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Or are there splitting adapters for such purpose? I am afraid to connect them wrong and fry the camera? I have T2i Canon cameras without any ports for synch cables. My studio strobes have a 1/4" phone connector.

I already know about the wireless sets, but im interested in the option using cable/ cables

Should I edit , rephrase or re-post this question, since I am not getting a direct answer?

"Name and type of cable to connect 2 studio strobes to 1 camera"

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Are your strobes studio flashes or speedlight type flashes? – Michael Clark Feb 13 '14 at 6:01
Also, what body do you have? Not all bodies have a sync terminal and so you may need to use a hotshoe adapter. – John Cavan Feb 13 '14 at 11:30
im talking about studio flashes; I have an adapter that mounts on the hot-shoe and allows me to use a PC synch cable – angel rojas Feb 13 '14 at 14:18
I have Canons , neither one has a port for a flash synch cable of any kind – angel rojas Feb 13 '14 at 14:19
@angelrojas - Not all studio strobes have a PC port, it may be 3.5mm jack now (my AB800s have 3.5mm). What strobes do you have? Also, please update the question with this info rather than with comments. – John Cavan Feb 13 '14 at 14:45
up vote 2 down vote accepted

The name for the cable you are looking for is a dual flash sync cable or possibly dual ETTL cable. You can also get dual adapters that sit on your hot-shoe and allow you to connect to hot-shoe connectors using normal cords.

The problem is that they're often very short and impractical, I expect that's why everyone else has suggested alternative methods which for a small increase in price over your suggested set-up would have a significant benefit.

Have a look on a popular online auction site and you will find what you are looking for.

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If you get radio triggers (some as cheap as $20 for a pair) you can put one transmitter on your camera and each strobe gets a receiver. The type of cable you will need depends on the model of trigger and strobe as far as which ports they have. The PC Sync connector is/was common, but a lot of things now use 3.5mm (think headphones) connectors. Annoyingly, Canon cameras use 2.5mm (E3, as they refer to it) or their proprietary N3 connectors (neither of which is very commonly used elsewhere). However, if you're using the hot shoe as the triggering point then that isn't necessarily an issue.

Edit: In light of your added information, it sounds like you have Canon cameras and studio strobes that have a PC sync port. A cheap option would be this which will let you trigger two strobes. I have these and the only downsides are that the cables don't attach very securely so you want to tape them and (reportedly) they don't fire 100% of the time (I haven't experienced this, but I'm not the heaviest of users). The transmitter just sits in the hotshoe.

Also, your cable release port (left side, under a rubber cover flap, probably a 2.5mm port) probably works as a flash trigger as well. I don't know if I've seen this documented anywhere, but in setting up a remote camera using pocket wizards I discovered that this will work both ways (I have a 70d).

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If your strobes have optical slave (most do) then you could connect your camera to one strobe and set the second to optical slave which will work fine.

I take a lot of professional pictures and have used 4 or 5 strobes like this with no problems, the difference is I use a radio trigger to fire the first one which limits my sync speed to 250 but that just also ensures that all the flashes will be captured. This is not relevant to you but to be safe I would also use a sync speed of less than 250 if you use optical slave and a cabled approach.

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You simply need a hotshoe adapter, audio cables, and a splitter.

The 1/8" (3.5mm) miniphone and 1/4" (6.5mm) phone plugs and jacks are identical to mono audio connectors. There are only two electrical connections going on with flash sync: ground and the sync signal. You can use stereo cables, as well, but one of the channels won't be used.

Get a hotshoe to 1/8" adapter (you can get PC as well, but in this case, why bother going there if you don't need to? minijacks/plugs are far more robust, and more easily and cheaply sourced than PC connectors), for your camera hotshoe, a length of 1/8" minijack cable, and a 1/8->1/4" adapter to connect the camera to a 1/4" splitter, and then two 1/4" audio cables to connect the splitter to the lights.

Obviously, radio triggers are likely to be more convenient and possibly even lower cost than going wired, but you may still need to get 1/8" or PC -to-1/4" adapters to hook the radio receivers up to your lights.

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