Hot answers tagged data-corruption
20
Likely culprits, in order of probability:
Bad SD card (by far the most likely).
Bad cable or card reader.
A bad connection inside the camera.
Something horribly wrong with the camera's electronics.
Something wrong on your computer.
The "bad card" scenario is, unfortunately, the most likely, and in that case the pictures are lost. If it is just the ...
8
With this kind of situation you need to narrow things down. Transfer the photos to a different computer. If the problem is solved, it's likely your computer. If not, try a different card. If all the photos come out fine, it was the card. If you still have a problem, it could be the cable at fault; try another one. If it's still corrupting, then it's likely ...
6
The best option, and one which I use myself, is two fold. I've done this for a couple years now, and while at times it is tedious, it is the only way I actually feel safe about my LARGE photography library (~40,000 RAW photos, averaging around 23mb each) as well as my growing library of edited photos, photos sized for web publishing, photos sized for various ...
6
Never backup just at home. All backup solutions have some chance of failure including the loss, theft, fire, floods and natural disasters. There should be two copies in two different physical locations at all times. So, even if you make the backups at home, be prepared to take one elsewhere. Mine duplicates go in a safe at the bank.
For the highest volumes ...
5
In general, if you want to keep your data longer than the 4-5 year average life span of a hard drive, you need at least two copies on two different devices. Ideally, those devices should be in different physical locations.
The trick is mostly to have the backups run automatically, so you don't forget it.
I recommend Crashplan, it's the simplest and most ...
5
From the Exif Info,
The normal photo has exposure 1/60s, ISO 80 and f4.9 without flash, focal length 13.6mm.
The purple one has exposure 1/60s, ISO 1000 and f5.9 with flash, focal length 33mm. This picture should have been overexposed by at least 3 stops + flash if you had taken it with the same lighting as the normal picture.
Its possible that the ...
5
There is one possibility and that is an operator error. Any one of these will do it:
If you took out the card from the camera before it was finished writing. In this case your pictures are lost since they were never stored correctly.
If you took out the memory from the reader before it was finished reading (If you use Windows, you should use the ...
4
Looking at the raw file, the JPG preview looks fine, but there is about 1/6th of the RAW image that is blanked out.
It could have been a glitch in the camera, an error on the card, or an error in the transfer to your computer.
If you still have the image on the card, I'd try to transfer again.
Then reformat the card and see if it happens again.
If it ...
4
File deletion essentially means removing file entry from file system (file system contains information about all location and size of all files on disc or memory card). If something goes wrong file system may become corrupted, rendering card inaccessible (all the data may be still there, but without filesystem you can't tell where one file begins and another ...
3
One of the things I most love about digital photography over traditional film photography is how easy it is to have a backup. If my house burns down, my slides are gone forever but all of the digital photos are safe.
Because of how easy it is to have a backup, and how cheap it is, I have many backups.
Primary storage: roughly the most recent year is kept ...
3
The only way to determine the source of this issue is by process of elimination. Some things to try:
if you put the card back into the camera, does the camera (preview window) display the images corrupted or correctly?
try opening the image with a different application. if you are on a Mac (with OS X Lion) then Finder should be able to preview most RAW ...
3
From chuqui over at photos.stackexchange.com on How often should I format my memory card?:
I format my card every time I stick it
in my camera and start a shoot.
I do this for a couple of reasons.
First, it means every time I start a
shoot, I don't accidentally leave the
previous shoot on it (and it also
means I don't delete it until I ...
3
Short: Free & marvellous Recuva - File Recovery software from Piriform worked for me when a substantial number of other free and for-$ programs failed to.
The program is currently Windows-only but even a hardcore Mac man can probably stoop to using a Windows machine in such dire circumstances :-).
Some notes at end or see their website as above.
...
3
This is a long shot, but if your JPEGs happen to be encoded in progressive mode, then you may be able to salvage a lower resolution version of your corrupted picture(s).
Progressive JPEGs are encoded as several incremental "scans". The file begins with a scan that represents the whole image at a very low resolution, each successive scan builds on top of the ...
3
If the problem is with the huffman (this is the lossless part of the JPEG compression), then your chances of recovering the image information are really minimal. Huffman, like other forms of entropy coding, minimizes information redundancy in the data stream, ideally to the absolute minimum. This means that there are most likely no "other pieces" of the ...
3
I had similar issues with images on my Nikon D70.
Occasionally the camera showed a 'CHA' error message, images written to the card were corrupt (but could be resurrected by a data recovery tool).
As it turned out my camera has contact problems at the CF card slot. Sometimes reinserting the memory card helps, sometimes I have to use contact spray to get my ...
3
That is what a JPEG image looks like when the file is corrupted.
By corrupted, I mean a data corruption problem: one or more bits in the file are not what they should be - zeroes becoming ones or vice versa. JPEG is a lot more susceptible than any uncompressed format as a single wrong bit may make the bottom half of your whole picture purple or black or ...
2
This behaviour is not normal. Aperture should write the assosiated source file(s) to the directory you specify in the export dialog, depending on the options probably in a subfolder named by the project.
So something goes severly wrong. For troubleshooting I suggest you check the following things:
Does this happen to all photos or only to one/some?
Is the ...
2
It sounds like your photos may be fragmented, hence the grey areas making the images appear corrupted. Try Adroit Photo Recovery, which can take fragmented photos and stitch them back together.
It's not free, though it is free to try to see if it works (and something like 20 bucks for a 7 day use, which is actually pretty cheap compared to some of the ...
2
Before resorting to software try using a POWERED USB hub. The additional amperage (I know that sounds like an overstatement) or stronger (not higher) voltage makes the images easier to read. I discovered this effect making repeated copies (or attempts to make copies) of an 18 Gb set of jpg.s on a 32Gb compact flash. The card is a new Sandisk Extreme. It ...
2
Depends on your budget. If your camera is in warrantee you may actually be able to get a free repair from canon.
Budget: $500 and under
I would recommend buying a used camera. Any old camera used will do: canon 50d, canon xt, etc.
As long as the person hasn't used registered their camera warantee you're in good shape. I would inspect any pictures etc. ...
2
Since neither Windows nor the camera can read the card, I think the most likely scenario is that the changes Windows were about to write to the card were interrupted halfway through.
Such interruptions will corrupt a file system for sure, and could happen if you just unplug the card instead of going through the Windows "safely remove hardware and eject ...
2
Opening files from a card on Windows should not corrupt it, since that action is only doing a read, and not altering the contents.
You should never format, or delete images on anything other than the camera, primarily because of the various disk formats and implementation of them on computers.
Most cameras use the Windows format known as FAT32. This ...
1
Search for image recovery software. Sandisk used to supply it free with the purchase of some of their CF cards. Plug your memory stick into the reader, run the recovery software.
https://www.google.com/search?q=image+recovery+software
Just because the files are deleted on the card doesn't mean they're gone. Unless you've written to the memory stick ...
1
I assume the images are OK on the camera in which case the issue lies in data transfer from the card. If not OK on the camera you have a defective or unformatted card or a dirty connector on camera (see below).
If OK on the camera this could be a physical problem with the card (cracked track somewhere, unlikely as this would most probably just fail). Most ...
1
I once had a bad sensor do this sort of thing. Canon had recalled the camera, but by the time I'd found this out it was too late for mine to be repaired/replaced.
Sometimes an overheating camera will behave differently so switch it off after a photography session to let the sensor and electronics cool down a bit.
1
I had a damaged SD card, was working on minute, next time I turned on the camera, card no longer recognized and prompt to format. It had a good number of photos and videos on it. I tried it in a mac, a PC, multiple cameras. Cameras wanted to format it as it couldn't read it and computers simply did not recognize it at all (so all those posts about software ...
1
I have had success with this... Download Asoftech Data Recovery program.
You have to use a card reader either on your computer or an external USB card reader. Put the card in the card reader, open the recovery program, then select the drive where files are deleted, then press “Next” and wait for it to do its magic.
1
mattdm's link looks to have the same problem as you. Please have a look at that question.
To figure out where things are going wrong, you want to eliminate things one at a time:
try a different card. If that works, you know it's your card
if you have reformatted the card from Windows, try again from the camera menu
try shooting RAW + JPG and see if both ...
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