by Rodrigo

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If you think about a bigger change in depth of field, like f1.4 to f11, it is a bit more obvious: the autofocus has more 'probably sharp' points to pin down, therefore he needs to recalculate. If you have a smaller change in f-stop, the same happens, but on a much smaller basis and is barely noticeable.


does the focus change from one f-stop to the next Depth of field changes when you change the aperture, so the camera is probably adjusting to ensure that the object at the selected AF point remains in focus. This is particularly important when you increase the aperture (i.e. move to a lower f-number), giving you a narrower depth of field. AF systems ...


Looking at your samples, the answer seems clear to me: that's not grainy, that is, actually, out of focus. Here's a 1:1 crop of your wide-open image: It seems pretty apparent that the wooden sign is sharp but the dog isn't, and the appearance of the blur looks completely in line with what one would expect from out-of-focus blur, not noise or grain. ...


Ok, I'm feeling kind of stupid right now. So what had happened was I was importing photos from a range of dates, and some of them were back quite a ways, so it arranged the Event down the page, and since I wasn't looking for photos from the oldest day, I didn't recognize the Event. But what also threw me off was that it created a blank "Untitled 1" Event ...


@Scott Reed I have the same lens in Nikon F100. In my camera I have always set aperture to f22 in order to be able to set the aperture from the camera. Try to lock the lens in f22. Which exactly 50mm lens, do you have? Nikkor 50mm 1.8G or nikkor 50mm 1.8D? I am guessing that you have 1.8D which came without auto-focus motor. Moreover, neither the lens nor ...


There is a very old and very good rule of thumb called "Sunny Sixteen" that, while not always accurate (and not a great way to determine critical exposure with a digital camera) can help you check the sanity of whatever your camera's meter is telling you. "Sunny Sixteen" basically says that, in bright midday sun (the "sunny" part), in "ordinary ...


Since I doubt you want or can increase the shutter speed, you should get a ND filter. You've already mentioned that you've tried to increase the shutter speed, and you most likely already know about ISO, a neutral density filter would be the way to go for you. A ND filter is basically a gray "lens" that darkens your image. ND filters have various densities, ...


There is a reason it's choosing f/8 aperture: With most lenses the sharpest image is produced at apertures in that range. The only reason to select wider apertures when you don't need the light is to produce a shallower depth of field, in which case you have three options to compensate for the exposure: Increase shutter speed Decrease ISO If you run out ...


different f stops would need to be used No. Focus is, as you say, achieved by moving various of the lens elements around. Aperture changes are achieved by closing the diaphraghm and has nothing to do with focusing. They are two entirely separate concepts. That all said, most if not all mobile phone cameras don't have a diaphragm, so they can't change ...


Aperture stays the same and depth of field too, just imagine if you are using film camera and place mask in front of the film (that way you change "sensor" size) the ISO remains the same and exposure remains the same regardless of "sensor" size, it is only controlled by curtains and lens aperture, the crop factor only useful when connected to the resolution ...

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