Sunset in Kruger

by MrFrench

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I am using a filter with an optical density of 8 to cut the infrared light so the camera does not detect it. You should be using a filter that blocks IR, but passes visible light. Ordinary neutral density filters work more or less the other way around. However, every other picture of samples emitting blue (visible with naked eye), appear with white ...


A Bayer sensor has red, green or blue filters in front of the individual sensor elements. A point source will only hit one element. A Bayer array cannot determine color in this case. A Foveon sensor detects the three colors at each sensor element. This should work.


I have seen the same problem when photographing a red laser spot, the spot came out white, not red. In my case it was an exposure problem, the small intense dot on a dark background, the dot was severely overexposed.


As John states, the camera may be compensating for the monochromatic light, or it could be saturation, if the point is much brighter than the background. Have you tried intentionally underexposing, i.e. set compensation -2 or more EV? Have you shut automatic white balance? You might also include a print of the spectrum in the photo, lighting the paper a ...


Warning: long meandering, speculative "answer" (and it may not even directly translate to Lightroom). In addition to the already described good practices for portrait photos, there's another subtle aspect that pertains to situations "in the wild" where the white balance you want for the image as a whole doesn't produce very pleasing skintones. I find this a ...


The short version of the answer to your question is that you do it both "in camera" and in post-production. A longer answer breaks out into a few thoughts: In Camera Light the subject correctly. I really recommend using an incident light meter (a decent hand held one) to calculate the correct exposure for the subject rather than relying on the reflective ...


I tried hard to find a source for that information, but no luck. However, it doesn't sound right to me because the idea behind putting a gel on a flash is to alter the light to match the ambient, be it tungsten, fluorescent, etc. That activity is independent of the sensor or the film in and of itself, it's simply about making the light outputs match each ...


What color are your walls painted, you said you are using your home studio, right? Maybe your lights are bouncing off your walls and bringing back some color into your images. Just food for thought.


No. Don't try gels. Your camera should have a custom white balance setting. Something like this: You need a 3 step process for this: 1) Take a photo of a white object using either Sun White Balance or Flash White balance (I prefer using sun). You can use a sheet of paper but as they can vary in color you probably need a gray card ...


If you want the color correct, I think the only answer is a color checker. You will find a wide variety of these small targets that contain a set of different color squares. You put the target in the scene or have somebody hold it and take one photo. You then take other photo's without the checker. When processing your images, you correct the image that ...

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