Time to be with your loved ones

Time to be with loved ones

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42

The key is adding some specific tags every time you import. I use Aperture (which is Mac-only,) but Lightroom has similar capabilities, as does iphoto. What you need to tag depends on what you shoot, and what you think you might be looking for someday, but this works for me: The people in the pictures. I use Apple's "Faces" feature to tag people in the ...


33

Here's some of what I do: Throw out the worst first. Blurry, blown out, excessively dark/noisy. Back-of-somene's-head is usually included here too. Repeat the above rule a few times, raising the bar for "worst" so that it's relative to the new set. Try to eliminate duplicates. This is an especially big deal when shooting in burst mode. Take X pictures that ...


29

I don't know if this is a great system, but here's what I do: After the shoot/session is done I immediately sort through every frame I took looking for the 'keepers.' I do it this way because for me it is easier to choose to keep the great shots than it is to delete the borderline shots... That may just be me. :-) Next I sort through every frame I didn't ...


27

You are right, that is a personal question and it will vary tremendously, some situations like fast-moving actions will often get a higher hit-to-miss ratio, so I do not think you can get a useful numeric answer. My motto for this is 'Delete is my friend' :) I first delete anything that is not technically perfect (with extremely few exceptions, less than ...


25

Adobe Lightroom is one application which a lot of professional photographers would use both for reviewing large quantities of images, and also for doing some initial post-processing. A lot of photographers these days find they rarely use Photoshop anymore, finding Lightroom very powerful in it's organising and post-process abilities. From it's conception, ...


20

Nice question. This is an issue we all face. My answer has two parts: 1) keep as much as possible 2) religiously tag your photos in an organized way. 1) Why keep as much as possible? Your perspective changes with time and 20 to 30 years later your photos acquire a historical value that transcends their artistic value. I discovered this when I started ...


18

First of all my workflow is based on Lightroom, but I know other software allows you to work like this. I never delete anything on camera. Import everything into Lightroom, I prefer not to skip any images at the import stage, this also means everything gets copied to my archive. First pass, in loupe view, image at full screen, I use the flagging system to ...


16

Not sure that a picture with incorrect histogram, excessively dark/noisy or blurred should be removed immediately. Sometimes I see that even defective picture looks good after time. For example (as for me): So I found the best method to select the best pictures: I just show the pictures to my wife.


15

For a free option, have a look at Google's Picasa. It allows you to sort your images via folders and tags, and easily upload them for sharing. It can be found here: http://picasa.google.com/ It also has rudimentary editing options, but I'd recommend Lightroom if you want a decent processing program. Conor's right, it's far from free at ~£250, but you can ...


14

Delete the bad ones vs. Keep the good ones. Until some months ago I have always taken the usual approaches: Mark the ones which are not really good, delete them, and repeat this step multiple times. I found this was very time-consuming and at the end I still had a lot more pictures than I wanted to have. My new way is the opposite: Mark the images you want ...


12

Delete is my friend and I use it frequently: Delete immediately in-camera if I know I missed a shot. Things like people entering the shot at the wrong moment, forgot the camera was in MF, etc. Delete anything that is not technically perfect: sharp, focused, well exposed, well framed, correct WB, level, etc as a first pass on the computer, using PMVIew Pro ...


12

The people who make TinEye have a product called PixMatch which can search individual collections. It's not implemented as a desktop application, though — it's a server-based API. And it appears to be priced for serious enterprise use, not for individuals. So that's there, but not really an answer. But a competing company does have something for the desktop ...


11

It doesn't make a lot of sense to organize photos by something that is already in the EXIF data, like the date the photos were taken. I organize my photos in folders by event/location. The most important thing is to make sure you tag as much as possible when you import. The chances of going back later to tag are basically nil, so you need to make sure to do ...


10

If you don't want to pay for Adobe Lightroom or Apple Aperture, you could go with Apple's iPhoto or Google's Picasa. I'm most familiar with iPhoto; it does a fair amount of hand-holding when it comes to organizing photos. Smart Albums are really nice; you write the filter logic, and iPhoto shows you the matching photos on an ongoing basis. Works wonders for ...


10

If you've ever stood over a light table, not a light box, but a table that's 4'x4', covered with 35mm and medium format transparencies, you'd notice that some images jump out at you. Even with hundreds of shots in front of you, some grab your attention and others are invisible, even though, by themselves, they'd be great photos. That's why LightRoom, ...


7

I've been using Picasa version 3.6. In addition to tags and geo-tagging, it also recognizes (some) faces and can attach "name tags" to photos. I use separate folders for the date the photo was taken grouped by months and years, e.g. Photos\2010\07\0720. Picasa orders the pictures by folder and date, or album and I can also search by tag, person, or ...


7

Since some people in the question comments repeatedly told me it was rather trivial, I actually did it: An application that sorts the images in the current directory by leaving the actual head-to-head comparison to the user.1 Written in C# for .NET 2. Works on Mono (tested on Linux so far), too. Requires dcraw on the PATH (compiled executable for Windows or ...


7

Unfortunately I had the exact opposite criteria as you :) I looked at every software I could which did NOT touch the files and stored the information in a central database. The one constant is that having a central database makes it much more efficient to perform searches and filter your images. I do have hundreds of gigs of photos and the most efficient ...


6

Well, actually most photo editors can't do it. The category of software you are looking for is called digital asset management (DAM) software. There are review of 5 popular options here: http://www.neocamera.com/article.php?id=dam-software If simple and fast is your criteria, then I suggest you look at PicaJet FX. It is available for Windows for $60. You ...


6

First of all, you will save a lot of effort by adopting a software that includes worflow management and Digital Asset Management. Aperture, Lightroom, or even Adobe Bridge to name a few. This is a bit arbitrary but works for me as a hybrid between a keyword-based and a directory-based workflow management. I use a very specific directory structure explained ...


6

If you have a Mac, you should consider Apple's Aperture. It's a fully featured workflow program that simplifies importing, tagging, organising, processing and publishing. It's often compared to Lightroom, and is significantly cheaper if you buy it using the Mac App Store - currently $79.99 compared with over $200 for Lightroom. It's also generally ...


6

In the Linux world Shotwell, though still new, shows a great deal of promise as a photo collection organiser. It is quick, intuitive, powerful yet simple to use. It provides essential post-processing tools and when those are not enough can call Gimp. Shotwell web site


6

WLPG stores data in the image, and in a database. High CPU usage may be a background process scanning images for faces. This can take quite some time (days). It's a low priority process, so (in theory) it won't slow down other applications; however, the elevated CPU usage will consume power (stay plugged in until it's finished). If you edit an image, be ...


5

I use Photo Mechanic for this purpose. While not free it's quite cheap and it allows you to rank (and then sort) images by a number of means, displays images along with histograms and exif information, and more importantly preloads and caches the images so you can cycle through them much more quickly than for example the windows image viewer. The program is ...


5

This article by Chase Jarvis explains his awesome workflow. He shows how he selects few pics to put on his portfolio and show to his clients from a set of about 15K clicks.. This is the summary: There are 5 stars available in any workflow management s/w like bridge or aperture. He uses the stars in following manner to sort the pictures out. 1* – Pace: Full ...


4

Deleting comes first in my workflow. As I mostly take photos during vacations, some many pictures add up. I have noticed that often the same process holds if I go shooting some special site/object only: Deleting done sometimes already in camera (you know when you f*ck up) at first review: I move everything I do not like into a deleted-folder1 this way ...


4

I am a lazy person. I find it tedious to delete photos... Actually since moving from JPEGs to RAWs last summer, I rarely even convert the photos to JPEGs and usually do it only on a need to basis. I don't think there is a rule of thumb here, as, as you mentioned, it is a very personal process that depends on many factors - including on how much storage space ...


4

Personally, I keep 99% of the photos I take, and I keep them at the original quality. I trash out just the ones that are really out of focus/blurred/underexposed/grainy. Unfortunately, even if I return on those that haven't been published online, most of them just aren't good for others to see :) Anyway, it's nice to turn back and see how and what you ...


4

I have struggled with the same question on occassion. One of the first things to look at is how you are reviewing the images. There are various tools out there that can help with the task. For example there is Lightroom and PhotoMechanic to name two of the popular ones. These have rating tools, or flags for setting Pick or Reject. However this task can also ...


3

I (like others here) keep most of what I shoot unless it was deleted immediately after for some obvious technical detail (such as out of focus). However, when I post online (if I post online) I choose only high quality photographs that don't expose more personal detail than I would like. Same thing for photo albums of whatever kind: I only keep all the ...



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