Forgotten in its old age

by Aditya

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I think you are putting too much emphasis on the "digital" part of the DG designation. It seems to be more to differentiate them from "digital" lenses that are APS-C only. Sigma calls their current APS-C only lenses "DC". When digital SLRs first began to gain a foothold in the market, they almost all had sensors that were APS-C or similar sized. So new ...


Yes, lenses designed for digital sensors have several differences from their older film based camera lens counterparts. One of the primary differences is that digital sensors are more reflective than film, so anti-reflective coatings are applied to the rear element of a digital lens. This helps prevent reflections off the sensor that could result in image ...


There is one significant difference between film and digital sensor for lens optics - digital sensors have a bit of glass and some filters in front of them. The blog has a pretty extensive series of posts on the effect of the sensor stack (short version, there is a very real effect for large aperture lenses) - so it is quite possible that the ...


Unfortunately this is an opinion and even then only an estimate can be made because only you know how much force was exerted on the film. It is always worth it to me to try and develop a roll of film that could potentially come out poorly. If I find a roll in a vintage camera, to me the small cost of development greatly exceeds the potential benefits. ...


The OP commented elsewhere "I've seen people say it's actually ISO 800 Film intended to be pushed, and their data sheet says something about it being rated ISO 1000" and the data sheet is by far your best source of information. DELTA 3200 Professional has an ISO speed rating of ISO 1000/31ยบ (1000ASA, 31DIN) to daylight. So yes, it is a fast film ...


Some 'film' lenses designed for 35mm rangefinder cameras have a rear element which lies quite close to the plane of the film or sensor (mostly wide-angle lenses). These work fine for film, but when used on a digital camera cause quite noticeable colour shifts to the left and right of the frame. This is due to the extreme angle of the light from the rear ...


Shorter version: Expose it as 3200 and shoot normally. Develop according to the instructions and make sure you use the correct development time for 3200. Longer version: Delta 3200 is not an ISO 3200 film, it is more like ISO 1000-1200. If you expose it as 3200 and develop according to the instructions, you are actually push developing it. The film ...


why not simply set it to 3200 and run with it? That's what it's rated at... That said, it's a somewhat flexible film and you may get good results at 1600 as well. There's nothing wrong with doing what the package says you should do. Nor is there anything wrong with experimenting.


I've had a waist level viewfinder attachment for a Nikon, and I've also used medium format gear (like the Yashica) that used them, and I found that I didn't like them on 35mm that much. The 35mm viewing screen feels much smaller than square medium format, making it difficult to use without flipping up the magnifier and holding it up to your eye (which ...


@MirekE has some great advice. I would also add that you can play around with over and under developing easily with your 35mm. Find a scene that shows a wide range of values, ideally a scene where you can set the lens to infinity. The sun should be behind you and over your right or left shoulder. No clouds if possible so the lighting doesn't change suddenly. ...

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