New answers tagged autofocus
D7000 Manual (p99) clearly states that having the lens on "M" while having the body on "AF" can cause damage to the camera. It does not say in what order the switches should be set so the safest procedure might be to turn the camera to the "off" position while setting the two switches.
Go to page 357 of the 760D manual. You need to use a Custom Function to change the AE Lock button to a Back Button focus button. Use C.Fn-10 set to option 1. Here is a video that also describes how to do it: How-to back button focus on the Canon T4i, T5i, T6i, T6s
Sometime you have to make do with what you have. That said: Avoid shooting through the car windshield glass. It lower the details and usually can fools the AF system. Use a polarizer filter. Good for the mist in the air, should help with those mountains in the background Shoot in raw. Shoot in raw. Shoot in raw. If you shoot in raw the camera doesn't ...
Judging by the dead trees in the bottom right, it's simply focused on those trees, and not what you're hoping for. Also, that long focal length means your depth of field is less, so it's harder to get more things in focus. http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html
Disadvantages, well speed and potentially (depending on the distance needed) the TECHART PRO may run out of space making some lenses focus extremities unavailable. Larger heavier lenses may be to heavier for the focus as well. Overall however it's a very interesting concept, with very few real downsides.
Use AE-L/AF-L button. go to Custom Setting Menu -> Controls -> Assign AE-L/AF-L button and set it to AF-ON. Now point your camera towards your object and half press the shutter button. Once focused press AE/AF-L button. focus will lock.
From the manual, page 33: Choose from the following focus modes. [...] Manual focus followed by some pictures showing how to select a specific focus mode which I'm not going to try to reproduce here, but the steps are basically: Place the cursor in the information display. Display focus mode options. Choose a focus mode.
Another trick, which avoids changing settings but is easier with a tripod is to autofocus, release, flick the switch on the lens to set manual focus, then recompose and shoot. I sometimes do this, or occasionally change focus point, but I prefer a half press to lock the exposure as well as the focus (if the background is lighter than the subject it's often ...
Your camera is locking both focusing and metering with shutter button half-press - focus lock is called AFL, metering lock is called AEL. It will be most convinient for you to setup your camera to not lock metering with half-press. You do not need to use additional buttons for that at all despite other suggestions.
It sound like your camera is locking the exposure in addition to the focus when you perform a half shutter press. This would explain the overexposure when moving from a dark river to the bright sky: the camera is set to expose a dark scene properly, but it then gets pointed at a brighter scene, and subsequently over exposes. The converse is true as well, ...
This happens because (by default) a half-press on the shutter not only sets the auto-focus, but the auto-exposure as well. If you don't want to set the exposure or focus manually, you can set one of the function buttons to activate auto-exposure lock ("AEL"). With this setup, you would point the camera at the object you want to expose for first, push the AEL ...
Maybe invest some time in DoF Master online or use DoFViewer app to do some distancing ahead of time. Maybe best not to go much below 35mm when shooting the group photo as rectilinear distortion creeps in markedly at the edges (bowing effect). It can be dealt with in LR - Develop - Lens adjustment but better to avoid in camera. Take a "heads up" view of ...
AI (Auto-Intelligent) Focus (It is an uppercase "i", not a lowercase "L" or a numeral "1") is one of those things that sounds good in theory but often doesn't work well in practice. Sometimes it does, but at other times it doesn't. I prefer to set my camera to either One Shot or AI Servo, rather than splitting the difference with AI Focus that starts in One ...
There are two answers to that question, on dSLRs the focal plane and focus sensor can be a bit off (misaligned), hence why you may need micro-adjustments - usually however it will not be misaligned by the z axis so it shouldn’t be based on AF points, but in theory it could be. In mirrorless cameras, the focus is done on the images sensor so you will not ...
If you want something that does low light and fast autofocus, chances are good you'll need to double or triple your budget and get a substantially different type of camera. The bridge cameras you're looking at are built to be low-cost versatile superzooms, where most of the money has gone to getting you super long reach. But it gets there with a combination ...
If you are serious about fast autofocus and low-light performance, you will have to consider cameras which can satisfy those needs. You cannot decide between models when neither distinguishes itself for your needs. Low light performance requires a larger sensor. Incidentally, more sensitive cameras often autofocus faster too. The other major factor is the ...
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