It's a bird

by Vian Esterhuizen

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-2

Fixed maximum aperture lenses don't really have any advantage, and they never did. If you want an aperture that you can maintain throughout the entire zoom range you can just select one that is available at all zoom settings. An f/3.5-f/5.6 lens will stay at 5.6 no matter how much you zoom. Fixed maximum aperture basically come in two variations; High ...


3

This is a very common issue with the 5D series. You have accidentally locked the rear control-dial. The power-switch next to it has actually 3 positions. When lined up with On, the camera is on but the rear control-dial is disabled. When lined up with the white line which goes to that dial, the camera is on and the dial is enabled.


11

It's most likely a commercial decision based upon cost and performance. Let's take your prime at f/1.2 example. Canon makes a number of 50mm lenses. The EF 50mm f/1.8 II is about $100. It has 6 elements in 5 groups, 5 aperture blades and a plastic barrel. It takes a 52mm filter and weighs 130g. The EF 50mm f/1.4 USM is about $350. It has 7 elements in 6 ...


0

I know what you mean when you say the pictures are not as sharp as they should be. Ever since I bought the Nikon D7000 I had the same problem and was disappointed too. The funny thing is, that salesmen always try to sell you a very sharp expensive lens (obviously), but I had never heard anyone say that in most cases the sharpness can be improved tremendously ...


-3

You must set up in manual, then switch back to aperture mode to change the aperture. When you go back into manual the aperture adjustments will show up. You can not do it in manual mode and must go back and forth.


0

If you're using a non-CPU/non-AF lens on a D80, you can only use M mode, not A. You control the aperture setting with the ring on the lens. I think the camera should display "F--" as the aperture setting (but I could be wrong--I'm a Canon shooter). Your camera also won't accurately meter--you'll have to judge exposure with the histogram after taking the ...


0

Assuming both the lenses cast light circles at least large enough to cover the entire sensor, an f/1.4 lens will always be faster than an f/1.7 lens by almost one half stop. The aperture size has nothing to do with the size of the image circle a lens casts. The elements of a lens behind the aperture diaphragm and how much they bend the light allowed through ...


1

There are three competing, inescapable, factors causing blur: Depth of field: a lens produces a sharp image of objects only at a specific distance, and blurs those closer or farther. The narrower the lens aperture or opening (the higher f-number), the more the lens behaves like a pinhole and the greater the depth of field. However, to allow narrow ...


4

When you "stop" down, you're physically blocking (or stopping) light from the edges of the lens from hitting the image. This light often focuses at a slightly different distance to light that passes right through the centre of the lens which causes a loss of sharpness known as spherical aberration. There are other aberrations which affect sharpness, these ...



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