Lunch atop a (Springfield) skyscraper

Lunch atop a (Springfield) skyscraper
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0

I have the rebel T5 for over a year, I have clean it myself and its a pain I tell you my first rebel clean itself. This is the only thing I don't like about this rebel. Dust gathers up a lot if you are changing lens.


5

Does it film video? No. I used a Rebel XT/350D for a long time, and I can tell you that it does not record video. It was a great camera for learning, but it's about 11 years old at this point and has been far surpassed by its successors in the Rebel line. The first Canon Rebel model to officially support video was the Rebel T1i/500D, and every model ...


0

"If it isn't saving to the card when you put it in, either the card reader (in the camera) is dead, the card reader on your computer is dead, the memory card isn't formatted, or the memory card isn't compatible with your camera..." Um, you left out some of the other causes... like bugs in the camera firmware that can be triggered by unhandled software ...


1

When in manual mode, the meter changes if the amount of light being metered changes. This can be due to camera movement that includes more bright or more dark areas in the part of the scene being metered. To compensate you need to manually change either the shutter speed. aperture value, or ISO. When you have modified the exposure settings to allow proper ...


-2

Using manual, even the slightest movement of the camera causes the meter to fluctuate (even using evaluative). This isn't as dependable as using one of the "auto" modes as AV. Because it can easily be thrown off by a bright patch of light in one small area of the scene. So, a truer middle grey is only achieved using the T.V. or A.V. modes since all of the ...


2

In automatic modes the scale is not displaying exposure. It's instead showing you the amount of exposure compensation you have dialled in. Only in manual mode does it actually work like an exposure meter. So if your exposure compensation is set to zero the meter will not move at all. The meter reading is fluctuating in the automatic modes. It's just not ...


0

There is a good option now, using a Canon EOS M camera (which sensor is closer to the rim) and something like the FOTGA Canon FD Mount Lens to Canon EOS M EF-M Mirrorless Camera adapter ring. No glass and with infinite focus. dream come true.


2

I notice that using AV or TV mode that the meter sets itself to an "average" grey automatically smack in the middle. But using Manual mode, it fluctuates alot no matter what metering i.e. evaluative, spot etc, setting i use. With Av or Tv modes, the camera adjusts shutter speed or aperture, respectively, to achieve a good exposure based on the metering ...


4

From what you write I have three suggestions to make more consistent photos Set white balance to some value, this will help you to mitigate colour casts Set focus to manual and focus to particular point (also get in consideration to change aperture to have appropriate depth of field) Set flash to manual to some value, which is fine for your purpose P.S. ...


3

My lens will not go below 40mm, it will not get to 24mm. Any ideas are welcomed me please. Don't try to force it. Send it to Canon for service.


2

Auto Lighting Optimizer is one potential culprit, but it is pretty easy to rule that out. The Auto(Basic Zone) mode will default ALO to Standard, so just change your ALO setting to standard in Av and run a test. My guess is that your issue is actually the metering mode though. The Auto(Basic Zone) mode will use Evaluative Metering. Check to make sure your ...


3

The answer for you and the situation you have outlined hinges on the answer to the question, "How good is good enough?" The corollary to that question is, "How much more are you able and willing to spend to get just a little bit better?" And perhaps most importantly, "Do you have or are you willing to obtain the knowledge and skill to take advantage of those ...


3

I do use manual focus. The blurring you experience can come from several facts: Depending on the light conditions, you may not be very precise in focusing: your image may just be a little bit out of focus. This is typically the case in your sample image where the focus is in front of the head. As your sample is a macro photo, remember that in macro the ...


12

Disclaimer: I am not a Canon shooter, nor have I owned Canon gear before. This appears to be a 300mm ƒ/2.8L USM (non IS) lens, produced from 1987 to 1999. The best collection of images, review, and information about this particular Canon lens I could find is: 300mm ƒ/2.8L at kenrockwell.com. Searching for this threw me off, because if you go to the Lens ...


1

The best answer I could find to this by googling was a "Pick and Place" blog article where the author describes what he's discovered about the EF-S mount connections: https://pickandplace.wordpress.com/2011/10/05/canon-ef-s-protocol-and-electronic-follow-focus/ It looks like you send signals on DIN's rising edge (DIN is the middle of the five small ...


2

The Canon CL 8-120mm f/1.4-2.1 lens was designed to be used with the Canon EX1/EX2 Hi8 Video Camera with a VL mount. Canon also had a EOS to VL mount adapter so EF lenses could be used on these cameras. I would expect the pin arrangement should be the same as for an EF lens. The bad news is that the sensor size for the Canon EX1 was 1/2" which is ...


3

NB: this answer was written when the question was asking about the shutter, rather than the diaphragm. It may be deleted soon. There is no shutter in the 24-105; almost every camera system smaller than medium format has a focal plane shutter in the body, rather than a leaf shutter in the lens. The only exception I know of is the Pentax Q system.


0

One might wish to inquire “what’s the advantage of reversing a lens”. The normal design of a camera lens is to image a curved vista and project this image on a flat surface such as film or digital chip. When we image super close, in most cases the subject will be flat or nearly flat and depth-of-field will be super shallow. Best we use a lens that is ...


4

If you want the highest magnification possible, then the 18-55 might yield that at 18mm. But if you want better image quality, the 50mm f/1.8, being a prime will probably yield that. BTW, there are two types of macro reversal rings: ones that let you mount a reversed lens directly to the camera mount, and others that are basically male-to-male filter rings, ...


3

What's the minimum exposure time that can be achieved in bulb mode? Technically, the minimum exposure time is probably limited by the speed that a person can press and release the shutter button (or remote shutter release). I assume this is somewhere on the order of 0.1 seconds (1/10 shutter speed) or so. However, this is highly variable and difficult ...


0

Short answer: No. DPP has no add watermark feature. There is a convoluted way to add watermarks via Digital Photo Professional, but it isn't remotely efficient enough to make it worth the trouble. Once you've done all the editing you wish to your file, you can use the compositing tool to combine that image with another. Although the compositing tool can ...


0

The manual doesn't mention the word "Watermark" so I would have to say no.


4

There are a large number of options available to you all over the price/reliability spectrum. You basically just want TTL-capable triggers for Canon. The difference between using them and using manual-only triggers like the V5s, is that you may be limited on what lights or other triggers play nice together, and integrating studio strobes might be more of a ...


1

This is not an answer to your question, but a suggestion for your setup. In order to help minimize any extra glare or reflections off of the front of your negatives or slides, try to block out the rest of the light table. Or, create some "gobos" (black absorption panels) out of dark construction paper, or black matte-painted foam board, and use them to ...


2

Note the minimum focal distance of the 18-55mm STM is 0,25m so this is part of the limitation on what you can shoot. Photozone indicates the maximum magnification is at 55mm, which is probably what you should use regardless of "sweet spot". Distortion, CA and vignetting are best at f8 and above and resolution at f8 is as good as you'll get across the ...


8

35mm to 55mm at f/5.6 to f/8.0 will get you great results with the EF-S 18-55mm STM. I really like SLR Gear's visual interactive graphs for checking out lens image quality at various focal lengths and aperture settings. SLR Gear Lab Test Results This is what a GREAT lens looks like, and below is what a CRAP lens looks like:


3

Generally speaking for portrait and event photography I would recommend getting rid of everything but the 100mm macro. Pickup a 24-70mm f/2.8 and 70-200mm f/2.8. Beyond a general recommendation I can't tell you much more. What I would recommend is bringing your images into software such as Adobe Lightroom that allows you to see the percentage of images ...


4

Frankly, you don't need a new lens, although there's certainly better glass to be had than what's in your bag. You need lighting gear. Portraits are basically made by the lighting, not so much the camera and lens (see the Strobist and Tangents). And the idea that better gear gets you a better keeper rate doesn't always hold true. Better sharpness, lower ...


0

Going to a full frame sensor, you're going to want more "reach" .. If you're doing a lot of portrait work, I'd definitely look into getting a 85mm ... it complements a full frame body nicely and gives a very natural look. I'm not sure what your budget is, but look at the f 1.8 or f 1.2 versions ... personally, I like the f 1.8 version better as I very rarely ...


3

The problem has nothing to do with the image not being entirely focus but more of that it is soft. At f/4.0, there is a significant softness that the lens has. When you are looking at photo 100%, this softness becomes more pronounced. Details just become harder to capture for such a small portion of the image. Remember that when you are looking through the ...


2

One is the older Canon EF-S 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS and one is the newer Canon EF-S 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS STM. The newer STM version is an all around better lens. It has slightly improved optics for slightly better image quality. It also has STM (stepper motor) Auto Focus which is faster and virtually silent. You can tell the difference in photos because ...


0

I just answered a similar question here: http://photo.stackexchange.com/a/72846/20519 You may be interested in this project, http://dslrdashboard.info/. It takes a TPLINK MR3040 (which looks awfully similar to the camranger!) and provides a dd-wrt firmware image that puts some kind of API onto the device that DSLR Dashboard uses. DSLR Dashboard ...


1

You may be interested in this project, http://dslrdashboard.info/. It takes a TPLINK MR3040 (~$30.00, and looks awfully similar to the camranger!) and provides a dd-wrt firmware image that puts some kind of API onto the device that DSLR Dashboard uses. DSLR Dashboard appears to be available as a PC app, as well as IOS and Android. I recently bought a ...


0

I recently bought a PIXMA PRO 100 and would have to agree - the SW drivers that came with it are pretty horrible. The best answer I found came from an Improve Photography post on the printer that you can find here: ...


3

If pulling the cord of the RS60-E3 out of the camera jack solves the problem then the problem is not in the camera, it is with the RS60-E3. What happens if you immediately plug the cord back in? Does the shutter open back up for another exposure? It sounds like the shutter button is just getting stuck and takes a while to fully release. If you only recently ...


1

In addition to Caleb's answer, maybe your problem is neither the camera, nor the wire. Maybe the problem is your PC and/or USB port. So please try connecting your 6D with another PC. Also you can try to put the SD card in another PC.


3

Do you have any other idea that can help? The easiest method is to take the SD card out of the camera and stick it in the SD slot in your computer, or if you don't have a computer equipped with such a slot, into the SD slot of a memory card reader. Cheap readers cost as little as $5; better ones read faster, work with more kinds of cards, and cost maybe ...


-1

tl;dr: I think it is the image stabilization. Additional info: Check whether you can hear the noise on all stabilized lenses (ask a friend or check at a camera store if there is no other choice). I certainly hear the stabilizer every time it's operating on my two stabilized Nikon lenses and some more of my friends. Reading the other answers, apparently the ...


3

So far I was really impressed by the 10mm ones, however the ones with at least decent aperture comes without Image Stabilization. I also looked to the 15mm ones, with IS. Ultra wide angle is a really desirable thing for me but I would also like to protect my pictures from blurring since I am not a fan of using a tripod. A longstanding rule of thumb ...


0

If your question is i want to do a time lapse photography with EOS remote or IOS app on Iphone/Ipad ? then the answer it doesn't exists till date i have been searching for it since 2 yrs. Use an intervalometer or Triggertrap kit has a IOS app which is closer since it provides specific modes for time lapse and star trails but it doesnt work on Wifi and ...


5

First, some terminology. On your 700D (or any of the 1.6x crop APS-C bodies), a 15mm and up is still just "wide angle". It's below 15mm that lenses become ultrawide. So if you want ultrawide, you need lenses that are around the 10-15mm focal length range. Wide angle on a 1.6x crop camera, typically means something in the 15-24mm range. Normal is around ...


6

Ok, looked at the work of Carlo Cafferini and Andreas Gursky you linked to, and did a bit of googling. Gurksy's work is mainly done with large format Linhof cameras, so whatever lens choice you go with, it's not going to look the same with an ASP-C format sensor that has no access to movements--at least not with a single shot. And Cafferini may be using ...


0

It depends on what exactly it is that you want to do. A long-focus lens (telephoto, large focal length) will compress distances between objects along the line you're shooting and make things look flat. Wide-angle lenses (small focal length) exaggerate perspective and make things look deeper than they really are. They also give you a wide field of view which ...


-1

After some more testing, it seems that high contrast areas can affect the PDAF, even if they are far away from the selected autofocus point. However, even in the very best conditions (flat, high contrast target on a flat, uniformly colored surface), some inaccuracy remains. I also tried a different EOS 750D with the same results, so it seems unlikely that ...


1

It's the same. The 60D and T3i both came out around roughly the same time and their pop-up flashes and hotshoe have the exact same capabilities. Any strobe that works with and doesn't fry a 60D will work with (and not fry) a T3i. The Canon hotshoe, physically, has been relatively unchanged even from film days. How the electronic communication is ...


5

Yes, the hot shoe is the same across all EOS bodies - and if all you care about is manual control (no eTTL, HSS and the like) it's actually standard across the industry, with the only notable exceptions being some Sony bodies and the Nikon 1 system which use a proprietary hot shoe.



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