Butterfly

by Rodrigo

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2

One of the decisions Nikon made when Autofocus first became a viable technology on a consumer scale about 25 years ago was to create a system that allowed it to be backwards compatible with the existing Nikon F-mount lens lineup. This meant maintaining a mechanical link between the camera body and lens to stop down to the aperture setting selected on the ...


1

Some cameras had no means of controlling anything. Some automatic cameras, however, used a small photovoltaic cell to move an internal spring-loaded "meter movement". Note that the cell could produce only a tiny amount of electricity, but that a sensitive meter movement doesn't take much. Note that the meter movement did not directly have to move anything ...


1

Where you're getting confused is in how shutter speed affects flash exposure vs. ambient exposure. If you typically don't use a flash, you assume that a longer shutter speed will create a brighter exposure, no matter what. In most situations, a flash burst is many times faster than your shutter speed. Keeping the shutter open for a longer period of time ...


8

In Av (and Tv) mode, flash is not assumed to be primary light source, so camera will choose exposure to match metered ambient light. In P mode, however, the camera tries to ensure exposure time is quick enough for handheld shooting, and thus will happily expose for the flash-illuminated subject, ignoring the lack of ambient light. To put it in flash terms, ...


3

Canon DSLR's operate in so-called "slow sync" mode when in Av mode. That means, the exposure time is set to expose for ambient light, just like without flash. This is useful to freeze your foreground subject with the flash, but still get a natural background lighting. (try shooting a person at night in the open to see the difference!) I like to dial in a ...


3

It is not possible with your 600D. You have to use additional post-processing software like Photoshop, Gimp or something else. Please see here: http://support-au.canon.com.au/contents/AU/EN/8201440300.html and here: Can one create multiple exposure images with a Canon DSLR?


2

There is a very old and very good rule of thumb called "Sunny Sixteen" that, while not always accurate (and not a great way to determine critical exposure with a digital camera) can help you check the sanity of whatever your camera's meter is telling you. "Sunny Sixteen" basically says that, in bright midday sun (the "sunny" part), in "ordinary ...


4

Since I doubt you want or can increase the shutter speed, you should get a ND filter. You've already mentioned that you've tried to increase the shutter speed, and you most likely already know about ISO, a neutral density filter would be the way to go for you. A ND filter is basically a gray "lens" that darkens your image. ND filters have various densities, ...


7

There is a reason it's choosing f/8 aperture: With most lenses the sharpest image is produced at apertures in that range. The only reason to select wider apertures when you don't need the light is to produce a shallower depth of field, in which case you have three options to compensate for the exposure: Increase shutter speed Decrease ISO If you run out ...



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