Westminster fountain at sunset

by Jorge Córdoba

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5

No, there's no way to deduce the max shutter speed. It's typically listed in the same specs where you'd find the kind of information you've listed, in fact.


4

From an image quality standpoint the 6D has a fairly significant advantage over any of Canon's current APS-C offerings. Since the 7D Mark II has been announced but not yet released and hasn't been in the hands of most reputable reviewers/independent testers yet, it is hard to judge the image quality. Suffice it to say it would need a totally revolutionary ...


4

The EOS 6D and the EOS 7d Mark II are very different cameras in so many ways making them hard to compare. The EOS 6D is the least expensive full frame DSLR from Canon and the 7D Mark II is their most expensive APS-C. You say you are into landscape and astrophotography and in my world buying a 7D Mark II over a 6D for that is crazy. The 7D Mark Ii is made ...


4

The one device that you could buy which would give you a greater focal length with your current lens is a teleconverter - Canon produce both a 1.4x version, which increases the focal length of your lenses by 1.4x, and a 2x version which doubles the focal length. However, note that both come with a drawback - they reduce the effective aperture of your lens, ...


4

Any EF lens can be used on one of Canon's full-frame cameras. Generally, when Canon makes a newer version of a lens, it's because there can either be improvements to the optical design, or they can make a cheaper version of the lens. With Ls, it's usually the former. The Mk I version of the 14L came out in 1991. The Mk II version in 2007, so you ...


3

First off, all EF lenses (L or otherwise) can be mounted on a Canon 5D. Nothing about the L precludes it from being mounted on other bodies, nor only the higher end bodies being restricted to only L lenses. The difference between the two (and I'm working from Ken Rockwell's review at Canon 14mm f/2.8 L II) Heavier (4oz heavier than the original) Built in ...


3

In general, all camera brands have their own proprietary system for connecting lenses. Modern mounts are all bayonet style, which means they twist and lock rather than needing to screw on, as older lenses did. These mounts are not interchangeable, so you'll need a lens that matches your camera bodies. Most brands have different sub-variants of their mount, ...


3

The lens you've linked to is the Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II. It will not fit your camera, because it is a Canon EOS lens: neither the physical linkage nor the electronic contacts match those on your camera. What you're looking for is a Nikon F-mount lens. The easiest way to ensure you've got an F-mount lens is to buy a new lens that's Nikon-branded that is for ...


3

Yes and no. So far (Sept 2014), no Canon bodies can trigger the Wireless 600EX-RT flash via RADIO. However, a 70D can trigger it via OPTICAL (ie flash pulses) method, same as a 580EX/430EX etc. So, you must attach a radio transmitter, either a ST-E3-RT or another 600EX-RT, to the 70D in order to trigger the 600EX-RT via RADIO signal. While this ...


2

The manual for the mecablitz 44 AF-1 notes (on page 101) that on some cameras, the AF assist ("measuring beam", they call it) will only work if the camera's center AF point is used, and won't with others. That might be your problem. The newer mecablitz 44 AF-3C, mentions a similar limitation (page 48), and also notes that on some cameras, the AF beam is ...


2

You'll also need to buy an on-camera transmitter unit, such as the ST-E3-RT or another 600EX-RT to use the radio communication. Yongnuo makes a clone of the ST-E3-RT, and has announced a 600EX-RT clone which is rumored to be released in Oct 2014, but has not yet seen the light of day. You could use the optical master in the 70D's pop-up flash to master a ...


2

No, you don't want such a wide lens for a wedding, at least not for much. I shoot weddings using my 24-70 f/2.8 and my 70-200 f/2.8. During the ceremony, my 70-200 gets the most use with the 24-70 being used for a few shots to capture the entire room. You are constantly shooting from a distance both for the perspective it gives and also because you don't ...


2

According to the Manual: No. The longest shutter time is 15s, even in Manual Mode. No mention of a Bulb mode. Your best shot at achieving functionality is by trying out the CHDK alternative firmware, which allows an override of the Shutter Speed values, letting you select how long you want. It seems the CHDK is available for the SX160 IS (cf. here). Try at ...


2

Wait until the light is more favorable. This would probably be a time when the sky is not overcast and the sun is behind you, such as in the hour after sunrise or the hour before sunset. With proper exposure, this will allow the sky to appear blue instead of white.


1

To add to the other more technical points, I'd suggest changing the composition slightly. At the moment you have a lot of 'just' water in the bottom right. Moving the fountain down and right in the image would show more of the river (lake?) disappearing into the distance. As a general rule of thumb, putting the main subject of an image in the centre of the ...


1

"What to improve" is a very subjective question. with that in mind: one of my main dislikes about this exposure is the "burned" sky due to the long exposure. As your sky is somewhat similar in color to the fountain water, it reduces the emphasis from it. As you are probably using a tripod, I would attempt to capture a HDR (high dynamic range) image to get ...


1

In general, you want to look at the lens mount. Cameras and lenses both use some standard of connector to ensure compatibility. In general, if a lens uses the same mount, it should be basically compatible, though some features may not work. For example, third party lenses may not support automatic adjustments on newer cameras without updates. Similarly, ...


1

The only "real" RAW option is the option RAW. The other two, S-RAW and M-RAW where introduced in the EOS-1D Mark III and EOS-1D Mark IV respectively as options to decrease the file size. The S-RAW has about 1/4th the number of pixels and half the fil size of "real" RAW and the M-RAW about 54-60 % of the pixels and two thirds of the size of the RAW option. ...


1

No, this isn't a huge deal. Aside from the 1x00D series, other Canon camera models that did not have the sensor-shake/cleaning feature include: 1Ds, 1DsMkII, 1D, 1DMkII, 5D (classic), 10D, 20D, 30D, 300D (Rebel), and 350D (XT). I shot with the 350D (it was my first dSLR) for four years, I changed lenses like a mad thing, often forgetting (gasp! horror!) to ...


1

It may be possible to get most of this effect in-camera without special equipment, it shouldn't be to difficult to try - here's my attempt at deconstructing the images: Shoot raw, we are playing with lighting and it will help if we are able to fix things in post. The pictures are outside in the sunlight, try mid morning or late afternoon, it's not golden ...


1

Two ways to do it (in Photoshop) are to: Duplicate the layer of the image you want to lighten Go to Image>>Adjustment>>Exposure. Adjust to the lightness you want... THEN duplicate that layer (Note: you know have 3 layers) Go to >>Filters>>Blur>>Gaussian Blur Adjust the Gaussian Blur to a number like say "6" Really blow it out. Hit "OK" ...


1

It does not matter what you set in camera as RAW. RAW is RAW, it is not modified until post. Most monitors will not display aRGB and many printers do not print aRGB. I select aRGB as the assigned profile and my printer tells me much is out of gamut. I am forced to work in sRGB as that is where my color gamut is for my monitor and printer.



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