Time to be with your loved ones

Time to be with loved ones

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21

Color Management is a scientific process by which various devices used in an image processing workflow can be used despite differences in their supported color. Every device is only approximating some of the total range of colors humans can see, and this limited range is called its "color gamut". Each device has limitations, but those limitations differ from ...


18

The reason is that the red light is a light source, therefore it's much brighter than any other parts of the scene. The pixels showing it are overblown - meaning there was more light coming than your camera sensor could capture. The light is not pure red, it emits enough green and blue light to blow these color channels of pixels too. The hood is just ...


17

That comes down to color temperature of the ambient light. Flash always has something similar to daylight (5500-6500K), so you need to use conversion gels from daylight. Most useful gel is CTO (color temperature orange), which will color daylight to tungsten (3200K). Usage is as follows:Stick CTO gel on flashSet color temperature to tungstenShoot This has ...


15

I cannot give an exhaustive answer for everything you could improve, but I think you have a problem I am frequently noticing in my own images: oversaturation. This is especially well visible in the third image - in my experience, dead reed does not have such a rich golden hue, especially on a cloudy winter day. Oversaturation happens frequently, because a) ...


13

My solution is to set a timer and stop editing when it goes off. I won't edit any single shot for more than 15 minutes and try not to edit for more than an hour. Go for a walk, look out a window, see some reality (not just browse the web) -- even 5 minutes is generally enough to restore my reality and save me from the terrible progression of excessive edits. ...


11

Some post processing is needed for some images, and most images benefit from some post processing. When you take an image like this, where most of it is blue, the automatic white balance will be fooled into thinking that the image should be much less blue. If you had used the "daylight" setting for white balance, it would have been a lot closer to the ...


10

The color correction is acting as expected. The point of using a color target is to adjust for the color of light to assume that the light is white. If you want to have the color that is present when shooting, you should instead use a fixed white point that you consider to be standard white, but naturally people's eyes will adjust quite a bit for the color ...


9

I'm surprised no one has suggested the most important thing you can do to improve that picture: Take the photo when the light is better. Let's say that row of houses faces east. There's going to be a window of time in the morning where the low angle of the sun is going to cast a nice warm light on that facade while at the same time the sky behind it is ...


8

The trick here is that the scene was lit with a single incandescent (hot) lightsource. The sun is also an incandescent lightsource, just shifted a bit in the spectrum. This means it's really easy to make the bonfire shot look like daylight, as all the frequencies are present, just shifted. All I did was load the RAW into Adobe's RAW converter and drop the ...


8

The third is a result of the first two. You have to set a ratio for each color in relation to another. If you turn up both the blue and the green, this effectively reduces the red. Similarly, if you go all the way towards yellow and magenta, then you increase the red. Put another way, green/magenta is the balance between green vs red and blue and ...


7

The amount of processing is always a matter of personal taste, you can see some people to prefer almost straight-from-the-camera images, while others apply significant contrast changes to achieve their typical look. So the matter of post-processing is always a matter of your personal taste (and of course how much do you want to go with what people around ...


7

I would think that a lab's color-correcting quality is dependent upon the lab and the skill of the technicians. There probably is not a single, globally correct answer here, as every lab will use different equipment and have different people with different levels of skill. That said, when it comes to color correction for print, taking the paper into account ...


7

IT is enough to add a cooling filter (25% Cooling Filter (80) in Photoshop) to the image and increase a little the contrast and saturation (10% or so). Do not overdo it or the result will be unrealistic. You could use a polarizing filter for a darker sky. always shoot in raw to be able to change the white balance later. If unsure of the details you whant to ...


7

I'm surprised nobody mentioned a polarizing filter. That can do wonders on a blue sky, depending on the angle from the sun. Think about what sky light actually is. It's light from the sun getting scattered from small particles in the atmosphere. Those are going to be largely dielectric, so will be polarized over a range of angles. The light from any one ...


6

Perspective and settings - like Darkcat Studio said. Direction of the light - in the second background, the side of the tree branches facing the camera near the couple are in shadow while the couple is lit from the front - you have to choose a background that has the same light direction has the foreground picture. Quality of the light - hard light vs. soft ...


6

Without referencing a white object in your photo, we cannot decide which one has a better white balance. In short, white balance is process of removing unrealistic color cast on your image, i.e., correct the white area in your image that captured as gray. So it cannot be judged by histogram. If you know what part of your image should be white and the image ...


6

The interesting thing here is that's not a colour cast, the hue values are messed up. It's not just that all the colours have been pushed toward purple, which can happen for certain white balance settings, what's actually happened is that all colours are shifted round the colour wheel, blue/cyan -> purple, orange/brown -> green. Here's the right hand part ...


5

One thing to consider when you have this kind of flat lighting and subdued colors is to go grayscale. Taking color out of the equation means you have the ability to control the contrast to enhance the textures and mood of the image without worrying about distorting the colors and worrying about the snow being too blue or yellow. Or, if you want to keep the ...


5

Yes, the camera has "presets" that are applied to the image to give it some more contrast, saturation, etc. It's very common for people to want to switch back to JPEG because RAW images look flat when you start out. It's important to still use RAW though, because you can add in your artistic vision a lot more effectively with more sensor data. To answer ...


5

To answer why there's no Red/Cyan balance we need to understand why Green/Magenta and Blue/Yellow are used. This is down to the CIE XYZ model based on the work of Wright/Guild back in 1931. These studies are direct studies into human colour perception and they now underpin pretty much all of colour theory. In their research, Green is represented in the ...


5

I think you hit the nail on the head with talking about looking at old photos (or other photos anyway) and coming back to it. In general, the important thing is to go to photos that have different primary colors or lighting and work on them for a bit. When I'm working through a large number of photo touch ups, I regularly jump from outside picture to ...


4

As far as I know, you need a gray card for exposure measurement and white balance correction. If you are only interested in custom white balance, you may use a white piece of paper that is lit under the same condition as your subject. Sometimes, you may even use a thin piece of paper (white toilet paper) you put on your lens and take a picture you will ...


4

According to this documentation, "Bibble 5 Lite offers sRGB and ProPhotoRGB (the working space), while Bibble 5 Pro offers a broad selection of color profiles." It's under Additional Image Settings in the output settings for the queue.


4

I'm not sure if your monitor is to blame here. I think there is a (green) color cast in your photo, your white-balance is likely off. I dropped it in Photoshop Elements, and using Auto Levels or Auto Smart Fix I was able to achieve a more realistic skin tone. It seems Gimp has an Auto menu, try "Auto White Balance" for kicks. On the left, yours, then Auto ...


4

If your photos were taken under different lighting conditions, it is unlikely you will be able to fully normalize all of them relative to each other. Lighting is a very critical aspect of photography, and changing it will indeed change the color balance of your photos. You may have some leeway to correct and improve similarity, however it is doubtful that ...



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