Alley in Pisa, Italy

by Lars Kotthoff

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Three things: Film is relatively lenient, and exposure variations are handled in the printing. The lens has a relatively small fixed aperture and focus is set at a reasonable distance to get a lot of depth of field. Finally, prints from these things are usually 4×6, and not subjected to a high degree of scrutiny — we basically expect them to be relatively ...


In the immortal words of the late National Geographic photo editor Bob Gilka, "Kid, if you want to be a better photographer, you're going to have to stand in front of more interesting stuff." That said, welcome to the sometimes not-so-wonderful world of the commercial/industrial photographer. As often as not, making a dramatic, exciting picture of something ...


You need to shoot at either sunrise or set (sunset is generally warmer in tone), when the sun is very low in the sky. Shoot with the sun behind the model (taking care not to look directly at it if possible). As you are shooting into the sun, you need some light source to light the front of your model: this could either be a diffused flash or a reflector. As ...


I say for purely evaluating quality of a photograph exposure is the only measure. Oh... and resolution. But without considering the subject this can get silly... I can make a perfectly exposed image of a pitch black night sky or I could create a portrait with beautiful bokeh that completely covers my subjects face. So, for viewer enjoyment (if you want ...


You can't really rank them in any meaningful way because each photo is different and will have a different ranking. That being said, the ones I can think of off hand are: composition, good exposure, global contrast, local contrast, sharpness, saturation, depth of field, color balance, and noise.


There's a bit of post production going on in that image that is probably clouding things somewhat. If you look at the area at the top of the image it's clearly been blown out (overexposed) and then brought back from pure white to a dirty grey pink colour. This says to me two things - the contrast of the image has been lowered so that the blacks and whites ...


Taking a look at page 78 of the manual as far as I can tell your camera does not have any option to extend beyond 8 seconds in camera. I also don't see an option for a remote control or shutter release that would give that ability. You could(and should) stack multiple 8 second exposures in post processing though. Take a look at this existing question: How ...


They simply mean that when using a higher ISO, you can use a higher shutter speed, smaller aperture, or both. There is no such thing as "reduced exposure parameters." It seems like you don't have a good grasp of exposure. There's a good primer at


This question is an enormous can of worms, in a good way. Of course, different people will have different understandings of what makes a "good" photograph. But this judgement will be based on the specific knowledge the person has, cultural expectations, and where the judgement is located historically. A "wedding" photographer and an art historian will have ...


There is an article on strobist that goes over shooting a CFL bulb. The author forgoes HDR and the like and just uses speedlights. If you don't have access to strobes and are only using continuous lighting, then you can still balance the CFL with your other lighting; simply set your camera up for a longer exposure (stopping down the lens, low iso, and low ...


While the specifics are somewhat brand-dependent, this question has essentially been answered already in one of your follow-up questions. Start with the following assumptions: There is no magic involved; everything that happens will be as simple as it possibly can be and still work; The system is not and cannot be foolproof; any sufficiently advanced fool ...

1 Try This. Because phone camera is no aperture, so not really long exposure Although not a true long exposure, but the effect is very similar

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