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1

Most low-cost (say < US$50/set) flash radio triggers do not support eTTL or HSS. They are "manual-only" triggers. It the triggers/flash only have a single contact/pin they're definitely manual-only, because that big contact/pin in the center of the hotshoe "square" is the sync signal and that's the only signal that can physically be communicated. There ...


1

I am sorry, I have just made a typical mistake. I had not tried to erase all configuration data in the camera before asking (with the option in the menu). I though I had tried changing every related option but it seems I left one of them. Just restoring the configuration to preset values has made it magicly work. In the end I still don't know why it ...


0

Does this camera support back-button autofocus? The reported behavior matches what my 6d does, sort of—I have it set to move AF from the shutter button to a button on the back, but green box overrides that setting and puts AF back on the shutter button.


0

Are you shooting in Live View? If so, to focus you should press the AE Lock button <*> on the back of the camera. Half pressing the shutter will not activate Auto Focus in Live View. If you are shooting using Live View and have Custom Function C.Fn-7 set to 0: Disable neither a half press of the shutter nor pressing the AE Lock button <*> will ...


0

Autofocus works when you turn on the AF on your lens and hold the shutter button half way down and let the camera do the trick. Have you tried that?


1

A quick answer that should really help,I hope. "If" you really think you're going seriously take up photography remember you get what you pay for. That really is the case with photography equipment. However, also remember any entry level DSLR will do a fantastic job for you until you get to understand the equipment. The actual camera body is the cheapest ...


5

First off, you may want to read: Are there disadvantages to a prosumer camera for a beginner, aside from cost? To get a sense of why your friend mentioned a prosumer model to you, over an base-line entry-level camera. sidenote: Vari-angle LCDs: Also, realize that the vari-angle LCD is not unique to the prosumer model, but can also be found on Canon's ...


2

It's almost certainly a co-incidence. Adaptability of foreign lenses wasn't a big thing back then in the SLR world (it was more common with medium format cameras). The simple reason for this was that camera bodies were much cheaper as they were essentially just light tight boxes with a shutter, mirror and viewfinder (you might get electronic metering or an ...


6

If you read Canon's public statements at the time the EOS system/EF mount was introduced in the late 1980's, they spoke of the longer 44mm registration distance and larger diameter flange of the EF mount, when compared to their existing FD mount that had a registration distance of 42mm, as leaving room for future capabilities. If they had been concerned with ...


6

Yes, you may use the MP-E 65mm lens on a Canon T3. No, you do not need any adapters. Just realize that the MP-E 65 is a different type of lens than what you are probably used to. Not only is it a manual focus only lens, but at each magnification setting there is only a single distance the lens is capable of focusing. The way most users focus is to set the ...


2

You haven't given many details, but I have a strong suspicion of what is wrong. Your camera is set to take pictures in RAW. It happens that for this model, RAW isn't available in the full-auto/scene modes, so in that case, it falls back to saving JPEG files. There are two basic ways to resolve this. One would be to leave your camera as-is and use software ...


2

As others have alluded to here, one possibility is to underexpose the (bright) ambient light and then add enough fill flash to your subject to achieve a sort of day-to-night effect that may be what you are aiming for. Try setting -3 stops of ambient exposure compensation and +1 stop of flash exposure compensation (or equivalent manual exposure settings) and ...


2

All the shots that I took had a bright background If you were shooting at f/33, 1/250s, ISO 100 and still getting a bright background then it's a good bet that it's your flash that's lighting up the background. To get a dark background, you need to arrange things so that the flash that's lighting your subject doesn't also light the background. You can ...


2

It's a common misconception that "low key" means "lack of light". This is not true. "Low key" means the vast majority of the tones in the scene are darker than middle gray and is independent of illumination. For instance a photograph of a dark skinned man in dark clothing against a black wall would be very low key even if photographed in broad daylight. I ...


3

No, not really. All the current Canon dSLRs that are less expensive than a 70D will have video and wifi capability in them. And if you go back for enough for a camera without those capabilities you're not getting the same sensor/image quality. The difference in pricing between the tiers comes down to the number of physical UI controls, menu selections, ...


5

You are not paying extra for video. According to this comparison chart the 1Ds3 was the last camera that does not have video and got released 2007. Looking explicitly for something that does not have a certain feature will make you pay more, especially if it's a mainstream feature. Using video or wifi is optional. If you think the 70D is the right camera ...


1

Perhaps you could use this online calculator to calculate an appropriate lens in your situation. For example, using the calculator, I can see that (on a full-frame/35" sensor) you'll probably need a lens that has a 20" equivalent focal length or less: To get this result I popped 20 feet in the distance input, and guessed at around 20mm for the focal ...


0

It is unlikely, but check the menu for a factory reset, use that if you find it, ( although i highly doubt that the SX500 has it) might have to take it in for repair, but in that case they mightvsay it is BER ( Beyond EconomicalRepair) how old is the camera?


0

As an answer points out, the rubber cover comes on the cheapo strap. I slide that off the ribbon ans just keep the "handle" wit the attached thingie. However, I just use the camera strap: not that nugget, but the shoulder bad and webbing of the strap I really use. I drape it around the apex of the camera so it hugs the viewfinder like it's the back of his ...


2

This topic has been covered before, therefore worth a visit Does a viewfinder cover really make a difference? Regarding specifically having a cover for the Canon 7D, it comes on the strap itself. If it is not on the strap, then check the camera box. Is it worth using this silicon cover? in my opinion, Not really! The problem is that you have to take off ...


3

On my camera there is a piece of silicone rubber on the Strap designed to do just this. You remove the mounted eyepiece and then put the silicon you have on your strap onto the camera. Is it Worth? Yes IF the light is coming from behind.


1

Weather resistant, which is what Canon and other manufacturers claim about their gear, can be a far cry from dust sealed. If you read Roger Cicala's blog you learn very quickly how little he regards the weather sealing claims of the camera makers. Here's the one about the fly inside a "weather sealed" lens. Also note his 1/25/2013 at 6:17 a.m. comment to ...


-1

Landscape and architecture involve (mainly) static objects, this means that you can use a high focal length lens with a small field of view to take pictures and then stitch those pictures together to compile an extremely high resolution picture of the desired object. A telephoto prime lens, like e.g. this one will then be the ideal sort of lens. You then ...


2

Choosing the "next lens" you need should be based upon a particular need that your current lenses are not capable of meeting. So in order to answer the question you must first ask yourself, "What kind of shots do I want to take that I am not able to take now?" Only then can you answer the question, "What lens will allow me to take those shots?"


4

Yes. Stop shopping; start shooting. The lenses you have are what most folks would already choose for landscapes, cityscapes, and street shooting. If you don't know what lens you should "upgrade" to, then chances are good, you're not ready to upgrade. You need more experience with the gear you do have. And it's when a specific frustration starts to eat ...


1

"Upgrade" is in the eye of the beholder. And learning to shoot fast-moving wildlife is not a skill you pick up overnight. Even with the gear. I would also point out that the Canon dSLR bodies tier by the number of digits in their model designation. A XXXXD is actually a downgrade from an XXXD, if you're looking at cameras in the same processor/sensor ...


1

No, you will not get the full functionality of the 600EX-RT/ST-E3-RT system with your XS. But you will get all the functionality you would have with the 430EXII or a 580EXII over optical--most notably, remote power control, eTTL, and high-speed sync. The Canon RT radio system added some functionality to the older optical triggering system that you can ...


1

You'll certainly be able to use ETTL with the 600EX-RT and ST-E3-RT. However, you won't be able to use the ST-E3-RT to control your 430EX II units, as it lacks optical triggering. You could use the 600EX-RT to control those 430EX II's optically, including using ETTL, but that kinda defeats the purpose of buying the radio-capable units. Some options: Skip ...


0

This problem seems to be wide spread. There are some advises in internet. Here is one of them (which seems to resolve the problem) from here: I was having the same issue on a Rebel XS - 3 years old, had been working fine... Would not take photos on AF... just beeped, clicked etc... MF it would take photos no problem (though I was not actually ...


0

As some have pointed out, it could be that your camera is somehow in E-TTL mode and triggering the strobes through the pre-flash. If so, make sure that your triggers are compatible with the 550D and that they're making a solid connection. Quite often, triggers can seem like they're attached properly when, in reality, they're not seated all the way (or ...


0

I believe a lot of cheaper hypersonic montors (HSM) [or USM for Canon glass] don't have great quality control and can produce that kind of noise. Likewise, I've personally had a Canon USM lens that was vibrated too much in a case emit that kind of noise, too. Your best bet would be to send the Sigma back for warranty service (or take it into a shop) to get ...


3

It seems several things are going on here at once. You seem new to using PDAF through the viewfinder of a DSLR. There is a learning curve involved. It is just as significant a learning curve as the one encountered when moving from a compact, small sensor camera that yields almost limitless depth of field to a larger sensor camera that means the depth of ...


0

I don't think I'd jump right to "broken". The basic explanation is that live view and the viewfinder put you into different focus systems — the viewfinder uses phase detect, and live view contrast detect. In general, phase detect is much faster but may not be as precise. So, one possibility is that the phase detect system just need to be better calibrated. ...


-1

The AF (autofocus) system in your camera body is broken/damaged. Live view does not use the same AF system which is why you're seeing a difference. You will need to take it to a professional service centre for repair, it's not something you could do for yourself. Given that the problem started when you first attached the youngnou lens it's entirely ...


0

If the lens is similar to the Sigma 18-250mm f/3.5-6.3 DC Macro OS HSM, it uses an ultrasonic (Hypersonic, in marketing parlance) motor for focusing. These motors can be smoother (less backlash or overshoot) than traditional electromagnet-based rotary motors, but apparently the "ultrasonic" ratcheting is not quite beyond your hearing range. This is nothing ...


1

Aside from the wireless P-TTL "smart" optical triggering with Pentax gear, the AF 360 FGZ has a "dumb" optical slave mode (Slave 2) built-in that works with any simple flash burst (read: will work with any brand camera gear). Set the 7D's pop-up flash into M mode (to avoid sending out an eTTL pre-flash), and it should trigger the AF 360 to fire in sync. You ...


5

Canon manufactures no lenses in the USA. The "US" versions of each Canon lens model are made in the same plant that all of the rest of that same lens model is produced and are physically identical within a particular production run. To the best of my knowledge, all Canon EOS lenses have the country where they are assembled printed on either the front or rear ...


-1

From what I find all Canon lenses are manufactured in Japan. You can check this web site to check where exactly and when they are manufactured Second source


0

You could pick up a set of cheap radio triggers, or you could take David Hobby's advice and use some 1/8" adapters and a long cable with male 1/8" connectors on each end.


1

If you need to remotely control the power of the 320EX, then you have two choices: Canon's near-infrared wireless system, which would require that you get a 550EX, 580EX, 580EXII, 600EX-RT or ST-E2 to put on the 6D's hotshoe; or you get TTL-capable radio triggers that allow for remote power control through the 6D's hotshoe (e.g., Yongnuo YN-622C triggers). ...


1

Lens Manufacturers such as Sigma and Tamron make the same lens for various different camera manufacturers, however, each lens mount is different and is dedicated exclusively to that camera manufacturer. In other words, if you wish to purchase a Sigma 18-200mm Lens for a Canon, then you need to buy a Sigma Lens with a Canon Mount I.E- EF or EF-S Fit. The ...


4

Reduce the image size. You surely don't want your customers to download dozens of 18 megapixel images just to see spinning products. That won't be the kind of user experience that makes people reach for their wallets. And if you don't need all that resolution, you don't need to record it all in the first place. Try smaller images. Use an intervalometer to ...


-1

I'm going to argue for video (even though you explicitly say you can't use it). With a video, there is plenty of software that allows you to pull a single frame from the video and turn it into a JPEG. I believe Windows Movie Maker allows you to do it and VLC should as well. First, let's talk about the problems with this method and then we'll talk about the ...


1

Go to The-digital-Picture.com, search for Canon 50mm f1.8 STM review, click on "Image Quality". This web page will let you see the images of a resolution chart as taken with the selected lens. You can choose what camera body, the focal length (if it's a zoom lens), the f-stop, and a different image will be shown. You can choose another lens on the right ...


1

Check if you shoot in JPG or RAW mode. This is important as RAW files usually are bugger than JPEG and it take more time processor in camera to write them to storage card. So switch to JPEG Check if you shoot in burst mode. If you shoot in this more the buffer (very fast memory in camera) will be filled fast and processor will try to write the files to ...


2

Sounds to me like the camera is shooting RAW and hitting the buffer limit. Try setting the image quality option to JPEG fine instead and see if that fixes it.


1

The 600EX-RT and 430EX III-RT both work with optical triggering and the newer radio triggering system (although you can only use one system at a time). Chapter 5 in the 600EX-RT manual(pdf) covers setting the 600EX-RT up as either master or slave using optical control. There manual for the 430EX III-RT isn't available yet, but the product page tells us: ...


2

I read that my Canon Speedlite 430EXII could only be used as a slave on my new 5D Mark 3 and that I should buy a new flash. That's simply wrong. Any Canon EX-series speedlight (and many third party flashes) will work just fine with your 5Dmk3 provided you use them on camera, or off camera with the right cable. Your 430EXII is a great flash -- it's ...


2

THe 430EXII works fine with the 5D3 on-camera. All the features are supported, including controlling the flash settings through the camera menu (as opposed to on the flash directly, which is also supported). The "slave" element you are referring to is as follows: when you want to use several flashes, one on the camera and one or more off-camera, the flash ...


1

is the camera shake introduced by the slapping shutter in Canon's default firmware enough to notice or worry about All AEB does is to set up a sequence of 3 shots with different exposures. Camera shake between exposures won't affect your images. Camera shake during a single exposure could obviously be a problem, but it's no different than when you're ...



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