New answers tagged canon
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Let me start by saying either lens is very good. I personally compared the 24-105 F4 and the new 24-70 F/2.8 when looking for my standard zoom lens. Unfortunately the 24-70 F/4 was not yet available to me to test and I ended up going with the f/2.8 because it was vastly sharper than the 24-105 F/4.
That said, the 24-105 was a fantastic lens that holds up ...
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If you are doing weddings, the extra stop of an f/2.8 lens is almost essential when shooting in churches that don't allow the use of flash. For about the same price as the EF 24-70mm f/4, you can buy a Tamron 24-70mm f/2.8 Di VC. The reviews I have seen place it between the original EF 24-70mm f/2.8L and the EF 24-70mm f/2.8L II in terms of sharpness. The ...
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First just to say: This is great picture :)
I think that blue spot is definitely result of lens flare.
Really interesting area is around helmet. You were too close to the rock, and your light source (probably LED) was so strong, which caused light to reflect from rock, and then it reflected from your white helmet around the area, and together with dust ...
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If the index mark on your photo was at the center of the original image, the purplish blotch above and to the right of it is a ghosting of the bright light source the same distance to the lower left of it.
Ghosting is caused by the light from extremely bright sources (relative to the rest of the scene) reflecting off the front surface of a lens element or ...
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Do you have a protective filter attached with your lens? Most of the time they are the most common factor of lens flare. Most Lens especially those expensive lens are multi-coated and cannot create flares at all.
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This looks like some form of lens flare to me, it could be caused by one of the coatings in the lens in effect "glowing" as it is struck by light at an angle.
I believe this is known as "veiling flare" or Haze
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It is difficult to pin down camera sales for the US only, as Canon and Nikon have many divisions (printers, imaging, instruments) and don't seem to report financial results at a very detailed level).
According to their own data (worldwide):
Canon (fiscal year ending 31-Dec 2012)
sold 8.2 million interchangeable lens cameras (Canon reference, page 3)
sold ...
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Absolutely, you can use the Canon EF 8-15mm f/4 L USM Fisheye Lens. It is not compatible with screw mount front filters, such as circular polarizers. But it is compatible with rear gelatin filters. Some people find rear gelatin filters to be a pain, since they require the removal of the lens and also the potential to introduce more dust into the box. Another ...
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There simply is no such lens. 12mm is extremely wide on full-frame and, if you are talking about rectilinear lenses, only Sigma ever made any. Their 12-24mm lens is now in its second version but is essentially the same lens. Going with a fisheye, there are still only two models, one from Sigma and one from Canon. Neither accepts filters.
The extreme ...
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As A F said, it's possible to use Canon EDSDK and it's Java wrapper - https://github.com/kritzikratzi/edsdk4j/wiki. It works like a charm.
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Neither of those lenses are good for portraits. A good allrounder would be to upgrade your kit lens to a fixed aperture Canon 17-55 F/2.8 IS USM (or tamron/sigma 18-50mm 2.8).
And then for portraits get the 85mm 1.8 or 85mm 1.2L if you can afford it.
But if you are up to upgrading to a L lens that can be used when you upgrade to FF, then 24-70 F2.8L would ...
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With Phase Detection Auto Focus it is ultimately about how accurate the system is. To put it another way, it is all about how often the the system is accurate enough. Every system will have variation from one shot to the next. The question is what is the average difference from sharpest focus for each shot.
The best single place I've seen describe the ...
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There's never going to be a shot which can't be achieved on the 6D or the 5D Mark II due to the lesser AF capabilities of those cameras - with enough precognition (also known as experience), you could have manually focused on exactly where the action was going to occur and not needed any AF at all.
That's not to say that you won't get a higher proportion of ...
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The 50-500 is a really great lens, very sharp. It also has HSM so the focusing speed is good. Beware that it's kind of large.
You may be able to rent one from Lensrentals.com to try it out.
The 70-200 is not a bad idea as you can get those really sharp, but a 2x TC drops light and may interfere with auto-focus.
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Please also consider a Canon 400mm/F5.6. It does not have IS, but is a great lens for birding. Please take a look at the pictures of Lynn David Cole on Google+
https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/114059849407766199667/albums/5798092835539172337
and view them in Full Screen/Slideshare mode. Almost all of these shots are made with the above lens.
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It is possible. Technically they call it "Tethering Capture" from computer.
For example Photoshop Lightroom supports some of EOS cameras for tethering. Please see:
http://helpx.adobe.com/lightroom/kb/tethered-camera-support-lightroom-4.html
The "EOS Utility software" does also support tethering/remote shooting. From the menu, choose “Camera settings/Remote ...
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Yes, higher DPI will give better results than lower DPI. The actual pigments that the photo exposes are very small (small enough that they are small dots at 500x zoom if they are photographically developed). Also, your sampling will not line up exactly with the original dots, so oversampling is beneficial even if you could exceed the effective resolution ...
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The RAW files are different because the sensors are different. The processor does not do anything to the RAW data, it simply reads it and packages it in a RAW format. The embedded JPEG preview though is computed differently by these processors, just like a JPEG would.
In theory, yes, the phase-detect pixels affect image-quality but the effect is extremely ...
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Yes, it is possible to hook up to the camera and capture images outside of EOS Utility. This can be seen in multiple programs available for Android and iOS which do specifically this. As far as how to write a program to do that, that's unfortunately a programing question, not a photography one and is off topic for Photography. You'd probably have better ...
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You will have far greater control of your final image if you take several pictures and combine them later using an HDR post-processing tool. You'll have the choice of making it photo-realistic (like the built-in camera modes) as well as going all "cartoony" like many on the internet like. But you also have the ability to get the shot looking exactly like you ...
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If you are asking can the computer control an EOS camera and take pictures without a photographer's interaction the answer is Yes. There are some limits to what you may do via EOS Utility, the primary one being that you can't change the focal length of a zoom lens without physically moving the zoom ring (or the push/pull barrel) on the lens. You can adjust ...
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In my opinion, the EF 75-300mm f/4.0-5.6 lenses are some of the very few lenses in Canon's current lineup which should be avoided (the others are the unstabilized 18-55 lenses, because the price premium for the stabilized version is so small). As can be seen from this review, it's not a good lens; all that applies to both the USM and non-USM variants. You'll ...
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1) Yes, the price difference is because of image stabilization. It is not an unreasonable price difference for IS vs non-IS because of the cost and complexity added by the IS mechanism. The optics quality between the older 75-300 and the newer 70-300 is also significant.
2) Yes, it's hugely significant, particularly on the longer focal lengths. You can ...
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This is ultimatly a fairly subjective question. I think it does a pretty good job on my 5D Mark iii most of the time. It's also worth noting that you can have the 5DM3 save the individual files used (including in RAW format) so that you can always use software later even if you decide you don't like the JPEG that it produces. There are also multiple ...
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If you click here, you can see examples of the HDR mode in the 5D mark III. There are actually several presets, so it gives you the freedom to choose one you like. Of course you have less freedom compared with software like photomatix.
It is not possible to say which one is better, since this is also a matter of taste. I think its a trade off between ease ...
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Ok, I verified this on my own version of that lens from my old xTi. That's normal behavior. The lens goes between macro and standard zoom. If you notice, when you put the lens at 55 it is a long way out, then as you move to 24, it slowly pulls back up against the body of the lens. Then from 24 to 18, it pushes back out again. Thing is, it does this a) ...
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Some lenses have a calibration problem, aka, front focus or back focus. You can easily test your lens and find out if that is the problem.
There are some great guides on the web, you may want to google it: "front focus lens test"
Edit: Try to print this photo and shoot it from a low angle while focusing on the line in the middle. Use an open aperture. Then ...
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Power Focus is described on Canon's Infobank page as "a mode that allows you to drive the autofocus motor electronically instead of having to use the focus ring." As you indicate in your question, it's meant for changing focus from one point to another very smoothly, for use while shooting video.
As one doesn't normally change focus in the middle of taking ...
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The everyday lens depends on your subject and, if you suppose that all the subjects you list are everyday subjects, there is no single perfect lens that will fit.
The best compromise I know of is the excellent Canon EF-S 17-55mm F/2.8 IS USM. This one covers the same range as your kit lens except it is significantly sharper and has a much brighter maximum ...
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buildings, landscapes
Then a wide focal length is the ideal, which you already got - 18mm on a T2i (1.6x crop factor) is ~28mm on a full frame. Wider than that and you'll start getting some serious perspective distortion you'd need to correct.
sports mode photography
Then a fast telephoto and good AF is essential. You already have a telephoto, depending ...
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On a crop body camera, the 18 to 55mm is really your every day or "standard" zoom range. You might benefit from a slightly longer range, but most likely your biggest gain would be getting a "faster" lens.
When we talk about the speed of a lens we're talking about how wide the aperture (the hole that the light is focused through) can get. The faster a ...
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I would pick up the Canon 50mm f/1.8. This has already been covered at length by multiple other threads here, so take a look at some of these great questions/answers:
Is it worth it to have the 50mm f/1.8 Canon lens?
Do I really need a fast 50mm lens?
Why do people recommend 50mm or other prime lenses as starting lenses for learning photography?
50mm tag - ...
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I don't think you need to use a special "script". There are some softwares that do the trick and are easy to use.
If by any chance you're using photoshop, this guide will help you:
focus-stacking-made-easy-with-photoshop
I was using it to stack 20 photos and it works great for me.
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I had this problem and discovered that the very end of my lens was slightly stuck...I gave it a gentle twist then it worked great :)
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It really doesn't make a lot of difference in today's environment. At one time the dpi embedded in a picture's metadata, combined with the resolution of the image, told the printer what size the print should be. That is not so much the case any more as the software used to control the printer usually starts with a selected print size and scales the image to ...
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There are variations in Canon DSLR.
I had Canon-XT and used non-EMF chipped adapter with very accurate exposure in AV mode. I just turn to the desired aperture setting, get AF confirmed, and take the picture.
For 5D, the story is a little different for the camera's brain is different from the lower level DSLR. I used EMF chipped adapter, and need to adjust ...
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Welcome to the wonderful world of macro product photography.
First, you need to understand that when you photograph things at high magnification, you won't get a whole lot of depth of field. In this instance, very little is in focus. Look at the leftmost two pendant rings at the bottom of the earring on the right: just that little bit is sharp, and most of ...
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For the EF 300mm f/2.8L IS removing the tripod collar was fairly straightforward: Loosen the tension knob and rotate until the red dot on the collar lines up with the red dot on the lens barrel and pull the collar straight back. This lined up the four slots on the collar with the four lugs on the lens barrel.
The new EF 300mm f/2.8L IS II has a ...
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I found this: "The 300f/4 IS collar is removable, but it does not open like the 70-200 collar. Remove the lens from the camera body and put the rear lens cap in place. Then back the collar screw fully out. Finally, rotate the collar around the lens while gently exerting pressure toward the rear of the lens. At one point, and one point only, the collar will ...
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I had similar sounding problem with an ef 75-300 I bought about a year ago,
It felt almost as if the outer casing of the barrel was rubbing or catching in places against the inner making the movement feel a bit jerky!
over time however using the zoom ring seems to have become a more fluent action,
the front focusing ring is soft and smooth but it always was ...
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I recently purchased a T4i and looked very closely at the T5i next to it. As far as I could see the bodies were identical. So I don't know what this talk about a new finish is. The rotation mode dial was different in that it spun 360. It was also missing the 'night scene' mode and the 'hdr' mode. I guess I missed the addition of scene mode mentioned ...
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According to this page, the IID2 has no flash capacity, while the IIS2 does.
Quoting:
The IID2, like the rest of the IID line has no flash capacity. Built
through 1956, production was slightly over 16,000 units.
Like the IIF, the IIF2 has flash provision for bulbs only, the slow
speed dial has no X on it. Unlike the IIF, this was a low ...
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It's looking like that the biggest difference is the updated 18-55 kit lens - from the early reviews and comments, it's a non-trivial upgrade over the older EF-S 18-55 f/3.5-5.6 IS II lens, in all of optical quality, usability with filters (due to the non-rotating front element) and the advantages the STM gives for video shooters. Given that a significant ...
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The differences are so minor many review sites are basically copy/pasting their T4i reviews, replacing the pictures, and editing the differences if they're posting reviews of the T5i at all. The new STM kit lens is probably the most significant change, especially for those shooting video as well as stills.
From The-Digital-Picture:
Here is a list of ...
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I don't have either, but this is pretty well covered by hands-on-previews like DPReview's. The differences are really minor and basically cosmetic.
Typically, Canon leaves older models on the market for a while to be a lower-level option, but in this case they are apparently replacing the T4i with the T5i and leaving the T3i.
Why make a new model? Eh; ...
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I have noticed that this question is over 2 years old, so I was wondering if you still are experiencing issues. If so, I may be able to help. If so:
1.Please tell me whether auto or manual focus is posing a problem.
2.Try taking otherwise identical photos in both manual and auto focus. You should use a tripod for this.
If I see those photos, I should be ...
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Silent shooting mode does not affect Image Quality in any way. Rather, it affects the way your 5D mkIII cycles the mirror and shutter curtain for each shot you take.
The silent mode single option uses a slower speed to move the mirror up out of the light box. The first curtain opens, and then the second curtain closes as normal. But then, nothing else will ...
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To bluntly answer the question: "Why not enable it by default?" The obvious answer is "because it has drawbacks". Otherwise it would be enabled by default :).
Looking at this article from Canon directly explaining the option for the 1DMkIII and 1DSMkIII, then at this one for the 7D, I think we can safely say that the effect will vary depending on the camera ...
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In order to allow the camera to make less noise, the speed the mirror is moved out of the light box and/or the speed the shutter is reset for each shot is slowed down. This increases shutter lag and decreases the maximum number of frames per second.
Sometime the maximum frame rates is more important, regardless of the noise produced by a camera. I doubt ...
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It's slower in terms of frame rate, and there's a noticeably longer shutter lag.
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