Evening

by w.hrybok

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Autofocus can be determined using the main image sensor, by employing the contrast detection method. This means that the camera utilizes the fact that adjacent pixels tend to differ a lot in contrast when the image is focused in that area. This method only works, as you've noted, when the main image sensor is exposed though. The 6D has a mirror that only ...


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A DSLR (just as a SLR) uses focus sensors instead of the image sensor to do focusing and focus tracking. Typically the focus sensors are placed below the mirror, and the mirror is semi-transparent to let some light through to the focus sensors, and small mirrors on the back of the mirror direct the light to the sensors. \ ...


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Take a photo (with AF) of something flat and fairly regular (like a brick wall) that is parallel to the camera sensor at your normal working distance. If the entire image is soft or if some corners are noticeable softer than the other corners (there is always some variation, only worry if the difference is big enough to be noticeable at normal viewing ...


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Take some pictures! Using Auto Focus, are the images in focus? Is the point of focus the same distance from the camera on each side of the frame? On the top and bottom? I would be more concerned about the lens mount flange remaining parallel to the sensor. Test this by taking the fastest lens (widest aperture) you have and shoot a flat surface such as a ...


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In the second image there's a metal-bar-looking-thingy right between the mother's and father's head that is very much in focus (at least it looks like that on the web-sized image) - so I would guess the AF focused on that bar and not the mother's face. The area covered by the AF sensor is substantially larger than the rectangle you see in the viewfinder so ...


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Not necessarily the cause, but I have the same lens (on Nikon mount) and it has been reported to suffer from relatively bad autofocus and sometimes front-focus issues. I saw it happen sometimes with 50 mm focal length, wide aperture (f/4 may still be considered wide in this respect) and close subjects. Your pictures are not actually close-ups, so I would be ...


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1/3000 Such bright light is crazy fast! What is your ISO here? General rule of thumb suggests you want the slowest ISO possible for the conditions (to avoid noise). Another rule of thumb (for handheld photos), if your shutter speed is faster than your focal length you should be fine (ie., 24mm and 1/30 sec or 200mm at 1/200 should produce shard imagery). No ...


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Probably Fujis X-M1 and other X-Trans sensor Fuji cameras. They have impressive low-light performance (not the autofocus, but the image result), even better then DSLR and even Full frame sometimes - check out image comparison on dpreview for high-iso. Colors are nice as well. But they force you to use JPEG at high iso, and I think you might have to do manual ...


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I'm having similar problems with my E-PM2. I think that you can't escape some trial and error. I was trying to take a photo of someone sleeping in the dark. I found a spot in the room which was enough illuminated to allow me to focus on. I attempted to place myself at the same distance from this illuminated object as I would be from my subject, and focused ...


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If your camera supports focus tracking and you are shooting in that mode (could not find the info about this), the camera keeps focus. Otherwise, depth-of-field (DOF) will determine if the object stays in focus or not. That is determined by many factors, see the entire Depth of Field Wikipedia article, which describes the phenomenon. The section "Factors ...


1

When you've focused the lens at a certain point you've actually focused an entire plane (that includes the point you've set your focus at) called the focal plane. This plane is perpendicular to the optical axis of the lens. Objects that are close to this plane (but not in it) may be acceptably in focus depending on the depth of field. The left diagram ...



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