Sunset in Kruger

by MrFrench

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I tried hard to find a source for that information, but no luck. However, it doesn't sound right to me because the idea behind putting a gel on a flash is to alter the light to match the ambient, be it tungsten, fluorescent, etc. That activity is independent of the sensor or the film in and of itself, it's simply about making the light outputs match each ...


The way I did it back when I had no remote to trigger: Place some dummy object to focus on, start the timer, then run and replace the dummy with yourself. I'm sure you've got something lying around that you can use for that purpose. Even if it's just a broom leaning against a chair. That of course is just a workaround to get things done. If you're doing ...


Comparing super zoom lenses is really not very much different then comparing any other lens. For super zoom lenses you need to understand that in general they are all based on compromises. The big three that you will have to choose between are optical quality, size, and price. Typically you get to choose either 1 or 2 of the 3, but not all three. Size, ...


Unfortunately, no. While a Gorillapod is highly practical, and I have the SLR-Zoom too, it is weakest for long lenses because it is very sensitive to an off-center center-of-gravity. When a lens extends out much from the camera body, Gorillapod becomes unstable.


What you're seeing is consistent with data corruption in that the preview lo-res jpeg is fine, and that the compressed raw has a number of incorrect or missing bytes causing corruption. The question Why do images get "corrupted"? describes the effect at the file level. Use of a different file format (raw rather than jpeg) will give you different output but ...


Reset your settings as described in the manual on page 224 menu button -> shooting menu: "yes" for "Reset Shooting Menu" Additionally, check your manual focus settings as found on page 83 of the same manual.


This is to be expected. The mode you are using when the rear screen shows the shot is called "live view", and in this mode, the camera uses contrast-detect autofocus, which is very accurate but inherently slow. If you use manual focus or prefocus, the lag should be somewhat reduced. In "normal" SLR mode, the mirror directs part of the light to your ...


You have to distinguish between software and hardware image stabilisation, often referred to OIS - Optical Image Stabilisation - for the hardware kind, where the lens or sensor moves to counteract camera shake and perhaps just IS for the software kind, where software techniques are used to remove the effect of shake. However, Canon's stabilised lenses have ...


As Mattdm says in the comments, any DSLR will work. If you want to take hight quality pictures of buildings with city lights, you'll end up having to invest quite a lot in post processing skills to get nice high dynamic range (HDR) pictures where the city lights are not overexposed and yet the dark areas are not underexposed. You may not care about that ...


You can increase your f-stop. That way, the depth of field of the photo increases and more of the scene will be in focus. This darkens your image, though. Also, if you'd like some blur in the background, you'll have to keep the f-number low. Additionally you can try to manually focus. That way, the camera won't mess up (you will). As Daniel mentioned, you ...


No digital cameras use the Contax/Yashica mount directly (Kyocera never got into the dSLR game, despite owning the mount system), but with adapters, they can be used on a variety of digital SLR and mirrorless bodies, with a few caveats. All mirrorless bodies (Sony E-mount/NEX, Fuji X, Samsung NX, micro four-thirds, etc.) can easily adapt C/Y lenses with ...

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