It's a bird

by Vian Esterhuizen

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15

In days of old, the shutter release was pneumatically triggered from an air bulb. You squeeze the bulb for as long as you want the exposure. From The Focal Encyclopedia of Photography: When lens shutters were introduced in the 1880s, one way of tripping the mechanism was by squeezing a rubber bulb that was connected, by a long rubber tube, to a small ...


3

Because it always worked that way. Considering that the mode was mainly for long-duration photography a couple of jiggles at each end of the exposure would not have been noticeable. The word comes from the day shutters were operated by squeezing a rubber bulb - the shutter is open as long as you keep squeezing. Another "because it's always been that way" ...


3

Bulb mode holds the shutter open until you close it (or allow it to close). As you said, hold the shutter release down, or use a wireless remote. If you want more precise timing, something like TriggerTrap is what you want.


3

You can use a wired remote release that has a built in intervalometer, such as this fairly inexpensive one or this one. Regardless of the brand name stamped on them, they all seem to be made identically. You then set the camera to Bulb and let the timer in the remote open and close the shutter.


2

Sorry, the P520 will only expose for up to 8S at ISO100. For 200 and 400 it's 4 seconds, decreasing to 1/2 second max at HI1 ~ISO64000) This is very disappointing and is teh weakest aspect of an otherwise excellent camera IMHO.


2

Taking a look at page 78 of the manual as far as I can tell your camera does not have any option to extend beyond 8 seconds in camera. I also don't see an option for a remote control or shutter release that would give that ability. You could(and should) stack multiple 8 second exposures in post processing though. Take a look at this existing question: How ...


2

If your hands are not particularly shaky, you may actually get less camera shake from holding down the shutter than you would by releasing it and pressing it again. Basically, with the hold-down method, the possible sources of camera shake will be: two small bumps from slightly moving your finger to press and release the shutter button, motion of the ...


1

You can use also the Nikon ML-L3 infrared remote for exposures up to 30 minutes. A press on the button opens the shutter and a second one closes it, see page 73 of the manual. The 30 seconds mentioned on page 81 are the maximum delay between the first press of the button on the remote and the opening of the shutter when the remote control mode is remote ...


1

In digital cameras, there are a few reasons for the limit: The sensor does not integrate light as well as silver halide photography does, unless the sensor is cooled (which also improves "film" time exposures). There is a buildup of electronic noise, so that the image becomes unusable; see Image noise and Digital Camera Image Noise. During long exposures, ...


1

Yes you can, but as far as I know, you cannot do it with the 622C alone. You can definitely do it with the addition of a 622C TX. I took a couple of my daughter doing exactly what you want to do. There is a description of how I did it with the photos on Flickr. Full size Another example


1

I think that firing the flash manually gives you a lot more interesting possibilities than rear curtain sync. If you want to have rear curtain sync, just push the (flash) button at the end of the exposure (just before releasing the shutter button) That being said, you can fire the flash at any time during the bulb exposure. If a dancer jumps, you probably ...


1

Pocketwizard's wiki says you cannot use 2nd curtain together with bulb mode if you are relying solely on the camera to trigger the flash in sync with the second curtain. Because in bulb mode the exposure is terminated by the photographer after an arbitrary period of time, there's no way for the camera to predict when that will be, and therefore no way for ...



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