using demosaicing certain settings such as contrast, saturation, etc. are applied. There has to be a value for those settings. You are much better off learning to use the histogram (also drawn from the JPEG preview) to ...


5

Your logic is sound. If your assumptions were right, then your conclusion would be right. Let me turn one of your questions around. You ask: Why does crop factor apply with APS-C-lenses, while it sounds like the image circle is compressed onto the APS-C-sensor (thus making a wider FOV)? In fact, the image circle isn't compressed, and does not make a ...


1

The image circle produced by a lens is independent of the focal length. It is the combination of the focal length and the sensor size that determine the effective FOV. For example, a 90mm lens designed for a view camera with film that is 4x5 inches in size will have a wide angle FOV on that camera. But take that same lens and mount it on a DSLR with an APS-C ...


1

You are misunderstanding a few things that are causing you confusion. The only difference between a lens designed for a full frame sensor and a lens designed for an APS-c sensor is that the APS-c lens collects less light since it is producing a smaller image circle. The light per surface area of the image circle is the same, but the circle is smaller. An ...


1

On a basic level, it's not so much overexposing, but shooting with lots of light in the background. This can be a white room (or a white box, depending on the size of the subject), or shot against bright diffuse light outdoors. Most cameras will tend to underexpose such scenes if used in automatic mode, so you would need to compensate by "overexposing". In a ...


0

If your using any cheap model P&S camera trying to do this that is non DSLR and a basic zoom lens please try using ISO 200 and max zoom with tripod. My camera is a Fujifilm Finepix T500 and sucks kinda for "IS" so a tripod is mandatory for this and many other shots. The camera doesn't have manual mode for adjustments on f-stops or a ring, just white ...


0

In the camera specs, the one you're looking for is the slowest shutter speed. For the SX 160 IS, this is 15s. For the Minolta 404 si Dynax, it's 30s. Most compact fixed-lens digital cameras will max out somewhere shorter than 30s. What you really want, if you have to make a five-minute exposure, is bulb mode, which allows you to keep the camera shutter ...


2

According to the Manual: No. The longest shutter time is 15s, even in Manual Mode. No mention of a Bulb mode. Your best shot at achieving functionality is by trying out the CHDK alternative firmware, which allows an override of the Shutter Speed values, letting you select how long you want. It seems the CHDK is available for the SX160 IS (cf. here). Try at ...


0

The SB-700 has a "distance priority manual mode" (GN on the mode switch) that lets you configure the distance to the subject and have the flash power set based on that. It's still manual in the sense that you control exactly what results you get, but will assist you with some of the maths involved.


3

With manual flash and camera in manual mode, I think you already hit on one method of "metering" ... trial and error. Take a picture, chimp, adjust. Repeat until lighting is what you want. The other way is to use a handheld light meter.


6

No. As far as exposure value goes, an f-stop is an f-stop. It's only where depth of field is concerned (and noise calculations derived from "total light captured", if you're the type who has to go there) that you need to think about equivalent f-stops. So if you are reading 1/250 at f/4, set your camera to 1/250 at f/4. That will give you a ...


1

I'll assume you have tried the following: reducing the power of the flash moving the flash further from the subject placing a diffuser between the flash and the subject to absorb a bit of light These will all reduce the amount of illumination arriving on your subject but may not be ideal for your situation. This is an atypical situation -- most ...


3

Here are some options: Find some shade If there's too much light for your style you need a location with less light :-) in mid-day sunlight you may need something pretty big to block enough light but still it's an easy option Shoot at a better time of day At early morning and late evening there's less light and you'll be able to get the aperture/shutter ...


0

You don't mention what kind of flash you are using. If You are using a Canon Speedlite, You should make sure it is set to ETTL otherwise, If you are using a manual flash You need to turn the flash power down.


11

Your camera is limiting your shutter speed to the 60D's maximum sync speed. If you were to use a faster shutter speed, you'd have black bars at the top and/or bottom of the frame, because the shutter curtains would be covering part of the sensor when the flash burst goes off. The only way to use a faster shutter speed than 1/250s with flash it to use ...


1

The manual (M) mode only means the light metering is manual. Focusing is still automatic unless you toggle the MF/AF switch on the lens. In your case, there's simply too little light available for the AF system to find focus, and by default the camera will refuse to take a picture in this situation. How to Force my Nikon D5000 to take a photo in low light? ...


0

This question deals with the pros. Cons If you also focus on half-press, it makes it impossible to lock exposure and lock focus at different times. This means you cannot lock exposure while pointing at something, then re-frame, then lock focus. If your camera has a separate dedicated AE-L button, then using that can allow you to very quickly lock ...


2

When using regulable flashes or countinuous lamps, the lightmeter does not tell the photographer what aperture to use, instead it tells which aperture the current lighting is set up for. The photographer first decides what aperture to use, a suitable ISO and exposure time. The meter is then used to find a flash or lamp setting that is good for the aperture ...


2

Yes, a flashmeter only gives aperture. The shutter speed on the camera merely has to be long enough to ensure the film or sensor are uncovered for the duration of the flash (1/50 sec for a Leica M3, 1/250 for modern SLRs and up to 1/500 for a leaf shutter) and doesn't affect the exposure, assuming ambient light is insignificant compared to the flash output, ...


4

You've only got the three variables to work with -- ISO, aperture, and shutter speed. When shooting in a studio environment, shutter speed doesn't really matter because you're relying upon the lights and their limitations, so you often need to work at 1/60 sec. You input your desired ISO into the light meter, and take a reading. The only variable left is the ...


4

When we talk about flash photography; this is because the shutter speed does not contribute to the exposure from the flash. A flash will output a burst which last maybe 1/1000s, so changing the shutter speed won't affect the exposure from the flash but form the other continuous light sources. And since the light meter used in the first video you linked ...


2

You would let the light meter choose the aperture if you did not care about that choice. That's the short answer. I think you are thinking about it correctly. You need to make a choice of the aperture for DOF reasons or perhaps you care more about a specific shutter speed to capture motion (or not) the way you want. But the light meter has to tell you ...



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