Serene Life

by garik

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7

It doesn't look too bad to me. You have to consider that when you're looking at a 5D mkIII image at 100%, that amounts to a considerable enlargement. It's rare to get something really pin sharp at that magnification. The focus point is quite forward so the trees in the centre of the frame are at or near the far limit of the DOF. That combined with the ...


7

Your camera is probably not the best or fastest USB memory card reader you can own, so even if you are using the fastest card you can buy and the camera claims to be using the fastest USB protocol your computer can handle, it's not very likely that it will give you the best data transfer speeds. A high-quality, high-speed external USB card reader (there's no ...


5

The blur can be measured by converting to XYZ colorspace and zooming into a tree trunk with a bright sky as the background. You then measure the brightness profile accross the rapid change in brightness (make sure you pick an area with small gradient in the direction parallel to the tree trunk). I then used this method to estimate the blur. Since the image ...


5

Any EF lens can be used on one of Canon's full-frame cameras. Generally, when Canon makes a newer version of a lens, it's because there can either be improvements to the optical design, or they can make a cheaper version of the lens. With Ls, it's usually the former. The Mk I version of the 14L came out in 1991. The Mk II version in 2007, so you ...


4

First off, all EF lenses (L or otherwise) can be mounted on a Canon 5D. Nothing about the L precludes it from being mounted on other bodies, nor only the higher end bodies being restricted to only L lenses. The difference between the two (and I'm working from Ken Rockwell's review at Canon 14mm f/2.8 L II) Heavier (4oz heavier than the original) Built in ...


3

The 70D unfortunately doesn't support controlling group C directly. It will however fire group C flashes when set to fire ALL. (Source: The manual) The Canon optical wireless flash system still contains all three groups, it is simply a limitation of the camera body. You need something like the 580EXII to control group C.


3

In general, all camera brands have their own proprietary system for connecting lenses. Modern mounts are all bayonet style, which means they twist and lock rather than needing to screw on, as older lenses did. These mounts are not interchangeable, so you'll need a lens that matches your camera bodies. Most brands have different sub-variants of their mount, ...


3

The lens you've linked to is the Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II. It will not fit your camera, because it is a Canon EOS lens: neither the physical linkage nor the electronic contacts match those on your camera. What you're looking for is a Nikon F-mount lens. The easiest way to ensure you've got an F-mount lens is to buy a new lens that's Nikon-branded that is for ...


2

No, you don't want such a wide lens for a wedding, at least not for much. I shoot weddings using my 24-70 f/2.8 and my 70-200 f/2.8. During the ceremony, my 70-200 gets the most use with the 24-70 being used for a few shots to capture the entire room. You are constantly shooting from a distance both for the perspective it gives and also because you don't ...


2

According to the Manual: No. The longest shutter time is 15s, even in Manual Mode. No mention of a Bulb mode. Your best shot at achieving functionality is by trying out the CHDK alternative firmware, which allows an override of the Shutter Speed values, letting you select how long you want. It seems the CHDK is available for the SX160 IS (cf. here). Try at ...


2

To add to the other more technical points, I'd suggest changing the composition slightly. At the moment you have a lot of 'just' water in the bottom right. Moving the fountain down and right in the image would show more of the river (lake?) disappearing into the distance. As a general rule of thumb, putting the main subject of an image in the centre of the ...


2

Wait until the light is more favorable. This would probably be a time when the sky is not overcast and the sun is behind you, such as in the hour after sunrise or the hour before sunset. With proper exposure, this will allow the sky to appear blue instead of white.


2

"What to improve" is a very subjective question. with that in mind: one of my main dislikes about this exposure is the "burned" sky due to the long exposure. As your sky is somewhat similar in color to the fountain water, it reduces the emphasis from it. As you are probably using a tripod, I would attempt to capture a HDR (high dynamic range) image to get ...


2

The batteries are interchangeable among certain groups of cameras. You need to look at the battery's "E" number and figure out which "group of cameras" it can fit into. Below are some battery types and the cameras they fit into (not an exhaustive list) LP-E8 - EOS 550D, 600D, 700D, T2i, T3i, T4i,T5i LP-E5 - EOS Rebel XS, Rebel T1i, Rebel XSi, 1000D, ...


2

With a tested Minimum Focus Distance (MFD) of 16.81 inches at 270mm and a Maximum Magnification (MM) of 0.26x, or approximately 1:4, you can't really do Macro photography with that lens. And since it is already slow at f/6.3 at 270mm, the minimal gain you would get in terms of MM by adding extension tubes would make the lens too dark to be very useful.


2

I can't look at the RAW image at the moment, but it should be fairly sharp, but likely won't be pixel sharp on a 5D Mark iii at 100% magnification. The 24-70 f/4L isn't a prime lens and it isn't the f/2.8II. It isn't as strong of an optical performer and 22mpix is a lot of image data. (I use the f/2.8 II on my 5D Mark iii regularly.) The f/2.8II will come ...


1

You don't need any software to download the images from your camera. Just plug it in. Use iPhoto or Lightroom, etc, and they can download directly. You can also launch Image Capture, which is built into your Mac. This app will likely show your camera being attached, and offers the ability for you to define which application launches when it is attached. ...


1

There probably won't be a macro facility to 'activate' - the 'Macro' designation just means the lens can focus very close to your subject. If you are using the lens at the closest range available on the focusing scale (probably using the longer end of the zoom range at the same time) then you can safely claim to be practising macro photography. There is no ...


1

That is the result of the raw processing program not having the correct profile for the said camera. Getting an updated version should resolve your problem. The list of cameras supported by RawTherapee, together with the version number since, can be found at RawPedia.


1

RawTherapee supports Canon PowerShot G16 starting RawTherapee version 4.2.


1

In general, you want to look at the lens mount. Cameras and lenses both use some standard of connector to ensure compatibility. In general, if a lens uses the same mount, it should be basically compatible, though some features may not work. For example, third party lenses may not support automatic adjustments on newer cameras without updates. Similarly, ...


1

The only "real" RAW option is the option RAW. The other two, S-RAW and M-RAW where introduced in the EOS-1D Mark III and EOS-1D Mark IV respectively as options to decrease the file size. The S-RAW has about 1/4th the number of pixels and half the fil size of "real" RAW and the M-RAW about 54-60 % of the pixels and two thirds of the size of the RAW option. ...


1

No, this isn't a huge deal. Aside from the 1x00D series, other Canon camera models that did not have the sensor-shake/cleaning feature include: 1Ds, 1DsMkII, 1D, 1DMkII, 5D (classic), 10D, 20D, 30D, 300D (Rebel), and 350D (XT). I shot with the 350D (it was my first dSLR) for four years, I changed lenses like a mad thing, often forgetting (gasp! horror!) to ...


1

It may be possible to get most of this effect in-camera without special equipment, it shouldn't be to difficult to try - here's my attempt at deconstructing the images: Shoot raw, we are playing with lighting and it will help if we are able to fix things in post. The pictures are outside in the sunlight, try mid morning or late afternoon, it's not golden ...


1

Two ways to do it (in Photoshop) are to: Duplicate the layer of the image you want to lighten Go to Image>>Adjustment>>Exposure. Adjust to the lightness you want... THEN duplicate that layer (Note: you know have 3 layers) Go to >>Filters>>Blur>>Gaussian Blur Adjust the Gaussian Blur to a number like say "6" Really blow it out. Hit "OK" ...


1

I'm late to this question, but anyone else making a similar choice should consider that most modern DSLR's lack the optical focusing aids that were standard on manual focus cameras, and using an old lens on a new camera without some sort of aid may be more difficult than using the lens on the old camera. Back before autofocus was a standard feature (or even ...


1

It does not matter what you set in camera as RAW. RAW is RAW, it is not modified until post. Most monitors will not display aRGB and many printers do not print aRGB. I select aRGB as the assigned profile and my printer tells me much is out of gamut. I am forced to work in sRGB as that is where my color gamut is for my monitor and printer.


1

Maybe your reverse motor is stuck in the helix / bent plastic path. You need to push it to adjust. http://www.fotomozaic.ro/artikel.php?idstory=225&s=1 The motor has weak, broken gears.



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