Red and Blue

by Gordon

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What is its goal? The main goal of the Brenizer method is to mimic the shallower depth of field you get with a medium or large format camera without using a medium or large format camera. While larger formats do not, inherently, give you shallower DoF, the fact that larger formats yield a wider field of view tends, if you try to compose an image ...


I asked a while ago how to do that in Photoshop better. It has, in current versions, a depth-mapped dof lens-effect simulator, and an automatic "select what's in focus". A fully automated thing would do it the same way but punt on the depth mapping. A program for Android platform cameras has you move the camera up and over while it's looking, so it figures ...


The local contrast can be used to determine the region that is not in focus, and also you can determine by how a certain part of the picture is out of focus. One can then apply a blur that depends on the local contrast so that the more some region is out of focus, the more it will be blurred.


You can calculate what you need to do as follows. First we need to look up what the pixel size r is for your camera sensor. For your camera we can find here that r = 3.8*10^(-6) m. Then the so-called "hyperfocal distance" H is given in terms of the focal length f and F-number F as: H = f^2/(F r) The hyperfocal distance is defined as the minimum distance ...


You are right. A shorter focal-length has more depth of field but this will get reduced by having to stand closer. Unless you crop, the depth-of-field for equal framing will remain almost the same. I made exact calculations when shopping for a macro lens this fell within 0.1% difference. You are left with closing down the aperture. F/8 is sharp and very ...


I see few solutions: Make focal length shorter. When it is shorter DoF is bigger Close apperture. I know usually at f8 the sharpnes is best, but... Invest in tilt-shift lens and tilt it for maximum DoF

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