Red and Blue

by Gordon

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What is its goal? The main goal of the Brenizer method is to mimic the shallower depth of field you get with a medium or large format camera without using a medium or large format camera. While larger formats do not, inherently, give you shallower DoF, the fact that larger formats yield a wider field of view tends, if you try to compose an image ...


2

I asked a while ago how to do that in Photoshop better. It has, in current versions, a depth-mapped dof lens-effect simulator, and an automatic "select what's in focus". A fully automated thing would do it the same way but punt on the depth mapping. A program for Android platform cameras has you move the camera up and over while it's looking, so it figures ...


2

The local contrast can be used to determine the region that is not in focus, and also you can determine by how a certain part of the picture is out of focus. One can then apply a blur that depends on the local contrast so that the more some region is out of focus, the more it will be blurred.


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You can calculate what you need to do as follows. First we need to look up what the pixel size r is for your camera sensor. For your camera we can find here that r = 3.8*10^(-6) m. Then the so-called "hyperfocal distance" H is given in terms of the focal length f and F-number F as: H = f^2/(F r) The hyperfocal distance is defined as the minimum distance ...


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You are right. A shorter focal-length has more depth of field but this will get reduced by having to stand closer. Unless you crop, the depth-of-field for equal framing will remain almost the same. I made exact calculations when shopping for a macro lens this fell within 0.1% difference. You are left with closing down the aperture. F/8 is sharp and very ...


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I see few solutions: Make focal length shorter. When it is shorter DoF is bigger Close apperture. I know usually at f8 the sharpnes is best, but... Invest in tilt-shift lens and tilt it for maximum DoF



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