by Jakub

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It seems several things are going on here at once. You seem new to using PDAF through the viewfinder of a DSLR. There is a learning curve involved. It is just as significant a learning curve as the one encountered when moving from a compact, small sensor camera that yields almost limitless depth of field to a larger sensor camera that means the depth of ...


Don't panic! There actually is an autofocus switch on the lens itself. You may have glanced over this in the manual but not paid attention. The entire focus ring can actually click forward or backwards. When it's back, a distance scale is exposed and the lens is in manual focus mode. When it's forward, autofocus. You must have moved it inadvertently. Push it ...


I am sorry, I have just made a typical mistake. I had not tried to erase all configuration data in the camera before asking (with the option in the menu). I though I had tried changing every related option but it seems I left one of them. Just restoring the configuration to preset values has made it magicly work. In the end I still don't know why it ...


Doing as you mentioned by keeping same distance and moving backwards usually produces the best results. Note using manual focus is usually the most accurate option. Using the continuous auto modes works quite well on the pro line sports camera and not too bad on the better consumer models. You should really read the Nikon documentation for ...


Did you manually set the focus by rotating the focus point all the way left\right? If so that could be your problem. On many modern lenses infinity is not actually at the end of rotation, but a little bit before, I.e. you can focus past infinity (and thus out of focus). I believe this is due to the way autofocus mechanisms work. The auto focus needs to go ...


Use AI-Servo and Continuous shots and hope for the best. You can try with one point or more. All these will sometimes work, otherwise fail. It's all about taking chances. It's about luck

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