Serene Life

by garik

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17

Lenses with the aperture ring were originally designed for older SLR's which did not control aperture via the camera body. Newer SLRs and DSLR control aperture via the body, so these older lenses must be stopped all the way down in order to be used. Your lens is working as it should, and is not defective. To select aperture using your camera, ensure the ...


12

What you are trying to construct is a parallel motion panorama. Its been on my TODO List to do so far a while but I have not done it myself yet. Microsoft ICE supports this. It is the only software which I know of to do automatic stitching of parallel motion panoramas. You will find that option under 'Camera Motion' below and to the left of the preview ...


8

When you shoot a panorama by only rotating the camera then you're simulating the effect of a wider field of view lens (even if you use a non-standard projection). If you move the camera then what you're trying to produce has no equivialent in reality, i.e. its not a 2D projection of a 3D scene like most photographs, it's something else all together! Because ...


8

In the example here, I think you're actually at the limits of the depth of field, and the rear petals are actually out of focus -- I say this as the foreground petals don't exhibit the same effect, and the focus seems to be on the trumpet of the daffodil. A narrow aperture when shooting will increase the depth of field, and increase the area that is ...


5

It's called spherical aberration. As mattdm says, more complex lenses (especially superzooms) need more compromises than e.g. simple compound primes so they often show more defects. If you want 'better' bokeh you'll have to use a different lens. Personally I don't mind that effect much but the point is that it's intrinsic to your lens.


5

This can come up for a variety of different reasons, typically it happens after the camera is dropped. If the camera was dropped, compressed in your luggage too tight, gathered a grain of sand while on the beach, or had a similar occurrence, you can find yourself with this error message. These cameras are mostly made of plastic, and it can even happen ...


5

I've just got my camera back from repair and this was apparently caused by water damage to the DC-DC board, an expensive repair but I hope that my camera will now work well for some time to come! I've not yet worked out how the water got in - but I'm suspecting a damp camera bag after a seaside shoot.


4

This sort of thing shouldn't be common, and may be the sign of the contacts being at the extremes of "normal" tolerances, causing the communication issues between the lens and the body. If you don't have the same problems with other lenses, and the Tamron is new; it may be worth going back to the dealer and getting them to test the lens on some other bodies ...


4

Lens errors are fairly common. Usually it's sand or grit interfering with the lens extension mechanism. Or the camera's been dropped with the lens extended. Or the camera has been powered on, but the lens had been blocked preventing its extension. I have written a blog post about some things that you can do to try to correct it. They only seem to work for ...


4

There is no problem. Its because the lens is "non G" version. The non-G lens have a depth-of-field control. But newer cameras require F22 because the camera controls the depth-of-field. Great lens by the way. Regards Sigersted


4

There is a tab on the card that locks it from being written. Make sure that's not in the wrong position. Try moving it out of the lock position and see if it then works. Otherwise try formatting it in camera, and if it won't format, try formatting the card on your computer using a card reader.


4

Be sure you are selecting the Single shooting option in the Drive mode setting rather than the One-Shot AF option in the AF mode setting. When the AF mode is set to One Shot, the camera can still fire continuously. With One Shot AF once focus is achieved the focus will lock until the shutter is released or the half-press is released.


4

No, you don't need to be nervous yet. You may need either an updated version of Adobe Camera Raw or if an up-to-date enough version isn't available for your camera, then you may have to use Nikon's RAW tools (ViewNX) to do the initial adjustments to your photos. Once you get the photo looking the way you want from the RAW handling software, you can export ...


3

A few things to try: Try a second battery Try a second body Try OEM and third party batteries Accept the warning message about the lack of communication and try to use the battery anyways Try pulling the battery out and reseating it at least a few times Try removing the tiny watch style battery as well as removing the regular battery at the same time. This ...


3

This sort of thing is not uncommon. It sounds like a communication failure between the camera/lens which is often resolved by cleaning the contacts. This may help in your case, however since you seem to be able to cause the problem by moving the lens slightly the problem may be minor damage to the lens or mount. I'm afraid there no way to tell if it's the ...


3

There is a blog post that covers a few different things to try if you see Error 99. Other than having the lens or body serviced, it seems that you can: Remove the battery and card, then wait 20 min (long enough for the residual charges to completely drain) and try with a fresh battery. clean the lens contacts


3

The problem seems to be that I set up my phone to encrypt my SD card and when I pulled files to my PC, they came off still encrypted. A fuller discussion of this issue can be found on Android Enthusiasts Stack Exchange.


3

This error usually show up when there is faulty connection between camera and lens. This fault is because of those copper connections on camera or lens or both. Almost all Canon's camera shows this error in similar conditions. Have a look, http://kpixel.com/wp/2011/05/canon-eos-error-01-err01-the-worst-case-scenario/ ...


3

According to Adobe, the D7000 compatible raw converter doesn't work on versions of Photoshop earlier than CS5.


2

No, it's definitely the lens. I've had this exact same problem with the 20D and a 17-85. In order to resolve it, I sent the lens in to canon. You can check if the electrical contacts on the lens and ensure there is no corrosion (very unlikely).


2

This probably isn't the answer that you want to hear, but it sounds like it might be, as they say in technical terms, busted. Best to get it off to Nikon's repair folks.


2

See my answer here. TL;DR: the D70s can't read the aperture from the lens ring, it needs to have the aperture locked in a known setting so the body can set the aperture.


2

Well, if you have already cleaned the contacts (how have you cleaned them? I would have adviced ethanol on a smooth and clean material...), you have almost no choice left: you need to bring your camera body and optics back to the shop you bought them to or to refer to the Nikon customers service. Sorry...


2

Canon's PhotoStitch has two stitching modes - Panning and Parallel. It even factors in the focal length your frames were captured with. If you shoot with a Canon, you should have the software in the Canon Utilities disk. Whatever software you use, however, try shooting with the longest focal length to eliminate geometry distortions. It becomes a tradeoff ...


2

I'm not sure this is a perfect solution, but I'd give Hugin a try. One of the features I love about Hugin is the ability to define straight lines that extend across photos. This gives the software an extra clue about what should end up looking straight once the panorama is assembled. I've never tried making a horizontal movement panorama like this, but ...


2

If you only have the one camera and one card, it's going to be hard to determine which is the problem. As commenters have suggested, the easiest way to troubleshoot such a situation is to: try the memory card in another camera try another memory card in this camera With respect to the "control panel light" staying on, I'm not sure what you mean by ...


2

Try another lens. In some cases, this can be a problem with the lens itself. I had a 17-85mm lens show this problem a while back -- it turned out to be a ribbon cable buried deep in the lens that had started to pinch at some zoom positions.



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