Hot answers tagged canon-5d-mark-iii
14
fluorescent lights flicker, they change both intensity and color 50 or 60 times per second (depending on where in the world you are).
This produce inconsistent colors, banding at high shutter speeds and confuses the auto white balance feature.
but the solution is simple, just make sure to only get complete flicker cycles during the exposure - the ...
13
When you look closely the only thing that is the same on the feature list is the approximate number of megapixels. The mkIII is an entirely new camera, new type of chassis, new viewfinder, new shutter assembly, new button layouts, new software. Nothing has been recycled, unlike the mkII.
the higher FPS shooting, and the dual storage to SD Card are nice ...
11
The zoom helps with crop sensors but that's not the main reason. Basically on a full frame sensor the 8-15 is two lenses in one, at 8mm it's a full fisheye with a circular image and a 180 degree vertical field of view. At 15mm it's a diagonal fisheye, with 180 degrees corner to corner and no black areas.
Even if you don't want to shoot circular ...
10
First, your not going to notice much of a difference in IQ, AF, or dynamic range. The 5D MK II does amazing for wedding photographers in low-light and large prints, and the MK III only improves on that.
With that aside, it may be more beneficial to consider the other items that will impact you as the primary user of the camera.
Build The 1D has more ...
9
[Disclaimer: It has been one heck of a long time since I last did a pro wedding gig, long enough ago, in fact, that taking 240 pictures in total, or 10 24-exposure rolls of 220 Kodak VPS, was "going above and beyond". Things have changed just a bit since then, but though I'd never voluntarily shoot a wedding again—I'm not temperamentally suited to the ...
7
Neither solution is acceptable in my opinion, especially for something as important as a wedding.
Large hard drives are cheap and spare compact flash cards are not terribly expensive, so I would just get more storage and shoot raw.
If computer processing power is your limiting factor - that can be a little more expensive. Even so, a decent PC ...
7
You would have had to have looked from a steeper angle with the 40D, but unless Canon put some sort of physical barrier in place, you would have seen much the same sort of thing. You are looking at the focusing screen using the "wrong" surfaces of the pentaprism, so the image is flopped left-to-right (as it normally would be) but hasn't been righted (the ...
5
The Canon 1D X has a lower resolution for the same sensor-size which means its pixels are bigger. This gives it an edge in term of noise-per pixel, so if you are looking for pure pixel quality, go for the 1D X.
The 5D Mark III on the other hand is lighter and allows you to print slightly larger due to its higher pixel count. These cameras are otherwise very ...
5
The Canon EOS 5D Mark III is an awesome camera and so is the 5D Mark II. The $1300 price difference you quote is obviously significant but what is it worth to you is personal.
The first thing to note in the specification is that the 5D Mark III has a 100% coverage viewfinder. This is worth at least half the difference in price and the reason I would never ...
5
The 5D-III is, indeed, a very, very nice camera. The "best" camera (and lenses), though, are 100% dependent on the photographer, skill level, and subject(s) of photos. In other words, it tends to be a very personal choice, and it's very likely to evolve over time. Given the huge selection of available Canon lenses, there's also no single choice for ...
4
I assume the rating is included in the EXIF data. I wrote a PHP parser a while back that actually opened .JPGs exported from Lightroom as text, and read the rating as part of a batch export script.
There's some info on the addresses here: http://www.exiv2.org/tags.html
Tag(hex) Tag(dec)
0x4746 18246 Exif.Image.Rating
0x4749 18249 ...
4
Change the playback from slot 1 to slot 2. You'll see (and be able to delete) the photos on your SD card.
From the camera, you cannot delete the "paired" files. They are totally separate and the camera doesn't connect them logically.
That having been said, I would caution you against this process. If you need more than 32g for a session, either buy ...
4
The focus-point issue depends on your personal habits. Many people who shoot a variety of non-action photography, only ever use one focus point. Yes, one focus point, not one cross-type, one focus point in total. You do that using the focus-lock and recompose technique.
On the other hand, having multiple focus points and particularly more sensitive ones is ...
4
This is an easy answer. Are you shooting in lower light or need the most out of focus background possible? Then you will want the Canon 70-200mm f/2.8 L IS MkII. Are you often carrying the lens on your back and often needing the extra 100mm reach? Then you will want the Canon 70-300mm f/4-5.6 L IS. Do you need to both shoot in lower light and have the ...
4
There are several menu settings that affect when the red illumination of focus points is activated.
By default, the red indicator lights will only illuminate over the active focus points when focus is achieved and the brightness of the scene in the viewfinder is low. You can modify this in the menu settings. Under the AF 5 (purple) tab, select VF display ...
4
Be sure you are selecting the Single shooting option in the Drive mode setting rather than the One-Shot AF option in the AF mode setting. When the AF mode is set to One Shot, the camera can still fire continuously. With One Shot AF once focus is achieved the focus will lock until the shutter is released or the half-press is released.
4
Silent shooting mode does not affect Image Quality in any way. Rather, it affects the way your 5D mkIII cycles the mirror and shutter curtain for each shot you take.
The silent mode single option uses a slower speed to move the mirror up out of the light box. The first curtain opens, and then the second curtain closes as normal. But then, nothing else will ...
4
This is ultimatly a fairly subjective question. I think it does a pretty good job on my 5D Mark iii most of the time. It's also worth noting that you can have the 5DM3 save the individual files used (including in RAW format) so that you can always use software later even if you decide you don't like the JPEG that it produces. There are also multiple ...
4
As long as the shutter was closed the sensor itself would be protected by the shutter curtain from the light of the sun. I have heard of shutter curtains being damaged by sunlight, but that is usually in the context of a powerful telephoto lens being mounted to the camera and pointed towards the sun on an older camera with cloth curtains. On the 5DIII, the ...
4
If the index mark on your photo was at the center of the original image, the purplish blotch above and to the right of it is a ghosting of the bright light source the same distance to the lower left of it.
Ghosting is caused by the light from extremely bright sources (relative to the rest of the scene) reflecting off the front surface of a lens element or ...
3
Even though you aren't shooting sports, you may be shooting things that are fast moving. For that, only one cross-type point in the center is going to be weak, but whether or not it matters depends on the style of shooting. The 6D is a very good option for full frame consumer users looking to do traditional, family style, photography. You get very good ...
3
That is any easy thing to found out :) Just compare the cameras. Here I've done it for you.
As you can see there are several differences. 22 MP vs 21 MP which is really pretty much the same and so is 0.2" difference in LCD size. What is much more significant:
The 5D Mark III has a 100% coverage viewfinder. With the Mark II you can never see exactly what ...
3
Early reports from 1DX users are that low light performance is better with a 2/3 stop improvement over the 5D markIII. ISO 100 performance is also slightly better with less banding than the 5D mark III. There is no significant improvement in dynamic range. It remains to be seen what the colour performance is like and whether Canon have sacrificed colour ...
3
Only you can answer this question. What gaps do you have in your bag for the type of photography you enjoy? When you visualize a scene and go to grab the appropriate lens, what range is limiting you currently?
Do you frequently see motion blur in your subjects? Maybe that indicates that you need to chose something with a wider aperture then you have ...
3
If you can get 400 Euro off the price of an L lens, I would be mighty tempted to get the 70-200 f2.8L lens, and sell the f4L you have. You can get at least 400 Euro for your f4L, so that's a 800 Euro off the f2.8 IS!
Otherwise, the excellent 24-105 f4L is my second choice and the perfect 'walk around' lens for your new full frame body.
Congratulations on ...
3
The silent mode is wonderful for situations where you need to limit noise. It comes at the expense of a slower mirror movement and thus more shutter lag and slower continuous shooting.
I know the manual also talks about the difference between the Silent LV modes (yes, it is live view). Personally, those ones I didn't remember anything about because I ...
3
There simply is no such lens. 12mm is extremely wide on full-frame and, if you are talking about rectilinear lenses, only Sigma ever made any. Their 12-24mm lens is now in its second version but is essentially the same lens. Going with a fisheye, there are still only two models, one from Sigma and one from Canon. Neither accepts filters.
The extreme ...
2
If you do a lot of landscape you could go for something wider, but wide angle lenses although they yield great results are not much fun to use. Also the 14mm prime is over $2000. You could try the fisheye EF 8-15mm f/4 L. I am sure that would be fun.
However, I borrowed the 100m f 2.8 L macro for the weekend and that was fun! In fact according to this ...
2
I don't even think that an L series lens exists in your price range, so I cannot find a lens to recommend that meets you requirements.
If I had your setup, I think that I would spend a little more on the lenses and get the 24-105mm or the old 24-70mm (not the II) lens, as these would fill the gap of very usable focal ranges that you have only covered by ...
2
What do you use now? Do you use the grip? I went from 1v (film) to 5D to 1DIV. I moved back to the 1D series because I like the feel of it better. I shoot with a grip, and I'd prefer not to have a grip that can loosen at inconvenient times. Always made me nervous shooting in a slight drizzle with the 5D because of the space between the body and the ...
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