I've got a couple of spots of dust on the sensor of my Canon 20D - a rocket blower isn't shifting them, and I'm ridiculously scared of some of the more direct methods for cleaning sensors -- what methods/systems have you tried, and how successful have they been?
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A rocket blower can be worse than not cleaning at all. it inhales air from your environment - which can be dustier than your sensor. I use Pec Pad (pecpads) and Eclipse cleaning solution, with a sensor swipe. This link has all of these products in the search. It works well to remove spots. A tip - take a picture of a clear blue sky at f/22 to identify all your dust spots. |
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I had a Canon 30D and got a bad dust spot on the sensor ... the only way I was able to get rid of it was to take it to a camera shop and get it cleaned. I was thinking about cleaning the sensor myself, but decided against it. If the camera shop screwed it up, they had the resources & skill to fix it. If I screwed it up, I would probably have to pay a lot more than $60. I would suggest taking it to a good CAMERA shop (not a 1 hour photo printing place that also sells cameras) ... you might pay more, but I'm betting you'll get better quality results. |
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I highly recommend sending it in directly to the manufacturer's repair shop. The sensor in your DSLR is one of the most critical and sensitive parts of the camera, and should not be maintained either by you or an untrained camera shop employee. If it is under warranty, this service may be covered. I've actually tried the Eclipse + pecpad solution, and maybe it's just me but I was not able to obtain a clean enough sensor for my liking, and it seemed that it takes quite a bit of practice before you become good at this skill. Not worth the risk, in my opinion. If you are stuck on location and need to continue taking pictures before you can get the camera repaired, then see if your camera has a "dust reference photo" feature, which requires you to take a picture of a blank sheet of white paper from about a foot away at the highest f-stop your lens will allow. This can then be input into the manufacturer's software (in my case, Nikon CaptureNX/ViewNX) to remove dust spots from any images taken with a dirty sensor. This worked wonders when I was stuck in Thailand with a dirty sensor and no hope of repair before returning to the U.S. |
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I think the definitive article on the subject is "Cleaning your Sensor" by Thom Hogan, written by someone reputable with a lot of experience. I would disregard most scary personal anecdotes and product reviews by people who have given this one try, quite possibly misused the product, and then ranted about it. It is safe to clean your sensor yourself with the right products with care. If you are not careful, use the wrong products, or don't follow instructions, it's easy to end up just moving the dust around or picking up oil from surrounding areas and spreading it across the surface and making things worse (and then claiming that the products don't work!) There are three main contaminants that you have to deal with:
Your camera's built-in sensor cleaning function, along with a rocket blower, will remove most light dust. Most cameras can be set so the cleaning function is run whenever the camera is powered on or off. For heavier dust you have two options: - dry brush, and wet wipes/swabs dry brush this method uses a statically charged, dry brush (such as the Arctic Butterfly) to attract the dust. A light brushing against the filter surface may be required to dislodge the dust. You must be very careful not to touch the bristles of the brush against any surface other than the IR filter itself, or you may pick up oil or other contaminants and spread them onto your sensor. The advantage of a dry brush is that it is reusable and effective on most light dust. If properly used it will not leave any residue on the surface. After using the dry brush, use the camera's in-built cleaning function a few times to pick up any dust that was loosened but not removed off the surface. wet wipes/swabs For oil, or really stubborn dust, the final course of action is to use wet wipes, such as "Sensor Swabs". Again, you must take care not to touch these against any surface other than the IR filter to avoid picking up dirt, dust or oil. You need to buy a swab that is the right size for your sensor, and swipe once or twice across the surface, then do not reuse. These swabs require a solution - make sure to use whatever solution is recommended (e.g. Eclipse) and do not use too much solution to avoid leaving residue on the filter surface. These swabs tend to be pricey - if you are good and efficient at cleaning, they are worth it -otherwise you may use up 4-6 of these getting your sensor free of dust. So depending on your confidence and steady hands, you may want to consider having the sensor professionally cleaned if a rocket blower or dry brush cannot dislodge the dust. There are also sensor "pen" products. I have not used them. Be careful not to use a "lens pen", PEC*PADs, or any other device that is made to clean lenses or LCDs. Make sure the product is designed specifically for sensors. |
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A blower bulb I purchased once contained release agent used during manufacturing process. When I attempted to clean my sensor, the bulb ejected powder onto the sensor. Least recommended method of cleaning for me. I had to use a wet cleaning method using swabs specially designed to fit my 1.6 crop sensor. Swabs and a wet solution are relatively expensive and the swab is one time use. After a few packages of swabs were used, the VisibleDust Arctic Butterfly was suggested to me. The Arctic Butterfly is a powered nylon brush that uses a static charge in nylon bristles to grab on to and pull dust up off the sensor. It works extremely well without using liquid, and it's reusable. In fact, I've only used one swab in the two years since I obtained the Visible Dust system. A much fancier version of the butterfly: |
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I concur ... go with a camera shop. Additionally, I would recommend going with a manufacturer authorized repair location. Theoretcially they have more training. |
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Just take it to a local camera shop / repair man. I've done it once and the camera came back pristine. I paid £35 (~$55) in the UK |
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While I'm downloading memory cards I give the sensor a brush with an Arctic Butterfly this seems to get the worst off , however when it has been really bad I've used a LensPen SensorKlear (not the same as a lenspen!!!) but I have thrown those out after one use as I'm not too convinced by their self cleaning abilities. To test the sensor I've always just staken a shot of a plain white wall af the smallest aperture available and reviewed it zoomed in fully on the camera screen, scrolling to make sure the whole screen is covered. |
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I bought an Olympus, I simply turn it on and let it clean the sensor - so far very sucessfull. |
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As you are concerned, you should send the camera to a reputable servicer and have them handle the cleaning. Personally, Ive used the following:
I don't use blowers, as it doesn't offer any control of where the dust goes. Read the various guides, practice on a glass surface, and account for the fact that the mirror box chamber is pretty small. :) Some caveats for whether you use the brush or the pec pads:
Periodically checking the results via an OOF shot will help to determine if you are getting the sensor clean. But yeah, if you have reservations, send the camera off to a service place. |
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Once, while travelling, I ended up with a huge dust spot clearly visible at f5.6 I didn't take my rocket-like blower on that trip. So .... I used the microfibre lens cleaning cloth on the sensor :D It got rid of the big spot and replaced with with many tiny spots of dust. The tiny spots weren't visible till f11 or so, so it was okay for the meantime. Upon returning to work I gave it to my work buddy that had a microscope and nitrogen tank. He brought it back clean. Sadly, he's since quit. So, in the future i'll just take it into canon if too many spots appear. |
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