Hot answers tagged exposure
7
Yes. This is an advantage of through-the-lens metering, as the effect of the flash is judged based the light that, well, actually comes through the lens. It doesn't need to know anything fancy about angles; it just measures the effect on exposure. (on modern systems, using a low-powered "preflash" to test, and calculating from that).
This can be fooled by ...
6
This is one of the benefits you get from shooting raw.
The reason a JPEG can't recover highlight (or shadow) detail is that it has 8 bits of color depth per channel, or 24-bit for RGB. That's roughly as much as we need for a properly-exposed image. The human eye has a broader sensitivity than this, but we don't actually see that broader brightness range all ...
5
If you are spot metering the brightest points, you are telling the camera to put that in the medium exposure, and everything else will end up below it, except for brighter highlights, so will want to EC it up, so you are telling it that this is the bright area of the scene.
It is when you have snow all over and meter on a darker subject, you might want to ...
5
It, of course, depends.
You want to change that which affects the photograph negatively the least.
If you are shooting scenery, you have a decent latitude in terms of aperture. You ideally want to be above f/8 and can easily go as far as f/22 (although you may lose sharpness after f/16). You have even greater latitude in terms of shutter speed, anywhere ...
4
Short answer: the difference is in an SLR the mirror flips up to take a photo, whereas the SLT employs a semi-transparent mirror so that the mirror never has to move.
Now to your questions:
1) How does a DSLR do continuous focusing (AI servo/AFC)? Does it literally flip the mirror up, take the shot, put the mirror down, refocuses and repeat?
That's ...
3
I'm not sure if this is a "how is exposure defined" question or an "is my camera busted" question, so I'll try to address both. :)
Definition of proper exposure
ISO standard 1271 contains a definition for photographic exposure.
Bypassing the math, "correct" exposure averages a scene's luminance and renders that luminance at a particular (but arbitrary) ...
3
Your understanding is accurate. There are variations but the most significant difference is what you see in the viewfinder. This answer goes into all the details.
The other significant difference is that the PDAF sensors are available during exposure and video-capture. This lets an SLT camera measure AF while an image is being recorded and then it adjusts ...
3
I'd dare to say the correct exposure is whatever is needed for the artist to get the effect he or she desires. That might be technical perfection, but it might also be deliberate over- or underexposure used to get specific artistic effects.
I've used this myself to get seriously blown out highlights, causing a winter beach scene to look like a desert under a ...
2
An example shot where zero exposure compensation worked out best.
Olympus compact camera, 1/125 sec, f/3.5, ISO 200, flash -1.0, exp.comp 0.0
My learning experience from taking this shot tells me I should have flooded the cats with light, and not even try it in the dim like I did. The problem is the black cat, really. Exposure to the white one would ...
2
Dynamic range is the difference between the darkest and brightest portion of an image. JPEGs have to represent each color with 8 bits of information where as raw can use more bits (thus more possible values).
There are two options for how the camera can resolve the difference in bit depth. Either it can represent a smaller variation for each value ...
2
The histogram your camera displays is based on the in-camera jpeg preview generated when you save a RAW file. In the preview, the data is gone and unrecoverable. The information is still there in the RAW file, though.
Most cameras use in the neighborhood of 12 to 14 bits per color channel, but the JPEG standard only allows 8 bits per channel. When you ...
2
Ansel Adams developed the Zone System to allow him to select the exposure levels of specific objects in his photos in relation to other specific objects with different luminosities rather than basing the exposure on a single meter reading of an object with the approximate average luminosity of the overall scene. We often forget that cameras have only had ...
2
The "correct" exposure may vary some from one image processing system to another, but the general goal is to make the darkest and brightest parts of the image both fall within the dynamic range of the camera with a good white balance and natural contrast.
The bright and dark part is easy if the scene doesn't exceed the dynamic range of the camera since it ...
2
The simple answer is change the exposure based on metering if consistent exposure is what you want to accomplish. Most likely, changing the shutter time would be the best bet, though if there was any motion effects in the time lapse (such as running water) then the change in shutter speed might throw it off some. ISO is likely to cause issues with varying ...
1
Just to make sure we're clear. TTL flash doesn't adjust specifically because of or when you adjust your flashes. What happens is that when you go to take a photo, there are actually several flashes in rapid succession (so fast they look like 1).
If you are using optical sync, there is a control flash to tell the flashes to all pre-flash and configure ...
1
There order does not matter if you are in Manual mode. The picture just requires all three to be set. Actually, they are always all set since exposure parameters have no unset value. If you are shooting manual it is your responsibility to set parameters to get the exposure you want but the order in which you set parameters has no impact on the outcome.
...
1
In perfect conditions, if you could stop time, the best will probably be:
the lowest native ISO of your camera (not counting the low 1 or similar ISOs of the different brands),
the f-number in the sweet stop of your lens, usually around two f-tops smaller of the widest you have,
and choosing your speed and/or the power of your light sources consequently.
...
1
I would like to add that unlike a traditional DSLR, the mirror in an SLT is not essentual to the operation of the camera. It can be removed in a few seconds and carefully stored in many small compact flash card cases. The camera will operate without a complaint in manual mode. The contrast based manual focus assist will still function. The preview in ...
1
You covered most of the advantages that SLT cameras enjoy over DSLRs, but there are a few other differences that give the traditional DSLR an advantage as well.
With an SLT camera, 100% of the light entering the light box never reaches the sensor. In brighter conditions this loss is fairly minimal, but in very low light conditions it can mean the ...
1
When spot metering on a white area you should set your EC to approx +2 (or, in manual mode, get the meter to show about +2)
This is obvious when you think about it in manual mode - white is brighter than 18% so the meter should show the scene it too bright.
Or, another way to think about it, without EC snow will be medium gray, you want to tell the camera ...
1
The entire "EV" system is designed to remove the need to do real calculation while shooting. A change of one stop in EV compensation means that one of the exposure factors — aperture, shutter, or ISO — will be doubled (to let in more light, for positive EV adjustments) or halved (do darken the exposure with a negative EV adjustment).
For shutter and ISO, ...
1
As the other answers say, it depends on what you're metering. What you want is for the white areas to look white: not so bright that they clip, but not so dark that they look gray either.
Thus, if you're spot metering on the white object itself, you should adjust the exposure up to make it look white, not medium gray. However, if you're metering on a dark ...
1
White/black, bright/dark, same thing to the camera.
If shooting in Manual, I'll use the spot metering mode to meter a bright part of the scene, and check it's more than +1 (or 2 as other have said), then i'll meter on the darkest part and ensure that's negative enough.
Then I have a rough idea that it's all covered-for and take the photo.
Otherwise, if ...
Only top voted, non community-wiki answers of a minimum length are eligible
