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5

Clearly, something is broken. This camera has interchangeable lenses, so the first thing you need to determine is whether the body is damaged or just the lens. Switching for a different lens and testing out the camera is the first thing there. And if you can try the lens on a different body (borrowed from a friend?) you can also confirm that separately. ...


4

Have you checked which metering mode you are using? If you are for example are using average metering then the camera will use the whole frame to decide what setting to use. For example if the overall frame is too dark the camera will try compensate for that. Normally the different metering mode are: Average metering - Uses the whole frame Center ...


4

From an image quality standpoint the 6D has a fairly significant advantage over any of Canon's current APS-C offerings. Since the 7D Mark II has been announced but not yet released and hasn't been in the hands of most reputable reviewers/independent testers yet, it is hard to judge the image quality. Suffice it to say it would need a totally revolutionary ...


4

The EOS 6D and the EOS 7d Mark II are very different cameras in so many ways making them hard to compare. The EOS 6D is the least expensive full frame DSLR from Canon and the 7D Mark II is their most expensive APS-C. You say you are into landscape and astrophotography and in my world buying a 7D Mark II over a 6D for that is crazy. The 7D Mark Ii is made ...


3

The support for the Canon 7D's RAW files was incorporated in Camera Raw 5.6 and the latest version of Camera Raw supported by Photoshop CS2 is 3.7 so there are no support for the .cr2 files created by the 7D in CS2. Unfortunately there is no way of opening these files in such an old version of Photoshop (unless there's a strange hack that I don't know of) ...


3

Let me start by saying there isn't a wrong answer. Either camera you suggested is a HUGE improvement over an entry level model and you are jumping pretty much clean over the mid-range models. I personally jumped from an xTi (400D) to a 5D Mark iii, but I made that large of a jump because I was starting commercial photography work on the side. I know you ...


3

You say the 550D is happily serving all your needs and that you're only looking to upgrade because "it is time". May I suggest keep your 550D. It's a great camera by all means and you're already enjoying it. You can put the money you were going to spend on the camera (both that you mention would set you back more than a thousand pounds) and instead invest ...


3

There are many reasons any given camera's images can become less sharp over time. I doubt you're going to get a solid confirmation, as it would be incredibly difficult to isolate this from other sources of sharpness reduction/variation, outside of perhaps a DxOMark laboratory (with controlled conditions, several brand new cameras, known-good lenses, etc). ...


1

If your camera is exhibiting behavior other than what you should expect it to do under certain conditions and selected settings then your 7D needs to take a trip to the nearest Canon service center.


1

If this issue is progressively getting worse as you have stated, there is a good chance the autofocus sensor is in need of cleaning. If changing to a different focus zone provides better focus lock then this would tend to confirm a spec or two on the sensor. A general haze can develop on the focus sensor from condensation and/or airborne pollutants. As a ...


1

Since the Raspberry Pi is just an ARM-based computer you can run Linux distributions that compile on ARM (v6). There is a guide here where photographer David Hunt transforms his old broken battery grip (although this one was for a 5D mark II) into embedded computer that does what you're looking for among other things that can be useful for time lapse such as ...


1

You need two different heads for these two things. For the former, I don't have any direct experience, but you really need a tracking head that can counter the Earth's rotation. Such setups tend to be relatively pricey and rather unique to the field of astrophotography. For the later, I'm a huge fan of my Bogen Manfrotto 3046 base with 501HD head, which ...


1

For the most part the metering mode will affect the resulting image when shooting in Manual (M) mode only if you take the reading provided by the meter and change your manually selected values based upon that reading. There are, however, a few scenarios with Canon cameras when the meter reading is used by the camera to select a value that affects the ...


1

If the edge is only on one corner, it sounds like a lens element is probably knocked out of alignment. I'd try another lens to confirm this and then send the lens in to the manufacturer for service. You aren't going to be able to properly adjust the position of the optics yourself and it is possible something is bent inside that would make it impossible to ...


1

Well, it depends on your darkest dark and brightest bright you want to capture without hitting the sensor's and signal processor's limit. In general you will have to answer this: why do you do exposure bracketing? E.g. a Nikon 5100 has an EV range of 13.7 by itself, and also uses Active lighting, emphasizing details in shadows and bright areas, so why ...


1

You are right in saying the bracketing depends on the lighting situation. It also depends on the sensor (you might say "the camera", but the lens doesn't matter here), as it determines the dynamic range -- how far the sensor can stand before loosing detail or blowing out the whites. The other thing to consider is how many artifacts you are willing to see in ...


1

I don't familiar with a thumb rule for that, but taking 3 shots with 0, +2, -2 should cover the dynamic range you need and Photomatix knows how to handle it very good. When I use bracketing I sometimes set the compensation (meaning it's not 0) because for one shot the auto light measurement usually does a good job, but in HDR you might want more details ...


1

7D owners, I hope this fixes your problem, don't waste your time resetting the camera, wiping battery contacts, putting it in the freezer, etc. I didn't mention in posts on other forums, I've been an instrument technician for more than 40 years and don't have a problem going into the camera and making the repairs, I've done so on other Canon cameras and ...



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