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15

fluorescent lights flicker, they change both intensity and color 50 or 60 times per second (depending on where in the world you are). This produce inconsistent colors, banding at high shutter speeds and confuses the auto white balance feature. but the solution is simple, just make sure to only get complete flicker cycles during the exposure - the ...


14

When you look closely the only thing that is the same on the feature list is the approximate number of megapixels. The mkIII is an entirely new camera, new type of chassis, new viewfinder, new shutter assembly, new button layouts, new software. Nothing has been recycled, unlike the mkII. the higher FPS shooting, and the dual storage to SD Card are nice ...


11

The zoom helps with crop sensors but that's not the main reason. Basically on a full frame sensor the 8-15 is two lenses in one, at 8mm it's a full fisheye with a circular image and a 180 degree vertical field of view. At 15mm it's a diagonal  fisheye, with 180 degrees corner to corner and no black areas. Even if you don't want to shoot circular ...


10

First, your not going to notice much of a difference in IQ, AF, or dynamic range. The 5D MK II does amazing for wedding photographers in low-light and large prints, and the MK III only improves on that. With that aside, it may be more beneficial to consider the other items that will impact you as the primary user of the camera. Build The 1D has more ...


10

If money's no object then the 5D mkIII is the better camera in almost all areas (viewfinder, resolution, autofocus, shooting speed, card slots, sync speed, weather sealing, video). Canon make a GP-E2 GPS logger and WFT-E7 wifi grip for the 5D mkIII if you need this functionality. Reasons to go with the 6D would be mostly due to weight (of both the camera ...


7

Neither solution is acceptable in my opinion, especially for something as important as a wedding. Large hard drives are cheap and spare compact flash cards are not terribly expensive, so I would just get more storage and shoot raw. If computer processing power is your limiting factor - that can be a little more expensive. Even so, a decent PC ...


7

Silent shooting mode does not affect Image Quality in any way. Rather, it affects the way your 5D mkIII cycles the mirror and shutter curtain for each shot you take. The silent mode single option uses a slower speed to move the mirror up out of the light box. The first curtain opens, and then the second curtain closes as normal. But then, nothing else will ...


7

I have used the exact setup you are using. I found that the 2X Teleconverter iii worked wonderfully with the 70-200 f/2.8 IS II on the 5D Mark iii. I actually tested it in far harder conditions (shooting a wedding in a relatively dimly lit gymnasium) and it worked quite well. Particularly since you will be using the shorter focus distance setting, I ...


7

It doesn't look too bad to me. You have to consider that when you're looking at a 5D mkIII image at 100%, that amounts to a considerable enlargement. It's rare to get something really pin sharp at that magnification. The focus point is quite forward so the trees in the centre of the frame are at or near the far limit of the DOF. That combined with the ...


6

That is any easy thing to found out :) Just compare the cameras. Here I've done it for you. As you can see there are several differences. 22 MP vs 21 MP which is really pretty much the same and so is 0.2" difference in LCD size. What is much more significant: The 5D Mark III has a 100% coverage viewfinder. With the Mark II you can never see exactly what ...


6

The Canon EOS 5D Mark III is an awesome camera and so is the 5D Mark II. The $1300 price difference you quote is obviously significant but what is it worth to you is personal. The first thing to note in the specification is that the 5D Mark III has a 100% coverage viewfinder. This is worth at least half the difference in price and the reason I would never ...


6

There are several menu settings that affect when the red illumination of focus points is activated. By default, the red indicator lights will only illuminate over the active focus points when focus is achieved and the brightness of the scene in the viewfinder is low. You can modify this in the menu settings. Under the AF 5 (purple) tab, select VF display ...


6

The 5D mk2 was released in 2008, the mk3 in 2012, 4 years is a long time in technology. The mk3 is much better, it is better because of 4 years of sensor technology research, the pixel size makes a difference only if everything else is the same - and when you compare a models that have a 4 years difference everything isn't even close to the same. If you ...


6

The base ISO of all Canon cameras is ISO 100. This is the ISO with the lowest gain, without any in-camera magickry to achieve the setting (like ISO 50, which mucks with the actual exposure settings behind the scenes). There is a lot of conjecture and misunderstanding about Canon's ISO settings because they use a "real/push/pull" model for ISO settings, ...


5

The Canon 1D X has a lower resolution for the same sensor-size which means its pixels are bigger. This gives it an edge in term of noise-per pixel, so if you are looking for pure pixel quality, go for the 1D X. The 5D Mark III on the other hand is lighter and allows you to print slightly larger due to its higher pixel count. These cameras are otherwise very ...


5

This is an easy answer. Are you shooting in lower light or need the most out of focus background possible? Then you will want the Canon 70-200mm f/2.8 L IS MkII. Are you often carrying the lens on your back and often needing the extra 100mm reach? Then you will want the Canon 70-300mm f/4-5.6 L IS. Do you need to both shoot in lower light and have the ...


5

If the index mark on your photo was at the center of the original image, the purplish blotch above and to the right of it is a ghosting of the bright light source the same distance to the lower left of it. Ghosting is caused by the light from extremely bright sources (relative to the rest of the scene) reflecting off the front surface of a lens element or ...


5

According to the guys at Magic Lantern, when you open the SD card door and the light flashes while it accesses the SD card, you should wait until several seconds after the light stops flashing as it is still accessing the card (which is silly, because that light has one job!) or you can cause the camera to lock up and drain the battery.


5

The blur can be measured by converting to XYZ colorspace and zooming into a tree trunk with a bright sky as the background. You then measure the brightness profile accross the rapid change in brightness (make sure you pick an area with small gradient in the direction parallel to the tree trunk). I then used this method to estimate the blur. Since the image ...


4

Change the playback from slot 1 to slot 2. You'll see (and be able to delete) the photos on your SD card. From the camera, you cannot delete the "paired" files. They are totally separate and the camera doesn't connect them logically. That having been said, I would caution you against this process. If you need more than 32g for a session, either buy ...


4

I assume the rating is included in the EXIF data. I wrote a PHP parser a while back that actually opened .JPGs exported from Lightroom as text, and read the rating as part of a batch export script. There's some info on the addresses here: http://www.exiv2.org/tags.html Tag(hex) Tag(dec) 0x4746 18246 Exif.Image.Rating 0x4749 18249 ...


4

Here's what I would say are the differences roughly in order of how much they actually matter. If you are predominantly a stills photographer: Vastly improved AF system (essentially the same as in the 1DX, 60 points, much better performance with f/4 and f/5.6 lenses. ...... Faster max shooting speed. 100% viewfinder. Slightly more robust/ergonomic body. ...


4

The focus-point issue depends on your personal habits. Many people who shoot a variety of non-action photography, only ever use one focus point. Yes, one focus point, not one cross-type, one focus point in total. You do that using the focus-lock and recompose technique. On the other hand, having multiple focus points and particularly more sensitive ones is ...


4

Be sure you are selecting the Single shooting option in the Drive mode setting rather than the One-Shot AF option in the AF mode setting. When the AF mode is set to One Shot, the camera can still fire continuously. With One Shot AF once focus is achieved the focus will lock until the shutter is released or the half-press is released.


4

The silent mode is wonderful for situations where you need to limit noise. It comes at the expense of a slower mirror movement and thus more shutter lag and slower continuous shooting. I know the manual also talks about the difference between the Silent LV modes (yes, it is live view). Personally, those ones I didn't remember anything about because I ...


4

This is ultimatly a fairly subjective question. I think it does a pretty good job on my 5D Mark iii most of the time. It's also worth noting that you can have the 5DM3 save the individual files used (including in RAW format) so that you can always use software later even if you decide you don't like the JPEG that it produces. There are also multiple ...


4

As long as the shutter was closed the sensor itself would be protected by the shutter curtain from the light of the sun. I have heard of shutter curtains being damaged by sunlight, but that is usually in the context of a powerful telephoto lens being mounted to the camera and pointed towards the sun on an older camera with cloth curtains. On the 5DIII, the ...


4

There simply is no such lens. 12mm is extremely wide on full-frame and, if you are talking about rectilinear lenses, only Sigma ever made any. Their 12-24mm lens is now in its second version but is essentially the same lens. Going with a fisheye, there are still only two models, one from Sigma and one from Canon. Neither accepts filters. The extreme ...



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