Lightnings taking a ride

by ceinmart

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1

If it focuses in bright light but doesn't in dimmer light, it sounds like the aperture diaphragm may not be opening back up all the way as it should after a photo is taken. This could be due to either a defective servo in the aperture unit or a problem with the connection between camera and aperture unit. If you've eliminated the contacts between the lens ...


0

First try good repair-shop. I had my lens broken due to bumpy ride, repair shop was able to fix it. They might be able to help you. If it cannot be fixed, sell it for scrap value. Some parts might still be reusable.


0

Is it generalized softness, or is it missing focus? Microadjust is certainly a place to start. But my 7d's autofocus was always a bit dodgy. WAY more focus misses than my 1ds2 or 6d. After two circuit board replacements it finally got fairly close to my FF's in consistency... at which point it got stolen :-( Wasn't just me, seems AF issues with the 7d ...


0

You could substitute any model numbers in your question and the answer would be the same. I would advise spending as little money as possible, learning the craft, gaining experience, then reassessing your equipment in a few years. When you have done so you will then have the knowledge to understand the truly small differences between the best DSLRs available ...


0

If money truly is no issue, then buy the higher performing camera. For event photography such as family and friend gatherings and weddings, the ability to get the shot as it happens without the luxury of multiple opportunities to nail the shot is paramount. The most significant difference between the 6D and 5D Mark III are their respective focus systems. ...


1

Between those three you have listed, I would go with 50mm one. If I wanted to pick one myself, prime, non-zoom...I would pick 35mm. It is better for street photography. If I wanted to pick one, zoom and affordable range I would go with 24-85mm if Canon has it, for a higher price 24-70 f2.8 is a good walk around lens.


1

Although, buying a first lens can be considered a subjective decision, you can make this decision easier by deciding on how far you wish to take your photography. Are you buying a DSLR and Lens to improve your skills in composition along with the quality of your photos or are you looking for a camera with a lens that provides the versatility of not just ...


3

Basically you can divide lenses (or just about anything really) into 3 categories: Lenses that are really good for one thing and one thing only (or a small set of things) Lenses that are not great at anything but are ok for a lot of things Lenses that cost a fortune (and still can't do everything) Now, since you are a newbie I assume option 3 is out of ...


1

Personally, I avoid "kits" because I want to chose my lens, so I buy the body and the lens separately. You could consider buying a nicer, yet older, lens (used). Be sure that it will work with your camera and is in good condition though; probably from a reputable reseller. Good luck.


-1

You can actually charge any battery with a cut open USB cord, it shouldn't harm your battery as the charging current us far below the charger the camera actually uses (but no guarantee, so be careful). If you rally can't find any other option you can cut open your USB cord and find the black and the red wire inside it. Red is positive, black is negative, ...


2

You need three RF-603II units: one on the camera to act as trasmitter, and one on each flash to act as receivers. The YN-568EXII does not have any built-in radio slave capability. All its slave modes are optical, and to be used with the RF-603IIs, a flash must be out of all the slave modes (because they tell the flash to listen only to the optical sensor, ...


2

The RF-603C II is a radio transceiver. The YN-568EX II has a built in optical receiver, but no radio receiver. To use a wireless radio transmitter like the RF-603C with the YN568EX-II you need to attach a radio receiver compatible with the transmitter you are using. The built-in optical receiver of the YN-568EX II will only work with an on camera flash or ...


1

New F1 and F1n get mixed up a lot, so I'm going to assume that you have the one with the hybrid shutter and the hotshoe on top of the prism. Have you tried changing the shutter speed? That camera has a hybrid shutter and some of the speeds are mechanical and some are electrical. IIRC faster is mechanical. Dodgy connection sounds right to me but I'm ...


1

Short Answer : Use Exiftool, it works with JPEG and RAW and gives you the Serial Number. Full Answer : On Windows, as Philip mentioned, you can download the tool Exiftool, available on its author's website. The last version is currently v10.00 and is available here : http://www.sno.phy.queensu.ca/~phil/exiftool/exiftool-10.00.zip Unzipped the executable ...


0

It sounds like a limitation of the Canon SDK that it connects to one camera at a time. Multi-camera implementations would either need to disconnect/reconnect to each camera in turn (which would introduce quite a lot of lag) or be written from the ground up to talk directly to the device(s) across USB. Depending on your needs, gPhoto2 may be suitable, it ...


0

Perhaps a small power inverter and a solar panel would serve your needs. This would allow you to use your existing charger regardless of whether you have access to power or not


1

If you don't want to carry two lenses, you might want to add an Extension Tube to use with your 18-135 STM: http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-EF-S-18-135mm-f-3.5-5.6-IS-STM-Lens-Review.aspx


2

The Canon EF 24-70mm f/4L IS USM Lens is the closest to what you desire. It isn't a true macro 1:1 lens, but it does provide .70x as well as a fairly close miniumum focusing distance of 7.9"(200mm). The image quality will far exceed the current zoom lens you have, and the macro quality is very high for a zoom or non dedicated macro. It's a great lens ...


3

Personally, I think you need to bite the bullet and just carry both lenses. Two lenses is not a huge amount of gear, and the 100L Macro is arguably the best macro lens you can get for the Canon mount. You could rent an EF-S 60mm f/2.8 USM Macro for the trip, which is smaller/lighter than the 100L, but it's not going to replace an 18-135 for walkaround use, ...


0

You can use digiCamControl to connect multiple cameras and control it in same time, but you can't trigger multiple cameras in same time via USB connection will be a lag between cameras capture around 200-800 ms. If you want do same programmatically you can use the CameraControl.Devices nuget package for it


4

The Canon 18-135mm STM lens allows for Manual override when set to AF Mode. It will not harm the lens or the camera. It is a feature that is commonly used by Videographers but also by some photographers, A common example will be at a wedding. Here you focus on the bride, you hear the beep and see the red dot. Now with the shutter half pressed, you pan over ...


5

That is intentional. As described here: This new STM lens is an inch shorter and adds a zoom lock and instant manual-focus override to the older 18-135mm EF-S IS lens, however manual focus is electronic. The focus ring isn't connected to anything, and there is a tiny time delay between when you move the ring and the lens moving. The speed at which the ...


0

- Canon to E-Mount - Viltrox EF-Nex II Auto-Focus adapter - I own a "Sony A7 II", I still have a "Canon EF 16-35mm F4L IS USM" and a "Tamron SP 24-70mm F2.8 Di VC USD" from the Canon equipment that I used before. So I bought a "Viltrox EF-Nex II Auto-Focus Canon to Sony E-Mount Adapter" to use these lenses on my Sony body. 1st of all, the AF is really slow ...


0

Just set again the WiFi password as it is described in to the documentation Of course this will ask for password on other devices you use to connect to camera via WiFi


0

"Too low" is a very subjective term, but for using the lens on both a crop camera and on a full frame camera, the lens is sharpest in the range of f/4.0 to f/8.0 or so.


1

F/1.4 vs, f/4 is three full stops. That means the f/1.4 lens allows eight times the amount of light through the lens than the f/4 lens does! This means you can shoot at lower ISO or for shorter shutter times or both. It means at the same ISO and shutter times, with the f/1.4 lens you can capture night sky objects 1/8 the brightness of what you can capture ...


4

There is a HUGE difference. The 17-40 is good for northern lights, moon-illuminated landscape and such where but it will struggle a bit with noise in other "darker" situations. The Samyang 24mm is very, very fast and quite sharp even wide open if you get a good copy...(BUT NOT VERY WIDE, which is why many night photog specialists usually also have an ...


1

There is a solution provided by Jeffrey Friedl and his awesome Lightroom plugin "Data Explorer". download and install the plugin select all the images, which have different canon styles applied, you want to process. the free version of the plugin is limited to handling a maximum of 500 images at once. Edit > Select all run the data explorer. File > Plug-in ...


0

There is a technical reason for not incorporating image stabilisation in a typical high speed Gauss type lens. Optical IS requires a moving lens component that displaces the image laterally without defocusing. This can be done in most multi-component asymmetric constructions, by moving some component controlled by a stabilising sensor. However the heavier ...


20

That appearance is very typical for a hair sitting on the sensor. Fortunately they are also very easy to get rid of. Either go to a camera store or do it yourself. Detach the lens in a dry and particle free (as particle free as possible) and lock the mirror up while opening up the shutter. This can often be done easily in a sensor cleaning mode from the ...


0

I'm kind of confused by your question. The YN-568EXII is Canon-only. There is no Nikon version. And e-TTL is Canon's flavor of TTL. The Nikon version is i-TTL. If you're trying to shoot with Yongnuo's for-Canon gear with a Nikon camera, you cannot get TTL or HSS on the hotshoe or on radio triggers. You can only get TTL and HSS through CLS (Nikon's "smart" ...


0

Use a Yongnuo 622N-TX transmitter on the hot shoe of your camera and a Yongnuo 622N trigger on each of the 568 EX II N flashes. You can also buy them together in various combinations of 622N-TX and 622N units. You could use a 622N for the transmitter, but the settings are nowhere near as intuitive with the 622N (no screen, just status lights) as with the ...


1

I would say that focal length is the most important thing to look at. Somewhere around 35mm-equivalent (so, 23mm or so on APS-C). That's the field of view of most phone cameras these days — because this kind of situation is definitely one they need to cover. Similarly, kit lenses tend to be zooms covering this range, for the same basic reason (although see ...


1

The short of it is that the you will want to look for the same attributes regardless of if the lens is for indoor or outdoor use. One could argue that the following short list is of special consideration: Focal length (you may hit walls and distortion is a big concern) Weather sealing (not as important if you never go outside) Weight constraints (not as ...


0

Selecting the autofocus point is covered on page 68 of the manual1: Selecting the AF point [...] Press the [AF point selection] button [...] Select the AF point Press the [4 way controller] to select the AF point While looking in the viewfinder, you can select the AF point by turning the [main command dial] until ...


2

All Canon EF (not EF-S) lenses will work with the camera. What kind of experience you are looking for? It is a fine camera. Current 5D series models have faster autofocus, less noise and higher resolution than the original 5D.


1

Try Calibrating the Diopter of Your Camera to see if that helps. Since having the Diopter not calibrated may make the lens look out of focus.


1

Without more details about what shooting modes and settings you have selected, your question doesn't give us very much to go on. The 70D is a highly configurable camera and with some combinations of settings selected the behavior you describe would be as expected. It is possible that via certain custom settings options the AF has been disabled with a half ...


1

Try a rubber band wrench from an auto parts type store, or rubber gloves with your fingers and palm evenly spaced around ring. Don't squeeze too hard--just enough to make even contact. You can also put Anti-seize compound, from the same type of store, on your fingertip then onto the threads. Only coat the threads very lightly; it will spread around when ...


1

Without more information, generally, you want to find lenses that are the widest aperture you can get within your budget and matches the focal length you desire. The wider the aperture (lower F#), the more light. Also, shooting at longer focal lengths in low light situations will likely require a tripod or lens with image stabilization.


0

I have not used the 28-135, but many years ago I used the 35-135 USM with a film camera and found both handling and IQ to be excellent. However I did use the 28-105 f/3.5-4.5 USM with DLSRs for a long time, and liked it a lot. There is not much wrong with the IQ delivered by the 28-105 f/3.5-4.5, even in the corners, as you can see in this un-cropped, full ...


0

Check the version of DPP installed on your computer. The DPP version on your computer should be the one that is compatible with your camera. Higher version is not necessarily the best for your camera. I faced the same issue as you had. My camera was 550D and the DPP I had installed on my computer was v3.5.x (which was downloaded off the Internet because I ...


0

I've used both, side by side, simultaneously, switching between full frame and crop bodies at multiple indoor and outdoor events shooting both photo and video for over a year. My advice is not to believe the hype or anyone who blindly points you toward the more expensive options just because of a red line running around the lens. This is in no way meant to ...


2

What you're noticing is not the focus motor but the image stabilization system. If the focus motor were moving, the focus would change. The IS system will start up when you half-press the shutter button.


1

Check this? This might help.. http://www.eyefi.com/


2

You don't need CHDK to accomplish this. I was doing it ten years ago with my little Powershot A520. Including live view and tethered capture using the free Canon CameraWindow software. And it doesn't even support CHDK. You can find Canon point and shoot cameras pretty cheap used.


1

Just to put things into perspective, I own a Canon 5Ds, released mid July 2015. it is the first 50MP full frame camera from Canon. Last weekend, I went to a commercial shoot of two simultaneous weddings at a golf club. the project was to show the golf courses capabilities. Now naturally, I used the Canon 5Ds, and for my assistants, one of the very juniors ...


3

How outdated is the [1D] Mark III compared to other Canon or Nikon cameras in the low/mid price range? A bit. But in other ways, not at all. The biggest advances since 2007 have been in high ISO performance and resolution on the sensor. Comparing a 10MP 2007 APS-H sensor to a current 20MP ASP-C or full frame sensor is going to be a bit like comparing ...


1

It's what the person does that makes a good photograph, not the equipment. That is, the composition, timing, inspiration, the story they want to tell, the way they control the camera to achieve the desired effect are the key things that make a good image. Consider all the iconic photographers from 40 years ago or more, Henri Cartier Bresson, Don McCullin, ...


3

Canon 6D was added to Camera Raw 7.3, which requires CS6. I think your only options are to use the DNG converter, upgrade Photoshop, or switch to another tool like Lightroom.



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