Time to be with your loved ones

Time to be with loved ones

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13

Yes there are a couple of options for doing macro on the cheap. The most common is extension tubes which are hollow tubes which basically just move the lens further away, decreasing the minimum focussing distance in the process. If you're really stuck you can in fact just hold your lens in front of the camera focus and composure are a bit hit and miss with ...


8

A camera lens is made up of a number of individual glass elements (lenses) which work together to focus an image onto the plane of a piece of film or a digital sensor. Each element in the 'stack' of a lens is either there specifically to make the image hitting that sensor more accurate, or to correct for some inherent deficiency that has been introduced as a ...


7

Matt has already covered a number of options, which I won't try to repeat here. Unless I missed something, he did miss one possibility though: this is to use a relatively long lens on the camera, with a relatively short lens, reversed, in front of it. This is basically the same as the closeup-lens option Matt did mention, but instead of buying a new ...


7

You mention second hand, and I commend that choice, however I think it's worth noting that there are some at-least-relatively quite inexpensive (though perhaps over £30-40; I don't know the exchange rates off hand). One is the Vivitar 285HV (or I guess now these are the Cactus KF36) (or an old higher-voltage 285 or 283, and perhaps other models, second hand ...


7

Check out Nikon speedlights from the 1990s: SB-24 and SB-26. The lower the number, the cheaper. The higher the number, the more features. The SB-26 has a broader manual range, and the SB-28 has a built-in optical trigger. They have manual control, hotshoe and PC sync sockets, and are broadly compatible with Canon and Nikon DSRLs. Strobist on the Nikon ...


6

That is what a Camera Finder is for. There are 7 current DSLRs with a rotating display. Those do exactly what you ask for twisting away from the camera body rather than simply tilting up and down as some articulated displays do. For a specific recommendation, the truth is that they are all good, particularly if you cannot tell the difference. Newer ones ...


4

Shooting indoor fast action is hard enough with a dSLR, asking that from a medium-price point and shoot is quite much. At least try to get a front row seat, so you would not have to amplify blur with a long focal length. If you only need to shoot one event, you could rent a dSLR with a fast tele lens for considerably less than your budget. You could also ...


4

"Cheapest" is easy to answer: the Rokinon 500mm f/8.0 (also sold under the Samyang or Walimex brands), and for a beginner, it might even be the best, to gain experience more than to make great photos, because it's really not a good lens at all (is anyone surprised, at a $200 price point?): horribly slow, manual focus, comparatively low optical quality. But ...


4

To follow up on Genius' reply, DP Review had a Waterproof Camera Group Test last year. It tells you a bit more than just the comparison page, and from there you can easily check how the new models since then have improved. I've quickly skimmed the article, and it appears that John Cavan's suggestion of an Optio is quite a good one - the W60 is the runner up ...


3

In photography, as in everything, you get what you pay for. What you'll see from cheaper products in general is more chromatic shifting, loss of contrast, more blurriness, etc. However, it will still probably give you the desired effect, and if it's something you don't often use, you might consider it, so...


3

Check out the Go Pro cameras. They're marketed as wearable/mountable (e.g. on a surfboard, helmet, car, boat), waterproof sports cameras. A friend just got one for a trip to Antartica (I can let you know in about 3 weeks when he gets back if it survived ;). He's used it successfully in the surf and on a kayak and is generally pretty happy with it. They are ...


3

open DPreview Compare (or any similar digital camera comparison page) fill the form with: Format = "Compact" or "Waterproof" Live View = "Yes" () Image Stabilization = "Yes" (even if photo quality doesn't matter for you) Only current = "Don't mind" choose your one (there should be a few pages of comparison). Prices are listed there also. I heard that ...


3

If all you care for is the ability to control flash power (i.e, no zoom or fancy digital games like stroboscope), then there is another alternative to manual flash: use the cheapest flash you can find with ND gels! You can buy these gels in sheets and cut to the size of your flash head, and if the reduction is not enough, then stack a few of them. This ...


3

For my flash I use the wide rubber band with Velcro on it approach to hold stuff in place. Something like this... (argh, hopeless URL; just google for the term "flash velcro rubber band" without quotes, the first one is a reference to a page with a Gary Fong whaletail setup which is the page I mean) It works well enough for me, though I haven't used it for ...


3

A lot of cameras can be controlled from a computer. Not sure if every camera out there can, but at least in my experience, every camera I used did. I'm sure about DSLRs: all the DSLR cameras from Nikon, Canon and Pentax have such features. I also know for sure that Canon DSLRs are sold with EOS Utility, that allows you to control the camera from your ...


2

Starting with the required DLSR settings to take an aurora photo and working back, we can see what would be needed for a compact camera to capture such a picture. A clear aurora photo would use an exposure of around 5-10s at f/4 with ISO 1600 - this is obviously dependent on the intensity of the aurora, so is only a guide. If you apply the limits found on ...


1

This is fundamentally impossible equation, but what I would at least try to get is a physically big sensor. Not all 200-300 currency unit cameras have identical sensors, and when it comes to capturing as much light as possible in brief moment, physical size cannot be beat. Another thing to look at is level of noise on high ISO values.


1

1) For inconspicuousness in street photography, waist level shooting seems to be an effective technique; so you'll need an articulating screen to be able to compose before shooting from hip. 2) The whole idea of "point and shoot" is that you can point it at something and click button to shoot an image, so I don't think simplicity will be a problem unless ...


1

I got my young daughter a cheap Olympus Stylus Tough 6000. It wins on cheapness (I paid $115, I believe) and on ruggedness, but the optics and sensor leave a lot to be desired. I'd rate the photo quality somewhere around "camera phone". I don't know about recent Pentax models, but (although I love my Pentax DSLR!) Pentax's record with P&S cameras has ...


1

Another tip could be using reverse rings, that allows you to mount a regular 50mm lens as a macro lens. I never used it myself, but know people that do and I it seems it's a bit hard to focus. http://www.alanwood.net/photography/reversing-rings.html http://www.diyphotography.net/diy_reverse_macro_ring Samples: ...



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