Alley in Pisa, Italy

by Lars Kotthoff

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1

Taking a look at page 78 of the manual as far as I can tell your camera does not have any option to extend beyond 8 seconds in camera. I also don't see an option for a remote control or shutter release that would give that ability. You could(and should) stack multiple 8 second exposures in post processing though. Take a look at this existing question: How ...


10

Three things: Film is relatively lenient, and exposure variations are handled in the printing. The lens has a relatively small fixed aperture and focus is set at a reasonable distance to get a lot of depth of field. Finally, prints from these things are usually 4×6, and not subjected to a high degree of scrutiny — we basically expect them to be relatively ...


1

This question is an enormous can of worms, in a good way. Of course, different people will have different understandings of what makes a "good" photograph. But this judgement will be based on the specific knowledge the person has, cultural expectations, and where the judgement is located historically. A "wedding" photographer and an art historian will have ...


2

I say for purely evaluating quality of a photograph exposure is the only measure. Oh... and resolution. But without considering the subject this can get silly... I can make a perfectly exposed image of a pitch black night sky or I could create a portrait with beautiful bokeh that completely covers my subjects face. So, for viewer enjoyment (if you want ...


2

You can't really rank them in any meaningful way because each photo is different and will have a different ranking. That being said, the ones I can think of off hand are: composition, good exposure, global contrast, local contrast, sharpness, saturation, depth of field, color balance, and noise.


1

They simply mean that when using a higher ISO, you can use a higher shutter speed, smaller aperture, or both. There is no such thing as "reduced exposure parameters." It seems like you don't have a good grasp of exposure. There's a good primer at http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/camera-exposure.htm


0

Not a direct answer to your question. Still it is worth to take a look at the following for histograms and highlight clipping: Understanding Histograms in Photography Evaluating Your Images—Histograms CAMERA HISTOGRAMS: TONES & CONTRAST CAMERA HISTOGRAMS: LUMINOSITY & COLOR Reading the histogram


0

What I don't understand is how TTL and preflash work when there are 3 flashes firing at the same time. The answer may be somewhat dependent on the system that you're using. In Canon's system, and probably others, each flash group emits a separate preflash. The camera can then determine power levels for each group based on the total light needed for ...


0

Since all flashes fire at the same time (triggered by a pre-flash or radio signal) the camera does the exact same exposure check it does without flash. TTL means through the lens, so it just looks at how much light hits the sensor. There are different exposure measurements, like e. g. "global metering" (as I'll simply call it), which uses complicated ...


2

There's a bit of post production going on in that image that is probably clouding things somewhat. If you look at the area at the top of the image it's clearly been blown out (overexposed) and then brought back from pure white to a dirty grey pink colour. This says to me two things - the contrast of the image has been lowered so that the blacks and whites ...


1

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.longexposure2&hl Try This. Because phone camera is no aperture, so not really long exposure Although not a true long exposure, but the effect is very similar


5

You need to shoot at either sunrise or set (sunset is generally warmer in tone), when the sun is very low in the sky. Shoot with the sun behind the model (taking care not to look directly at it if possible). As you are shooting into the sun, you need some light source to light the front of your model: this could either be a diffused flash or a reflector. As ...


1

There is an article on strobist that goes over shooting a CFL bulb. The author forgoes HDR and the like and just uses speedlights. If you don't have access to strobes and are only using continuous lighting, then you can still balance the CFL with your other lighting; simply set your camera up for a longer exposure (stopping down the lens, low iso, and low ...


9

In the immortal words of the late National Geographic photo editor Bob Gilka, "Kid, if you want to be a better photographer, you're going to have to stand in front of more interesting stuff." That said, welcome to the sometimes not-so-wonderful world of the commercial/industrial photographer. As often as not, making a dramatic, exciting picture of something ...


1

While the specifics are somewhat brand-dependent, this question has essentially been answered already in one of your follow-up questions. Start with the following assumptions: There is no magic involved; everything that happens will be as simple as it possibly can be and still work; The system is not and cannot be foolproof; any sufficiently advanced fool ...


1

You might also try "place and fall" as an exposure technique. In traditional photography this usually means exposing for your shadows and letting the midtones and hightlights fall accordingly. With digital, overexposure is more of a problem than under so you can "place" the brightest part of your scene. For instance: in manual mode spotmeter the brightest ...


0

I think you're potentially confusing metering and exposure here: the way to get this shot looking better is (as commented elsewhere) to avoid the overexposure you've got. How you change the exposure is to some extent irrelevant - it doesn't matter if you do it via using a different metering mode, by using exposure compensation, or by going over to manual ...


2

It only requires two values to figure out. Before the pre-flash it knows how much light is ambient. For the pre-flash it knows how much light the scene gets from the flash at a fixed power. It knows how much more or less light is needed for a standard exposure and simply sets the flash power accordingly since it knows exactly how effective the flash is ...


2

The metering flash is almost always relatively low powered. The camera compares the amount of light the metering flash produced to the amount of the pre-flash light that is reflected back to the camera by the subject. It then computes what percentage of light was returned from the metering flash, assumes the same proportion of light will be returned at any ...


4

There isn't nearly as much to figure out as you seem to think. Let's say that you have a scene in front of you that is nicely illuminated and doesn't really need flash at all, and you meter for, and set a manual exposure for, an ambient exposure that would have been absolutely perfect. Then, for some inexplicable reason, you decide to add manual flash ...


1

For a shot like this, I would either use evaluative metering and dial in an EC to adjust for any issue the sky provided or I'd do spot metering on the outer leaves of the tree. As it is currently, it looks like it metered too much on the shadows and over exposed slightly, leading to a weak black point and wasted dynamic range in an already very wide dynamic ...


0

1 - If you want to get a reasonable exposure on the sky as well as the tree, then take the picture on a clear day (it looks overcast here, so the sky is a uniform bright mass), or wait until a different time of the day when the light coming from tree and sky is of a more similar level. 2 - The texture of the leaves here is down to sharpness as much as ...



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