Lightnings taking a ride

by ceinmart

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Pentax 50mm has the nicest bokeh and sharpness I've ever see... I think you've answered your question. Stick with image quality over anything else. You can always make up for other deficiencies with skill and technique. Shoot for best image quality.


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If you are going to make mostly portraits, a 50mm prime would fit you much better. Not only gives you a lower aperture, but the image quality is better with primes. Don't worry about the "ideal" 70-90mm range, 50mm is a classic focal length for portraits.


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Use 50mm if you want to separate the person from the bacground, you can always crop the image to simulate the 70mm (at 8Mpix) or 90mm (at 5Mpix). To include enviroment use 17-50/2.8 at smaller focus distances. And take telezoom for larger distances. You may found usefull to experiment with http://camerasim.com/apps/camera-simulator/


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(I am teasing you:) You seem to be seeking a hard rule that you can apply without thinking, but there are no hard rules, certainly no One rule, and thinking is always helpful. :) It always depends, on the situation, and on what result you want. 70-90 mm is "ideal", if assuming a cropped APS sensor, and assuming a normal subject distance of at least 6 to ...


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It also depends on how much background do you want to keep. With the Pentax prime or Tamron zoom lens, you'll get a better background separation, in addition to having more backdrop behind your subject. This will arguably be nicer as the bokeh effect will be more apparent (more concentric circles, soft focus etc.). On the other hand, if you want to get ...


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I think that taking a head and shoulders picture with a 50mm lens means that you have to get too close for your subject's comfort and in addition risk some distortion. I've always used 90mm prime lenses with as fast an apeture as my bank balance will permit. As usual with photography, it's a trade off - it's a great lens but I have to move around a good ...


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Wikipedia has all of the DoF formulae you probably ever need. You may now begin to see why optics is a field of physics unto itself. You aren't going to be able to learn these equations and do them in your head to map an ƒ number to a depth of field in, say, feet. This is why there are so many DoF calculators floating around. I wrote one of many.


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If you want to change the aperture number do this. Choose the Manual mode and push and hold the 4 button [ the button <4> +/- near the info button ] and keeping this down turn the number <27> turning wheel and see the results. This works perfectly in Live but and in viwfinder.



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