New answers tagged equipment-recommendation
1
I know all about digital frames and there are some really good ones out there. I have a 10" Toshiba that has been running 24 hours a day for 5 years now. I have a couple of Ceivas to send pictures either by wi-fi or over the phone and even a Kodak Pulse (Kodak doesn't support them but the Kodak Pulse website is still going strong to send pictures through ...
0
Have to agree with most of the above. Thinking it was useless in the new digital age, I sold, regretted it, and then rebought an f/2.8 55mm macro Vivitar lens. Not particularly for the macro, but in general use it is fantastic. Don't know how it compares to the Nikkor 55mm . I must have first bought the original one 30+ yrs back, and glad now that I saw ...
6
The problem with UV photography is that standard optical glass filters out UV light, so lens designers have to turn to more exotic formulations such as phosphate glass, or other materials such as quartz. This fact combined with the very low production volumes are not a good recipe for cheap lenses.
I can't answer with a hundred percent certainty, but the ...
2
Here's the dilemma for someone in your situation: Upgrading the camera will have much less of an impact than it could when still using your current lens, yet upgrading the lens when still using your 350D will limit the improvement as well. I think the lens needs the improvement first, and here is why:
Lenses with more than a 3X ratio between the shortest ...
19
Digital picture frames typically suffer from:
Odd aspect ratios for photos. While some cameras shoot 16:9 or 4:3 aspect ratios, a 3:2 is universal for photography. What the means is that you either crop to it or have black bars on screen.
Most are low resolution. 1024x768? That's pretty small and they'll put that on a 15" or larger frame. Similar to aspect ...
1
Full frame sensors have about twice the surface area as APS-C sensors, which, at the same technology level, gives about a one-stop advantage. The current generation of sensors is very good, and at higher ISOs will have much more than a two-stop advantage over a seven-year-old model.
That is, full-frame will have a real advantage, but it's not necessarily ...
5
As John points out in the comments - for modern SLRs, ISO1600 is not that much of a problem.
A lot has happened since 2006 - cameras, such as all technology, evolve.
Now I also think sales advice per se is not generally well liked here, so I will try to be general on the topic of upgrading:
The problem: An old camera no longer suits the user's need, what ...
4
For only $50 difference getting the EF 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS II with your T3i is a no-brainer. If you don't need it, you can sell it for a quick profit. The going rate for that lens used is about $80-100.
But if you are, as you say, new to the scene you need this lens if the only other option is a 50mm prime on a 1.6x crop body. This is because on a ...
1
Skipping the kit lens is a smart move. The focal range is similar to point and shoots and cellphones which is really convenient, but the kit lens will make you disappointed at the DSLR as it will feel exactly like a point and shoot, you could have gotten cheaper.
Primes are really good to get a real DSLR feel, where you can make thin DOF, shoot indoors ...
0
Every lens has advantages and disadvantages.
Advantages of the 50mm f/1.8 compared to the 18-55:
Great optical quality
It will give you much more depth of field control
Disadvantages:
The autofocus is painfully slow
It's a fixed focal length (it takes more time to move yourself than to zoom)
50mm on a crop sensor is a little too tight, taking a group ...
2
I have a clone of that scope. Webcam is the way to go for bright objects. You'll want a cam that can do subframes to limit data to just the area of interest. Another feature would be one that polls the whole ccd at once, rather than one that does interlacing. Several are reasonably priced and appear on the second hand market.
Bright objects like the ...
4
What you want to do is head over to cloudynights.com, get an account, and start reading FAQs.
A webcam isn't going to cut for DSO (deep space objects) but a decent DSLR will. However, without removing the infrared filter from your DSLR you'll not get the deep reds that you're used to seeing in other astrophotography photos. (See Happ Griffin's page for ...
1
It all depends on the quality you want to achieve. The best quality is going to be achieved with a DSLR with a mount for your telescope. A good mount should basically turn your telescope in to a giant lens for your DSLR. You can then also do things like long exposure photography to see things that normally wouldn't be visible and the quality will be MUCH ...
2
I've got Zeikos grips for both my 5DII and 7D. They work fine. Sometimes I have to wiggle the right hand battery in the one for the 7D to get the camera to see it. Once the battery is seated, the camera sees it, and the door to the battery compartment is closed I've never had it stop being recognized until the battery is removes and reinserted. The build ...
0
You have some clear points of what you need for your new lens:
Not so expensive
General purpose shooting
Macro
Acceptable quality
It's good as you can clear out your need before buying a lens, I just want to help with a few more things:
The Sigma 17-70mm has .37x maximum magnification, as reviewed as best-in-class for macro. (with other similar zoom ...
1
If you want to do macro work with you 430 flash, you can search for some in BH Photo. You can find many types of bracket, from small L shape, to multiple holding plate there. But if you want a versatile and small flash for macro work, I suggest the Macro Ring, like Macro Ring Lite MR-14EX of Canon.
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That would depend on whether you have the newer "Rx" model flashes (in which case you'd just need Bowens' Pulsar TX transmitter, since the receiver is built into the flashes) or the older standard Gemini 200s. If you have the older ones, then any decent radio trigger (preferably one that has a PC or miniplug terminal) will do the trick. Among the suitable ...
1
It took me a while to realize what I think you're asking... If I might, I believe that you want to know if the macro designation is going to effect the lens for general purpose shooting and the answer to that is no.
A macro lens, as Sigma is using it with this one, allows for closer focussing (rather than magnification). For example, that Sigma lens allows ...
-1
Bokeh quality maybe, as it directly affects portraits.
The 17-70mm is a general lens but it'll be f4 when you're at 70mm. So you can't separate your subject from background. And imo, you'll want to use 50mm instead.
3
Most close-up lenses are basically toys, they tend to have really bad optics and as such produce low quality images.
If you want to do cheap macro photography there are other better options:
Extension tubes - those are tubes that move your lens away from the sensor, this let the lens focus closer and achieve higher magnification, extension tubes don't ...
0
May I suggest to you to buy a Macro lens? As you don't really use autofocus in macro you can also find great offer in vintage lenses on ebay (give a look, for exemple, at the Contax Macroplanar 60mm which can be mounted on Canon body with a adapter ring)
1
I found a local camera store -- Kenmore Camera of Kenmore, WA -- that carries both Think Tank and Gura Gear bags. They already had the Urban Disguise 50 and 60 in stock, and ordered a Chobe so that I could compare them all.
Both bags met most of my criteria: they have padded camera sections, room for camera accessories, room for my laptop and accessories, ...
0
I say you push the ISO up to 3200, open up that aperture to five six, or however wide it can go, and slow the shutter down to, maybe, 1/10. Okay maybe not 3200. But somewhere up there. I dunno. Experiment. Then go black and white. But that might be better for the 70mm.
6
I think a few of the existing resources on this website will already answer most of your questions. For example:
Will Cokin-Z and HiTech 100mmx150mm filters fit on a Lee Holder?
What is the highest quality graduated neutral density filter?
Marumi ND2-400 Variable ND Filter Review
What ND filter would you recommend?
How do Cokin and Lee filter systems ...
0
I would expect so. I have a D40 that I use to photograph dimly and/or randomly lit concerts, and while I have to put forth some effort, I get some good shots. The D70 could be considered a step up, and if you're shooting outdoors, I think you will be fine.
2
Usually when a bag does not have its own rain cover it is problematic to find a rain cover that fits properly. I would suggest to find a similar bag (your criteria) that has a rain cover included.
2
Would this camera be adequate for taken pics of my kids on the soccer/baseball/track fields?
Yes, absolutely. When it was first released it was the only (Nikon) camera digital available to a great many people (certainly enthusiasts and amateurs doing exactly the things you want to do.)
Do you think this would camera would work?
Oh yes, I still carry mine ...
4
AT 400mm, where you would use the EF 100-400mm f/4-5.6L the most, the EF 400mm f/5.6 is noticeably sharper, especially at mid frame and on the edges. It also costs about $300 less. You give up Image Stabilization (IS) and the ability to zoom out to 100mm.
For birding and wildlife, IS is not a huge consideration because you're going to need to use fairly ...
2
The 100-400 is a good lens to get started with and in your budget.
I've talked about this configuration in the past -- try here: What size lens is recommended for flying bird photography?
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It'll be great for daytime outdoor sporting events.
It won't be as good for night-time or indoor sporting events. The reason for this is that for sports you ideally want fast shutter speed of 1/500s or better in order to freeze the motion. Indoors, or under lights, you won't get that with that zoom lens.
Flash doesn't help at sporting events because the ...
1
Yes, it will work, and should be significantly better than a point and shoot. The 70-300mm lens is not a great lens, but if you are shooting at a fast shutter speed in sunny conditions, it should be fast enough to capture sports. The 70-300mm isn't going to be very successful when the light is poor, or for indoor sports. I think for $200 that's not bad ...
0
This should help - it's an article written by National Geographic's David Doubilet all about getting split shots.
1
The most basic protection can be obtained with a Camera Armor. It has been a while since I've seen one but it lets you use the camera in its case directly.
Otherwise, you are probably looking for a soft-case. Op/Tech makes some. One of the larger ones is needed for the 7D but I am not sure it will fit with the 18-200mm lens.
You should use your own camera ...
1
The Nikkor 70-300mm F/4.5-5.6G will deliver the most sharpness and least vignetting. It stands out most from the other lenses and exhibits less optical distortion.
The Sigma 70-300mm and Tamron 70-300mm are pretty soft and similar in performance except that Tamron vignettes less. While the Nikkor 55-200mm F/4-5.5G is sharper than both third-party models, it ...
0
Used 16-85mm VR lens
SB 600
Used B+W Polarizer filter
Spare Battery
With this outfit you can go for a year, produce excellent pictures, and stop worrying about equipment.
3
How to choose a compact under $400 today?
The answer: Don't. Either use your own smartphone, or buy an iPod Touch.
The camera will hardly ever be taken anywhere. Pictures from it will sit unwatched.
The current iPod touch has a 5mp camera (possibly an update soon will offer even more). It has a ton of photography apps that will make it a tool useful to ...
1
The same equipment that is used for underwater photography will work. You simply put a portion of the shutter above and a portion of the shutter below. You can refine it a little more in post if you want by taking one photo above, one below and one in between (that way you can independently adjust the white balancing between the top and bottom when taking ...
0
You can use the old pentax lenses, if you just remove the auto stop down lever. You can do it the easy way (mutilate it) or open the back and unscrew it for later reassembly.
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Look for something that has a track record and available parts/accessories. Retail support would be nice, but with the right vendor you don't necessarily need to see it in brick-and-mortar stores. Saving money is nice and all, but you don't want to have to buy them again in six months.
If you're in North America, there's probably no better choice than Paul ...
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