Hot answers tagged effect
24
Increase the contrast - globally and additional local contrast in the trees and other areas
(when you say amazing sharpness I think it's a big boost in contrast that you're noticing)
Increase saturation
Warm the image - you can see the greens have gone yellow
Vignette
In addtion, looks like they've applied some "glow" to the image. You can do this by ...
20
First off, Polaroid photographs don't necessarily look like the "Polaroid effect". It depends on which Polaroid film/process you're talking about, and how the pictures were handled and stored over the years. Photographs made with the SX-70 process are probably second only to Kodachrome transparencies in dark-storage colourfastness (although they tend to have ...
16
It can be done in post-processing, of course, but that's the result of shooting a bright light source using a very small aperture (high f-number) and having a 9-bladed iris in the lens.
Different iris shapes will show different "star" patterns. This one has 18 points, which means it came from either a 9-bladed or 18-bladed iris, and since nobody makes ...
15
The effect is due to combining flash and ambient light on a moving subject. The flash illuminates the subject which then moves. The subject blocks the ambient light creating a silhouette, and then moves before the flash fires so that the image lit by the flash is offset with the silhouette, giving the hard cartoon outline effect. No photoshop required for ...
13
Looking at the shoot I noticed this scene where the photographer is holding a filter at a diagonal angle as if he was trying to catch some light.
Does this technique have a name? And what kind of effect can I hope to achieve with it?
He is purposefully reflecting light from an off-camera light source onto the lens front element to create "lens ...
13
So, here's what I got in just a few minutes using two basic tools: Curves, and Unsharp mask:
I used Gimp, but this is basic stuff any decent image editing software will have. Here's all I did. First, I used the curves tool to dramatically increase the black point, increasing shadow contrast:
Then, I pulled the curve upwards to brighten the (new) ...
13
Light Trails
This style of photography is often referred to as light trails.
Photoshop is not necessarily needed. Effects like this can be achieved on a single photograph without multiple exposures.
1. You need darkness for this style. Even though the photo may end up looking light, absolute darkness is needed do this sort of photography. Usually this ...
12
First off, don't be afraid of harder lighting. If you want detailed texture, that's where you start. That doesn't necessarily mean using a speedlight naked (although it can), but the easy-way-out umbrellas and softboxes are not the way to go about creating images like these. When you start with the right lighting, you don't need to do a whole lot in post in ...
12
Shoot with a small aperture, f22 or like. It is called diffraction.
There is a detailed answer Here
And here are some sample photos taken with Sony Alpha A35 and an old Carl Zeiss Sonnar 135mm f/3.5 lens. I choose this lens to experiment because it has six blades and has a nice octagonal aperture at f/22. And also being a lens from cold war era, it is much ...
11
If you want to use the tilt to throw things out of focus, then yes. If you want to use it to bring things into focus (using the Scheimpflug principle), then the Lensbaby optics are not what you want.
All of Lensbaby's optics are designed for special photographic effects rather than straight photography, displaying at least one "major flaw" (spherical ...
10
I use most of the Topaz Labs Photoshop Plug-in Bundle regularly, and consider it to be one of the greatest bargains available in the world of digital photography at the moment (when purchased as a bundle — and there's a fully-functioning 30-day trial so you can assess them yourself, as with most of the better plug-ins). But it is perhaps worth examining what ...
10
Those are usually called "star trails", and they come about as a result of leaving the camera's shutter open for an extended period of time. The center of the circle will be either the north or south pole, depending on which hemisphere you are in.
As often as not, though, the sky with star trails is captured separately from the foreground, and later swapped ...
9
If I understand what your asking, how to get the sun to produce a multi-pointed sunburst or star flare like that (Fraunhofer diffraction), its relatively simple: stop down your aperture to the point where it is no longer circular, but a polygonal. Using a fairly small aperture will produce a star flare around most light sources that are not too small.
The ...
9
This is achieved by what is known as panning.
To explain it simply, you basically follow your subject with your camera (in a panning motion.)
It takes quite a bit of practice to get it right, but patience and practice will pay off with great looking shots.
More information on capturing moving subjects can be found HERE.
8
I took that picture a few years ago so I don't exactly remember. My usual technique when i used to have photoshop was to start off with the auto adjusts, and then messing around with the curves with no goal in mind. I would just try random things and see which combinations I liked best. Also, for this picture I desaturated it a little bit and added a ...
8
You could try split toning (There are plenty of examples here)
This is a good article about the technique, and includes links to other sites which show describe the best approaches in the main photo-editing applications (Photoshop, Lightroom, Aperture, ...)
8
Actual sepia toning of silver/gelatin prints works by replacing some or all of the silver with a substance that doesn't react as readily to oxygen (tarnish), so it made prints last longer. It also lends a warmer (browner/yellower) tone to the image, which can be very pleasing for some subjects (particularly people, where a stark black-and-white or a ...
7
The main two things that I have found to be helpful when trying to achieve the sunburst effect are:
Stop the lens down to at least f/16. I usually start at f/22 and work my way wider if I'm not satisfied with the effect. Note that each aperture will give a slightly different sunburst effect.
Expose for the sky. Without a flash or reflector, your foreground ...
7
I've found a useful technique is to switch between the original and the edited version. By doing this even minor changes sometimes look drastic, which could work against you sometimes, but it's a perfect representation of just "how far" you've gone with the edits. You can see how true you're staying to the original photograph and how unnatural things start ...
7
This effect is called fisheye effect
You can either get this effect by using a fisheye lens or using photoshop. Try googling fisheye effect photoshop. I found there great tutorials there.
http://www.marcofolio.net/photoshop/create_a_fish_eye_lens_effect_in_photoshop.html
...
6
In considering the second image I found an example out of my own collection as an example image to illustrate my point.
Before adjustments:
After adjustments:
I think what you are looking at may have been achieved with HDR, as I did with my example images. I used Photomatix Pro with 3 source RAW files to achieve this. Outside of Photomatix, I did not ...
6
There is a tutorial for this effect here. It is for PS but you can still achieve the same look in PS. Here are the basic steps below:
Add extra canvas to your photo: Image > Canvas Size add some extra here. The amount is not really important as you will crop at the end.
Add Black Layer on top, fill with black.
Add Noise. Filter > Noise > Add Noise. Use ...
6
Based on the two sample photos you linked, I wouldn't say that is a post-processing effect. It looks like all in-camera stuff. Basically, you have the following:
Higher key (exposure pushed towards the highlights, very little in the way of shadows)
Very thin DOF
Very wide aperture
If there are any post-processing effects at all, it might only be a boost ...
6
The main effect is called "halftoning".
You can get to it in the GIMP using Filters→Distorts→Newsprint. In most other image editors, it's available through the Filter or Effects menu, and is usually labeled "Halftone". In Photoshop, for instance, it's "Filter→Sketch→Halftone Pattern...". In PaintShop Photo Pro, it's "Effects→Artistic Effects→Halftone...".
6
Probably, the effect might be achieved with the help of slow sync flash method (a combination of slow shutter speed and firing flash). Not much lighting involved other than the on-camera flash. As the subject is crisp when the flash is fired and the blur caused with the long shutter speed. The reflections on the lips confirm that the flash is fired.
...
5
In this case I'm certain it's been done in post-processing: the background is too desaturated to look natural, regardless of the ambient light conditions. It's very easily done in post-processing: I've described a couple of techniques for Lightroom in this answer. They'll also explain how those touches of colour could have been left in the background while ...
5
It looks to me like it could be a bleach bypass. This effect was originally a film-processing technique, but it is often replicated digitally.
Here's one (rough) method to try in photoshop:
Make a duplicate layer of your photo, and set the duplicate to overlay.
Add a hue/saturation adjustment layer and desaturate the image (amount depends on image, so ...
5
Based on the sample set of images with the baby and the cat, here is what I believe has been done:
The original photo was 2-bit posterized, with a low contrast highlight color and black for the darks.
This should be done by duplicating the original photo to a new layer and posterizing the new layer.
The levels tool can be used to bring the white point ...
5
For a free program that will convert any image to a multi sheet half tone image see comment at end.
This appears to have been "screened" possibly with a physical screen layer but more probably in an image editor.
The effect is a variant of "half toning".
The basic process is explained quite well here Creating halftone effects - he explains briefly his ...
5
I can't imagine why you would want to do that, but it just looks like a bluish bias level was added to everything. Note that the blacks are NOT black. It looks like in this case about (0, .18, .34) was added to the black level.
Here is the original central area of your first picture:
I found the darkest area and subtracted off the black level:
The ...
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