Lightnings taking a ride

by ceinmart

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-1

Your question does not make sense, because your input data is wrong. When you use Auto-ISO, the camera will adjust ISO to the light when you are in Manual mode. So even if you set it to 6400, the camera will set it to another ISO and if possible produce a "correct" exposure under actual lighting contidions. The settings you suggest, f/8 at 1/13 sec, may ...


0

(Seems like a rather slow shutter speed and extremely high ISO for broad daylight pics!) Keep in mind that your eyes can and do adjust to different illuminations while your camera does not. If our eyes were good at estimating the brightness of a scene, we wouldn't need light meters in our cameras or external ones. toying [...] broad daylight Well, ...


-4

This may be a common problem with that camera model when encountering heat and humidity in some locales. You may have to send it in to get the shutter replaced. Once replaced you will notice the images improve but also the sound of the shutter is different.


2

in shutter/aperture priority modes, you are choosing shutter speed OR aperture and the camera is choosing the other 2 inputs that determine exposure; ISO and aperture/shutter speed. The camera makes it's decision on the amount light being detected at the sensor, but the amount of light used in the "decision" is heavily affected by the metering mode which is ...


0

I almost always use spot metering and "expose to the right" WITHOUT CLIPPING. By doing so, 99 out of 100 I get my exposure "technically correct" Unless I am after some special effects, very little is needed in post editing


0

In addition to the other answers: for sure, it depends on the camera, but it also depends a lot on the picture you are taking. If your picture does not have a lot of contrast (i.e. if the difference between the darkest point and the lightest one is small), then you have much more freedom to over/under expose it. Basically, the histogram of your picture is ...


0

It depends on the camera. For example, if your camera has 10 stops of maximum dynamic range at 100 ISO and you shoot at 400 ISO, you may not be able to get any additional stop when going RAW. Even more so at 800 ISO and up. Check this article with practical examples about it: http://www.clarkvision.com/articles/raw.versus.jpeg1/ Modern cameras also process ...


3

First, it's not a issue of detail or sharpness, but one of signal to noise ratio. Second, instead of asking, why haven't you done the obvious thing and just tried it!? Let's say you ultimately want a post-processed image with 8 bit per color resolution. In theory, that means any additional bits your camera converts color values to represent extra dynamic ...


2

It depends on the camera. Cameras with more dynamic range will give you greater exposure latitude. With standard professional grade DSLRs you get 8-10 stops of latitude. With some cinematic cameras such as the Sony A7S you may be able to get 12 stops. As far as gathering detail from the shadows, a Canon 5D can get 2 maybe 3 stops out of the shadows. In the ...


1

The math on two fstops is the square root of the sum of the two squares, but I don't know about EV. If the lights were equal, and if they lighted the same overlapping area, twice the light is one stop additional. But you say the ambient is 3 stops down from the lamp, so it won't have much effect. This ambient adds less than 0.2 stop increase, not over ...


1

RAW images do not contain all information that could be retrieved from a scene. They simply contain more information than JPEG images. When a photographer chooses to bracket photographs and combine them later, it is usually because the bright and dark areas of their scene are sufficiently different that the camera is not capable of detecting the differences ...


4

I've found that bracketing by ±1 or ±2EV doesn't help, but bracketing by ±3EV does. I did the following experiment: First, I picked a high dynamic range scene, short of directly shooting the sun. Here, the sun was partially behind thin clouds, and it was uncomfortably bright to look at with the naked eye. In other words, it was much brighter than it looks ...


0

You may find you want to take either the +1 or the -1 from the RAW, and you won't know until you sit down to work on it. This is true even if you have bracketed exposures. If something moves between exposures you can have strange effects with proper HDR. Even if you think everything is still the slightest breeze can do this, or a solid tripod on a ...


4

Let me add the issue of noise to the answers already given. Suppose that the 0 EV exposure is good enough, the shadows are not underexposed, the bright areas are not overexposed, then it's still the case that using the +1 EV exposure (for the parts that are not overexposed) will yield a lower noise picture. By exposing for longer and then adjusting the ...


3

It depends. If the entire dynamic range of the scene can be captured in a single exposure, then it is redundant. If the entire dynamic range of the scene exceeds the capacity of a single exposure, and you wish to capture that entire dynamic range, then you need to bracket. Be aware that a single 14-bit raw file may contain as much dynamic range information ...


7

Bracketing is useful when the scene exceeds the dynamic-range of the camera. That is it. There is no answer that applies all the time because it depends on the scene.


6

If I assume that the default 0 EV has reasonable exposure, does this mean that the -1 and +1 RAWs are more or less redundant? If the exposure is reasonable in both the shadows and highlights — that is, the scene has a dynamic range that easily fits within what the camera can capture — then yes, you're right. Bracketed exposure doesn't do much for you. ...


10

The point of bracketing in the context you described is to come up with a higher dynamic range that the one you can get with a single picture because you want or need to do it. Even if RAW has more bits per channel than JPEG, it still have a limited dynamic range. So depending of the scene you have in front of you, you will want or need to take pictures ...


5

I have a Godox V860C light and a Godox Cells II remote trigger. OK, from this, I gather that you have a Canon camera. The Godox V860C is an eTTL-II-capable flash, so if you want to use that capability, it's there. However, the Cells II triggers are manual triggers that do not communicate eTTL information, so with this specific combination you do not ...


2

A partial answer: Does E-TTL work when the flash is off shoe? I don't think it does. If so, does that mean the E-TTL is pointless whenever shooting off-shoe? You need to set the 3 parts to TTL mode: the flash, the trigger, and the camera. I put the flash in manual mode and on full power (1/1). I should be in manual mode, right? If any of the 3 ...


0

The Best thing i could suggest is to play with not only the lighting power settings but also to use the camera in full manual where you can adjust the exposure manually. Exposure is always controlled by the camera and the light is to help increase the brightness or fill in dark areas in the exposure. When i use my flashes, its always set lights then modify ...


3

Yes, this is generally the case. If you fix a value like aperture (which is what you are doing when you set the camera to Av mode), one of the other exposure factors must change — and the only other options are shutter speed and ISO. If you are using automatic ISO, that may or may not change first, according to your specific camera's program line. If you ...


1

Yes. If you are in Aperture Priority mode, you are fixing the aperture where you want it and letting the camera decide the appropriate shutter speed. Thus, if you switch to +1 EC, the shutter will stay open longer.


2

In Aperture Priority mode, you set a chosen aperture and the camera will automatically match the shutter speed so that a correct exposure is produced (according to the metering mode). The exposure indicator will only be shown if you apply an exposure compensation (hold the +/- button and rotate the command dial). By default the exposure compensation is set ...


1

I think logic will tell you what the problem is: When all three modes are used without flash, the image looks the same. When all three modes are used with flash, the images are different. So, let's investigate the flash. Now, what makes a flash work? Well, we have a power source, a xeon bulb, and a large capacitor. More than likely, your batteries ...


0

Your friend probably wants pictures leaning back on the tree trunk, but it can be deep shade back in there (and green light, icky). Your best light will be out under the edge of the tree drip line, in the shade, but inviting open shade instead of deep shade. Maybe try some his way, but at minimum, try some of it the better way.



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