Nidelva river through Trondheim Norway

Nidelva river through Trondheim Norway
by Saaru Lindestokke                

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19

A digital sensor isn't really best described as "reading data". A much better way to describe it is "collecting photons" that are then converted into data by measuring the microscopic electrical charges they produce once the collection period is over. They do not have the capability to continuously record the changing state of each pixel well as they collect ...


11

We already have some of the technology for this. Our term for remembering the sensor readings at each exposure point is "video", and what you are asking for is reconstruction of an optimal still image from multiple video frames. For an overview of Microsoft Research work on this, start here: ...


10

If you're shooting RAW, you may have a little (or alot on some newer sensors) of wiggle room with your exposure. But, how your camera metered to measure the light to expose the scene in camera doesn't mean ANYTHING after you take the picture. Spot metering is just how the light meter in your camera thinks it needs to expose the current scene (and for spot ...


9

The original question is based on incorrect assumption (about digital sensor not changing state during the exposure) but the concept is related to the Quanta Image Sensor (QIS) idea researched by Eric Fossum. http://engineering.dartmouth.edu/research/advanced-image-sensors-and-camera-systems/ The QIS is a revolutionary change in the way we collect ...


9

You are not actually adding light, you are simply enhancing what little light you gathered. With a JPEG, "stretching" or "pushing" and "attenuating" are all done in the camera, and those enhancements are baked into the JPEG file, which is then lossy compressed and stored in a low precision format (8-bpc, 0-255). With a RAW image, you are storing the ...


8

There's only one exposure level (ie: amount of light) per picture; spot metering just means that the "target" level is based off of a particular area rather than the average of the whole frame (or some fancier means such as matrix). Another means of setting the exposure level is through your manual controls (shutter, aperture, ISO). If you're changing your ...


7

Just perform regular post-processing. For reference, here is your first picture with all the boarder fluff stripped off: Simply making the darkest spot black and the lightest white fixes a lot: The snow looks a little yellowish, so here I'm using one area of the snow that looks like it should be white as the white balance reference. I also brought ...


7

You don't mention if you shot in RAW or JPEG but if it's the former you'll have a lot more latitude in trying to rescue them. If you did shoot RAW, open your files in Photoshop Camera Raw and pull the Recovery slider all the way up to 100. That will show you how far Photoshop is able to rectify the blown highlights from your RAW data. (Unfortunately if you ...


7

There is nothing special or magical in RAW files. When it comes to exposure and balance, RAW files just store more information about colors, than JPEG files do. Either way, these colors consist of Red, Green, and Blue values and by manipulating these values you can always adjust white balance or exposure, regardless of the file type... in the ideal world. ...


6

Exposure correction is using a single image to do something like HDR, but not true HDR. The reason is that you do not have the same dynamic range as three images provides. A true HDR will utilize multiple images, and have much more detail than a single image...meaning you will be able to see many more objects from the shadows of a single image, and you will ...


6

The terms push and pull are still relevant in the sense that they are still used and understood by many enthusiast photographers. But they are probably not as common as they once were. New terms, such as expose to the right describe the same concept using different words. If you underexpose when taking the shot, then you push the exposure in editing to ...


5

What you call originals are the preview jpegs created in-camera and attached to the raw file. These are the images that will have Auto Lighting Optimizer applied. Lightroom displays these preview thumbnails while it is waiting for your computer to generate a high quality preview of the raw file based on the current Lr settings. Once your computer has ...


5

I'm not sure why you awarded that answer. It's absolutely fixable easily with aperture. I've spent less than 5 minutes on this and already got decent result. This is your exposure -2EV: This is what I got to (different from above but it's even better imo): All I did was brush in levels set to: Followed by setting recovery to 0.14 (because some ...


4

In your case you are adding artificial lighting into the mix and that seems to be where the vast majority of the flickering is coming from. Some light sources powered by alternating current can vary by more than a stop between the peak and the trough of their AC cycle. And since metering is done at a different instant than exposure, a conventional meter ...


4

Most definitely not a stupid question: I actually wondered the same thing when I first got into shooting raw. Before you can really understand what's happening when you adjust exposure in software, you first need to know what a digital camera's sensor and electronics do when you take a photo: count photons. Each pixel of the sensor essentially records the ...


3

Light fall-off depends on a particular lens at a certain aperture and for some focal-length. There are a number of cameras which can do this but they must be able to recognize the lens. This is a profile based approach and can usually be enabled some cameras with electronic lens mounts. A few other cameras allow to apply an amount of compensation, probably ...


3

Your camera has the ability to manually set the white balance. Under most circumstances, the auto white balance feature works fine, but since it's very likely you're shooting JPEG, correction after the fact when it does get it wrong is probably going to degrade your image quality a bit. at any rate, page 90 of the English version of the manual for your ...


3

You can just test it for yourself: Find a location near your house where you can see both bright sky and deep shadows. Take the 3 bracketed pictures. Make two HDR images, one with the bracketed pictures and one with the images generated from just the middle image raw file This will tell you if the single exposure HDR is good enough with your specific ...


3

The short answer is: It depends entirely on your ability to expose one photo correctly for the environments you'll be shooting. If you can, go with it HDR, if the environments truly do have more dynamic range than your camera can handle, go with bracketing. The longer answer is not so clear - bracketing will generally give you more detail than just one ...


2

What you want is to decrease the amount of light coming off your backdrop so that the backdrop itself is bright enough to appear the way you want it (presumably to clip your sensor so that you get a pure white look) but not bright enough to significantly light up / overexpose your model itself with reflected light. In your example photo, it looks like ...


2

I checked my D7000 and set it up the same way you did - the flash is adjusted - according to the image info in playback mode when I press down. I see +/-1 in the info against flash bias but my aperture is hasnt changed (maybe my cam dosnt think it needs to at these settings) It is the flash that is causing the brightness change - Try dialing in the same ...


2

Exposure, as the name suggests, adjusts the overall exposure, just as if you had exposed the image a little more, or a little less, from the start. So if you move the exposure slider to the right, you add exposure across the entire histogram, shadows and highlights. You basically move the entire histogram to the right. With levels, you set a black, white, ...


2

You can darken parts of an image in Photoshop by adding adjustment layers and then using the mask to show or hide parts of each adjustment layer. Here is a tutorial for adding an adjustment layer: http://psd.tutsplus.com/articles/techniques/a-basic-guide-to-photoshop-cs4-adjustment-layers/ and here is basic info about adjustment layers: ...


2

Some cameras now have lens correction features built in, but many do not. And sometimes those corrections extend to light fall off, but not always. For example, the Pentax K-5ii and a few prior models correct for distortion and lateral chromatic aberration. The K-3 adds "Peripheral Illumination" to correct light falloff in the corners. More on this in the ...


2

Film physically changes over the period of time it's exposed. A digital sensor, though, doesn't; it's just reading data. That really depends on the type of sensor. The kind of CMOS sensors that are used in today's DSLR's accumulate an electrical charge in each pixel over time, so they do, in fact, change over time much like film does. If they didn't ...


1

I have experienced the same problem with flickering timelapse videos and I have found that for some scenarios the temporal filter offered by Virtualdub can greatly help. This filter looks for unnatural changes between frames as the video plays and tries to eliminate them. It has a strength setting that you can use to try a lighter approach first. Virtualdub ...


1

You might also try "place and fall" as an exposure technique. In traditional photography this usually means exposing for your shadows and letting the midtones and hightlights fall accordingly. With digital, overexposure is more of a problem than under so you can "place" the brightest part of your scene. For instance: in manual mode spotmeter the brightest ...


1

For a shot like this, I would either use evaluative metering and dial in an EC to adjust for any issue the sky provided or I'd do spot metering on the outer leaves of the tree. As it is currently, it looks like it metered too much on the shadows and over exposed slightly, leading to a weak black point and wasted dynamic range in an already very wide dynamic ...



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