New answers tagged exposure
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If you are interested in this, I would suggest getting 'dcraw' which is a command line RAW converter. There is a Mac version for download from the site, the source code, and if you have HomeBrew installed, you can install it via 'brew install dcraw'.
The 'dcraw' program allows you to specify a variety of options including the Gamma and Exposure level ...
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I think (I'm not sure though) there is no built-in command line tools for such task. Instead, you can use third party softwares. Allow me to introduce you to very nice ImageMagick.
It is a set of cross-platform command-line tools that allow you to do a lot. It has lots of tools and also many scripts based on it are available online. They have also a forum ...
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Side by side, the eye is extremely good at detecting changes in brightness, but that ability goes down considerably if the images are separated. We're very good at detecting changes from one point to a point next to it (contrast), but much less able to do absolute measurement.
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Because the exposure factors of ISO, shutter speed, and aperture are interchangeable in terms of final exposure, you can experiment with this yourself by loading a sample image into a photo processing application like Darktable and playing with the Exposure slider.
The bad news is that the human eye is really good at this, at least when the images are shown ...
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Dynamic range is the difference between the darkest and brightest portion of an image. JPEGs have to represent each color with 8 bits of information where as raw can use more bits (thus more possible values).
There are two options for how the camera can resolve the difference in bit depth. Either it can represent a smaller variation for each value ...
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The histogram your camera displays is based on the in-camera jpeg preview generated when you save a RAW file. In the preview, the data is gone and unrecoverable. The information is still there in the RAW file, though.
Most cameras use in the neighborhood of 12 to 14 bits per color channel, but the JPEG standard only allows 8 bits per channel. When you ...
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This is one of the benefits you get from shooting raw.
You can't recover highlight or shadow detail from a JPEG because it has 8 bits of color depth per color component[1], and it's mapped so that the lowest pixel value is interpreted as "black", and the highest is "white." There simply is nothing below black or above white. The creators of JPEG did this ...
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I would like to add that unlike a traditional DSLR, the mirror in an SLT is not essentual to the operation of the camera. It can be removed in a few seconds and carefully stored in many small compact flash card cases. The camera will operate without a complaint in manual mode. The contrast based manual focus assist will still function. The preview in ...
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Well I too own a Nikon D7000 and never saw the exposure indicator in any mode other than manual.I think it make sense too as if you are in Aperture Priority its the camera that adjust the correct exposure by picking the appropriate shutter speed same is in Shutter Priority.Hope this helps.
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The simple answer is change the exposure based on metering if consistent exposure is what you want to accomplish. Most likely, changing the shutter time would be the best bet, though if there was any motion effects in the time lapse (such as running water) then the change in shutter speed might throw it off some. ISO is likely to cause issues with varying ...
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Just to make sure we're clear. TTL flash doesn't adjust specifically because of or when you adjust your flashes. What happens is that when you go to take a photo, there are actually several flashes in rapid succession (so fast they look like 1).
If you are using optical sync, there is a control flash to tell the flashes to all pre-flash and configure ...
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Yes. This is an advantage of through-the-lens metering, as the effect of the flash is judged based the light that, well, actually comes through the lens. It doesn't need to know anything fancy about angles; it just measures the effect on exposure. (on modern systems, using a low-powered "preflash" to test, and calculating from that).
This can be fooled by ...
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There order does not matter if you are in Manual mode. The picture just requires all three to be set. Actually, they are always all set since exposure parameters have no unset value. If you are shooting manual it is your responsibility to set parameters to get the exposure you want but the order in which you set parameters has no impact on the outcome.
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There isn't really an optimal choice. In general, you will almost always want the lowest ISO possible to reduce noise. You then want to adjust the shutter to be as fast as necessary to capture any movement and then want to adjust the aperture for the desired depth of field.
If the image is too bright, you can speed the shutter. If the image is too ...
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In perfect conditions, if you could stop time, the best will probably be:
the lowest native ISO of your camera (not counting the low 1 or similar ISOs of the different brands),
the f-number in the sweet stop of your lens, usually around two f-tops smaller of the widest you have,
and choosing your speed and/or the power of your light sources consequently.
...
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It, of course, depends.
You want to change that which affects the photograph negatively the least.
If you are shooting scenery, you have a decent latitude in terms of aperture. You ideally want to be above f/8 and can easily go as far as f/22 (although you may lose sharpness after f/16). You have even greater latitude in terms of shutter speed, anywhere ...
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The camera wants it to be Zone 5 if you smush all the tones together.
The histogram wants it to be solid black at it's darkest pixel and pure white at it brightest (though thats more of a contrast thing)
You can have it anyway you choose.
Kudo's to guy who mentioned the Ansel Adams system. The king of the correct exposure.
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I'd dare to say the correct exposure is whatever is needed for the artist to get the effect he or she desires. That might be technical perfection, but it might also be deliberate over- or underexposure used to get specific artistic effects.
I've used this myself to get seriously blown out highlights, causing a winter beach scene to look like a desert under a ...
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1) How does a DSLR do continuous focusing (AI servo/AFC)? Does it literally flip the mirror up, take the shot, put the mirror down, refocuses and repeat?
Yes. Camera also predicts the correct focusing point accounting for the delays of the mirrors and object's movement.
However some DSLR also have a "live view" mode which allows it to detect focus using ...
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You covered most of the advantages that SLT cameras enjoy over DSLRs, but there are a few other differences that give the traditional DSLR an advantage as well.
With an SLT camera, 100% of the light entering the light box never reaches the sensor. In brighter conditions this loss is fairly minimal, but in very low light conditions it can mean the ...
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Short answer: the difference is in an SLR the mirror flips up to take a photo, whereas the SLT employs a semi-transparent mirror so that the mirror never has to move.
Now to your questions:
1) How does a DSLR do continuous focusing (AI servo/AFC)? Does it literally flip the mirror up, take the shot, put the mirror down, refocuses and repeat?
That's ...
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Your understanding is accurate. There are variations but the most significant difference is what you see in the viewfinder. This answer goes into all the details.
The other significant difference is that the PDAF sensors are available during exposure and video-capture. This lets an SLT camera measure AF while an image is being recorded and then it adjusts ...
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Ansel Adams developed the Zone System to allow him to select the exposure levels of specific objects in his photos in relation to other specific objects with different luminosities rather than basing the exposure on a single meter reading of an object with the approximate average luminosity of the overall scene. We often forget that cameras have only had ...
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I'm not sure if this is a "how is exposure defined" question or an "is my camera busted" question, so I'll try to address both. :)
Definition of proper exposure
ISO standard 1271 contains a definition for photographic exposure.
Bypassing the math, "correct" exposure averages a scene's luminance and renders that luminance at a particular (but arbitrary) ...
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The "correct" exposure may vary some from one image processing system to another, but the general goal is to make the darkest and brightest parts of the image both fall within the dynamic range of the camera with a good white balance and natural contrast.
The bright and dark part is easy if the scene doesn't exceed the dynamic range of the camera since it ...
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Although the implementation of many features such as this is likely different across manufacturers, market classes and even generations of equivalent models:
As observed on a Nikon D3100, assuming that ISO is fixed:
In semi-auto modes (A and S) there is only one variable, which will be adjusted as requested.
In P mode, the program diagram shown in the ...
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The entire "EV" system is designed to remove the need to do real calculation while shooting. A change of one stop in EV compensation means that one of the exposure factors — aperture, shutter, or ISO — will be doubled (to let in more light, for positive EV adjustments) or halved (do darken the exposure with a negative EV adjustment).
For shutter and ISO, ...
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