Forgotten in its old age

by Aditya

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0

Yes, it is only matter of a step-up ring. If you want to try before buying a thing, do a hand-held test. It is really easy and strightforward, specially if you have a tripod, but if you don't, a table and a bean bag is just fine. Set up your new camera in any mode you wish, and make a few test shots to have a base to compare. Then hand-hold the filters ...


0

The Olympus E-10 is not a system camera since its lens is fixed to the body. I guess that your wide angle, micro, macro and telephoto lenses are all of the screw on type for the lens filter thread since you mention the step ring. If so you can use them with other lenses on other cameras. The fact that you want to use them specifically on the Canon T3i is ...


1

It may be physically possible, but there's the question of if you really want to. IIRC, the E-10 accessory lenses will have been optimized for the E-10's lens. Using them on other lenses will probably give poor results. But hey, a step up ring is only a couple of bucks, so go ahead and try, and let us know how it worked out. BTW, I think the macro lens will ...


-2

Just got my new L series today. I have owned another L series for several years, and a couple regular lenses for years before that. I have used both the L series and the regular lens to photograph a wedding recently. In my opinion, the L series really generates pictures that make it seem as though you are right there in the moment when you are looking at ...


3

I've published a plugin recently which does what you are looking for: http://www.lightroomfocuspointsplugin.com It currently works in Lightroom 5, currently for all Canon + Nikon DSLR, additional cameras will be added in the future. Works on Mac and Windows. Hope it helps.


1

For taking pictures of the Milky Way, you probably want to go reading through the milky-way tag here on photo.SE. To do a timelapse, you want an intervalometer of some kind, which can automate taking repeated shots at a set interval. There are several types. Some cameras have them built in to the software (the 100D doesn't; although there may be a Magic ...


0

Yes it should not be a problem. You may want to have a look at something like a remote shutter control. This way you can control the length/time the shutter should remain open while taking the photo Also, it will be a lot easier to capture the milky way if there is not a lot of ambient light around (like city lights). Have a look on Amazon or some retail ...


0

I bought a 24-70mm f4 because I do macro shots (I'm a dentist). In addition to other information already mentioned, the 24-70 f/4 has a wider aperture, which means that it makes better pictures in environments with little light. And according to the tests, it has a better result in your entire field of zoom. In short: 24-105 is good for travels and ...


0

This really comes down to a personal choice: whether you prefer the constant aperture and slightly better center of frame sharpness of the 17-50 or the extra reach and better sharpness on the edges and in the corners of the 17-70. For the outdoor stuff the reach of the 17-70 is probably a little better, but for the family photos (especially indoors) the ...


2

No. Since some of the optics of the Canon 1.4X and 2X extenders extend into the back of the lens attached to them, they are only compatible with specific lenses. No EF-S lenses are compatible with any version of the Canon Extenders. Here is a link to the list of Canon lenses compatible with Canon extenders. Note that the only lenses with focal lengths ...


3

No it is not going to work with the EF-S 18-135mm. I don't know of any EF-S lenses that the 2x extender works with. The lenses are too close to the body and would interfere with the area that the extender takes up. More info on why only certain lenses work with the extenders can be found here: Why can only certain Canon lenses be fitted with an extender? ...


0

The Kenko Pro 300 1.4x TC says it will not work with an EF-S lens like the 55-250. Everything I've read says the 2x is the same. So, regardless of AF issues, I'd say this is a no go.


1

I have the exact same kit as you (T4i/650; 50mm 1.8, 18-55mm). I also have the 430EX II. I would purchase the 430 EX II as it gives you more capability and power. I primarily focus on family pictures and portraits for family and friends, and the 430 EX II with swivel head, etc., is perfect for my needs. I may upgrade to a more powerful flash in the future if ...


0

I really don't know what you people are talking about when you say the image quality will suffer. I have a T2i and a Canon FD 50mm 3.5 macro lens I adapted to it using an adapter with a glass element in it and the photos I take with it could not be any sharper, whether they be macro or regular distance shots! I have perfect 20/20 vision and some of my macro ...


2

Unlike a flash unit, these on-camera LED panels will typically stay lit, allowing you to compose your shot and adjust your camera's settings accordingly. You can buy LED lighting units such as these at many online retailers, such as Amazon or B&H Photo. There are many highly rated yet cost effective offerings at either of those links. Make sure to read ...


1

Just FYI, Strobist refers to David Hobby's Strobist blog, where most of us learned how to do off-camera flash. If you really want to use this flash off-camera, consider that optical slaving to your 650D's pop-up flash has some limitations. They may not come into play with food photography, but if you end up shooting outdoors on location in bright sunlight, ...


2

Based on your description, I'd go with the 430EX II if the price difference is minimal. The main selling point of the 320EX is the video light, if you don't need the LED light on the front, the only reason to get it over the more powerful and capable 430EX II would be cost, but you indicated that the cost is pretty close where you were looking. The "remote ...


3

If I read all your facts correct (thinks you need and don´t need) there is no real difference for you and 320EX remote control feature is only one which interests you (maybe). So seems to be that you would be happy with this 320EX. BUT if you want do shoot off camera and/or with light modifiers (gels, softbox, … can reduce the effecive power significant) ...


1

if you look in the sips-Manpage there is no way to force exporting of 8 or 16 bit. That's the answer: there is no way to do this with sips. Is there any reason for using sips, instead of Lightroom or Aperture, which have great batch modes too?


0

How much time has passed since you bought the lens? How do you know it was damaged through shake? Is it noticeable externally? If it looks damaged on the outside you may forget your warranty. If not, activate the warranty and wait for a free repair. I guess it's always repairable, since they can fully replace the lens' motor. It only depends how much you ...


-1

Any wired remotes that are compatible with canon cameras will work. Look for one that can lock. I found mine new for less than $15. If you don't want to spend the money, look for an old wired cell phone headset with a 2.5mm stereo jack. cut the wire as far from the jack as possible and strip the end of the wire. Most headphone wires have three wires, each ...


0

It really all depends on where you are. I would avoid using a camera retailer, because they usually send the gear to the manufacturer. If you're anywhere near Michigan, I'd recommend either Oakland Photographic Repair or Midwest Camera Repair. Midwest RARELY ships gear to other facilities, and they do repairs in a timely manner. Oakland Photographic Repair ...


1

Your camera and lens are almost certainly beyond repair. For future reference, here is my approach. It's happened a few times with various items of electronic equipment. Sometimes it works, sometimes not. "All care, no responsibility". Remove all batteries and other power source immediately. You have seconds at best in most cases. A main LiIon battery must ...


2

This may help. It's not exactly what you wanted to hear but it's probably better than what the camera shop has advised. How to remove a stuck Canon 50mm 1.8 lens from your camera Note that this may not be what has happened in your case, but it sounds very similar. He says - What happens is that there is a snap on plastic dust cover on the mount end of ...


4

At this point, probably, the best bet would have been to submerge it completely in distilled water after the initial incident and then place it in either dry rice or with a bunch of silica gel packets after to suck out the moisture. The point of the distilled water is to remove any salt or other mineral deposits that might cause damage and then the dry rice ...


9

Salt water is certainly one of the easiest way to destroy a camera. The salt can cause corrosion which is impossible to undo. I would avoid connecting anything to it as an internal short-circuit can damage the other item. Something similar happened to me once where flash reader fell. I wanted to see if it still works, so I put in a Compact Flash card which ...


0

Choosing a portable camera-battery charger. These answers apply choosing aportable charger for any camera: 5V USB input would be useful for portable use. 12V input to allow operation from either a car power socket or mains to 12 VDC plug pack would be useful. If it has AC mains input capability then allowing "universal" operation from any AC mains ...


0

Depending on how much light you have, you can probably get good results with an f/1.8 lens. I assume you're using the kit lens. Otherwise, try flash.


3

Yes, there are adapters with full function (the pretty expensive Metabones adapter springs to mind) so you'll have aperture control, but the AF performance won't be anything near what you're used to on EOS mount. To quote from their website for the Mk III EOS->E adapter: Autofocus is supported, with the following known limitations. Autofocus speed ...


1

Roger Cicala of lensrentals.com is less than enthusiastic about converters in general, http://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2013/09/there-is-no-free-lunch-episode-763-lens-adapters, and if you follow the link you'll see why- they can very often reduce image quality, even though they have no glass elements in them.



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