Westminster fountain at sunset

by Jorge Córdoba

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12

The practical answer to your question is to find some female friend to photograph in that same location first, perhaps reading some tips online about photographing models. Then you can see what works with lights, what poses look good, and practice asking for poses. Also when you go out with the "real" model it would probably be good to take the same female ...


12

Portfolio. Build it. Make it better. Repeat. Don't worry about all this other stuff you mentioned. Seriously, no one will take a second look past your portfolio if it isn't excellent. Specifically you asked "how does one start out to become a landscape photographer". The basics are not websites, social media, marketing, etc. The basics are great photos ...


9

It's important to remember that you are not selling printing services - people aren't paying for the prints, you are selling images created by your vision, your talent and your expertise, not a piece of framed paper - so there should be no relation between the cost of printing and framing and the price of the pictures (except that the price must be higher ...


7

I own that lens. It is, indeed, a solid performer at that range for the money it commands. You'll find a lot of grey area when evaluating whether it's the right next lens for you, but I'd certainly encourage you to stay away from the 75-300; it's just not a good performer when stacked up against low/mid-range lenses like the 55-250 or 70-300. You may find ...


7

One of the best things you could do is look at lots of fashion photos. Figure out what they're doing with framing and composition, what they're using to light the scene, be it flashes, soft boxes, natural light, look at how they've processed the image. The colours, the retouching etc. I know that this form of learning works for me. Inspired and learnt from ...


6

You'll need to price your photos at some multiple of their manufacturing costs. It might feel odd to charge $200 if something costs $50 to make but it isn't. When you treat your photography like a business you soon realize that you have many other legitimate business expenses. Not even counting expenses like a new camera and lens (which you may have bought ...


6

agreed. The first step is to be able to make consistently great photos, and then display them where potential buyers can see them. but there's no shortcut to the technical quality and vision within the images. My second thought on this is simple: don't. Just enjoy taking photos. Why? Because there are a zillion other people trying to get into the same ...


5

Scratches in general have very little effect on image quality. You may have zones of slightly lower contrast due to the scratches and these areas may be slightly more prone to flare since its the lens coating which is most damaged. The effect of scratches is inversely proportional to focus distance. The farther you focus, the more out of focus the ...


4

While the main page isn't a good place for critique since it's a Q/A site, the chat is reasonably active and is a great place for asking for critiques and more discussion oriented questions that don't fit on the main site.


4

In general, I think they are called Flickr.com, 500px.com, deviantART.com, etc.


3

If you are in Flickr I recommend you Critique2 About the group: Critique 2 is all about member participation. Think of this group as a workshop, where you can display your work to other photographers of all levels of experience and skill, for discussion of its strengths and weaknesses, suggestions for improvement and hints for overcoming shortcomings. ...


3

Either jump in chat here or go to a photo sharing site such as one of the ones that jrista mentioned. There are very, very many options out there. Photo sharing sites like flickr and 500px probably are the easiest kind of thing if you are looking to find photographers whose style you like.


3

Another option might be to use any camera you want, take numerous pictures of the room, and finally stitch them together with a panorama stitching tool such as the open source (free) Hugin. That way you don't need a super wide angle lens! I do this all the time. I'll try to find a good example and post it up tonight when I get home. Update Here is an ...


3

I've read that for fashion photography, natural light is important to make bright, colorful and clear pictures. You shoudn't focus too much on making the model do various poses, but rather on getting a shot from a great angle. Note that in contrast to portrait photography, fashion photography tends to require photos of the entire model, rather than just the ...


3

You may improve the lens performance by taking a black sharpie and filling in the scratches. This will help reduce glare from the scratches, and it won't noticeably change the effective f-stop of the lens.


3

Despite being as cheap at it is and variable aperture, the Canon 70-300mm F/4-5.6 IS USM is a pretty good lens between 70 and 200mm. It is quite sharp at those focal-lengths. It shows virtually no vignetting and very little distortion. From 250 to 300mm it is rather soft and no amount of stopping down will help you unfortunately. Since you intend to shoot ...


3

Your "business/entrepreneurial point of view" is the right place to focus. Being a professional is about marketing and sales, and customer service. As others have said, taking "great photos" is not enough. Its necessary, but not sufficient. Lots of folks can take great photos. To be a business, you need to find clients who will pay for your photos, or pay ...


2

Your baseline should be whatever it costs you to print, mat and frame the photograph. That's a starting/break-even point. Then double it if you're feeling generous, triple it if you're not. As far as the donation, I'd do 30% of the profit, but I have no idea what you'd do. Whatever the percentage, make sure you prominently display the fact that 'A ...


2

I used to own the non-IS version of this lens, got it as part of a kit with the EOS 350D! Although it did me fine in the early days of getting into DSLR photography, it never really lived up to my expectations as regards to IQ. I figured maybe it was down to the older technology of the 350D, with it's 8mp sensor and not very good AF system, but when I ...


2

I'm an estate agent and use a Nikon P500 bridge camera. It has a 22.5mm lens and I love it as I can add daylight etc. It cost me around £300 and it has been replaced by the P510 (not the same wide angle lens) but it's not been out for too long so you should be able to get a second hand one very cheaply.


2

I'm sorry to say but I think that with the budget constraint given you won't be able to find a camera that provides what you want. To get those 'estate agent' shots that make a gloomy flat look like as spacious as a well lit warehouse you really neeed a specialised wide angle set up. I've only seen it done well with full frame DSLRs and very wide lenses. ...


2

You can buy after market "wide angle adapters" which fit on the filter threads of many cameras. Some camera manufacturers offer these for their own cameras. While the quality is seldom stunningly good, one of these may very well be good enough for your purpose. Here's a few examples: Examples of claimed high quality versions for a range of camera brands ...


2

24mm is ultra-wide but you are right, there are now a few cameras with 22.xmm lens which is slightly wider. You also want to use an add-on flash, so what you are looking for is a ultra-wide-angle camera with a hot-shoe. As you can see from the search link, there are 12 such models, you will have to see which one fits your budget. The Fuji X-S1 is probably ...


2

Flickr is a pretty good place to start. You can browse peoples photostreams and find people to follow via. the Explore homepage to start, then start adding your favourite photographers as contacts. You then see them on your own home screen next time you log in.


2

I use M42 and pentak K lenses on my Canon 40D with precision matte focus screen and it works really well with the EMF programmable adaptor chips (some of them even allow you to use tracking AF modes), but if I had to get a camera specifically for that purpose I'd get pentax, where of course K5 with a would be a better but more expensive choice, but K10D is a ...


2

To add to the other more technical points, I'd suggest changing the composition slightly. At the moment you have a lot of 'just' water in the bottom right. Moving the fountain down and right in the image would show more of the river (lake?) disappearing into the distance. As a general rule of thumb, putting the main subject of an image in the centre of the ...


2

Wait until the light is more favorable. This would probably be a time when the sky is not overcast and the sun is behind you, such as in the hour after sunrise or the hour before sunset. With proper exposure, this will allow the sky to appear blue instead of white.


2

"What to improve" is a very subjective question. with that in mind: one of my main dislikes about this exposure is the "burned" sky due to the long exposure. As your sky is somewhat similar in color to the fountain water, it reduces the emphasis from it. As you are probably using a tripod, I would attempt to capture a HDR (high dynamic range) image to get ...


1

Google+ seems to be the most active social network for photographers to hang out with each other. It treats the photos pretty well visually, but the communities are also quite good for building discussion around topics rather than just dropping images on each other. The community I founded, Bird Photography ...


1

Last year, I was invited to shoot a wedding. It was my first time as principle photographer. Despite having some experience, I felt out of my depth. My approach was: Read I bought a couple of good books. (I really like a lot of the stuff from Amherst Media) Look at other contemporary work. I bought a few wedding magazines - there are plenty of ...



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