New answers tagged equipment-protection
I am going lapland for 3 days next week and have been advised the camera lens will moist over during during temperatures -3 to -30 and whilst I have protected my lens by fitting a filter. I therefore raise the question how can I overcome this problem I have a Canon EOS 60D camera together with Canon lend. Thanks and regards Paul Todd
The manual for my camera (a Pentax K100D) states that you should turn the camera off to prevent possible damage to the autofocus motor: if you bump the shutter-release button while changing the lens, it's possible that the now-exposed autofocus drive shaft will catch on something.
I think the main reason is to "park" (hard disk terminology) the components. e.g. VC/IS elements can by their nature move around. When you power the camera off, those elements are "parked". I'm pretty certain I've read in manuals/leaflets (yes it's a unsavoury habit I've picked up, I do read manuals..) that come with lenses. This may also be true with focus ...
This is entirely too variable to give a meaningful answer to. Higher quality lenses will last longer under the same usage criteria. But an abused high quality lens won't last as long as a well cared for cheap lens. (Although I suppose some might argue that many cheap lenses effectively come broken from the factory.) Additionally, lenses don't just become ...
There is no approximate durability. It depends on many factors. If durability is important to you, beyond proper care I would recommend a Canon L series lens that is weather sealed and likely is made of longer lasting materials. See this for much more information: What makes a camera 'weather sealed'? Also: What is the difference between Canon ...
-4C for 4 hours, do not worry at all just do it. No warming no external packs. -4 is not that cold but to be extra careful if any of your gear takes AA batteries use Lithium AAs. Your camera's Lithium battery will be fine. I was out a couple of weekends ago for 6 hours between -10C and -4C and the only thing I tried to keep warm was my fingers. No ...
I think the camera itself will enjoy the cold. I recall discussions many years ago concerning using freezing temperatures to get better quality from consumer grade sensors, and the issues to solve involved condensation and batteries. I also recall discussions about winter sports, which is almost the same as your situation. Let the camera be ambient ...
If you have a spare car battery, something like this LiPo battery warmer would be perfect (Assuming you can get one large enough for your kit) http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/__33990__Turnigy_Programmable_Lipo_Battery_Warmer_Bag_12v_DC_.html
chemical heating pouches, rubber-banned to the camera, especially the battery department. The big need is to keep the battery warm so it doesn't lose effectiveness in the cold. Better (and less of a hack) would be to use an external power source like a car battery or some larger power source because you'll likely find that the camera battery will struggle ...
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