Shadowy Daisy

Shadowy Daisy
by damned-truths

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40

Here's some of what I do: Throw out the worst first. Blurry, blown out, excessively dark/noisy. Back-of-somene's-head is usually included here too. Repeat the above rule a few times, raising the bar for "worst" so that it's relative to the new set. Try to eliminate duplicates. This is an especially big deal when shooting in burst mode. Take X pictures that ...


37

I don't know if this is a great system, but here's what I do: After the shoot/session is done I immediately sort through every frame I took looking for the 'keepers.' I do it this way because for me it is easier to choose to keep the great shots than it is to delete the borderline shots... That may just be me. :-) Next I sort through every frame I didn't ...


18

First of all my workflow is based on Lightroom, but I know other software allows you to work like this. I never delete anything on camera. Import everything into Lightroom, I prefer not to skip any images at the import stage, this also means everything gets copied to my archive. First pass, in loupe view, image at full screen, I use the flagging system to ...


18

Not sure that a picture with incorrect histogram, excessively dark/noisy or blurred should be removed immediately. Sometimes I see that even defective picture looks good after time. For example (as for me): So I found the best method to select the best pictures: I just show the pictures to my wife.


14

Delete the bad ones vs. Keep the good ones. Until some months ago I have always taken the usual approaches: Mark the ones which are not really good, delete them, and repeat this step multiple times. I found this was very time-consuming and at the end I still had a lot more pictures than I wanted to have. My new way is the opposite: Mark the images you want ...


13

The answers per criterion: In LR go through the photos in the Library module with the Loupe view using the arrow keys. Hit X when you want to discard a photo. To keep the discarded photos from the list click the left and middle flag in the filter bar. I've added a screenshot showing the location of the buttons: This hides the discarded photos from the ...


12

There's no "right" way to do this, it's what works best for you. In general, I just tend to do the "delete all" unless the card is quite full, then I may format. It's just a question of speed, I'll tend to use the fastest path to clearing it off. Now, there are some that recommend regular formatting of the card for various reasons. I'm not in that camp, the ...


12

Delete is my friend and I use it frequently: Delete immediately in-camera if I know I missed a shot. Things like people entering the shot at the wrong moment, forgot the camera was in MF, etc. Delete anything that is not technically perfect: sharp, focused, well exposed, well framed, correct WB, level, etc as a first pass on the computer, using PMVIew Pro ...


10

If you've ever stood over a light table, not a light box, but a table that's 4'x4', covered with 35mm and medium format transparencies, you'd notice that some images jump out at you. Even with hundreds of shots in front of you, some grab your attention and others are invisible, even though, by themselves, they'd be great photos. That's why LightRoom, ...


8

Since some people in the question comments repeatedly told me it was rather trivial, I actually did it: An application that sorts the images in the current directory by leaving the actual head-to-head comparison to the user.1 Written in C# for .NET 2. Works on Mono (tested on Linux so far), too. Requires dcraw on the PATH (compiled executable for Windows or ...


8

I'm not sure that the effects would be different but I would say the safe bet is 'Format the memory card using the camera menu' Just make sure you have all of the pictures saved elsewhere before you do this (accidentally wiping out photos sucks)


7

Take Fewer Photos Slow down. Be more deliberate. Consider the "why" of each image before you capture it. Of course, you could go back to your smaller camera!? ;)


7

Read your camera's manual. They usually have recommendations. Eliminate human error. Card errors of any type are much, much more more rare than you just messing up. The format used on cards has been a standard for a long time, and modern sizes are such that what metadata or hidden files a computer might leave are pretty insignificant. If you can find a ...


6

While viewing protected images on your Nikon D-90 press White Balance/Key button and this will unprotect them. I had the same problem but don't know how I managed to "protect" them in the first place..lol. :))


5

Either format the card with the format function from the menus, or browse the photos and press the key button to unlock the photos, then erase them.


5

This article by Chase Jarvis explains his awesome workflow. He shows how he selects few pics to put on his portfolio and show to his clients from a set of about 15K clicks.. This is the summary: There are 5 stars available in any workflow management s/w like bridge or aperture. He uses the stars in following manner to sort the pictures out. 1* – Pace: Full ...


5

If you use your cards in different cams you'll notice that quite a few cameras only show pictures took with this one camera. So if you chose "delete all" it will only delete those images it knows, made by the cam itself and you'll end up with a partly filled memory card, not being able to take as much pictures as it should. Same if you sometimes have other ...


5

Use Lightroom's Synchronize command. You can execute this command at whatever level in your catalog is most appropriate, and you will have the option to remove all missing files which, if you have already intentionally deleted your image files, is what you want.


5

The problem is that Lightroom does not know about these images, so it cannot do anything about it. Essentially you want to know which photos are not in Lightroom. I have no idea how to do that but I think this will work: From Lightroom, select the folder or tree where these photos are and synchronize it. It will popup the import dialog, just continue the ...


5

It's hard to say if this is easily doable in Lightroom without a sample image, but I think there are two ways to do this. The used tools are found in the Develop module. Spot removal Click the spot removal icon: Set the brush type to clone: Adjust parameters to your liking. A good start is: feather = 10, size = 50, opacity = 100. Now click on the ...


4

Deleting comes first in my workflow. As I mostly take photos during vacations, some many pictures add up. I have noticed that often the same process holds if I go shooting some special site/object only: Deleting done sometimes already in camera (you know when you f*ck up) at first review: I move everything I do not like into a deleted-folder1 this way ...


4

I have struggled with the same question on occassion. One of the first things to look at is how you are reviewing the images. There are various tools out there that can help with the task. For example there is Lightroom and PhotoMechanic to name two of the popular ones. These have rating tools, or flags for setting Pick or Reject. However this task can also ...


3

At events with a lot going on (races, air shows, sports games) reviewing in camera and being more considerate with your shots aren't always that practical. The latter comes with experience, but even when experienced you still want to be taking a series of shots in these scenarios (guaranteed you would end up with a silly facial expression or closed eyes if ...


3

I have consistently found that an iterative approach leads to the best results. How you do the iterations depends on many factors, including what you mean by best, the % of good and bad photos you take, how many of your photos are technically ok (in focus) etc. Either way, the goal is to eliminate more photos quickly in the early passes and pay closer ...


3

The best for what, is always the question. If something is going to be printed large or shown where you want people to admire both technique and artistry, then you start by removing technically flawed images. If the image is going to someone who is not going to be primarily judging on technical merit, you probably want to look for the best composition or ...


3

1) Did you take a picture? 2) Keep the picture. That's it. Take a blurry picture of your shoe by accident? How do you know in ten years you'll not be into abstract shoe shots? Or perhaps just want what happens to be the only image of what turned out to be your favorite shoes. The point is, there's no need to decide. Just keep. Over time review what ...


3

You needed to use the Delete From Disk option. You removed your reference to the images in Lightroom and it now has no more idea about them than it does about your Word documents and internet browsing history. One thing you could do since you have so few images is you could make a new folder, drag the photos to keep in to that folder in the Library view (...


3

Nikon cameras (at least my D300 and D7100) have a lock button. Pressing this button will protect an image from accidental deletion. Review an image on your camera and press the lock button (the one with a key symbol) to protect the image.. Alternatively, you can setup your camera to make a backup copy on the second memory card. Deleting an image, is only ...


3

Locking the memory card (with the little slider) should do it. Rene's second-card solution seems good too, but I'd worry that with buttons being pressed quickly at random, it'd be easy to delete all or even format the card. An even better approach might be to use an eyefi card to automatically upload your photos as they are taken. That way, it doesn't ...


2

Flash cards generally are limited in the number of writes rather than the number of reads (as in the MTBF is a function of writes not reads). Formatting a card is a much "cheaper" operation (in terms of writes) than deleting all the images, so it's possible that formatting the card rather than deleting may help prolong the life of your card, although in the ...



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