Sunset in Kruger

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0

If you put the same lens at the same aperture on a full frame and APS-H camera, you will need to get closer to the subject with the full frame to have the subject the same size. As such, the depth of field in the resultant image will be shallower. If you take both shots from the spot the depth of field will be identical, but the subject will be smaller on ...


0

Amazingly, user37928's description helped me work out a solution. I figured that if you added a lens protector to the lens, it would be at the extreme outside end of the lens. So I turned the end of the lens a bit with the camera off, both directions. I felt the servo (motor that drives the focus of the lens) click - now it is free and can again ...


0

Beside of an external device like an itervalometer, there is also an interesting project, which extends the features of the camera. It is called Magic Lantern. Magic Lantern is a firmware for the camera, which is booted from the SD card. It provides features like a build in intervalometer and raw video functionality (an much much more). At the moment it is ...


2

If you have Magic Lantern installed you can check the shutter count on your 60D. All you need to do is install Magic Lantern on your EOS, press MENU and then DISP. The shutter count will appear at the bottom of the screen. Another way to find the shutter count on many EOS models, including the 60D, is to use EOSInfo. You can download it from the developer's ...


0

You should buy another camera only if the limitations of your present camera are holding you back. Are they? You mentioned in your question that you see the limits of your present camera. What exactly are they? As it stands, your question is vague. Don't buy an SLR because you think it will last. As long as your present camera meets your needs, it lasts ...


0

I would like a nice camera that will last! Just because you pay more for a dSLR than a bridge camera doesn't necessarily mean it's going to last you any longer. Mostly, a more expensive camera simply means more features to play with while you have it. Unlike film SLRs, these devices are no longer mainly mechanical. These are digital electronics. ...


0

An SLR is an investment and a kit. You will replace the body as time goes on, but you want to buy good lenses so those won't have to replace those (especially considering their price). There is also a large image quality difference between your PowerShot and the 100D. The 100D can shoot in raw (think "digital negative") and can allow you to upgrade ...


1

There is a way to connect the camera to a wall plug: the Canon ACK-DC40 AC adapter kit. The Canon USA website lists it as being compatible with the Powershot S120.


1

Depends on what method of slaving we're talking about and your definition of reliable. If you mean as a dumb optical slave, where the main flash burst from the 600EX-RT can trigger the flash, then all of the YN flashes have "dumb" slave modes on them. If you mean as a wireless eTTL near-infrared optical slave, then any of the Yongnuo flashes with EX in the ...


2

The Yongnuo YN600EX-RT is pretty much a clone of the Canon 600EX-RT and can be used as either master or slave in combination with it.


0

If you have a Canon camera that shoots RAW, you should be able to download Digital Photo Professional for free from the Canon website. It's good software - I used it exclusively for three years before moving to Lightroom, and I notice that DPP has had some additional tools added to it since then. You shouldn't have to have the original install disks to do ...


1

If this is like every other Canon camera, Av exposes for ambient, and uses the Flash for fill. P assumes the foreground is the subject, so it exposes for that. For your Av photo, the camera found the subject very dark, so pushed to get as much light as possible, However, the fill flash was close to the subject, so it is over exposed. You can see that the ...


1

If you look towards the front element it will say STM:


0

The lens does have not an aperture range from f/4.5 to f/6.3. when apertures are quoted for lenses, it's just the widest/maximum that they can go, as this has a big impact on the performance of the lens. There's no restriction (within reason) as to how small they can go (f/22, f/32 etc). With zoom lenses, it's normal that their maximum aperture will change ...


1

f/4.5 - f/6.3 is only the wide open aperture. It varies from f/4.5 at 50mm to f/6.3 at 500mm. You can select f/8 or f/11 or f/22 anytime you want at any focal length. At 50mm you can select f/4.5 but if you zoom to 500mm, the aperture will automatically jump to f/6.3 No you can't hurt the lens by selecting f/22. It is designed to operate that way.


1

The STM version is better because it has faster, smoother AF, and the front element does not rotate. The optics are also improved which gives you better image quality. The STM focus ring is active during Auto Focus and you can small manual adjustments to focus. This is called Full Time Manual Focus. The STM version also has a much nicer EW-63C lens hood. ...


1

It is a simple fact that Canon cameras with Magic Lantern installed have a slower start-up time. There is nothing you can do to improve the start-up time.


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These are the Canon lenses which can use "B" tripod rings: (the "B(W)" or "B(B)" are interchangeable and only differ in color) EF 70-200mm 2.8L EF 70-200mm 2.8L IS EF 70-200mm 2.8L IS II EF 100-400L EF 100mm 2.8 USM Macro [required adapter is included with B(B)] EF 180mm 3.5 Macro, EF MP-E 65mm 2.8 Macro


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Since you have tested the lens on a T2i, the problem is mostly with the older body. Get it serviced. I guess, there must be some discrepancies with the lens contacts on the XS body.


0

It's personal preference really. The 700D is a great camera and better than the 1200D in my opinion. Here is the comparison for both the Canon 1200D and the Canon 700D http://snapsort.com/compare/Canon-EOS-1200D-vs-Canon-EOS-700D. A good website for second-hand camera gear is MPBPhotographic. I would also pop in to your nearest camera/electronics store to ...


0

Magic Lantern is a 3rd party software for Canon Cameras. Because of this, all the software builds are experimental and sometimes unstable. This can make it very hard to diagnose why it "responds more slowly than usual". To try and fix the responsiveness issues I would try the following: 1. Completly restore the Camera using the original firmware and then ...


1

You can check if the image files are present on the card by going to: My Computer, Your Card Name, DCIM You should now be able to see one or more folders. All the photos you have taken should be stored in these folders. From here you can select all the images and drag and drop them into your computer. As said above some of your images may be in RAW format ...


3

You should also be able to see this same scale in the viewfinder. What that scale represents, in part, depends on what shooting mode your camera is in. If you are in an automated mode (Av/Tv/P/Auto, the scene modes, etc), then it acts as an exposure compensation scale. It is marked off in exposure values (EV), or stops. Dialing it to the + side of the ...


0

If you select the last ETTL setting (press mode button 6 times after switching the flash on) and then just press the + button twice, it enables high speed flash. You can make sure its on by checking your flash settings in the menu of your camera.


3

Shutter lag of the XTi Measurements by Luk at doc-diy.net show this camera has an average* 116mS lag without mirror lockup, and a 66mS lag with mirror lockup. Fast pinewood derby cars travel about 10 feet per second (3 m/s), leading to a 7-14" (18-36cm) travel time before the image is captured. While the camera would never be used for judging, this is long ...


3

Rather than using the photo transfer utility that came on your laptop, try using Canon's EOS Utility that came on the software CD with your camera. Once installed, you can download free updates from Canon's T3i support page. Files that are saved in raw format with an extension of .cr2 may not be recognized as photos by the generic import utility it sounds ...


2

The XTi has a bit of shutter lag of somewhere between 1/5 and 1/4 of a second, even when fully manual (including meter, white balance and focus). Pinewood derby races are about 4-5 seconds over the 50 foot tracks. To account for the shutter lag you may need to place the sensor about a foot or two (+/-) ahead of the finish line. Try to use a wider angle lens ...


0

Keep the T3i and invest in lenses and a solid tripod. And maybe filters. And shoot RAW so that you can have access to full dynamic range for post processing. The free Canon software is useful, though not the simplest. The T3i already has LiveView, which will allow for generally better (imho) pictures through slower composition and contrast auto-focus. I ...


1

Most folks will advise that you get glass before a new body. Part of this is for simple financial reasons. A good lens tends to hold value better and for longer than a digital body. dSLR bodies, like all digital electronics, tend to depreciate rapidly, even when they're new. And you tend to flip through them at roughly the same rate you'd flip through ...


2

So thinking logically about your question, both the Canon T3i and the 70D are both APS-C cameras and 18mp against the 20mp of the 70D means there's nothing in it, 5472 x 3648 70D against 5184 x 3456 T3i(aka 600D) image resolution. Both cameras are equally capable of taking an excellent quality photograph! After all it's the person behind the camera that ...


3

I think that you are doing most if not all of the right things to ensure that you are capturing the image in camera as fast as possible. The obvious ones you have done; turn off AF and use manual mode. Beyond that I would look at your shutter release methods. It sounds like the sensor is may be placed at "the finish line", where as it might benefit your ...


3

Did you shoot some pics in RAW by any chance? If so they may not be recognized. Check and see if you have any *.CR2 (I believe that this is the extension for Canon RAW files) files on your memory card folder.


3

Without the 70D, you cannot print that image that little bit larger. Without the 10-18mm, you cannot get that image at all. Remember: This does not hold true in general. The 70D might as well be the key equipment required to get a certain shot, but that shot will not be a landscape shot.


0

If you are seriously into this sort of photography, have you considered picking up a used EOS-1Ds mark II or a 5D MK 1 or 2? I have 1Ds II and despite being 13 years old, its image quality (with good glass - I have the 17-40L and the 24-105l) is outstanding and at 17Mp, the resolution is good too and the cameras are cheap to buy. Having said that, when I ...


1

Sharpness (measured by careful manual focusing in a lab environment) is important, but remember with a wedding lens AF consistency is equally important. Sharpness: The Tamron is a sharp lens, but it is not quite as sharp as the EF 24-70mm f/2.8 L II. From DxO Mark (click the Measurements tab, then sharpness and profiles and play around with various focal ...


1

The Sigma 12-24 is a full frame lens. On a crop sensor camera like the 70D, it will have similar field of view as a (12 x 1.6= ) 19.2 to (24 x 1.6= ) 38.4 mm lens. You might compare this to shots taken with other lenses near this full-frame length. Comparing this to an 18-55 might help, as you will get a sense of the middle range of the Sigma lens on the ...


1

I preordered a canon 5dsr but I was wondering if the lens Tamron SP AF Di VC USD 24 - 70 mm will be good with that camera? Summary: You are liable to be happy with this lens on most counts if you are happy with the 24-70 mm zoom range and f/2.8 constant aperture. According to DxO, you cannot get a sharper zoom in the 2X mm - 7Xmm f/2.8 class, although ...


2

No, you have to have another RT unit on the camera hotshoe to use the remote shutter release capability of Canon's 2012-and-later cameras. The built-in flash cannot work for this, as it has no RF capability--only optical (i.e., it blinks out light signals, but can't blip out/receive radio signals). It might be easier to just get cheap radio triggers to be ...


2

As this graph shows, the main differences between Canon and Nikon(Sony) sensors only really show up at low ISO: but at low ISO you can't really see the difference, not without post processing a RAW file. Here is the best post i could find demonstrating this (big) difference: Nikon DX vs Canon APS-C Now this difference will not matter to a lot of people ...


2

I don't think there's any way you're going to achieve this without additional gear of some kind--most probably a wireless shutter release (remote). You could use an infrared remote (e.g., RC-6), for which the T3i and 70D both have a built-in sensor (it's that circular dot at the top of the grip). Or, if you're a Strobist, simple flash radio triggers would ...


0

As others have pointed out, any EF lens should work on modern EOS digital SLR's. One thing to keep in mind, though, is that they will only look about the same on Full Frame digital SLR's, e.g. 1D, 5D or 6D series, because the sensor in those cameras is similar in size to the size of film exposed in a 35mm film camera. On other cameras, "APS-C" or "crop ...


1

If you think the motor is only working in one direction, you might try to test the theory by focusing in live mode. If it's like mine, it will usually go back and forth to home in on the sharpest focus (using contrast rather than phase detection), so if the motor is only working in one direction it will probably not be able to focus in live mode. Of ...


2

Since both the camera and your computer are displaying the same file, the problem likely isn't in the way your applications, EOS Utility 2 and Lightroom 3, are handling the files. The issue is most likely in the way the camera's display system and the computer's display system are handling the files. You can't do much about the camera's display system, ...


1

My Jessops 360 AFDN got stuck on a Nikon D90. I tried almost everything mentioned above, except taking it to an authorised dealer. In the end I disassembled the flash to get it off.


5

Since Canon introduced the EOS system in 1987, all EOS EF mount lenses will work on all EOS EF (full frame, APS-H) or EF-S (APS-C) mount bodies. This means they will be functional in terms of automatic metering and auto focus. What field of view each lens will yield on a digital body depends on the size of that camera's sensor. For a closer look at that ...


3

Those are all Canon EF mount lenses. They will work with any current Canon DSLR, but are so old you may desire newer versions with newer technology.


1

The current standard kit lens with the SL1 appears to be the STM version which means, among other things, that the camera has to be powered on and ready to shoot (not sleeping) for manual focus to respond. Essentially it's a "focus-by-wire" system, where there isn't a direct physical connection between the focus ring and the actual lens elements, instead ...


2

The question of Rowland Shaw is a pertinent one. The battery level indeed seems to have an impact on the size of an individual focussing step. At least, that was my observation when I was trying to automate landscape focus stacking with Magic Lantern. As my first objective was to simply count the number of steps of a full throw (i.e. from close to infinity), ...


1

Yes. Download a copy of Canon's Digital Photo Professional from the Canon website (at least in the US). Canon has changed their download policy and now grants access to the full installers, rather than just updaters. You no longer have to have the original disk to download the software utilities that come in the box with the camera. You simply need the ...


0

Yes it's better to take to some camera repair store. Fixing shutter speed is not easy task and may require adjusting springs tension inside the camera. If you want to know how off is your shutter speed there are shutter speed tester apps for both Android and iOS and there are actual devices that range from cheap ones $100 to couple of hundreds. Calumet used ...



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