Apples

Apples

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11

Indeed, some cameras do need the leader. Usually they are manually loaded and winded - they use take-up spools with a slot for the leader. Advancing the film is performed by turning the take-up spool, and sprockets alone would not provide grip secure enough. For example, Bronica 135N/135W, Nikkormat EL-W. When the film has been fully rewound into cassette, ...


9

Yes, if the room is truly dark and you work quickly, you'll be fine. But the room has to be totally dark. If you have a bathroom or walk-in closet with no windows, and you make sure no light is coming in through under the door, you shoudl be fine. Wait a few minutes in the dark for your eyes to adjust, to make sure you can't see any light around the ...


7

In short, yes, it is actually different, but only because the angle of view is by definition measured to the edge of your view — which is the edge of the sensor, which is (again by definition) different on APS-C. Your statement I think that the angle of view, depth of field, and compression are the same as on an FX/Full frame but we are seeing only ...


6

Any decent camera with some degree of macro capabilities will be a feasible slide/negative scanner, but, tthere are some other factors that incide a lot in the results. The first is an adequate backlighting device. Can be as complicated or as simple as you wish, as long as it allows you to get good exposure. I have tried different combinations of flash and ...


5

I think the trick is less wasted film. If you think about the design of most leaders, the leader from one cut of film is also the leader for the next. Since in many (most?) cases, the leader is going to be exposed to light, it is going to be wasted film anyway. By reducing the amount of waste, costs of making the same number of useable frames is reduced.


5

From memory, the takeup spool in my Nikon FM had a notch that didn't go the width of the film, so yes you had to have the leader cut to be able to insert it. As long as you have the film lined up properly, it would seem easier to insert a smaller width of leader into a spool than get the whole width in anyway. The reverse is true when developing. I always ...


3

The answer is that Lomo has a manufacturing glitch and shipped some incompatible back/body combinations. I spoke to their support line, and they explained that there was a manufacturing error with some units such that the back and the camera aren't compatible. They've send me an RMA to replace one or the other (I'm momentarily a bit confused about which), ...


3

All you need is a slide duplicator attachment and a decent macro lens (the duplicators that include lenses are generally only good for 1:1 reproduction and very slight enlargements, and so are not really suitable for crop-sensor cameras). The Bower Digital Slide Duplicator is the most versatile I've seen in terms of adjustability, but it's not the only game ...


2

I don't know about an iPhone, but it's certainly possible with a DSLR. I have done this myself and the results are quite good. It works best for B&W negatives, as you don't have to worry about the white balance.


2

This is explained here but unless you really insist on building your own, I suggest you buy a slide-scanning attachment which is quite cheap. In either case you need a close-focusing lens. If you have a macro lens, then use it. Otherwise you will have to get macro focusing using another macro technique such as extension tubes. You will also need an even ...


1

Colour filter let's through the wavelength of the same colour that of the filter, and blocks other wavelengths. If, for example, you have a red filter in front of a lens, then a red rose will show up bright in the photo. In case of black and white film, the red filter passes the light from the rose through onto the film, which is then exposed well for the ...


1

I'll suggest, Check if you have set the N/P switch and using the mask correctly. N stands for normal and P stands for panoramic, which is essentially wider than the normal films. You will have spaces between films if you use P switch with normal mask. The 35mm back won't stop you advancing the film, and it doesn't have a number for each shoot on the ...



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