Fresh Dew on a Rose

by adarsha joisa

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1

My view on buying/upgrading the camera kit is simple: you need to be able to explain why the piece of gear you want to buy will improve your work or allow you to expand what you do in areas your currently are struggling with because of gear limitations. "this is a better lens" doesn't cut it -- that's Gear Acquisition Syndrome. Instead you really need to ...


0

I don't know much about Nikon but in general I recommend upgrading glass or light first. Also the difference in quality between a wide range 18-200 to a prime or small range lens with a big aperture (smalle f-number) can be huge. My suggestion is you keep using this 18-200 till you find it's limitations for you (this can be very different from person to ...


8

I wouldn't spend any money, unless it is on books, training, or time! If you must spend money, I typically recommend first buying a wide aperture prime lens, but it isn't going to teach you how to take great photography, you already have all of the gear you need to do that. I would recommend putting yourself in an environment full of friends/forums that ...


1

The working principle is the same in both systems. Light makes electrons in silicon 'jiggle about' and the silicon is etched in a way that the jiggling makes those electrons move in the same direction. This process is the same as occurs in solar panels. When the image is 'read' from the sensor, each pixel has the charge measured (how this happens ...


0

I read that the Canon 7Dmk2 has a killer feature for sports lighting which times the exposure to synchronize with the lights. To fix in post, try shooting a burst which will get the stipes in different positions on each frame. Stack them (auto-align) in Photoshop and use brightest choice for each pixel via blending mode and parameters.


0

If the whole scene is illuminated by a single light source, it might be possible to create a "flat frame" by taking a picture of the uniform white background illuminated by that light source, and then using the flat frame to compensate your photo for uneven illumination (divide the photo by the flat frame in photoshop/gimp/other). Preparing a good quality ...


0

It's almost impossible to remove them in post. You'd basically have to repaint the image digitally. Choose a shutter speed that is slow enough to solve the problem in advance and in camera - it's always a better idea to solve problems as soon as practical. Sadly, I don't know a good formula to determine the best speed, but you could just take a few test ...


0

Actually, the open source program DarkTable has a waveform display. I've been involved in video editing for years, and I agree that it's also a useful display for photos. It's an impressive program.


0

One of my favorite correction programs is http://3dlutcreator.com/. You can correct images in it or save out LuTs for video correction. It has a amazing palette of color tools for visualizing and changing color Photoshop only dreams of. I'm quite disappointed with Photoshop's color correction tools too. In the end it comes down to mainly masks, hue/sat and ...


0

We can't tell you whether the difference in image quality is worth the price, because that's a personal decision based on your circumstances. What we can tell you is the advantages the EF-S 24mm will give you over your kit lens: A stop of aperture (the 18-55 has a maximum aperture of f/4.0 at 24mm). That's never something to be sniffed at. Physically much ...


1

Actually I just found out that all one needs is the Google Camera app. Thus, eg Samsung Galaxy NX, which runs Android should do the job, without any extra afterworks.


2

Lightroom 4 and older the general advice was to limit the size of a catalog because it would get slow and sluggish. The size limit varied, but 20-25K seems a good general consensus depending on the hardware you're running it on. Lightroom 5 fixed those problems. I've been running a catalog with 40,000 images in it fine. If you're running on old, slow ...



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