Serene Life

by garik

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You have a few options - and they all boil down to getting less light into the camera: Smaller aperture using a smaller aperture (higher f-number) will make the image darker, it will also increase the depth of field (usually a good thing in landscape photography) and will reduce sharpness if you push it past a certain value (test with your own camera/lens ...


This is a complex answer, so feel free to ask more questions. Basically, one major difference between the images is that your noise sources in the image is vastly different. Because the noise is different and because its contribution is different with regard to exposure, the obtained images are quite different. Think of your camera detector as a well that ...


Modern automatic SLRs / DSLRs adjust the aperture in exactly the same way as manual SLRs, by closing the iris blades in the lens. The only difference is that it is closed/opened using an electric motor and this happens extremely quickly when firing the shutter, so you are probably unable to see it with the naked eye.


There are old approaches to triggering two cameras simultaneously. While the Nikon AR-4 has two different threads (it was designed for a macro system where you want the lens disconnected from the body to be triggered at the same time as the shutter) - similar dual threaded cable releases can be found if one looks. Note, however, that this requires a ...


As there is no way to synchronize the frame capture times between the two DSLRs, you cannot record in 3D. You would need to make some kind of a synchronization circuit and for that you need to hack into the DSLRs - way too complex for your project I guess. You can create 3D images though this way as single-triggering two cameras using one wire or wireless ...


I'll make some assumptions that aren't covered in your post. The images are all stored on the camera while shooting, you are shooting at a fixed location, and you are using a Canon EOS DSLR, like the 70D. Need more clarification from you. There are already apps out there that allow you to connect your Android to your camera, so it can definitely be done. ...


If you were using Shutter-Priority exposure mode, you would have wanted to set your EV compensation down -1 or -2 stops, depending on how overexposed your shot was. Even better would be to set your camera to Manual exposure mode, pick the shutter speed you want, and manual dial your aperture down (higher f/number) until you achieve the desired exposure ...


What you are looking for is a ND filter (Neutral Density). They comes both as a fixed value f/stops and as a variable filter. Which as it says either takes a fixed value of light or a variable amount. I own a variable which after a few test shots can be matched any lighting situation. The fixed amount ND filter, only matches the particular situation where ...

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