India Point Park

India Point Park
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12

Disclaimer: I am not a Canon shooter, nor have I owned Canon gear before. This appears to be a 300mm ƒ/2.8L USM (non IS) lens, produced from 1987 to 1999. The best collection of images, review, and information about this particular Canon lens I could find is: 300mm ƒ/2.8L at kenrockwell.com. Searching for this threw me off, because if you go to the Lens ...


8

35mm to 55mm at f/5.6 to f/8.0 will get you great results with the EF-S 18-55mm STM. I really like SLR Gear's visual interactive graphs for checking out lens image quality at various focal lengths and aperture settings. SLR Gear Lab Test Results This is what a GREAT lens looks like, and below is what a CRAP lens looks like:


6

Does it film video? No. I used a Rebel XT/350D for a long time, and I can tell you that it does not record video. It was a great camera for learning, but it's about 11 years old at this point and has been far surpassed by its successors in the Rebel line. The first Canon Rebel model to officially support video was the Rebel T1i/500D, and every model ...


4

Frankly, you don't need a new lens, although there's certainly better glass to be had than what's in your bag. You need lighting gear. Portraits are basically made by the lighting, not so much the camera and lens (see the Strobist and Tangents). And the idea that better gear gets you a better keeper rate doesn't always hold true. Better sharpness, lower ...


4

There are a large number of options available to you all over the price/reliability spectrum. You basically just want TTL-capable triggers for Canon. The difference between using them and using manual-only triggers like the V5s, is that you may be limited on what lights or other triggers play nice together, and integrating studio strobes might be more of a ...


4

If you want the highest magnification possible, then the 18-55 might yield that at 18mm. But if you want better image quality, the 50mm f/1.8, being a prime will probably yield that. BTW, there are two types of macro reversal rings: ones that let you mount a reversed lens directly to the camera mount, and others that are basically male-to-male filter rings, ...


4

From what you write I have three suggestions to make more consistent photos Set white balance to some value, this will help you to mitigate colour casts Set focus to manual and focus to particular point (also get in consideration to change aperture to have appropriate depth of field) Set flash to manual to some value, which is fine for your purpose P.S. ...


3

NB: this answer was written when the question was asking about the shutter, rather than the diaphragm. It may be deleted soon. There is no shutter in the 24-105; almost every camera system smaller than medium format has a focal plane shutter in the body, rather than a leaf shutter in the lens. The only exception I know of is the Pentax Q system.


3

The answer for you and the situation you have outlined hinges on the answer to the question, "How good is good enough?" The corollary to that question is, "How much more are you able and willing to spend to get just a little bit better?" And perhaps most importantly, "Do you have or are you willing to obtain the knowledge and skill to take advantage of those ...


3

I do use manual focus. The blurring you experience can come from several facts: Depending on the light conditions, you may not be very precise in focusing: your image may just be a little bit out of focus. This is typically the case in your sample image where the focus is in front of the head. As your sample is a macro photo, remember that in macro the ...


3

My lens will not go below 40mm, it will not get to 24mm. Any ideas are welcomed me please. Don't try to force it. Send it to Canon for service.


3

What's the minimum exposure time that can be achieved in bulb mode? Technically, the minimum exposure time is probably limited by the speed that a person can press and release the shutter button (or remote shutter release). I assume this is somewhere on the order of 0.1 seconds (1/10 shutter speed) or so. However, this is highly variable and difficult ...


3

Do you have any other idea that can help? The easiest method is to take the SD card out of the camera and stick it in the SD slot in your computer, or if you don't have a computer equipped with such a slot, into the SD slot of a memory card reader. Cheap readers cost as little as $5; better ones read faster, work with more kinds of cards, and cost maybe ...


3

The problem has nothing to do with the image not being entirely focus but more of that it is soft. At f/4.0, there is a significant softness that the lens has. When you are looking at photo 100%, this softness becomes more pronounced. Details just become harder to capture for such a small portion of the image. Remember that when you are looking through the ...


3

If pulling the cord of the RS60-E3 out of the camera jack solves the problem then the problem is not in the camera, it is with the RS60-E3. What happens if you immediately plug the cord back in? Does the shutter open back up for another exposure? It sounds like the shutter button is just getting stuck and takes a while to fully release. If you only recently ...


3

Generally speaking for portrait and event photography I would recommend getting rid of everything but the 100mm macro. Pickup a 24-70mm f/2.8 and 70-200mm f/2.8. Beyond a general recommendation I can't tell you much more. What I would recommend is bringing your images into software such as Adobe Lightroom that allows you to see the percentage of images ...


2

One is the older Canon EF-S 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS and one is the newer Canon EF-S 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS STM. The newer STM version is an all around better lens. It has slightly improved optics for slightly better image quality. It also has STM (stepper motor) Auto Focus which is faster and virtually silent. You can tell the difference in photos because ...


2

Note the minimum focal distance of the 18-55mm STM is 0,25m so this is part of the limitation on what you can shoot. Photozone indicates the maximum magnification is at 55mm, which is probably what you should use regardless of "sweet spot". Distortion, CA and vignetting are best at f8 and above and resolution at f8 is as good as you'll get across the ...


2

The Canon CL 8-120mm f/1.4-2.1 lens was designed to be used with the Canon EX1/EX2 Hi8 Video Camera with a VL mount. Canon also had a EOS to VL mount adapter so EF lenses could be used on these cameras. I would expect the pin arrangement should be the same as for an EF lens. The bad news is that the sensor size for the Canon EX1 was 1/2" which is ...


2

Auto Lighting Optimizer is one potential culprit, but it is pretty easy to rule that out. The Auto(Basic Zone) mode will default ALO to Standard, so just change your ALO setting to standard in Av and run a test. My guess is that your issue is actually the metering mode though. The Auto(Basic Zone) mode will use Evaluative Metering. Check to make sure your ...


2

In automatic modes the scale is not displaying exposure. It's instead showing you the amount of exposure compensation you have dialled in. Only in manual mode does it actually work like an exposure meter. So if your exposure compensation is set to zero the meter will not move at all. The meter reading is fluctuating in the automatic modes. It's just not ...


2

I notice that using AV or TV mode that the meter sets itself to an "average" grey automatically smack in the middle. But using Manual mode, it fluctuates alot no matter what metering i.e. evaluative, spot etc, setting i use. With Av or Tv modes, the camera adjusts shutter speed or aperture, respectively, to achieve a good exposure based on the metering ...


1

I wanted to know if I can use one yn600 on camera as Master to control another 3 flashes to fire together.. Is it possible ?? Yes. It's not only possible, it's exactly how the system is meant to work. The only thing you need to consider is whether you'll ever need that master flash to function as on-camera flash, or if you're only going to use it to ...


1

When in manual mode, the meter changes if the amount of light being metered changes. This can be due to camera movement that includes more bright or more dark areas in the part of the scene being metered. To compensate you need to manually change either the shutter speed. aperture value, or ISO. When you have modified the exposure settings to allow proper ...


1

The best answer I could find to this by googling was a "Pick and Place" blog article where the author describes what he's discovered about the EF-S mount connections: https://pickandplace.wordpress.com/2011/10/05/canon-ef-s-protocol-and-electronic-follow-focus/ It looks like you send signals on DIN's rising edge (DIN is the middle of the five small ...


1

This is not an answer to your question, but a suggestion for your setup. In order to help minimize any extra glare or reflections off of the front of your negatives or slides, try to block out the rest of the light table. Or, create some "gobos" (black absorption panels) out of dark construction paper, or black matte-painted foam board, and use them to ...


1

In addition to Caleb's answer, maybe your problem is neither the camera, nor the wire. Maybe the problem is your PC and/or USB port. So please try connecting your 6D with another PC. Also you can try to put the SD card in another PC.


1

You may be interested in this project, http://dslrdashboard.info/. It takes a TPLINK MR3040 (~$30.00, and looks awfully similar to the camranger!) and provides a dd-wrt firmware image that puts some kind of API onto the device that DSLR Dashboard uses. DSLR Dashboard appears to be available as a PC app, as well as IOS and Android. I recently bought a ...



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