High Falls, Pigeon River

by Jakub

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There is software that does what you are looking for. Fundamentally, averaging is the most effective way to reduce noise and increase signal strength. When you have no other algorithmic capability to identify and reject outliers, a median is usually the best approach. However, median will usually not give you the best SNR in the end, as it is simply ...


Personally, I use an equatorial tracking mount to get images of the eclipse. This allows me to get much deeper exposures than you may otherwise be able to, and at lower ISO settings. The mount tracks in "lunar time", and thus is fairly accurately tracking the moon (there may be some drift, depending on how accurate polar alignment of the mount is.) Here are ...


The basic answer here is that you don't have the right tool for the job. Your camera has a fixed wide-angle lens. As you can see from What focal length lens do I need for photographing the moon?, even the supermoon is going to be very small in the frame. In fact, I have the Fujifilm X-T10 and the 23mm lens — a very close cousin of the one built into your ...


I shot the above sequence with settings that varied from: f/4 to f/8 1/2s to 1/160s ISO 400-3200 You are right that the moon is moving quick, but unless you are using a very high focal length lens or planning to view/print the image at a very large size, the blurring may be completely acceptable at speeds significantly slower then 1/125s. In the image ...


I used F/4, ISO 1600, and 2 seconds exposure time. The pictures are sharp with my 50 mm lens, but the Moon is small. I took 40 pictures and hope to be able to compile a super resolution image that I could have taken with a 100 mm lens. I then need to deal with the unsharpness that is not yet visible, but will only arise at the super resolution level, ...


This was taken yesterday at 10:44 PM EST from Montreal. What I did is push the shutter-speed until the moon got blurry and then backed up one stop. That was 1/2s. Then I raised the ISO until I got a reasonable exposure while maintaining the maximum F/5.6 stop of the Nikkor AF-S 200-500mm. This gave ISO 1600 which is somewhat noisy on a Nikon D810 but once ...


I bracketed mine between iso 800 - 1600 to be safe. I was using a Canon 650D (crop sensor) with a 55-250mm STM lens on a tripod. My favorite picture ended up being at iso 1600 @ 1/2 second. Since the lens I was using isn't very sharp @ 250mm I figured I could get away with the slow shutter speed. I set my color balance for daylight and cropped in. Going ...


This is my photo. It is one shot on a Canon 550D + Tokina 116II. The shooting parameters are: iso 800 aperture f/2.8 shutter 60 sec Color correction in Photoshop.


According to your EXIF data (shown on the linked page) you had ISO 3200, which may have introduced noise. Your shutter speed was quite fast, only 1/2500 sec. I would suggest to lower the ISO and have a longer exposure time. Here is an online exposure calculator for astro photography for avoiding star trails. This photo SE answer explains the background of ...


When you use long exposure times, you will get some digital noise due to the way the camera works. I am certain that what you see isn't stars. Imagine a grid of photosensitive spots. Each spot gets light as long as you have the shutter open. Some spots register red, some green, som blue. When reading the light value of the spots, the values of the ...

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