Nidelva river through Trondheim Norway

Nidelva river through Trondheim Norway
by Saaru Lindestokke                

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10

It sound like your camera is locking the exposure in addition to the focus when you perform a half shutter press. This would explain the overexposure when moving from a dark river to the bright sky: the camera is set to expose a dark scene properly, but it then gets pointed at a brighter scene, and subsequently over exposes. The converse is true as well, ...


5

While trying to answer this, I realized there is no answer. Most of the times I use Spot meteting with AE-L because it makes a lot of sense. I point the camera where I want to meter the mid-tone (actually I do that with highlights and EC+3 most of the time but the idea is the same) and then lock the exposure in order to compose my image the way I want to. ...


5

Short answer: what you want to do is to switch to spot metering mode, place the face of your subject in the exact center of the frame (no need to zoom in unless the subject's face is really small in the picture), press exposure lock, reframe and take the shot - now the subject will be properly expose and the background will be over-exposed. Longer ...


5

Most advanced cameras allow you to separate exposure and/or focus lock from a half press of the shutter button to allow each photographer to choose how and when focus and exposure are locked for a given composition. Even what happens by default in the camera's "factory" settings will often vary based on what shooting modes in terms of exposure and focus are ...


4

If the camera is set to AF-C, then the concept of locking focus at a particular object/distance makes no sense. On the contrary: if the camera is set to continuous autofocus (AF-C), it's going to constantly adjust the lens to keep focus while the shutter button is half-pressed. That's great for moving subjects, like athletes. But that's not always what ...


3

This happens because (by default) a half-press on the shutter not only sets the auto-focus, but the auto-exposure as well. If you don't want to set the exposure or focus manually, you can set one of the function buttons to activate auto-exposure lock ("AEL"). With this setup, you would point the camera at the object you want to expose for first, push the AEL ...


3

Your camera is locking both focusing and metering with shutter button half-press - focus lock is called AFL, metering lock is called AEL. It will be most convinient for you to setup your camera to not lock metering with half-press. You do not need to use additional buttons for that at all despite other suggestions.


2

Use "auto exposure lock" - which is the button marked "AE-L" on the back of your camera - whenever your subject starts to move somewhere that could cause a change in exposure. This video explains how to use exposure locking on the D7000 - Nikon D7000 Tutorial: Using the exposure lock setting.


2

Either of these approaches will work fine. You should use whichever works more naturally for you. With the spot metering approach, what you're doing is looking for something which has the tone which you would like to make the middle/neutral key for the image. That's what the metering system does. If you want the object you meter from to be brighter or ...


2

Am I missing something? You're missing a lot. Tying autofocus to the shutter button half press works well at times. But it can also limit the ability of the photographer to control both when and how the camera autofocuses. Allowing the user to decide when AF and AE are active and when they are not independently of each other as well as independently of ...


1

This varies slightly depending on the camera and how it is configured. Essentially though, AF-L allows you to lock focus without locking down anything else. It obviously does not apply in MF mode but otherwise you can lock focus and then press the shutter-release halfway to lock exposure and then wait for the right moment before fully depressing the ...


1

You use spot metering with AE lock when you are faced with a high-contrast scene that may confuse the metering system and want to expose for a particular point in the scene. An obvious example is a backlit subject that is away from the center of the picture you want to take. This technique is also highly useful for shooting with the Zone System. Spot ...


1

This answer will be for the wrong camera, but it might just help you find the information you are looking for. As @ElendilTheTall suggested this is a very subjective question, so I will just attempt to shed some light on how the system works. With the right info anyone with any camera can go out and check it out on their own. According to my 5D MkII manual: ...



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