Sunset in Kruger

by MrFrench

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0

Things that's catch you out, from recent experience and echoing some of the above. As all the photographic setting's side has been pretty much covered... This is primarily assuming your going to be shooting somewhere quite cold and a remote dark location. Take a second camera! Beg, Borrow, Hire a second camera, if anything like me you travel thousands of ...


0

Keep the T3i and invest in lenses and a solid tripod. And maybe filters. And shoot RAW so that you can have access to full dynamic range for post processing. The free Canon software is useful, though not the simplest. The T3i already has LiveView, which will allow for generally better (imho) pictures through slower composition and contrast auto-focus. I ...


1

Most folks will advise that you get glass before a new body. Part of this is for simple financial reasons. A good lens tends to hold value better and for longer than a digital body. dSLR bodies, like all digital electronics, tend to depreciate rapidly, even when they're new. And you tend to flip through them at roughly the same rate you'd flip through ...


2

So thinking logically about your question, both the Canon T3i and the 70D are both APS-C cameras and 18mp against the 20mp of the 70D means there's nothing in it, 5472 x 3648 70D against 5184 x 3456 T3i(aka 600D) image resolution. Both cameras are equally capable of taking an excellent quality photograph! After all it's the person behind the camera that ...


3

Without the 70D, you cannot print that image that little bit larger. Without the 10-18mm, you cannot get that image at all. Remember: This does not hold true in general. The 70D might as well be the key equipment required to get a certain shot, but that shot will not be a landscape shot.


0

I would say the new Olympus OM-D EM-5 Mark II. It is fully weather sealed, and you can get the PRO weathersealed lenses for it too. It does everything that you would expect, including in camera HDR and bracketing. Though I don't understand your flooding issue with the AW1, you're asking rugged, not waterproof. For the Olympus cameras you can get underwater ...


-3

Please ignore comments which suggest the Sigma 18-300 is not up to the job. I have a Nikon D3200 and bought this lens because I was very unhappy with the Nikon 18-105 vr. The Sigma is superb. Sharpness, contrast, pop, fantastic range. I am finally getting results I had always expected from 24 million pixels. This lens gets 5 stars from me. I cannot find a ...


1

No digital cameras use the Contax/Yashica mount directly (Kyocera never got into the dSLR game, despite owning the mount system), but with adapters, they can be used on a variety of digital SLR and mirrorless bodies, with a few caveats. All mirrorless bodies (Sony E-mount/NEX, Fuji X, Samsung NX, micro four-thirds, etc.) can easily adapt C/Y lenses with ...


0

Sony Mirrorless FF cameras (A7 series) are the best for you. You just need a c/y-emount adaptor and you are good to go.


1

As Mattdm says in the comments, any DSLR will work. If you want to take hight quality pictures of buildings with city lights, you'll end up having to invest quite a lot in post processing skills to get nice high dynamic range (HDR) pictures where the city lights are not overexposed and yet the dark areas are not underexposed. You may not care about that ...


0

I think you fell lost in the transition to digital. I'm telling this becouse you are asking about a camera for portrait, fashion, and as you photographed that before you should remember that the main feature there is the lens and ilumination. You used before black and white, negatives or slides. That dosen't matter anymore. The lens and ilumination does. ...


0

You didn't mention whether your camera is a DSLR or a compact camera, but if it's a DSLR with live view and a flip-out or articulating LCD panel, then there's an easy way, which I use all the time these days as my knees are too challenged to get down low very often. Mount the camera on a tripod or monopod set to the height you need, turn on live view and ...


0

As others have pointed out, any EF lens should work on modern EOS digital SLR's. One thing to keep in mind, though, is that they will only look about the same on Full Frame digital SLR's, e.g. 1D, 5D or 6D series, because the sensor in those cameras is similar in size to the size of film exposed in a 35mm film camera. On other cameras, "APS-C" or "crop ...


5

Since Canon introduced the EOS system in 1987, all EOS EF mount lenses will work on all EOS EF (full frame, APS-H) or EF-S (APS-C) mount bodies. This means they will be functional in terms of automatic metering and auto focus. What field of view each lens will yield on a digital body depends on the size of that camera's sensor. For a closer look at that ...


3

Those are all Canon EF mount lenses. They will work with any current Canon DSLR, but are so old you may desire newer versions with newer technology.


0

Another option is to use a tilt-shift lens. Canon makes good ones, the Nikon ones aren't so great (I'm a Nikon user). This will enable you to take a photograph with the camera at eye height standing up with no converging vertical lines. See https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tilt%E2%80%93shift_photography


2

To keep the sky from blowing out you don't want any old ND filter, you want a graduated ND filter (GND). This is a filter that only darkens part of the scene, in this case the sky. The darker areas beneath the sky are not darkened so that details are still visible. The advantage of square GND filters is that you can adjust them in the holder to match the ...


0

Polarizer will darken the sky and make isolated clouds look more dramatic. It is a good filter to have in general. Use it with moderation, though. It may make the blue sky very dark when shot on a sandy beach in direct sunlight. If you plan to get close to the sea water, grab a UV or "protective" filter as well for protection from salty ocean spray. Get ...


2

Usually at the beach, a polarized filter is helpful, to cut down on unwanted reflections. In clear water it aids in being able to see to the bottom was well. Since you are in bright sunlight, the reduced EV from this filter does not impact your shots much. To reduce washed out sky, you can try a graduated ND filter. If you want 'silky water shots' in ...


2

You can improve the perspective by simply standing back and zooming in. The further back you can go the closer to the correct perspective you'll get. You can then correct it further in software if need be. You can also further improve the perspective by positioning the subject off-centre in the frame. You want it below the centre of the frame if you're ...


2

You mention that you use "a regular digital camera", which a few Google searches suggest means point-and-shoot. I hope I will not sound offensive, but maybe a flip screen camera could get the job done? Of course the focus/etc will not be as great as with a DSLR, but if you use a regular digital camera in the first place, then it should be OK. Lower your ...


7

You can do perspective correction in post. This emulates the effect of tilt-shift lenses. Not all photo manipulation programs have this capability. I often even prefer perspective correction over changing the camera's position, because it allows me to make straight lines parallel while still keeping the angle of the photo that I want. For instance, you ...


3

The Canon 70d has built-in WiFi that you can use to control the camera from a smartphone or tablet, via an app. You can mount the camera on a low tripod (or a taller tripod with an inverted centre column), see what it's pointing at in real time on your phone/tablet and control the shutter from it, too. You'd still have to bend down to position the camera, ...


7

Many tripods allow you to invert the center column, putting the camera below where the legs meet. You can mount the camera at the proper height this way, then move the tripod around until you get the view you want.


0

How about using something like a Walkstool and a short tripod? http://www.walkstool.com/comfort Does your digital camera have an articulating screen? You could use it like a waist-level finder.


6

Mount your camera on a low tripod and tether your camera to a laptop. You would then preview on the laptop before remotely triggering the shutter and capture the image through software like Aperture or Lightroom. It's more stuff to lug around but you won't need to squat long to compose and capture.


0

A company called Lensband has a solution for zoom creep, a silicone band that fits the barrel of the zoom lens.


2

In a day where people are taking unbelievably good photos with their phones and even basic entry level cameras have capabilities and qualities we would have killed for a decade ago and which blow away almost all of the cameras of the film era, it's hard to say that any camera today sucks. Some have better capabilities than others, some have functionality ...


0

No and it will always help. The better the lens, the better image-quality reaches the sensor and this is more important than ever because cameras have such high-resolution. What was good enough for a mid-range DSLR 5 years just does not cut it anymore. A good lens will be sharper from wide-open so you will be able to shoot at lower ISO and faster ...


2

Disregarding film and sensor type for a moment, the captured image quality is only as good as the lens the light passes through. So, in this respect, putting expensive glass on a cheap body will allow the camera to give its best. You lens is literally a window on the world, and no processing can recover detail lost by a basic lens on an expensive body. ...


0

I just went through this same question and found some answers by testing several wide angle lenses (including the Rokinon). Result was that the new Tamron SP 15-30mm was the best all around choice, albeit at a higher cost. The Rokinon 14mm also faired well. See the details here: http://www.ronbrunsvold.com/tools/wide-angle-lenses-for-night.html



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