Napioa - Wind Origins

Napioa - Wind Origins
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0

I wonder that if I increase the exposure of a RAW in some software, say, Lightroom, what do I lose in the image. It's important to keep in mind that no matter what you do to post-process a raw image to create some other output that is more readily "consumable" (i.e., JPEG, or PNG, etc.), you will lose data compared to the raw file. There is much more ...


3

...is it same as I increase ISO when capturing the photo? If they won't be the same, what's the difference... The end result is similar, but how you get there and the side effects are different. Increasing the ISO setting on the camera results in the addition of gain (amplification) in the path between the sensor and analog-to-digital converter, which ...


0

(Disclaimer: I'm Italian, it's fatiguing for me to write in English and moreover to write in technical jargon. Thus, the following explanation take a few shortcuts to be easier to write and to understand) I'll start from the bottom; increasing ISO in camera cannot obviously be like increasing the exposure of a file, whatever the algorithm used: increasing ...


0

Yes they can and many but not all do. It depends on the camera model but often cameras with manual controls use the same step sizes which makes it simple to switch between the automatic and manual exposuse and get the same results. On digital sensors ISO can almost be continuously variable but some sensors have dedicated circuits to provide better gain and ...


0

For usual photography (i.e. not high precision scientific measurements), there is no point in setting it in finer increments. The mechanical shutters and mechanical apertures used in these cameras are simply not that accurate. You can try this by firing off a few shots in continuous mode, and looking at the histogram of each shot. Set your camera to ...


3

It sounds like your core question here is how to convert the "1536 LM" — presumably meaning lm, the standard prefix for lumens — to an exposure value which you can use to find camera settings. That's fundamentally the same question as How do I compare a continuous light panel's brightness vs. flash through a softbox? There I was starting with candelas ...


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Using f2.8, ISO 12,800, and exposure 1/1000 second, Sunny 16 calculates EV6. That is somewhere between a night street scene [EV7] and night automotive traffic[EV5]. I'd set those parameters manually rather than hoping auto ISO gets it right.


2

In manual, cameras have 1/2 and 1/3 stop increments because it is difficult to discern 1/3 of a stop, much less a finer resolution than that, and smaller increments would simply mean having to spin a thumb wheel that many more times to get to the setting you want. In an auto mode you would think the camera could freely choose any intermediate value it ...


2

It can depend upon the camera and lens you are using, but the vast majority of cameras use the same step sizes whether shooting in manual mode, a semi-automatic mode, or fully automatic mode.


1

The D3200 User Manual says: "Selecting live view in "Auto" or "Flash disabled" mode enables automatic scene selection (“scene auto selector”) when autofocus is used." (Page 20) Can it happen that you are in either of these, and not in P, A, S, or M? Also, Depending on the scene, exposure may differ from that which would be obtained when live ...


3

I've accidentally exposed two 400 ASA B&W films at 200 ASA In other words, you've overexposed it by a stop. (See What is the relationship between ISO, aperture, and shutter speed? if you need a refresher on that.) The fix for this is called "pull processing" (the opposite of "push processing", which is used when you underexpose, treating the fill as ...


1

Personal opinion only: I find that a sharp but noisy picture is usually preferable to a less noisy out of focus picture. Exceptions may be in situations where artistic aspects make the achieved degree of blur acceptable. Your findings may differ. (1) Lowest speed - SSL : Shoot at as low a speed as you can and still tolerate the target's & your motion ...


1

Your best approach when exposure time is fixed (and practically limited) is record RAW images and use as high ISO as possible without loosing necessary highlights. This graph shows how to select the best ISO setting for lowest SNR. You drop diagonal onto the graph and pick the ISO which is closest to it. In this graph the ISO settings closest to ideal are ...


3

No, there is no practical way of deducing one of images from "multiexposure" serie which results in single file.


1

You can try using polarizers on the light source and/or lens. You will need to determine experimentally if using crossed polarizers increases the contrast sufficiently.


0

I just called Nikon on this topic, my manual modes were not working. The camera showed eveything was overexposed but shot them underexposed. The camera's meter would not move no matter how much I tried to adjust the settings. The solutions was to turn off the camera in automode. turn it back on and hold down the 2buttons by the green dots, mine were the +/- ...


0

Another trick, which avoids changing settings but is easier with a tripod is to autofocus, release, flick the switch on the lens to set manual focus, then recompose and shoot. I sometimes do this, or occasionally change focus point, but I prefer a half press to lock the exposure as well as the focus (if the background is lighter than the subject it's often ...


3

Your camera is locking both focusing and metering with shutter button half-press - focus lock is called AFL, metering lock is called AEL. It will be most convinient for you to setup your camera to not lock metering with half-press. You do not need to use additional buttons for that at all despite other suggestions.


9

It sound like your camera is locking the exposure in addition to the focus when you perform a half shutter press. This would explain the overexposure when moving from a dark river to the bright sky: the camera is set to expose a dark scene properly, but it then gets pointed at a brighter scene, and subsequently over exposes. The converse is true as well, ...


3

This happens because (by default) a half-press on the shutter not only sets the auto-focus, but the auto-exposure as well. If you don't want to set the exposure or focus manually, you can set one of the function buttons to activate auto-exposure lock ("AEL"). With this setup, you would point the camera at the object you want to expose for first, push the AEL ...


3

Anytime you can afford the delay. It reduces vibration from the mirror movement which simply means there will be reduced vibration in the system. This is always good, unless, of course, you cannot time your shot in advance beause you are shooting a moving subject. This does not mean that it always needed since there are other sources of vibration such as ...


1

When using tripod, it can be harmful for image quality to use VR as it does not guarantee shake absence even when camera is steady (if you imply Nikon's VR). However, certain implementations of stabilisation may be good even with tripod but you need to check it yourself. When canera is not fixed it may indeed be profitable to use exposure delay (both with ...


0

I recently found an option "Exposure delay" to minimize vibration. But is it necessary to use when you have VR on the lens? The point of Exposure Delay mode is to wait for the camera to settle after the mirror has been flipped up, and only then open the shutter, because the mirror's movement can cause vibrations. That's especially important for macro ...



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