Sunset in Kruger

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5

Since Canon introduced the EOS system in 1987, all EOS EF mount lenses will work on all EOS EF (full frame, APS-H) or EF-S (APS-C) mount bodies. This means they will be functional in terms of automatic metering and auto focus. What field of view each lens will yield on a digital body depends on the size of that camera's sensor. For a closer look at that ...


4

The other answers are correct: for this lens, the hood attaches to a bayonet on the outside of the lens, and the filter threads are still clear so that screw-in filters can still be added. It should be noted, however that this isn't universally true: screw-in hoods are available, and for some lenses this is/was the OEM solution. Also, some filter options -- ...


3

I think that you are doing most if not all of the right things to ensure that you are capturing the image in camera as fast as possible. The obvious ones you have done; turn off AF and use manual mode. Beyond that I would look at your shutter release methods. It sounds like the sensor is may be placed at "the finish line", where as it might benefit your ...


3

Rather than using the photo transfer utility that came on your laptop, try using Canon's EOS Utility that came on the software CD with your camera. Once installed, you can download free updates from Canon's T3i support page. Files that are saved in raw format with an extension of .cr2 may not be recognized as photos by the generic import utility it sounds ...


3

Did you shoot some pics in RAW by any chance? If so they may not be recognized. Check and see if you have any *.CR2 (I believe that this is the extension for Canon RAW files) files on your memory card folder.


3

Without the 70D, you cannot print that image that little bit larger. Without the 10-18mm, you cannot get that image at all. Remember: This does not hold true in general. The 70D might as well be the key equipment required to get a certain shot, but that shot will not be a landscape shot.


3

Those are all Canon EF mount lenses. They will work with any current Canon DSLR, but are so old you may desire newer versions with newer technology.


3

First off, select an AF mode other than Zone AF. In my experience, as well as that of many others', it just doesn't work well when shooting action with the 7D. The camera will likely focus on something, but it probably won't be what you wanted to be in focus. Try either Single-point AF or AF point expansion. Set up your camera so that nudging the little ...


3

I can confirm that if you use a Yongnuo YN-622C, you will be able to trigger your canon speedlights. The setup that I have is 1 Profoto TTL Air remote, 2 Yongnuo YN-622C, 1 430EX II flash, 1 B1. One of the Yongnuo goes between the camera and the Profoto Air remote. The other on the speedlight.


2

As this graph shows, the main differences between Canon and Nikon(Sony) sensors only really show up at low ISO: but at low ISO you can't really see the difference, not without post processing a RAW file. Here is the best post i could find demonstrating this (big) difference: Nikon DX vs Canon APS-C Now this difference will not matter to a lot of people ...


2

The question of Rowland Shaw is a pertinent one. The battery level indeed seems to have an impact on the size of an individual focussing step. At least, that was my observation when I was trying to automate landscape focus stacking with Magic Lantern. As my first objective was to simply count the number of steps of a full throw (i.e. from close to infinity), ...


2

The hack itself will always work, but the reliability of the autofocus suffers. The lens you're asking about is a f/6,3 in the long end and with a 2x teleconverter the autofocus will probably be painfully bad if working at all. I've used the sigma 1.4x teleconverter (connectors masked) on the same lens and even that struggles autofocusing on bodies that are ...


2

Since both the camera and your computer are displaying the same file, the problem likely isn't in the way your applications, EOS Utility 2 and Lightroom 3, are handling the files. The issue is most likely in the way the camera's display system and the computer's display system are handling the files. You can't do much about the camera's display system, ...


2

No, you have to have another RT unit on the camera hotshoe to use the remote shutter release capability of Canon's 2012-and-later cameras. The built-in flash cannot work for this, as it has no RF capability--only optical (i.e., it blinks out light signals, but can't blip out/receive radio signals). It might be easier to just get cheap radio triggers to be ...


2

So thinking logically about your question, both the Canon T3i and the 70D are both APS-C cameras and 18mp against the 20mp of the 70D means there's nothing in it, 5472 x 3648 70D against 5184 x 3456 T3i(aka 600D) image resolution. Both cameras are equally capable of taking an excellent quality photograph! After all it's the person behind the camera that ...


2

The XTi has a bit of shutter lag of somewhere between 1/5 and 1/4 of a second, even when fully manual (including meter, white balance and focus). Pinewood derby races are about 4-5 seconds over the 50 foot tracks. To account for the shutter lag you may need to place the sensor about a foot or two (+/-) ahead of the finish line. Try to use a wider angle lens ...


1

Most folks will advise that you get glass before a new body. Part of this is for simple financial reasons. A good lens tends to hold value better and for longer than a digital body. dSLR bodies, like all digital electronics, tend to depreciate rapidly, even when they're new. And you tend to flip through them at roughly the same rate you'd flip through ...


1

The Sigma 12-24 is a full frame lens. On a crop sensor camera like the 70D, it will have similar field of view as a (12 x 1.6= ) 19.2 to (24 x 1.6= ) 38.4 mm lens. You might compare this to shots taken with other lenses near this full-frame length. Comparing this to an 18-55 might help, as you will get a sense of the middle range of the Sigma lens on the ...


1

Sharpness (measured by careful manual focusing in a lab environment) is important, but remember with a wedding lens AF consistency is equally important. Sharpness: The Tamron is a sharp lens, but it is not quite as sharp as the EF 24-70mm f/2.8 L II. From DxO Mark (click the Measurements tab, then sharpness and profiles and play around with various focal ...


1

I preordered a canon 5dsr but I was wondering if the lens Tamron SP AF Di VC USD 24 - 70 mm will be good with that camera? Summary: You are liable to be happy with this lens on most counts if you are happy with the 24-70 mm zoom range and f/2.8 constant aperture. According to DxO, you cannot get a sharper zoom in the 2X mm - 7Xmm f/2.8 class, although ...


1

I don't think there's any way you're going to achieve this without additional gear of some kind--most probably a wireless shutter release (remote). You could use an infrared remote (e.g., RC-6), for which the T3i and 70D both have a built-in sensor (it's that circular dot at the top of the grip). Or, if you're a Strobist, simple flash radio triggers would ...


1

Yes, the filter has the same diameter as the lens so it won't prevent you from mounting the lens hood.


1

If you think the motor is only working in one direction, you might try to test the theory by focusing in live mode. If it's like mine, it will usually go back and forth to home in on the sharpest focus (using contrast rather than phase detection), so if the motor is only working in one direction it will probably not be able to focus in live mode. Of ...


1

It likely just needs a CLA - "clean, lube, adjust". At X and below, the second curtain is on a clockwork delay, and that can't tolerate a lot of dust and grit or old, broken-down lubricant. It is something you can do yourself with relatively common precision/jewellers' tools (well, except for accurately adjusting the timer spring, but if you can get within a ...


1

How do I know if it is broken? If the lens is properly attached to the camera, definitely has autofocus turned on, and still won't focus, that's a good indication that the lens is broken. But you're a long way from that conclusion. Or am I attaching it wrong? If you're new to using the camera, there's a strong chance that you're not completely ...


1

Use the maximum zoom, the lowest F-number and get as close as possible to the subject you want to photograph. This will minimize the depth of field.


1

If you've got the skills to strip a compact down then go for it and see what you find on the sensor. It looks like you've a dust spot on the sensor (about a fifth of the way down, just right of centre), but as for the pink blob my guess would be possible grease/oil contamination on the sensor from the lens assembly. It's a guess but it's where I would start ...


1

The current standard kit lens with the SL1 appears to be the STM version which means, among other things, that the camera has to be powered on and ready to shoot (not sleeping) for manual focus to respond. Essentially it's a "focus-by-wire" system, where there isn't a direct physical connection between the focus ring and the actual lens elements, instead ...


1

My Jessops 360 AFDN got stuck on a Nikon D90. I tried almost everything mentioned above, except taking it to an authorised dealer. In the end I disassembled the flash to get it off.



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