Lightnings taking a ride

by ceinmart

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6

Maybe he accidentally set the AF/MF switch to manual focus. Edit: It's not entirely clear what's happening here. In your title, you say "autozoom," but the body says "autofocus." I'm assuming the former is a mistake, and the issue is what you state in the content of your question. What you are asking is, "is it possible for AF to be disabled when switching ...


6

DPReview's done a great job on that. Highlights (advantage XSi): Higher resolution Better autofocus Highlight tone priority Improved viewfinder Of these, the sensor & processor are worth the price of admission.


5

No, sorry. Some of the Canon EOS range have the ability to wirelessly trigger external flashes from their own, on board, pop up flash. This works by the flash sending out a very quick "burst" of flashes like a code, immediately prior to taking the photograph. The flash unit itself, separate from the camera senses these flashes from the camera body, ...


4

Rob Galbraith did an experiment with a Canon 450D here which may be useful to you: http://www.robgalbraith.com/bins/camera_multi_page.asp?cid=6007-9424 He seems to suggest the camera will write at max of 11-14MB's. The 450D has a similar sized sensor (similar size photo) and the same image processor so your 1000D will be similar. If you shoot in JPG a high ...


4

Mainly the XSi will have a higher resolution 12/10MP, more focus points 9/7, larger LCD screen 3in/2.5in, and a faster continuous drive 3.5fps/3fps. They are more similar then they are different. If the price difference is much, I would save the money and spend it on a lens.


3

This error usually show up when there is faulty connection between camera and lens. This fault is because of those copper connections on camera or lens or both. Almost all Canon's camera shows this error in similar conditions. Have a look, http://kpixel.com/wp/2011/05/canon-eos-error-01-err01-the-worst-case-scenario/ ...


3

Spot metering would be handy, especially for portraits, but you can always take a test shot first and check the histogram. Wireless remote control is also a nice-to-have, for example setting up a wildlife shot and then retreating from the camera. However you will still have the option of using a cable release. Also the viewfinder is slightly smaller (0.81x ...


3

I've got a Lumopro LP160. This is a nice flash for manual-mode use - it's got power comparable to the 580EX, and a rotating, tilting zoom head. It works as an optical slave, with a mode that ignores TTL pre-flashes. I believe this flash unit is a favorite of the strobist crowd, as they tend to favor manual flash settings, anyway. I paid $160 for mine -- ...


2

If you prefer manual flash, you can try Yongnuo YN-560, or the newly released YN-565EX speedlite. The YN-565EX is said to be a duplicate of the famous Canon 580EX II and is pretty much a 580EX II without HSS and master capabilities but it can be a ETTL or optical slave. A lot of photographers here use this flash and due to its low price, they're very popular ...


2

The cheapest Canon DSLR that has the ability to trigger a flash wirelessly is the Canon 60D. I have one, and used it in this mode to trigger a 430 EXII flash in the past. My experience was not great, you need direct line of sight between the front of the camera and the sensor in the front of the flash unit, so you end up having to position your flash in ...


2

The official specification from the Canon website says it supports SD and SDHC cards. Not SDxc, though (which use the exFAT file system instead of FAT32 on SDHC). So as long as you stick to an SDHC card, you can use a 32GB card without any problem. The card class is only the "guaranteed supported speed" that the card supports, in reading and writing. You ...


2

Assuming you are using ETTL, and are not happy with your camera's choices regarding flash power, just set the FEC (flash exposure compensation). You can bias the camera to to use less power, a very nice discussion of this can be found here. The important takeaway is that your camera cannot know what you are thinking and there is no difference (to your ...


2

Try another lens. In some cases, this can be a problem with the lens itself. I had a 17-85mm lens show this problem a while back -- it turned out to be a ribbon cable buried deep in the lens that had started to pinch at some zoom positions.


2

With your XS/1000D, you have no built-in capability to trigger a remote flash. The XXXXD range of Canon dSLRs have never had this capability. The XXXD dRebels only have it with the T3i/600D and later models. Wireless eTTL To use Canon's proprietary "wireless eTTL" triggering, you'd have to use a master unit on the hotshoe: a 90EX, ST-E2, 550EX, 580EX, ...


1

No, you will not get the full functionality of the 600EX-RT/ST-E3-RT system with your XS. But you will get all the functionality you would have with the 430EXII or a 580EXII over optical--most notably, remote power control, eTTL, and high-speed sync. The Canon RT radio system added some functionality to the older optical triggering system that you can ...


1

You'll certainly be able to use ETTL with the 600EX-RT and ST-E3-RT. However, you won't be able to use the ST-E3-RT to control your 430EX II units, as it lacks optical triggering. You could use the 600EX-RT to control those 430EX II's optically, including using ETTL, but that kinda defeats the purpose of buying the radio-capable units. Some options: Skip ...


1

When attached with a working E-TTL cable the flash should behave exactly as if it were connected directly to the hot shoe. One thing you may want to check is the alignment of the connections at both ends of the cable. Make sure the cable is inserted all the way into the hot shoe and that the flash is inserted all the way into the other end of the cable. And ...


1

You can pick up 2 LumoPro QuadSync strobes, which can be optically triggered by the Rebel's on-board flash (even ignores pre-flash), for the cost of one Canon 430 EX. The potential disadvantage is that they are manual-only, no E-TTL. But a little time spent at Strobist (Lighting 101) can help :-)


1

The shutter count should be in the EXIF information, which you can read with ExifTool or other EXIF readers. There is an EOF utility here which you could try. Or you can upload a JPG to myshuttercount and it will tell you.


1

Try the Metz MZ36, a well respected budget brand. It has E-TTL, which means it can use exposure information taken Through The Lens to work out how much flash is needed. You can also tilt the flash head up to bounce it off the ceiling, essential for avoiding blown out faces.


1

Since the settings get lost after switching off, have you tried changing the lithium battery (the one for date and time)? For my EOS it's the CR2016 model. The following link suggests to check the secondary battery, too: Turn off your Canon 1000D and remove the memory card, lens, battery and time/date secondary battery. The secondary battery is a small, ...


1

I did quite a bit of research and the consensus seems to be that a Class 6 card will be worthwhile (faster than a Class 4) but that going with a card that's faster than a Class 6 doesn't provide any meaningful speed upgrade.


1

As for control, I think they both have the same number of buttons/controls. For a complete comparison you can always use dpreview.com: http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/sidebyside.asp Here are the main things I can find: No high ISO No movie capability Sub-standard LCD



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