by Jakub

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Provided your lens isn't a power zoom (fairly rare, these lenses have motors that drive the zoom mechanism), then no you will not damage either camera or lens.


Moving elements around in the lens or changing its size (most lenses get longer or shorter when zoomed) will necessarily move air around. Doing so while the shutter is open may allow dust to get on the sensor. Since getting a little bit of dust on the sensor is the worst thing that can happen if you zoom during an exposure, I would call it perfectly safe.


Today, most DSLR mirrors are operated by a dedicated motor. Return springs are used to move the mirror back into position. Some DSLR's have two mirror motors. One to raise and one for return. Here is a video that shows how the Canon EOS 7D Mark II operates:


Reset your settings as described in the manual on page 224 menu button -> shooting menu: "yes" for "Reset Shooting Menu" Additionally, check your manual focus settings as found on page 83 of the same manual.


If you need to have as much as possible including infinity sharp, it's better to focus at the hyperfocal distance instead of infinity. Then everything from half the hyperfocal distance to infinity is acceptably sharp. There are websites and smartphone apps to calculate that distance. I'm not sure what you mean by "It is my understanding that with manual ...


The short answer is yes, using live view is the equivalent from a mirror movement point of view as using mirror lock-up. (The mirror doesn't drop again). However in the normal live view case the shutter curtain must reset before the exposure can begin. This results in one more mechanical action than just using mirror lock-up and not live view. Additionally ...


My Nikon D700, which I assume is similar in function to your D3, brackets around aperture (f/2.8, 4, 5.6, etc.) and holds the shutter speed to the one I selected when set to Shutter Priority mode. It brackets around shutter speed (1/125, 1/250, 1/500, etc.) and holds the aperture I selected when set to Aperture Priority mode. These examples assume a 1.0 ...


I found this technique as a recommendation to try out with a DSLR in a number of books on photography. To my knowledge it is safe for the lens and the body.


I believe the problem you're asking about is green non-uniformity (GNU) It is typically caused by differences cross talk from adjacent pixels in column direction. The difference in sensitive of the adjacent blue or red pixel will cause differences in the exposure of green pixel in question. This is typically counter acted by maintaining two green gain ...


For landscape photography where the scene is at infinity (or where the depth of field is not an issue, e.g. you don't want the grass in the field to be in focus, only the far away mountain range matters), you should set the aperture to that value for which your particular lens used by your camera, is the sharpest. This can be as large as f/4 but more ...


If you shoot underwater photography at very low angle, you cannot tilt your regular LCD screen due to water protection cover, so you can easily rely on top LCD screen to get to know the ISO, Aperture value etc. Overall, top LCD screen has minimal use and most of the information can be found on regular LCD panel, but if you are used to quickly view top LCD ...


I once (this one, I think) tried to stick a gopro onto the same tripod with my dSLR video, but could not contrive a steady enough mount. In this case I did not want them stacked on the same head, so the gopro doesn't move with the main camera panning. My idea was to use it as fallback when the dSLR loses a few seconds between clips, and to replace vibrating ...


In 2011, The New York Times wrote about Doug Mills using such a rig to shoot video with the attached camera while shooting still images with images with main camera. In his interview in December 2013 (at 00:19:49), he shows a Canon 5DmkII mounted on top of a D1x [sic, I guess he meant a Canon 1D x]. Joey Daoud has pushed the idea further to shoot video at ...


They are not the same lens. The older ED II has no VR (Vibration Reduction). The newer 18-55 VR II is so new a lot of the well know and well respected online reviewers haven't tested it yet, so it is hard to compare optical quality between the two. I would be very surprised, though, if the newer lens wasn't more than marginally better than the older one. And ...

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