by damned truths

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Focus on an eye. Exposure: all of them! This is a staged event and a must-have shot. Figure out the general idea using a digital camera where you can see the result right away. Then start with those settings on the good camera. Shoot bursts of 3 on each shot, so you have 3 identical pictures with tiny differences in people's faces, to choose from. ...


Where should the focus on the group be? A good rule of thumb is that you get 2/3s of your depth of field behind the focal point, and 1/3 in front of it - so pick the extreme points you want in focus (probably the middle of the front row of people and the ends of the back row of people, unless you want the Christmas tree in focus) and focus 1/3 of the ...


The two lenses differ by two stops wide open. That means that at a constant ISO, you can shoot with the f/1.4 at four times shorter exposure than with the f/2.8. This is commonly referred to as the exposure triangle. You get the same exposure for all combination where aperture * aperture * shutter time * ISO is constant.


Actually just did a ton of research on this myself and found this great article: It give's you the run down of the different lens options and what actually goes into taking pictures of the Milky Way. Just got the lens I ordered for this the other day. Got myself a Sigma 30mm f/1.4 which, was very ...


Luckily, modern film has great latitude in exposure. You could always apply the "Sunny 16" rule. That is, for any film, at a shutter speed of 1/ASA (for example 1/400 for 400 ASA, 1/250 for 250 ASA) , the following apertures apply : f/16 Sunny f/11 Slight overcast f/8 Overcast Barely visible f/5.6 Heavy overcast f/4 Open ...


Aside from opening up the aperture to its maximum (bearing in mind the depth of field issues this will bring) you can increase the exposure time if you steady the camera against a solid object. For example press the camera against a column or rest it on a pew. It's surprising the length of exposure you can get away with without suffering camera shake.


The only settings that make shooting in a dark environment easy is the one you change at a light switch. You can't change the basics of physics. To develop a photo, a certain number of photons have to reach your sensor. Either you give them a bigger opening (faster lens) which requires a better lens and also reduces depth of field, you increase the ...


I had a must-have photo that was too dark or grainy for the same reasons. I went with a stylized image using a photo as a starting point. This was pre-digital: T-max 400, pushed to 800. That is a high-quality B&W film for you youngsters.


In addition to the points mattdm has made, you can shoot a few pictures of the same scene in rapid succession. Unlike when using a tripod, you won't be able to achieve perfect alignment of the pictures; without a tripod, the shifts will be rather large and then the fact that there will be a parallax will prevent you from perfectly aligning the pictures. But ...


Camera settings are never going to make this easy. Photographs need light to work, and while modern sensors are actually quite sensitive, they can't live up to our perceptions, because our brains take the dark, noisy image from our eyes and subconsciously make a mental model where the imperfections aren't noticed. You don't mention what lens you are using, ...


Actually, YES -if your A7 is like the A7s It's under the custom setting - "AEL w/ shutter (still image)" set it to 'On' AND set your ISO to Auto. It will then adjust and hold the ISO when when you partially press the shutter button when in M mode. Alternatively, set ISO to Auto, ensure you have AE Lock enabled, flip the AEL/AF/MF lever to AEL, then ...


So, it depends on what you're trying to replicate, here. The G16 is a small-sensor camera, but a fairly nice one, and you can get good results in good conditions, especially at "web sizes" as shown on photo-sharing sites. One thing I want to note to start is that the perfectly straight vertical lines strongly suggest that this photo was shot in RAW and had ...


There is a formula, it's called the exposure equation. However, I doubt it will be helpful. In general, you should not try to replicate someone else's settings unless you have exactly the same lighting conditions. I would suggest you simply trust your meter, at least as a starting point. If the exposure as per the meter is not good, then you can apply a ...


No. This is a function of some cameras, most notably those of Pentax, yet these are the exception rather than the norm.


Although there are already a couple of great answers here, let me provide my own take at the exposure triangle. This one is intended to be both genuinely triangular (meaning that it is triangular in a deeper sense than just having some “threeness”) and mathematically accurate as a representation of the exposure equation. Introducing... The quantitative ...


Gray is used because it's indifferent to differences in color temperature. If you used an 18% red card in the shade, the cooler light would make the red card be a biased measurement standard. The same thing would happen if you used a blue card in tungsten lighting- the lack of blue light frequencies would make it appear darker. With a gray card, such ...


If the exposure is correct, then it is not an exposure problem. The problem is that you are working in difficult conditions, with low light and people moving. There is really no good solution. You either push the ISO until you have an acceptable aperture (for depth of field) and shutter speed (for avoiding motion blur), or you use the flash. For these kind ...

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