Not Your Everyday Banana

by Bart Arondson

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17

I've done a lot of travel with dSLR equipment and cards, I've never had an issue, it's safe to send through. The issue, historically, was with film since x-rays are light and could affect the film.


16

Condensation is the biggest risk, and prevention is always better than cure. One thing I do prior to entering such environments is to place a lens cloth over the front element, and heat it with the heat from my hand prior to entry -- the target is to get the front element above the dew point for the area you're going into. With the specific case of the Eden ...


15

Most lenses aren't perfectly sealed which means you can get moisture on the internal glass elements as well as the front and this can take a while to clear, leading to mould forming which is very bad. You're unlikely to damage a lens if this happens occaisonally but it's just better to avoid condensation in the first place. Condensation occurs when moving ...


13

I customised a tupperware container by adding foam padding to carry a 30D + EF-S 10-22 whilst skiing/cycling. The camera and lens fits really snugly and the whole outfit is very lightweight, waterproof and goes nicely into a small backpack. It's survived several crashes whilst skiing so far, I highly doubt a little vibration will do it any damage (provided ...


11

The safest position for your SLR is in your bank's safety deposit box. Once you decide you want to take pictures, you must accept some non-zero risk of damage to your camera. Camera in bag with lens facing up: - Harder/slower to remove camera from bag. - If bag hits ground, you must ship the body off to repair the screen Camera in bag with lens facing ...


10

The best advice I've heard is to put your camera in a sealed plastic bag for several minutes to let it adjust temperature. That way when you take it back out, there isn't condensation on the lens.


9

I have been a mountain bike rider since 2000, I do a lot of trails, singletrack and even downhill. I have some experience with crashes and carrying cameras. My most sincere advice as both, a biker and a photographer is, you can't do both. Most of the time having delicate equipment in your backpack keeps you from fully enjoying the ride, because you'll ...


9

It's completely safe for the equipment. From what I can tell, it's not really a question about the x-rays affecting the device, it's being able to determine if they are shells around bombs. If I recall correctly, the Lockerbie bombing was done with a laptop shell around the bomb; other complicated electronics could also be used in a similar fashion. By ...


7

Yes. It is completely safe. You have nothing to worry about.


5

I don't think it particularly matters. I have multiple different cases from Canon and the default configurations of the cases put the camera in different orientations in each. My shoulder bag puts the camera level with the ground with a small lens attached, just like it would be if I was about to shoot with it. MY backpack offers two different options, ...


5

Normal humidity (i.e. not something like rain forest) is not much of a problem as long as the gear is the same temerature as the air. It's temperature changes that causes problems. The water stays in the air, unless there is something colder that cools the air around it and makes it deposit the water as condensation. Moving a warm camera into colder air is ...


4

It is quite safe, but only due to low-level-radiation digital X-rays on the scanners side and modern error-correction, fault-tolerance, sometimes chance on the users side. If you knock out a bit with X-Rays in a common picture-file today, you won't notice - one bit in four MByte-files will mostly be at a place where you'll never notice the difference. ...


4

Use Desiccant Packets Desiccant packets are often found in new product shipments to absorb moisture. As I can, I save these packets to reuse in my camera bag when traveling. If you’re not the saving type it is possible to order new desiccant packets online. While its impossible for these packets to absorb all the moisture in a camera bag that ...


4

Fact: The camera is safer in the bag than when it is not. Therefore: I would claim that the safest position to have the camera in the bag is a position that makes it easy to access the camera, as otherwise you are less likely to put the camera back in the bag.


3

Generally speaking it doesn't matter if you leave the lens in AF or MF. AF will prevent the lens barrel from moving, however, so might be the safer choice. You should take the lens off your camera only when absolutely necessary to avoid getting dust in the camera itself. There's no need to take the lens off the camera when not in use.


3

Before setting the camera down I often do a quick check to see that the hood is on tightly and correctly, and retract the zoom. That is, the lens should be in its shortest position because the weight is least likely to cause any undue pressure. I don't know how tough the hood on your lens might be. Modern Nikon hoods all seem to be about the same, which is ...


3

Ocean Conditions This may only be a Isolated problem, however I shoot a lot of sea scape shots. The house is of course air conditioned. When the camera and equipment is moved from the house to the area where I am going to shoot I find that condensation will built up in the equipment. This cost me a great deal to repair after a spotting issue developed on ...


3

Yes, vibration can damage parts of your camera (+lens). It depends - as other pointed out - a bit on how good the transmission of the amplitudes is. Keeping it on the body with your spine offering dampening would be a good choice, keeping it in a bag on the carrier will transmit every shake very direct. Anecdotal evidence: I took my Canon A1 along on some ...


2

Your best bet is to invest in a backpack-style camera bag with proper internal padding and straps to make sure everything stays in place. As with everything in photography, you can spend as much or as little as you like, but there's no point in scrimping. Try: Vanguard UP-Rise 48 Lowepro Pro Runner 350 AW Kata Bug-203 PL


2

A scratch on the focusing screen won't affect Auto Focus at all, since the light used for AF, whether phase detection or contrast detection, doesn't pass through the focusing screen. It will only affect what you see through the viewfinder. If severe enough it might affect metering, which does use light that passes through the focusing screen. But a single ...


2

Some lenses are driven by a motor in the camera (usually cheap or old ones) - in "compressing" the lens you will be driving the motor in the camera. - in Nikons this is a little slotted pin in the mounting ring - this is not on the lower-end cameras. Switching to manual focus retracts the drive pin back into the cmaera body, allowing the focus ring to ...


2

Not having full time manual focusing still means you have both Auto and Manual modes, if I am correct. With lenses that have a manual mode I have not faced any problem at all- I do this regularly. After turning off the camera, I switch to manual, twist it to shortest length and switch back to Auto to keep it in place.


2

Lens should be facing DOWN! Because lenses breathe, pull in dirt, particles, etc. If you store lens facing up, then all these fall into the camera body, hitting mirror, and maybe jamming mechanics. This is even more true with a cheap lens: if a small rubber/plastic/etc. gets dislodged, it will fall into the camera body...


2

Indifferent. In AF it will prevent movement of the focus ring but if the ring is forced somehow, it could cause damage to the focus gears or motor (if it isn't full time MF capable). In MF, you don't have to worry about damage to the gears, but the lens itself may now loosen up and may cause added wear and tear on the lens from actuating. Both cases are ...


1

I like sideways mounting also. The DSLR's of today are much lighter in weight than yesterday's camera. That said, I would try a fabric store and see if you can't buy a small (probably smallest they will sell) a small 3 or 4inch "block of foam rubber" to place under the lens for support.


1

The safest position for the camera to be in is almost definitely the most secure position. If you've got a shoulder bag chances are good there's a "bottom" that always sits on the table, floor, or ground, so it's easy to argue that one position is "up." Other bags, like a messenger style or backpack are likely to be set down on the bottom or back -- so ...


1

Been using a Canon for about 2 years now. The best position for me would be with the lens up. This protects the lens from collisions.


1

Try putting the camera on the side (opposite of the release button). This will most likely give you about the same relative angle between camera-lens-ground as you're used too. (I couldn't find a picture - yet.)


1

Generally speaking, true telephoto lenses have their own tripod mounting ring so that the lens itself is attached to a quick release plate and directly to the tripod. The center of gravity when a camera is attached should ultimately land near the point where the lens attaches to the tripod. This is a specific aspect of lens design in that it allows larger ...


1

My Minolta digital camera produced a perfect picture right before I arrived at the airport. The next picture after passing security was a big white (like over exposed) blob hardly showing the details of the pictures with lines through it. All subsequents pictures I took were like that. The pictures that were on the card prior were not damaged. My phone also ...



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