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You apparently have Highlight Correction activated. This forces the higher ISO limit (usually forcing it from 100 to 200, though you also have Expanded Sensitivity enabled, which gives you a broader ISO range starting at 80, thus now 160). So, there's nothing wrong with your camera. Mind you: Options you find that look superior may come with a downside. ...


Aside from opening up the aperture to its maximum (bearing in mind the depth of field issues this will bring) you can increase the exposure time if you steady the camera against a solid object. For example press the camera against a column or rest it on a pew. It's surprising the length of exposure you can get away with without suffering camera shake.


The only settings that make shooting in a dark environment easy is the one you change at a light switch. You can't change the basics of physics. To develop a photo, a certain number of photons have to reach your sensor. Either you give them a bigger opening (faster lens) which requires a better lens and also reduces depth of field, you increase the ...


I had a must-have photo that was too dark or grainy for the same reasons. I went with a stylized image using a photo as a starting point. This was pre-digital: T-max 400, pushed to 800. That is a high-quality B&W film for you youngsters.


In addition to the points mattdm has made, you can shoot a few pictures of the same scene in rapid succession. Unlike when using a tripod, you won't be able to achieve perfect alignment of the pictures; without a tripod, the shifts will be rather large and then the fact that there will be a parallax will prevent you from perfectly aligning the pictures. But ...


Camera settings are never going to make this easy. Photographs need light to work, and while modern sensors are actually quite sensitive, they can't live up to our perceptions, because our brains take the dark, noisy image from our eyes and subconsciously make a mental model where the imperfections aren't noticed. You don't mention what lens you are using, ...


So, it depends on what you're trying to replicate, here. The G16 is a small-sensor camera, but a fairly nice one, and you can get good results in good conditions, especially at "web sizes" as shown on photo-sharing sites. One thing I want to note to start is that the perfectly straight vertical lines strongly suggest that this photo was shot in RAW and had ...


There is a formula, it's called the exposure equation. However, I doubt it will be helpful. In general, you should not try to replicate someone else's settings unless you have exactly the same lighting conditions. I would suggest you simply trust your meter, at least as a starting point. If the exposure as per the meter is not good, then you can apply a ...


The hole stays wide open to let in the maximum amount of light when you're composing and focussing. The hole closes down to the specified aperture value at the moment the shot is being taken. That's a feature, not a bug.


The "thingy" you can turn on the lens is a focus dial. Most modern lenses don't have a separate manual aperture control, instead relying on the body for automatic aperture setting. And even if the lens supported manual aperture control, except for on very, very old lenses, the aperture diaphram stays open until you press the shutter, at which point it is ...

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