Slains Castle

by pakman

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The main reason is that it is low powered. An raster LCD - color or not - requires much more power and most of them need a permanently on back-light. New OLED display do not need the back-light but still pull more power than a segment-based LCD which has much fewer electronic circuits. Most current top-plate LCDs mirror what is shown in the status line of ...


In order to use the rear LCD to compose pictures (as opposed to using the optical viewfinder), you must put your camera into "Live View" mode. On the 600D (and all other recent Canon SLRs), this is done by pressing the button marked with a camera icon and a red dot which is just to the right of the viewfinder: It is worth noting that using the rear LCD ...


Segment LCD is a technology with the lowest power consumption of all available display technologies and those are more than visible on sunlight or any kind of strong light without any need for background lightning (except at night). Very useful for battery operated devices. It's also the cheapest possible display technology. They are also extremely robust. ...


It is not that the display switches to viewfinder after some seconds, it is that the camera goes to sleep mode. So you need to go to Menu, then look for the Auto Power off option, and choose the timeout value. You can switch it off entirely, which means that your camera would never go into sleep mode, you'd have to manually hit the OFF switch to switch the ...


If the back screen tilts up, you can use it from above too. I note that the old fashioned LCD on the top screen is readable in sunlight. It uses a backlight to read in the dark, but is read using ambient reflected light in daylight. The LCD screen is unreadable outside even in moderate sun. I further note that the backlight has "regressed" from an even ...


Ideally, output sharpening is always dependent on the target medium. Optimal quality needs an image which was resized and sharpened for the intended viewing conditions. A high-res display needs a larger image than a low-res display, and a screen needs differnt sharpening than a print, all of which should, eg., be handled automatically by the Lightroom ...


Yes, most any notebook computer is capable of allowing you to use calibration products to adjust the output of the display. It's not GPU specific, though. Using a hardware/software solution such as Spyder or ColorMunki is dependent upon compatibility with the installed operating system. Just about any notebook computer running a Windows or Mac Operating ...


Those LCD are probably already displaying every information you want/need, and probably more. Mine (EOS 7D) has : ISO Aperture Shutter speed White balance options Battery charge JPG and RAW size Exposition Metering mode Focus mode Number of pictures left I doubt displaying more would be any help and have a proof of it : even the main display won't show ...


When talking about the extent of a color gamut, all that's really talking about is the most highly saturated bright colours it can portray, which is only one small aspect of colour accuracy. It says nothing, for example, about the monitor's accuracy in displaying whites and greys, its accuracy in gamma and its ability to portray skin tones, and other mild ...


You could try to frame them in a wide gray or white passepartout (or mat). This might look like a real image on a wall.

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