I Dare You!

by peter_budo

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One rather obvious way to improve the result is to use a very low magnification or to just take the picture without a telescope. Many deep sky objects can be seen much better at low magnifications. E.g. the whirlpool galaxy has an angular size of 11 by 7 arc minutes, so it's a rather large extended object (given the enormous distance to us). At high ...


If it's any help, I use a Canon EOS 7D DSLR and a Skywatcher Explorer 200P (8" Reflector) telescope on a non-tracking Equatorial Mount and have had some moderate success by limiting the exposure time to no more than 1/10 second (halve this if using a x2 Barlow), use an ISO (approximates to sensor gain) of 1000 to 1600 and take upwards of 100 to 250 separate ...


I just went through this same question and found some answers by testing several wide angle lenses (including the Rokinon). Result was that the new Tamron SP 15-30mm was the best all around choice, albeit at a higher cost. The Rokinon 14mm also faired well. See the details here: http://www.ronbrunsvold.com/tools/wide-angle-lenses-for-night.html


My experience has only been with the FZ150 & FZ200. In both cases, we do not apply any force on the lens whatever it is we wish to add on. In my case, I have used 1.7X & 2.2X as well as macro conversion lenses. For these 2 camera models, Panasonic (and OEM) have an aluminium tube adapter that screws onto the camera body around the original lens. The ...


When it comes to color imaging of the night sky with a monochrome camera, the use of color filters is usually implied. There are two major sets of color filters that are commonly used with monochrome sensors: LRGB and narrow band. LRGB Imaging Standard color imaging, or "broadband" imaging, makes use of LRGB or Luminance + RGB filters. Monochrome sensors ...


If you want to do it the old fashioned way, you take a series of photos of the same thing with each one filtered for a different color. Say one shot filtered for red, one for green, and one for blue. Then you add the color to each gray scale image in post and then combine the three monochromatic images.


There are directions using color-separation at Turning Grayscale to Color in Photoshop and for a manual process using overlays at Colorizing a Grayscale Image. Hopefully, one of those techniques will help. Photoshop for Astronomy: An Introductory Tutorial discusses a number of tools. You might also want to take multiple photos at differing exposures and ...


Try create a new layer and change the blending mode to multiply, then paint the colours you want on that layer. Notice it won't colour the black areas.

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