Watching Over

by Vian Esterhuizen

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Touch focus just uses your touch to choose the area of contrast on which to base focus. The auto mode just decides that for itself. There's nothing physically different with the actual focus process.


Most AF systems offer a tracking mode, usually called something like "servo AF" or "continuous AF". In these modes the camera does indeed attempt to calculate the velocity of the object being tracked and account for the time to raise the mirror and open the shutter. In the top of the line bodies the calculations are quite sophisticated and will take ...


In general, you'd want to focus on a spot midway, to slightly closer than midway, between near and far objects of interest. So, if your shot includes cars 1-4 blocks away, focus on a car ~2 blocks away. You'll also want to increase your aperture so that more of your pictures are in focus. How much you can increase it depends on the amount of ambient ...


I suspect the switch is busted. You should be able to disable AF to give yourself full control over the focal point without AF changing it on you. Additionally the body should not (well, can't) override whatever is set on the lens.


Yes, the MF position is supposed to disable AF (I suspect you're not actually surprised by this) - sounds very much like the switch is broken.


Is it possible to take two cameras? When I go out to casually shoot something in my own time, I take one camera and shoot on manual: the usual mode of operation, I assume, for most occasions. When at an event, however, it can be useful to carry two: one is set up fully (or mostly) automatic in order to allow you to quickly point and shoot at interesting, ...


Here's a secret: nobody actually cares what mode you were shooting in so long as the quality is good. (Equally, nobody cares what gear you're using either). Therefore if you get good quality shots in program mode, full auto or anything else, go for it. That said, program mode does take away a significant amount of your artistic control - did you want the ...


Someone said to me once that I had invested in a powerful computer (in relative terms anyway, it is a secondhand Canon EOS 40D) but am not using any of the capabilities I had paid for: ie the ability to let the camera make reasonably good judgements about the scene. I almost always shoot in manual mode, mainly because when I was first learning photography ...


Do whatever gives you the best results, don't worry about what may or may not be acceptable to others. I'd say shooting events fully manual is rare these days, though you might want to explore the aperture-priority and shutter-priority modes, each of which are very good for certain situations. I'd also investigate auto-ISO if your camera offers it. My ...


Maybe. This kind of test is hard to get right. It does look focused more to the front, especially if it really did grab that area as the focus point. However, how far away are you testing from? Your lens/camera combo may front-focus in this range and not so much at normal shooting distances. For that reason, and because the diagonal paper is hard to get ...


It appears your test chart and camera may not be properly aligned with each other. Until that is corrected your results will not be valid. If, as appears to be the case, the left side of the chart is farther from the camera than the right side, then it is possible that the portion of the chart displaying -10mm is the same distance from the camera as the ...

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